nick34 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I have a 1.6 tdci (2006) and i think i may have a problem with the injecter seal on cylinder number 4 (or number 1, its the one nearest the gearbox).Looks like oil/fuel is pooling around the bottom of it. Also getting white-ish smoke on start up which stinks of burnt diesel, which is getting worse and starting to stink the cabin out. It smells as far as i can tell like burnt diesel. I can also hear (i think) a chuffing noise coming from the area of the injectors. The car seems to run fine, pulls ok but i think fuel consumption has gone up a little bit, moreso on short town journeys. Does this sound like the injecter seal to you guys?And if so it as easy to change as the Haynes book reckons? Thanks for any opinions, Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike77 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Hi Nick, these seem to be a common problem on the 1.4 & 1.6 tdci engines. First port of call ( and this worked for me ) is to locate the 2 bolts that hold the injector in place and tighten them, they will be approx 10mm bolts from memory. I spotted a video about this on YouTube and tried tightening as suggested, and it cured mine, mine is a fiesta, but same engine. If that doesn't work, then unless your confident with the spanners, I'd suggest you take it to a garage as the job can be fiddly. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS, Get a feel for how tight they should be by trying the other injectors that are not leaking, this should give you a guide. Let us know how you get on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick34 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Thanks Mike, i'll give that a go. If that doesnt sort i'll tackle the seals. I'm fairly handy with the spanners so hopefully shouldnt be too much of a problem (famous last words!) Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick34 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Just an update - I pulled the injector and it was caked with horrible black crud, so it the seal was definatly leaking. The job wasnt as bad as i thought it might be, the injector was stuck a bit but came out fairly easily with some persuasion. When it was all back together it didnt want to run (air in the high pressure fuel pipe to the injector) but a few short cranks of the starter got her going again. Only problem now is a slight fuel leak from the fuel pipe connection to the injector. I'm going to get a crows foot spanner so i can torque it properly, hopefully that should cure it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick34 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 All sorted now. The seal on the leak off pipe on number 4 injector was perished and leaking fuel. Ford wanted £28 for a new length with all 4 connectors on it, so i went to a local diesel specialist and got a new o ring for 35p. Also gave it an oil and filter change, and blanked off the EGR valve. Its running very nicely now, with no smoke at all. Job jobbed, as they say. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlGardiner Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Hi All, sorry to jump on this old thread but I am losing the will to live with my 2009 Fiesta TDCi I had the smell of diesel in the cabin do knew something was wrong. Took it to the independent garage I have always used my MOTs and services. They advised a seal had gone, I decided to replace all of them. Picked it up after the job was complete and it didn't start properly also lost all "oomph". It had no go whatsoever. Dangerously so I couldn't overtake anything on the motorway on my journey home (this was a Friday evening) The following day it had a bit of the power back, about 70%, but it still didn't start as it used to. Took it back to the garage on Monday morning. They advised nothing was loose or anything wrong. However same problem, no power when I picked it up. Took it back the following day, they took it for a spin and said they could feel it doesn't have its full power. Told me to drive it for a couple of days and see how it goes. Drove it home and the engine management light came on! So on Thurs morning I took it back and let them have it until this morning (Sat). They advised still no issues they had done. They said they can see oil has leaked and want to take some part off. But it will cost 2hrs labour to get to the part, take the "top off" and new callipers I think he said. I don't know what he said he needed exactly to get at as it was early this morning and I was just annoyed still no issue was found. I honestly don't know what to do with it. The charge is £150 which includes labour, VAT and replacement screws/callipers. But could rise if new parts are needed. Anybody come across the issue of the loosing power/no power after replacing injector seals? Sorry this is so long. Trying to give as much info as possible Thanks, Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 What was the fault code (DTC) when the engine management light came on? Is it still on? Was it injector seals or something else? Did they put the injectors back in the right order, did they bleed the fuel system Which tdci engine do you have, where's the oil leak coming from (be surprised if an oil leak would Nerf the power. You need to find out from the start what they have done, if they buggered something up you shouldn't be paying out for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlGardiner Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Morning, thanks for you're reply. I don't know what code it was when the light came on and no, it's no longer on. The garage sorted that bit when I returned it. I use the garage all the time so I presume all is done correctly. I was charged for 4hrs labour on the invoice. That sound right to bleed fuel system etc? They explained I won't need to pay for the last 3 times I took it back as it was something Ely though they had done but after 3 times of them checking they cannot see anything that they have done is wrong. Can't be a coincidence I've lost power after having injectors changed can it. Not sure if I should try another garage but they'll charge me. Sorry I can't be more helpful with your questions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 removing the injectors is a bit of a hassle on the 1.6 if that's your engine?, the EGR cooler needs taken off and the high pressure fuel lines removed which is a little fiddly at the rear (and why the cooler needs removed) that's before you even get to the injectors themselves. If they had problems getting them out then that would explain the time, otherwise it seems a little steep. Bleeding the system doesn't take long at all. Do you have the car? if so it might be worth getting a cheap EML 327 device and using a laptop do a little fault finding yourself, id be interested to know if they put the injectors in the right order and if there are any other fault codes. you got any smoke, noises, vibrations, problems starting, cutting out, you say it has no power, does it seem fine then run in to a wall at 3000rpm or is it just non existant to start with. the car needs air and fuel in the correct amount at the right time, they were messing about with injectors which would effect two of those three, chances are they have done something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlGardiner Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Yes it is the 1.6 TDCi that I have and yep, it's currently on my driveway I have no smoke now the injectors have been changed. It doesn't cut out but it doesn't start great in the mornings. Whereas before the injectors were changed it started fine every time. Sometimes it has about 70% of the power back. Other times it's completely flat and slow. Other times it doesn't rev higher than 2.5k-3k revs no matter what gear it's in. The garage have said previously codes have appreared but they have deleted them It's booked back in on Tuesday but I am reluctant to spend anymore money on it at this stage Shall I find a cheap EML 327 and post the results on here? Is it a simple case of plugging in to my car/laptop and downloading a bit of software to show to the results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlGardiner Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Or I could pop it to a Halfords and get them to have a look etc. But I'm pretty sure they'll cost an arm and leg like Ford Dealerships won't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONDEO TXS 2.2 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 A waste of your time going to Halfrauds I'm afraid - this is way above their abilities Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 im betting they have damaged the injectors while cleaning them up prior to putting new seals on the end of injectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simcor Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I think the important question here is have they changed the injector seals, or have they changed the injector seals and the injectors as well? You say it went in for the seals to be done but then you also say they changed the injectors? If they have changed the injectors then they have to be coded in with suitable diagnostics, hence why as suggested by Darren have they put the injectors back in the right positions they came from as this could make the car run badly if they are in the wrong positions. If they have put new injectors in have they coded them in to the ECU? The issue is people trust garages to know what they are doing, however some are good some are not. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 with an ELM 327 and forscan you can diagnose the injectors yourself, its a handy wee tool to have around anyway so its worth the money. I'm a little confused as well tho, was it the seals or the injectors or both they replaced? in either case my first port of call would be to see if A. If the injectors were replaced are they coded correctly B. when they were removed were they put back in the right order. buy this http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics download this http://forscan.org/download.html Instructions to install the device can be found http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=520030 when you have got it working, and forscan installed you need to change a couple of settings in forscan so it knows where to look for the device, (com ports) once you are there and forscan can connect to your car we can talk you through the rest of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlGardiner Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Ok, just to clarify (I have pulled the invoice out) the injectors seals were replaced only Darren - many thanks. I have purchased the EML. I am back at work tomorrow. It's not exactly the safest to drive de to power/speed issues but will it harm the car more if I continue to drive it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paladine Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 I just asked my local Ford centre to give me a quote for changing the injector seals (as my 1.8 TDDi is showing symptoms of bad seals) and they said it would take around 90 minutes which seems incredibly bizarre to me. I watched someone change them on YouTube and it looks like it should only take a couple of minutes per seal - is my local Ford Centre taking the Michael? I am considering ordering the o-rings and just changing themself if Ford are going to mess me about like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlGardiner Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Evening, Ok the EML arrived today and I am currently downloading FORScan software. I will follow instructions you posted but you said I need to change some settings before I use it. Are you able to let me know what these are please? Thanks, Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 you need to install the device first, once its up and running you will see a COM port in device manager, make a note of the number, in forscan you will need to change some of the settings, namely the com port to match that of the com port listed in device manager, turn off demo mode whilst your in there as well, once you have it installed you will see its easy enough to setup one. then its just a case clicking on the connect button down the bottom left. make sure the device is set to High (H) or it wont work. it will connect and read any DTCs, it will ask you do change it to Medium speed and will then check a few more things. you can then check those DTCs and see whats logged, let us know and we can talk through the checking of the injectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlGardiner Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Many thanks mate. See results below http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y326/Carl_Gardiner/EML2_zpseogffvqx.jpg http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y326/Carl_Gardiner/EML1_zpsqmzobtzj.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 they are just comms errors, unlikely to be anything but ill have a look and see http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2 read that, you will want to read the fuel injector correction values, then pop open the bonnet and compare them to the physical positions, each injector code on forscan should match the physical injectors code and location. each injector has the code stamped on it, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlGardiner Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Morning. I drove my car to work this morning as it hadn't been run or started since Saturday morning. It was a 15 mile (Brum to Cov) trip and it ran ok. About 70% of normal "boost" so I could drive it properly. It did lose power on the last mile but that was ok I checked the fuel injector values and they are all plugged in to the correct positions. I ran another quick scan before I had to be in the office to start work. The below were new errors Module - PCM Code - P0299:00-27 Turbo/Super Charger Underboost Module - OBDII Code - P0299-P Turbo/Super Charger Unerboost Any ideas? Thanks, Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 check all your hoses connections to and from the turbo, intercooler, inlet manifold , get the bonnet up and see if you can hear anything like a whistle or whine whilst someone is playing with the accelerator. Find the MAP sensor and take it out and give it a good clean with some electrical contact cleaner. you could do a trace with forscan now you have it working,click on the read PID data window, theb double left click on any of the blank boxes, you can now add the PIDS you want to check MAP, MAF, variable vane, RPM, fuel line pressure and EGR. click play then go take the car for a drive, you can then save the trace and put it up on here for us to read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleysG26 Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 Did anybody find out this problem as I'm suffering the same problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gar21 Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 There's a litte turbo boost breather pipe right beside of the oil filter sometimes people pinch this pipe and they split when tightening the plastic oil filter housing you'll have to take out the airbox to have a look if this is split it will cause the car to go into limp mode and you'll have very limited power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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