Jump to content


Photo

Tddi Mondeo 2001


  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 n1xsta

n1xsta

    Settling In Well

  • Budding Enthusiast
  • PipPipPip
  • 53 posts
  • Name: Nick
  • Ford Model: Ford Mondeo MK 3
  • Year: 2001
  • Location: Kent

Posted 04 December 2013 - 12:33 PM

Is it easy to change rear wheel bearing Hub or should I use mechanic

Have something to contribute?

Sign in or register to start a topic...



Sign up to FOC Premium Membership To Remove These Ads

#2 jeebowhite

jeebowhite

    Resident Loon

  • Super Mod
  • 20,985 posts
  • Name: James
  • Ford Model: Sea Grey Mondeo MKIV 1.8TDCi 140ps Zetec
  • Year: 2007
  • Location: Kent
Contributor

Posted 04 December 2013 - 01:02 PM

I presume its a drum brake? if so, it could be a faff, but could be done?



#3 n1xsta

n1xsta

    Settling In Well

  • Budding Enthusiast
  • PipPipPip
  • 53 posts
  • Name: Nick
  • Ford Model: Ford Mondeo MK 3
  • Year: 2001
  • Location: Kent

Posted 04 December 2013 - 01:11 PM

Disc

#4 jeebowhite

jeebowhite

    Resident Loon

  • Super Mod
  • 20,985 posts
  • Name: James
  • Ford Model: Sea Grey Mondeo MKIV 1.8TDCi 140ps Zetec
  • Year: 2007
  • Location: Kent
Contributor

Posted 04 December 2013 - 02:50 PM

In which case, the hardest part is going to be winding back the pistons without damaging the sleeves.

 

If you have the time, you can do it, but it is probably going to take you a couple of hours.



#5 FOCA

FOCA

    Feet on the table

  • True Ford Enthusiast
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,867 posts
  • Name: FOCA
  • Ford Model: Mondeo Mk3 Sleeper 194 flb.p.t.
  • Year: Non
  • Location: Scotland
Contributor

Posted 25 December 2013 - 09:52 PM

All Mondeo mk3s are discs all round, the disc sizes are the same from the TDDI to the ST-220,

 

Its easy if you have the right tools, skills etc, a competent DIY mechanic could tackle it ok, ruster/ siezed nuts/ bolts can be a problem,  

 

if you are not changing the discs/ pads the pistons might not be too much of a problem

 

A Haynes manual is handy for jobs like this     



#6 BigD

BigD

    Too much time on the boards

  • True Ford Enthusiast
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 631 posts
  • Name: -
  • Ford Model: -
  • Year: Non
  • Location: Other / Non-UK

Posted 26 December 2013 - 04:43 PM

You can wind the pistons back in with an angle grinder spanner.  There are two ways I would suggest doing it.  First method is to undo the bleed valve as you wind the piston in, with a length of tube to direct the fluid into a container - you don't need to worry about flipping the seals in the master cylinder that way.  The second method is to remove the flexi hose from the caliper (clamp the hose off first) as it's much easier to wind the piston in by standing the caliper on its end so you can push down as you turn the spanner.

 

Of course, if you aren't changing any of the brakes and you're ultra-careful to not touch the brake pedal while the caliper is off the car, there's no reason to think you won't be able to just bung it straight back on afterwards.

 

Back to the original question, though.  The hub is held on with four Torx-head bolts, and from memory, access is through a hole in the front plate of the assembly so you'll need some of the longer torx bits and/or a long thin bar.



Have something to contribute?

Sign in or register to start a topic...


Not what you're looking for?

Register now, we have a huge community of enthusiasts to answer any questions you might have



0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users