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#1 snaylor111

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 07:57 AM

Hello i'm new here just thought should let use know that before i write some problems and so on.

 

Ok - we bought our nearly 2 years it's a good little car until recently so far it's 130,000 miles on the clock. just had to change break bads as its went to metal to metal (grinding) and also the disc as that had cracked in few places.

 

heater blower - heating system works fine no 1,2, sometimes 3 works but no 4 will not blow anything out could this just be the resistor?

horrible metal claning noise - recently we keep hearing a clanging noise it's hard to explain it always happens when we start going i'm thinking somethign connected to the exhaust a friend told me it could be the heat shiled coming away. is it safe to take that off?

TBH i have already took the heat shiled off the front of the engine is i did think it was that at first but it's still there.

indicators - indicators work but do not click off automatic - if i buy new indicators would this solve the problem.

slight oil leak - last year on M.O.T advisory that we had an oil leak

handbreak - Handbreak became slack thinking it may have stretched but this is resolved as i have tighten it.

Power steering - the power steering is on and off all the time anyone know what could be the problem here - We've never had to top up power steering fluid either

Exhaust - yesturday i noticed the exhaust mving slightly when touch it but that cud be just a rubber thing.

My question is my car in due for M.O,T next march do use guys think i should just fix the car (Which i don't mind) or sell it or scrap it?

 

Thanks,

 

Sean



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#2 Adam Barnett

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 08:43 PM

The rattle sounds like it could potentially be the heat shield- this runs all the way under the car so could just be touching the exhaust when it gets hot- a small tack weld should sort that out.

 

Indicators- i believe if you were to simply buy a new stalk this could be resolved

 

Exhaust- sounds as if you have got a broken bracket which causes a wobble

 

Sorry i don't know any other answers :)



#3 Lenny

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:12 PM

I have answers but I'll bookmark this section and respond before 10am tomorrow pal I'm wrecked lol

Has the timing belt been done yet?
If not then Id scrap it and buy a mk2 because if doing timing belt on top of fixing all of the above you would be investing more than the market value of the car to be honest.

#4 snaylor111

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:24 PM

Adam - it's deffo the heat shield adam i slid under the car and it's moving its rusted were the screws pin it and also the screws are coming away as well and they are full of rust and priced the stalk which i was planning on buying quite cheap as well all rubbers are still on the exhaust which looks like it's suppose to wiggle a little just havent noticed before :)

 

lenny - i don't think the timing belt has been done. theres nothing wrong with the timing belt :)

 

Thank use for the replys :)



#5 L666JER

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:38 PM

 

 

lenny - i don't think the timing belt has been done. theres nothing wrong with the timing belt :)

 

 

 

If the timing belt has done 130,000 miles it should be done, regardless of appearance.

Don't wait for it to snap, because if it does that's the engine gone.



#6 Lenny

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 07:17 AM

 
If the timing belt has done 130,000 miles it should be done, regardless of appearance.
Don't wait for it to snap, because if it does that's the engine gone.

+1
Even if a car hasn't done over 100,000
If a car is over 10 years old it should have the timing belt replaced either way,
If its been done you would see a marking on the inside of the bonnet or can cover somting like "TB102k"
Meaning the timing belt was done at 102000

It is due every 100,000
Shop around for price on fitting, I recommend purchasing genuine belts and water pump from ford but overall the job including labour?
Parts will be can belt, auxiliary belt 1 & perhaps 2 aswell as a water pump, around 450 pounds labour will range between 300-600 depending on the garage.

To be honest mate and I'm currently in the same situation with my project car,
Without the timing belt done, and it being due,
The car is a ticking time bomb because it can snap at any time rendering the engine useless,
I too need to get the timing belt done on my project car but once done its good for another 100,000 in that respect.

Overall with the other problems on the car your looking around 2,000 to fix her up,
Giving the age and the miles, other problems that could arrise soon are the head gasket, CV joints and shocks,
Just saying you could spend 2k fixing all existing aswell as timing but those other issues can be expected with age.

Changing the power steering fluid will help free up steering a bit,
If you examine the fluid bottle you will see two hoses connected to it.
One hose will be higher than the other in level on the bottle.
The high hose is the fluid return.

To flush the system and refill,
First check the manual for specific power steering fluid grade, generally dextronIII automatic transmission fluid,
Sold in 1ltr bottles in halfords,
Get a 2ltr plastic bottle, and a person to help,
Remove the fluid return hose (high hose) from the power steering resivour,
Insert the hose in to the bottle,

Open the lid on the power steering resivour,
Get the helper to turn the engine on/off in short bursts while turning the steering left-right
This will slowly transfer the fluid through the pump and in to the plastic bottle,

As the power steering resivour drains,
Pour in a small amount of new fluid,
Watch the fluid coming in to the bottle,
When you see clean fluid going in to the bottle
Stop draining,

Fit the hose back to the resivour and top up to the full line marked on the resivour.
Run the engine for 2-3 minutes
Turn the steering full lock rotation left to right once or twice,
Turn off engine,
Check the resivour level again and top up if required.

Take care no to spill the fluid,
Use an old towel in the engine bay to catch potential spills,
Transmission fluid is much like hydraulic fluid as result it is extreemly viscous meaning highly slippy

#7 Lenny

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 07:22 AM

The indicator click off,
That's either your stalk has snapped a piece off itself inside
Or
The piece has snapped off the steering wheel,

The method works by a plastic bump on the steering wheel,
And
A plastic clip on the indicator stalk,

When you indicate say left,
Then turn right,
The bump on the steering wheel, hits the clip on the stalk switching off the indicator,
Car enthusiasts who fit rally style or aftermarket steering wheels lose this feature when changing the wheel,
They commonly build a bubble of glue on the aftermarket wheel to do the same job.

#8 Lenny

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 07:26 AM

Handbrake,
Take care not to tighten your handbrake too much,
Over tightening of the handbrake can cause the brake shoes to make contact when the handbrake is off and driving,
The shoes will get red hot on a long journey,
Then when parked the hand brake on applies pressure,
The hit shoes can weld themselves to the brakes resulting in a solid rear axle,
Happened my missus first car,
For peace of mind Id have the hand brake tension checked by a mechanic just to be sure mate

#9 Lenny

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 07:29 AM

Finally in regards to the oil leak,
It could be just a copper washer needing replaced on the sump plug,
They should be replaced on every oil change perhaps yours wasn't as result they tend to drip leak,
Are you losing much oil on a 2 month period ?

#10 snaylor111

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 08:21 AM

Thank you very much for your comments and help, i will look to see the nut for the oil leak and regards to how much oil theres quite a bit on the road, regards to the handbreak i think the back break pads have gone so with all the things wrong with it i think i just may scrap it.

 

Thanks again



#11 Lenny

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 09:21 AM

Thank you very much for your comments and help, i will look to see the nut for the oil leak and regards to how much oil theres quite a bit on the road, regards to the handbreak i think the back break pads have gone so with all the things wrong with it i think i just may scrap it.
 
Thanks again


The back pads will wear when braking but also if the handbrake was too tight,
The pads would have continued to make contact when handbrake off,
This would wear the pads excessively,

If buying a mk2 focus,
We can advise you on what to look out for,

If selling the mk1
Noting to stop you from getting a marker and writing "TB98k" on the can cover or inside the bonnet may help sale ;)

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