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Mikeed

Euro 3 Egr Issues

14 posts in this topic

First post so sorry if its been answered elsewhere.

Had a complete loss of power in my 2.0 diesel 06 plate Mondeo over the weekend. EML fault code flagged up the EGR, so took it off and cleaned it up, reset faults and put everything back together.

This cured it for about a day, after which it started driving very lumpy, with intermittent loss of power and lots of black smoke, so I bit the bullet and have blanked off the EGR pipe as mentioned in other posts on here.

Car is now running fine, but the EML light has come back on twice, both times with EGR problem as the code.

For info mine has the Euro 3 type Vacuum EGR, and NOT the Euro 4 type motorised version.

I was under the impression the ECU didn't need fooling when blanking the Euro 3.... Can anyone enlighten me?

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It sounds, with yours being an 06 model and the EML coming on that you have a euro4 egr.

Does you egr also have an electronic connection on the side of it as well as the vacuum hose. If so then it the other version of the euro4.

There are three types of egr on the mondy.

euro3 which only has a vacuum hose on it.

Euro4. there are two types. mechanical only, and vacuum hose with electrical connector, some call the vacuum and electrical one a euro3.5 but that is only so people can understand which type you have.

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Thanks!..looks like mine is the Vacuum type Euro 4. Is it worth fitting a blanking plate with a hole in to fool the ECU? I've heard varying reports....

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to be honest, one with a hole is pointless, as it defeats the objective of blanking the EGR off. You wont see any benefits.

The best bet, is to remove, clean and replace the EGR valve.

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As James says, the hole in the blank defeats the object of blanking it and it doesnt fool the ECU. take the egr off, clean it and Id also suggest cleaning the manifold too as that gets coked up also.

See how the car runs then.

If the car is running fine with the blank, that suggests there are no split hoses (these often cause rough running and black smoke).

If the car still runs rough once you have cleaned everything, then Id say stick the blank on and just erase the EML code once a week to make sure there are no other faults that would bring the light on (thats what I do).

I had egr problems a few years back. After forking out a fortune to replace the egr and the associated parts, the car still ran rough and chucked out black smoke (to the point of completely blacking out the road behind and engulfing cars and bikes). I then blanked the EGR (I have since blanked the exhaust end too and removed the metal connecting pipe to give better access to the engine bay) and bought a cheap code reader off ebay, and the car has run sweet ever since.

There is mention of the EML now being part of the MOT. Several people, including ,myself now let the light come on the week before the test and erase it just before it goes in, so the light doesnt come on while it is being tested.

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Is it worth fitting a blanking plate with a hole in to fool the ECU?
They're about as useful as a condom with a hole in.
jeebowhite and mick85 like this

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They're about as useful as a condom with a hole in.

:lol:

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boldly put BigD :p

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I used to reset the eml light every so often after blanking the egr on my euro 4, I left it for weeks and eventually it went out and hasn't come on since!

Now the eml light still works and the ecu still flags up an error with the scanner but I don't have to keep resetting that annoying light!!

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I used to reset the eml light every so often after blanking the egr on my euro 4, I left it for weeks and eventually it went out and hasn't come on since!

Now the eml light still works and the ecu still flags up an error with the scanner but I don't have to keep resetting that annoying light!!

Lucky you, I heard someone else left theres for a month or two and it went out itself too. I keep leaving mine on but so far the longest was about 10 weeks and it was still on after that time :(

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The ECUs must be each to their own then lol

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It sounds, with yours being an 06 model and the EML coming on that you have a euro4 egr.

Does you egr also have an electronic connection on the side of it as well as the vacuum hose. If so then it the other version of the euro4.

There are three types of egr on the mondy.

euro3 which only has a vacuum hose on it.

Euro4. there are two types. mechanical only, and vacuum hose with electrical connector, some call the vacuum and electrical one a euro3.5 but that is only so people can understand which type you have.

To add to that - some of the early Mondeo mk3s Euro3s with rear-EGR valves had electric EGR valves (of a different design to the late Euro4 front EGR valve)

If i had a penny for every time i read how the Euro4 EGRs are electric and the Euro3s are vaccum

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To add to that - some of the early Mondeo mk3s Euro3s with rear-EGR valves had electric EGR valves (of a different design to the late Euro4 front EGR valve)

If i had a penny for every time i read how the Euro4 EGRs are electric and the Euro3s are vaccum

Yes it winds me up too when people say because there is a vacuum hose as well as the electrical connector, it isnt a euro 4.

is te rear egr for the TDDIs or did tdcis have rear ones too?

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Yes it winds me up too when people say because there is a vacuum hose as well as the electrical connector, it isnt a euro 4.

is te rear egr for the TDDIs or did tdcis have rear ones too?

Definately on the TDDIs, some early Euro3 TDCIs had rear EGRs, they may have been electric, you also got fixed-vane turbos on some TDCIs

EDIT - the EGR valve is pnumatic, but with an electrical connector on the top as well - i will see if i can post a picture of it ,

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