Focus Cmax 2.0 Tdci Clutch
Posted 09 November 2013 - 09:17 AM
My daughters clutch is slipping and stinks ,, do I need to change the flywheel as well as the clutch ? The car is on a 04 , it has a dw10 engine fitted with a 6 speed box , cheers paul
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Posted 09 November 2013 - 01:14 PM
It is often recommended that you replace the 2 parts of the clutch, the DMF (dual mass flywheel) and the CSC (concentric stave cylinder) all at once,/ at the same time, if you are replacing the clutch
Also - find out if there is a reason the clutch has failed, like she "slips" the clutch a lot, especially on hills/ hill starts or "rides" the clutch padal (drives around with her foot on the clutch pedal), or if it is just normal age/ wear and tear
Posted 09 November 2013 - 01:31 PM
Posted 09 November 2013 - 06:00 PM
You are doing it yourself? - a modern car tends to be a lot more difficult than older cars were with having to bleed the hydralics etc (if you are changing the CSC)- ive not done a Focus, best to speak to someone who has
Posted 11 November 2013 - 11:19 AM
To be honest, your probably better letting a garage deal with this, they are slightly better prepared for these things and it will save you a ton of anger and frustration in the long run!
Posted 11 November 2013 - 07:17 PM
Posted 11 November 2013 - 10:47 PM
I take my hat off to you Paul, the last guy I knew who tried to do this was an indie in a garage and he said that he struggled, and that was with all the tools and the extra hands of labour! he went to Ford for advice and it took him longer than it took you! so apologies, I wasnt trying to show a lack of faith, just that from past experiences if the garage struggled, I wouldn't want to give the illusion that it was easier to and/or manageable at home with this knowledge in hand
I have to say though that was very good going if you managed to do it in that time frame and without all the resources a garage may have. did you run into any complications at all or did you find it rather straight forward?
Posted 12 November 2013 - 07:51 AM
Posted 12 November 2013 - 10:18 AM
Sounds like you have enough to rival an indie garage there Paul
With regards the window, do both switches fail to drop the window/s? it could be that the switch just needs replacing? although its clicking it might not be engaging. The worst culprit for this is the boot switch. You can feel the click go, but it doesnt engage the microswitch properly and so doesnt pop the boot, it wouldnt surprise me if it uses the same microswitch on the window switches.
With regards the EGR, yes, I have fitted an EGR blanking plate to mine, although mine is a 1.6. Cleaning the EGR wont do any harm, its handy to clean it and then blank it off I suppose, if you get an interfering garage who decide it shouldnt be there and remove it, at least you have a clean EGR to use in the interim.
From memory though, the EGR I believe is just below the fuel filter at the top right hand side of the engine as you look into the bay.
To start with, you need to remove the wiper blades (http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27d77fd713) and then remove the scuttle panel by releasing the Torx screws and the clips. I would suggest for further advice cross reference the below with Lenny's guide (http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/42915-guide-fitting-egr-blanking-plate-16tdci-engine/) so that it all makes sense
Once you have removed the scuttle panel, About 5 inches underneath the fuel filter is where you will find two bolts, they are tricky to find, but when you do find them you will be best off if you have a flexible extension. I believe I did it with a static extended socket which took a while (I couldnt remove the fuel filter for one reason or another) but if you have a flexible socket extension this would be better still. You just release the two bolts a good fair way (leave them in by a few threads though so you dont lose them!)
Then, behind the engine block if you follow the EGR pipe towards the cooler, (about 3-4 inches from the left hand side of the engine block if memory serves correctly) there is another bracket that locks it in place. You need to unscrew this a fair way also to allow more flexibility in the EGR pipe.
When you have done this, you then go back to the EGR valve at the top right of the engine, pull it back (you should find that you have more than enough room now to move it back - and it took me about half an hour to work this trick out!!) Then you just slide the EGR blank onto the top of the screws (they normally mark it on the plate as to which side is engine and EGR, I think its point end points up though), tighten the bolts a bit with the EGR (not fully, maybe 3/4. Then go back to the EGR bracket at the engine LHS, tighten that all the way, and then return to tighten the EGR completely.
It took me hours to do it. But then again, I was doing it in mid 20 degrees with scorching sun, dehydrated and suffering heatstroke so it took a lot to remember what I was doing let alone troubleshooting. To be fair though, I think if I hadnt been in that circumstance, I probably could have done it in under half that time. For a fella who rivals the indies though, I expect it will be a 15 minute fix for you
Posted 15 November 2013 - 01:26 AM
The main reason it is recommended to change the DMF, 2 parts of the clutch and CSC is because of the cost (in most peoples cases) and hassle of the labor involved, in theory it should be a long time before it needs doing again - you probably could have used your old DMF again by the sounds of it (in my opinion) - the old DMF should be worth something and may be worth selling on - tip - keep it dry so it does not rust
The EGR system contaminates the entire inlet from the EGR valve right into the inlet valves - its worth taking the inlet manifold off and "de coking" (i used a powerful jet wash) it and giving the inlet ports a wipe too - a solid stainless steel plate is best, ones with holes defeat the purpose,(and do not "fix" faulty/ leaking EGR valves) aluminium can melt, mild steel rusts
the crancase oil breather can contaminate the inlet too, it enters the induction system in front of the turbo compressor, its not a big problem apart from the oil melts/ softens the rubber boost hoses, weakening them over time, the oil droplets condense on the inside of the intercooler, reducing its efficiency a bit, and the oil mixes with the carbon from the EGR, forming an oily goo over time - it may be worth checking/ cleaning out the intercooler on an older/ higher milage vehicle - and even fitting a cranckase breather catchtank
Posted 15 November 2013 - 02:12 AM
always wise to change the DMF, clutches should last a min of 80k miles in normal circumstances, often far more, you'd be lucky to get a DMF to last 2 clutches..i know they cost a few quid, but unless your looking to offload the car, worth doing.
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