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Dashboard Lights & Needles Playing Up

dashboard needles

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#16 MM92

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 06:41 PM

Quick update, changed battery, still the same issue.

 

I got the fuses checked, all seem OKAY.

 

My mate pulled the dash out hit a few cables put it back then started it up with the clutch and break down, everything kicked in and worked!

 

Fired it up a couple more times and all good, went to drive it again now and back to sqaure one.

 

Maybe a funny cable just behind the dash, possibly?

ANOTHER UPDATE!

 

Got home, fired it up, works again!

 

Also, I'm not sure if this could be connected but my driver electric window hasn't worked the past couple days and today kicked back in.

 

The way I'm looking at it, if the cluster didn't work, it wouldn't keep coming back on?

 

I've found a local place that can test it for £35 and £125 if they can fix/find issue.



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#17 Focuz

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 10:08 PM

I had a really tempermental instrument cluster, was so confused about what the hell was going on as sometimes it was normal and other times not.. but I have the mk2 focus and found tons of similar issues online, so chances are it is the cluster, not a big job to repair

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#18 MM92

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 10:37 AM

Thanks :)

 

Out of interest did your indicator lights, hand brake and full beam lights work even though the rest of the dash was dead?

 

Just spoke to BAA Reman and they said they'll pick up the cluster, key and ECU.

 

Bit of a pain, how awkard is it to get the ECU out?

 

 

 

Also, digging about the forums a bit more, this couldn't simply be caused by a faulty VVS, could it?



#19 jeebowhite

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 01:31 PM

Its unlikely to be the VSS, basically the solder joints on the back of the cluster are weak and poorly formed in the factory, they degrade and the ability for it to hold a good connection is lost. These repair services tend to resolder everything, and with the key and ECU just test it on a donor car.



#20 MM92

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 07:36 PM

Its unlikely to be the VSS, basically the solder joints on the back of the cluster are weak and poorly formed in the factory, they degrade and the ability for it to hold a good connection is lost. These repair services tend to resolder everything, and with the key and ECU just test it on a donor car.

Thanks, my mechanic is having a look tomorrow while doing the manifold.

 

I mentioned my electric window a few posts back which stopped working then restarted yesterday after taking the car apart, it's not stopped again!

 

Is there an earthing cable connecting these two things at all?

 

Seems a weird co-insodunce...



#21 jeebowhite

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:49 AM

Its possible, its probably best to check the earthing points at the engine and the gearbox area.



#22 MM92

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 03:47 PM

The mechanic had a look on Wednesday when doing the manifold but worked fine all day so didn't pick anything up.

 

Been okay the past two days and gone again today.

 

I'm gonna check for small cracks on the welding at the back of the cluster and check earthing points over the weekend.

 

Hopefully it'll play up when the mechanic plugs it in next...



#23 MM92

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 10:40 PM

Sorry for another post, just managed to get a dash test when turning the car on.

 

Going through the tests etc it said the following.

 

Know idea if it means anything...

 

R22

E001

DTC None



#24 artscot79

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 10:46 PM

the only one that means anything is dtc which is fault codes none so all is clear the mk1 lets water into the lock mechanism and window motor thres no fix really other than removing the top torque screw on the lock nearest the driver side seat and spraying wd40 at a downwards 45 degree angle then replace the screw



#25 MM92

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 01:09 PM

Just been to take the cluster out but I can't seem to get the mutli wire connection off, I didn't wanna pull too much incase it broke.

 

I unclipped the front which was just the glass and lamp filters but there was a plastic back to it covering the board itself which I haven't seen in the other videos of people taking the dash out.

 

Do I unscrew the back plastic or is there a certain way to take off the connector?



#26 jeebowhite

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 04:39 PM

unfortunately I cant say I have seen or know if its screw or not, I believe though it would probably just be lugs.

 

If you can see screws, unscrew it to be on the safe side.



#27 MM92

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 08:20 PM

Been looking about a bit more, seems as if the black plastic part lifts then swings over the white 'gate' to release.

 

I'll give it another go wednesday but has been a pattern of not working when the car is damp!



#28 MM92

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 01:01 PM

Hi,

 

Just had another go at it, followed the video on Youtube where it just unclips but mine's not budging!

 

Any ideas?

 

On the first image you can see a little white bit stopping the black 'U' clip from moving as it does in the video.

 

focus1.jpg

 

focus2.jpg



#29 MM92

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 03:56 PM

Giving at a clean as we speak but if this fails after it's dried out etc I'm going to need to take the ECU out and send off.

 

How much of a pain is the ECU to remove and also where isit?



#30 nazsky786

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Posted 11 February 2014 - 10:45 AM

An easy way to check if you have the cluster issue is with a computer and one cable . Then get a free prog called ForScan. If you have multiple errors then the cluster is the issue. The program is good. The cost to fix the cluster is £80 revtonic fix it for that much. I had the cluster issue that made the alarm keep going off. Car shutting off while driving. Scary the first time it happen. But normally the cluster is the problem..

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