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Stephen Leak

New Immobiliser Chip Programming Problem

14 posts in this topic

I'm trying to code a new remote key's immobiliser chip into my car's ECU. I'm following the instructions in the handbook. It's not working.

Do I just keep trying, until I get the timings exactly right?

Or, is the new chip the wrong type? My existing blue coded key has a carbon ID4D chip. The new key has an AB suffix and a glass chip, which should be an ID4C chip.

Do I need to get an AC or AD key with a glass ID4D chip?

However, I have seen an AA key, which should have an ID4C chip, and an AC key, which should have an ID4D chip, in use on the same car.

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Which method are you using?

Should be first key in and turn to II and back, second key likrwise then new key to II and leave until the immobiliser light goes out.

Sent using Ford OC mobile app

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That's it.

The handbook doesn't mention what the warning light should or shouldn't be doing.

I've been waiting for the warning light to go out with each programmed key, as this should indicate that the ECU has recognised the chip as a programmed one.

I've removed the new key, as it says in the handbook. I've also left it at position II: the warning light flashes rapidly, then reverts to flashing slowly.

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Start with the two programmed keys in turn.

Turn the ignition to RUN but do not start the engine. After the security light on the dash goes out, remove the key.

Put the next already programmed key into the ignition and turn the key to RUN, but do not start the engine.

Wait until the light on the dash goes out.

Remove the key.

Take the new key and put it into the ignition.

Turn the key to RUN but do not start the vehicle. Wait until the security light goes out on the dash. Then remove the key.

The new key should now be programmed.

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I think that I've done this, but I will try again in the morning.

When I turn the new key to position II (Run), the warning light doesn't go out, but flashes rapidly, which indicates that the chip is not present or has not been recognised. The light doesn't go out after a while, but changes to flashing slowly.

It either isn't entering learning mode or recognising the new chip.

I do have another glass chip, and it doesn't work with that one either. I don't know what type that chip should be.

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May be the chip type then.

You say the existing ones are carbon ID4D?

Standard horseshoe type Tibbe key?

Sent using Ford OC mobile app

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If the chip is not compatible with your PATS system then a different one would be necessary.

As the fittings to take the chips are different between the glass and carbon ones a new key body may be needed-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FORD-3-BUTTON-FLIP-REMOTE-KEY-FOCUS-MONDEO-TRANSIT-CONNECT-FIESTA-/111185922706?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item19e3328a92

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-Mondeo-Remote-Fob-And-uncut-key-Genuine-Part-Brand-New-/331063962323?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item4d14f32ad3

Carbon ID4D - Glass ID4C-

post-28494-0-49785100-1384562672_thumb.j post-28494-0-51313500-1384562681_thumb.j

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The existing blue coded non-remote key has a carbon ID4D chip.

The new remote key has a glass chip. From the key's part number (AB suffix) it should be an ID4C one.

I am advised that AA and AB remote keys have glass ID4C chips and AC and AD remote keys have glass ID4D chips.

However, I have seen AA and AD remote keys used in the same car (albeit a 2003 Focus).

I have yet to see a remote key with a carbon ID4D chip.

It looks like I may have to find a cheap (used, ideally faulty) AC or AD key for its glass ID4D chip.

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I have 2 keys. Both came with the car.

One is a standard Ford non-remote key, with a blue chip holder containing a carbon ID4D chip.

The other is a Silca (they make key blanks) one with an immobiliser circuit board with a battery inside. If this key is a clone, then that would explain everything.

And there is also another possible nightmare scenario. Evidently, the ability to program extra keys with two others can be disabled using the Ford IDS2000 system.

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If the second key is a clone then that may be the problem.

Clone keys are not recognised as a second key and won't unlock the transponder coding phase.

Your only option then for adding another key would be via an Auto Locksmith.

If you go down that route I'd recommend ringing a couple for quotes first as prices do vary.

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Stephen Leak likes this

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It's looking like that. There's a YouTube video on cloning keys and the key they use is identical to my Silca one.

Any idea of the potential prices? I suppose that I ought to also ring the local Ford dealers, so that the independent's prices seem better.

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Ford would quote a couple of hundred for sure.

Locksmiths will run to about £80 or thereabouts.

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