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L666JER

Rca/line Level Converter

7 posts in this topic

This was going to be my next question on my subwoofer installation thread (unfortunately that was lost in the recent data loss).

The idea is to splice into the rear speaker outputs with one of these converters so that I have an rca out for the sub as my 18 year old head unit doesn't have one :), which I've been told is fine to do.

Question is will I need to use a powered converter or non powered? as I want the rear speakers to still work (see below if you don't know what I mean)

No difference in price, I just want the correct one :)

Powered - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Auto-RCA-Stereo-High-VF-Low-VF-Level-Line-Speaker-Converter-Cable-Z005-UK-/180750216315?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item2a158d6c7b

Non powered - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Speaker-Converter-High-Line-Level/dp/B004UA753G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385666290&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+converter

Any help is appreciated.

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This was going to be my next question on my subwoofer installation thread (unfortunately that was lost in the recent data loss).

The idea is to splice into the rear speaker outputs with one of these converters so that I have an rca out for the sub as my 18 year old head unit doesn't have one :), which I've been told is fine to do.

Question is will I need to use a powered converter or non powered? as I want the rear speakers to still work (see below if you don't know what I mean)

No difference in price, I just want the correct one :)

Powered - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Auto-RCA-Stereo-High-VF-Low-VF-Level-Line-Speaker-Converter-Cable-Z005-UK-/180750216315?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item2a158d6c7b

Non powered - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Speaker-Converter-High-Line-Level/dp/B004UA753G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385666290&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+converter

Any help is appreciated.

You use one of these converters and still have your rear speakers connected

you can fit either the powered one or the non powered one - the powered one may work better and have a better quality, but you have the hassle and power drain of connecting it to the power

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Thanks for the reply.

I'll go for the non powered one then, does seem the easier to install and the sound quality is never going to be amazing with the ford cassette head unit, but I like analogue sound so I'm keeping it. Just want to be able to turn it up without distorting. :) speaker upgrade to come as well

Oh and does it matter where I put the converter. Is it better near the head unit or can I splice into the rear speakers in the boot? - where the sub will be, so a lot easier.

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Thanks for the reply.

I'll go for the non powered one then, does seem the easier to install and the sound quality is never going to be amazing with the ford cassette head unit, but I like analogue sound so I'm keeping it. Just want to be able to turn it up without distorting. :) speaker upgrade to come as well

Oh and does it matter where I put the converter. Is it better near the head unit or can I splice into the rear speakers in the boot? - where the sub will be, so a lot easier.

I would just hook it up to to one of the rear speakers in the boot, that way you are keeping the wiring from the convertor to sub(amp) short

As the sub is "mono" or single-channel, you can just use one converter, taken from one channel(side) or rear speaker, this will simplfy installation and may reduse the chance of crasstalk/ eath loops, hum or buzzing

interference/ hum/ buzzing can be a problem with these converters if you take the power for the sub(amp) straight from the battery (via an inline fuse) you could fit an on/off switch for the amp near the radio, that way if there is any hum from the sub you could switch it off when you are not listening to music, or even when you are listening the the radio/cass quietly (it would also save electrical power)

if hum/ buzz is a problem you could adjust the settings on the sub amp, or fit a (passive) ground loop isolator between the converter and sub-amp

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Oh right thanks much simpler than I thought only needing one channel. Wont be fitting until January. But I like to be prepared :D

Thanks again.

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Oh right thanks much simpler than I thought only needing one channel. Wont be fitting until January. But I like to be prepared :D

Thanks again.

There are only 2 channels on a car system, R + L (right and left) the (eg) left speakers (front and rear) are fed by the same (left) channel

Strictly speaking,(going "buy the book") you should connect both the L+R channels to the sub, but you can "get away" with only connecting one channel/ rear speaker "at a pinch"

You won't hear the difference with 99% of music, some very early Beatles records may sound strange (ie- where the vocals come out of one speaker and the droms, etc out of the other- an early attempt at stereo recorded on 4-track) and possibly some music with sycadelic? bass- panning effects (pink floyd/ some dance music) but that is rare and normally both channels are fed the same bass

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Well I listen to a lot of Barclay James Harvest/Fleetwood Mac/Dire Straits.

As it won't be too much more work than one channel I might as well use both channels.

I've got a rather nice set up in the house so anything in the car will be slightly disappointing. But once I've done the speakers as well it should be good enough - I don't do that many miles anyway.

Thanks for all the advice, I actually understand what I'm doing now :D

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