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CB2K

Fiesta Not Starting - Suspected Immobiliser Issue

18 posts in this topic

Hi all,



I have recently had a new engine fitted on my Fiesta. It was leaking compression, and rather than take the head off I managed to get a replacement engine for a good price with fitting. When I collected it from the garage on Tuesday, it took a few times to get the car to start, as the immobilizer light kept flashing. I made sure to turn the car off and on again a few times to make sure that it was working fine. Today however, the same issue again. The car will not start and I can hear a clicking sound coming from around the glove compartment. I have monitored the flashes and it seems that the code is 11, I could be wrong though. If you guys have any suggestions that would be fantastic - I thought these cars were really reliable but have had to pay out crap loads since I bought it. Apologies if this is in the wrong place. I should also add it sometimes flashes EAC failure as well.


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apologies if this is in the wrong section, again any help would be appreciated

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Is there a possibility its battery related?

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Im not sure. It has not been jumped and was running fine at the garage when they used it, however it was sitting for over a month and not being used. It did start when I went to use it, but this was before everything got disconnected and new engine was fitted,

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My car clicked like mad and wouldn't start (has not undergone such major heart surgery though!) and a replacement battery and everything was sorted.

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The lights in the car are working fine and there is no dimness there. Did the clicking originate from the glove box? I have never heard it before. Was the immobiliser light on as well?

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If it was I am willing to give this a try, be fantastic if it is only this

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All electrics appeared to work fine, sub and amp still had enough power to work, windows etc still worked. Yeah, noise from same location, cant say about the light. It was alive though, I'd have noticed if it was not there. Could be worth charging the battery up, if it starts then that was your issue. If it does not then something more serious is going on!

CB2K likes this

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Have u tried spare key I heard on rare occasions key needing to reprogammed if car left for long time is your car petrol or diesel wat other work was done have u checked all fuses have u got ur handbook

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The clicking noise would come from that side of the engine anyway if it was the battery because the starter clicks if it doesn't have the power to go, try charging the battery so it doesn't cost you much the problem may be that, otherwise try both keys and does it crank at all or just click?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

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I have tried both keys, neither cranks just clicks. I suspect it could be a battery or fuse issue. The garage who changed the engine over are taking it back in as the problem started there. I don't know if it would be a dodgy earth connection somewhere

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If the clicking is from the engine bay I would say that it's the battery as the starter motor in the fiesta will click and isn't 100% effective without a decent battery charge, to remove the immobiliser from reasoning what does the light do when you go through ignition position 2 and do the diagnostic lights go out while cranking?

Sent from my LT30p using Ford OC mobile app

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Ok one update. It was a battery issue and I replaced with a new battery and everything was sorted. My ex has been using it and everything has been working fine but it has just started doing it again. She has used the car today and just went out to use it and it has started again. Any suggestions? She can't guarantee she didn't leave any lights on but I doubt she did

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There's a small earth lead attached directly to the battery negative terminal , I've had these loose causing starting problems,

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Is this easy enough to sort out

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It's literally an earth eyelet under a 10 mm nut on the negative terminal , check it's tight and clean.

The fact it seemed ok when you changed the battery then deteriorated suggests this area.

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Ok checked the small earth lead, it seems to be on there tightly, and from what I can see the cable is in good condition

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Without dtcs it's going to b e hard to move forward I'm afraid.

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