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dunc

Fiesta Durashift Gearbox Actuator Diy Repair

4 posts in this topic

Just repaired my Durashift gearbox actuator using the procedure in the superb posting by Lasse1955:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/18532-fix-durashift-gearbox-problem-easy/

Starting a new post mainly because I somehow missed Lasse’s post two years ago when I forked out the thick end of a grand to have Ford dealer diagnose and replace Durashit (OOPs, genuine typo, but maybe it ought to stay uncorrected!). His post is the place to go but hopefully this will help point the way there. I just have a few minor points to make

First, from all I’ve now read, the gearbox actuator problem diagnosed and sorted by Lasse ought to be the prime suspect if you have a Durashift failure that you can’t otherwise specify. Mine failed(nothing on gear selection display, warning light, no engine start) after just two years and 10K miles from installing a new unit. I only took off the actuator unit to eliminate from enquiries, as they say. It was stuck solid. Needed levering forcibly with a big screwdriver to release the rack.

Getting the unit off the car involves just four Torx bolts. The top one is a fiend to get at, or even see without a mirror, but undo it first, not last, otherwise it’s even more tricky with the weight of the unit hanging on it. Otherwise, easy to reach the other bolts if you raise the car just a bit to get under with usual precautions.

I’d really recommend forking out a tenner for a 16mm reameron Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Reamer-16mm-HSS-Milling-/121206449964?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

It might not be a top end tool but easily good enough to use on plastic.

I went in from the bottom end with the reamer (the bottom end when unit on the car) on the basis that it might give better alignment/guidance of the tool.

When re-assembling, you need to reset the rack with cogs in the right position. As it now moves

freely in the sleeve/bush, it’s an idea to use adhesive tape or similar to hold the rack in place while fitting the gear to it.

Might get back with photos if I can sort temporary blip with technology

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Definatey worth getting photo's up if its possible.

What was the total cost in the end to resolve?

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In reply to jeebowhite, the cost was just £10.80 for the reamer from Ebay. Obviously re-useable if the problem crops up again in the same unit. Beats £800 plus.

Hopefully the photos are now attached. Photo 1 shows the position of the rack in the housing before dislodging for repair. Right of picture is at top when unit on car. As became clear on re-assembly, the rack was fully at the end of its upward travel. In other words, as stuck as it can get.

Photo 2 shows the untidy result of drilling the top cap with a 5/8” drill (nearest size below 16mm that I could find). Not a big deal as the sliding surface extends only to end of metal housing. However, if you want to open this end up, I’d recommend a pilot central hole of 3mm or so followed by about 10mm, then carefully trim opening with Stanley blade.

Photo 3 shows reamer entry through bottom end (if on car). It’s possible that there’s no need then to drill through upper cap if you can remove plastic swarf inside.

One last thing (no photo), I cut down a disused 15mm plastic stop end to act as cap, then glued with Araldite after roughing the aluminium to expose fresh metal. E.g.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-stop-end-15mm-pack-of-2/94176

Not sure if Araldite is the best adhesive, but strength of bond maybe not a big issue

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post-23735-0-62207300-1386874398_thumb.j

post-23735-0-60512400-1386874660_thumb.j

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Very good information there Duncan, most of it went over my head but thats because I dont have a great deal of knowledge to the durashift!

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