Ford Fiesta Thrust Bearing Failure Gearbox Removal Fiesta Style 1.25 2005

[FlightSim]

Hi, I'm trying to repair my girlfriends ford fiesta Style 1.25 2005. I sure the thrust bearings gone as when the clutch pedals depressed I can hear the clutch plate rattling. Could someone please give me some advice for removing the gearbox. I've experience doing this with a golf mk4 but the fiesta is fairly tight for space. Should I remove the subframe and should I undo the main engine mount as when the engine gearbox is fully titled I still don't have much space to clear the gearbox mount. Was considering taking of the sub frame as I'm stuggling to remove the drive shaft on the gearbox side. Have tried to use a bar to work it off with no luck. thanks

[wase16ll]

trying to picture if the 2005 was the same as the slightly earlier models...

but that mounting your talking about, is it the one situated to the right and rear of the box as you look at it from front...if so then from memory, remove the box mounting bracket, think its 3 bolts/studs...bit fiddly, need to jack and lower the box to get studs out but once out of the way gives a lot more room.

which side driveshaft

[FlightSim]

yeap, The gear box mount has a nut to release the gearbox then the mount just has two bolts to undo to remove it.

Was thinking I could avoid taking off the subframe by undoing the main engine mount and using a ratchet strap around the wheel arch to pull the engine more to one side to give more room on the gearbox side. But by removing the gearbox mount plate would help a lot for space. The drive shaft I'm having difficulty with is the short one. The long one on the engine side just dropped straight off. thanks Paul

[wase16ll]

not sure what your using to pull the shaft, but you get the odd one that can be stubborn...easiest way is to make sure you apply pressure to both sides of the inner joint so that it comes out straight, if only applying pressure to one side it may not give the movement needed to compress the clip

with the mount bracket removed, when box is ready to come out you can pull it back and spin the casing round to give the necessary clearance to remove, no need for straps etc...again you may need to raise or lower the box in order to get to that point, but once you've spun the case it will pull free

[wase16ll]

btw...re the bracket, im talking about the one that is physically bolted to the diff of the box...from memory there are 3 nuts to remove the mount, once out of the way you will see 3 studs that are bolted to diff holding a bracket, remove those 3 studs and the bracket..( to the right of inner cv joint as looking from under wheelarch)

sure its the same as earlier types but im going on memory so could be wrong

[mick85]

Subframe removal not required but it's whatever makes it easier for u have a ramp or u doing on axle stands

[FlightSim]

Using axle stands on breeze blocks. Jack under the engine and using a crane for the gearbox. Using a bar with a flat head to try and pull the drive shaft off will try find something else to apply pressure on the opposite side too. Will remove that mount on the gearbox too. cheers

[mick85]

There is a special tool for getting out ps shaft but if u stuck get a slim flat head screw driver go from ds there a bar in the middle but u can go either side of it an hammer it our this works cause sometimes u might not get bar in with subframe still in place an special wit u doing it on ground

[bostock2000]

hi guys i had a similar problem, difference being I am getting a rattle when i release the clutch which a garage said could well be the thrust bearing, reading this thread you guys seem to have a pretty good idea of the gearbox and just wondered if you have any idea what this pipe/tube might be ? it was just sat on top of the box after what i imagine was a repair just before i bought it . any help would be invaluable . thanks in advance.

[mick85]

kevin wats ur issue it dont look familar has it any numbers on it probably someone try use it to repair something dropped it an couldn find it so left it could be there years ha

[bostock2000]

no numbers or threads, probably should have stated size too ...it is about the size of a whistle.

I just seem to be having a slight clutch judder with a "hooping " noise when i pull away in 1st gear.

The car , fiesta finesse TDCI has only done 52k miles and supposedly had a clutch 10 k miles ago, doesn't seem to be any popping from the fuel rail normally associated with the seals, and i don't have any acceleration issues but it does seem to make for a "bumpy" ride.

I also discovered shortly after i bought it that the clutch pedal position switch, above the clutch, was disconnected, which made me a bit wary . so thought this pipe/tube might have been left out from somewhere.

[wase16ll]

though i dont recognise where it could come from, it looks like a guide that will sit in a rubber bush/mounting, that a bolt will go through.

any idea if its has a dmf, and if there is a possibility its been converted to solid flywheel

[mick85]

Is this through all gears possibly used cheapest clutch available I heard people gettin clutch whoop from cheap spurious parts

[bostock2000]

though i dont recognise where it could come from, it looks like a guide that will sit in a rubber bush/mounting, that a bolt will go through.

any idea if its has a dmf, and if there is a possibility its been converted to solid flywheel

I think it does have the Dual mass flywheel, can be expensive to replace i guess.

[FlightSim]

Hi had some problems getting the gearbox bracket with the rubber mount off as one of the buts was badly seized, finally got it off with some more heat an impact gun and a size 14 socket smacked on the 15 nut. Then was able to drop the engine and gearbox to remove the mount with the 3 bolts. Couldn't get the drive shaft off but was able to just leave it on then pin the box off and get drop it off. To my suprizesit wasn't the thrust bearing so took off the clutch pressure plate to find this was in to parts, the metal strips that allow if to spring back and that hold it on had all sheared off which is a new one on me. The clutch had plenty off meat left on it, so wasn't that old, probably just poor quality replacment part. thanks Paul

[wase16ll]

seen that a few times, probably a cheap kit

[FlightSim]

Taken me ages to find the time to finish this but the cars almost back together. I found how the clutch pipe fitted the old clutch slave cylinder is different. On the other one you can insert the white plastic fitting all the way in until it stops against the round white plastic part and then the clip goes in correctly. On the new clutch to get the clip in the fitting it can't be inserted as far in as it can go in order to be able to fit the clip in the locating groove. The white plastic wound piece is 5mm further to the end of the plastic tube for the slave cylinder. Instead of being flush with it. It said the slave cylinder was for a 2005 fiesta 1.25 when I purchased it now I'm worried I've got the wrong slave cylinder fitted?

Also what the best way to get the suspension strut back on the wheel hub housing as when I had to remove it was very tight getting this off, and I can't get a compression tool in under the wheel arch to compress the spring a bit. thanks Paul

[mick85]

Your best bet is take shock out turn upside down an hammer hub on wit load grease on it can u put picture up the modified piece was this genuine ford part or spurious

[FlightSim]

thanks, no wasn't genuine ford part purchase from http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290851727103&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:GB:1123

cars a ford fiesta style 1.25 2005, i will take a pic when i get back home thanks Paul

[mick85]

I had this problem before I think ford sell a modified piece so u can join them together

[FlightSim]

Hi I've upload a photo here to photo bucket can view if you copy this to your web browser address line http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/FlightSim221/library/

Is difficult to get a decent shot but you can see the gap between the wider white ring on the hydraulic pipe fitting and the black tube with the circle which is the slave cylinder. On the old slave cylinder this larger white ring was flush against the black tube end, no gap. thanks Paul

[wase16ll]

with regards to hub to strut...just open the gap on the hub where the strut slides in, you only need to open it a little, although it looks a solid bit of metal it will open out without much force if you drive a chisel or similar down the slot...strut will then just glide in and then just torque up the bolt.

there was a modified pipe from slave to master, been a while since i done one so cant say if you need the modified pipe or been given the old type slave...chances are you need the modified pipe