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carl1991

Zetec Se Engine Swap

22 posts in this topic

Hi all, I recently hydrolocked my engine and threw a rod, so I have replaced my engine with another 1.6 zetec se.

After 2 days swapping and fitting new clutch and swapping flywheel etc it came the time to start it up...

And it doesn't start! cranks fine occasionally makes a cough of life then returns to normal cranking.

My old engine was FYDB this new one is FYDA, would that make any difference?

I have done the following to rectify:

Checked and cleaned plugs. Spark ok.

Fitted Crank and cam sensors from old engine

Had fuel coming through pipes at bulkhead, but plugs were dry, so used injector rail from old engine- plugs now wet on cranking.

Intake manifold fitted from old engine due to sensor.

Wiring harness for injectors, idle air valve and above sensor- due to new engine not having sensor.

Tried with both coil packs

Key recognised upon entry

Fuel pump primes.

EML on when cranking but goes out but comes back on.

OBD Scan showed P0320- Ignition speed? cant remember all of error message, hence swapped crank and cam sensors.

Any help very much appreciated- getting close to giving up, don't want to give up :(

Thanks

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Did you see the new engine running before the swop?

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Unfortunately not, from a breakers as on tight budget, warranted for 30 days though.

Everything is there for it to start, you sometimes get a little hope, cranking goes higher pitched, like its just about to start, but then returns to normal cranking

Thanks

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If its says ignition speed that would mean that it's retarded surely, or the timing is wrong, perhaps take the belt cover off and see if the belt has been changed and if the marks line up.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

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I was going to fit a new belt when engine was out, but couldn't undo pulley bolt! Engine was fitted with a gates powergrip that looked brand new, tensioner was bright clean silver and date wheel said 10/11 date of manufacture. Timing pin inserted and bar on camshafts but couldn't get bar into one of the cam shafts, ever so slightly out I'm talking 0.01 mm out. Would that cause a problem?

Thanks for your advice

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To be fair I'm not sure but i doubt it would cause it to not run at all.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

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That's what I thought, I could understand a rough idle.

The bar would fit, but only on certain parts of bar ( my timing bar had notch's in it) but to from cylinder wall to wall it wouldn't.

I will go back and check all connections again, this has got to be something simple.

Thanks

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If it trys have you considered the dimple bits like fuel filter, battery, air filter?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

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Battery ok but does go flat after cranking a few times, its been on charge overnight will try,again when I'm back. I haven't checked the filter and i haven't got the equipment to test fuel pressure, but I had fuel at the red and white pipes coming through the bulkhead, but plugs were dry, so swapped injectors from old engine- plugs now wet.

New air filter as old one was sodden due to flood.

Thanks

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Try the battery first then, flood? There wasn't any water in the motor when you first tried it?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

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My old engine hydrolocked, and threw no 3 rod, so replaced unit.

Will try the battery, .any ideas how to test fuel pressure? My rail doesn't have a valve.

Thanks

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No sorry mate, I would have thought there is a live data code for low fuel pressure anyway.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

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Engine sparks, had injectors out and cranked whilst held fuel Rail and they spray Fine. Will double check all plugs and Wires tomorrow.

Thanks for help

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Timing set again- now dead on as was very slightly out. STILL NO START?!

Will buy a compression tester as it has got to be lack of compression, it has everything else needed to fire

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Timing set again- now dead on as was very slightly out. STILL NO START?!

Will buy a compression tester as it has got to be lack of compression, it has everything else needed to fire

Are the plugs connected right (in the right order)?

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Yes all connected correctly, thus presuming cylinder 1 is timing belt end?

Well and truly stumped.

Thanks

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Getting worried now about flywheel. I have just read online about cars not starting after flywheel replacement....

Flywheel was replaced as for some reason my clutch would not go on the other engine, there were no dowels for the clutch to sit on, so I just swapped them, does the flywheel have to be put back in a certain position?

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Getting worried now about flywheel. I have just read online about cars not starting after flywheel replacement....

Flywheel was replaced as for some reason my clutch would not go on the other engine, there were no dowels for the clutch to sit on, so I just swapped them, does the flywheel have to be put back in a certain position?

The ignition timing may be taken off the fliwheel, thats how the ECU knows the crank position if its in the wrong position the spark may happen at completely the wrong time

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Haynes never stated anything. Hope i dont hace to remove it!

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Haynes assumes the replacement parts are identical to (and compatible with) the original ones

Problem is, you don't know if this is the reason the engine does not start

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This has now baffled 2 mechanics?!

Timing is correct, fuel ok, no fault codes new crank sensor as one mechanic said it had intermittent spark, how many times should each plug spark when taken out and observed when cranking? i.e., my plugs fire sort of /...../...../...../ should it be more of a ./././././././.... - I imagine that doesn't make much sense but imagine the forward slash to be spark, full stop to be pause, basically should they be firing a lot quicker than they are?

Thanks

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Are the leads in a decent condition aswell as the coil pack as that would effect the spark quality and frequency?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

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