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Timing Belt


InKontrol
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Just out of interest how many Focus owners have changed their own timing belt? I ask this because I'm quite the fiddler and I'm considering doing it myself when it's due to be changed (with the help of Hayne's manual I got the other day). Dad basically said that I should take on a challenge every now and then...

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Changed my 1.6 ti-vct timing belt my self was no where near as difficult as I thought apart from dodging the rain and having to finish early due to the freezing temperatures.

Currently trying to remove glow plugs from one of our other cars which I am finding more difficult than when I did the timing belt lol

Just make sure you take your time and have the correct locking tools for your car.

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Did you jack the car off the ground, remove wheel arch liner and engine under tray to carry out the work? Judging by the instructions it's a case of locking the engine and swapping the belt out (and water pump if need be), however if the engine moves then cry a little and re-time it...

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jacked it up put on axel stands stuck jack under engine to support it, removed drivers side wheel, arch liner, tray from underneath, (without going to far into detail) remove parts then engine mount, removed starter, found tdc inserted crankshaft locking pin, inserted flywheel locking tool, removed crankshaft bolt (pain in the !Removed! used an 8ft breaker bar and a sledge hammer :D) inserted the tivct locking tool (if yours isnt a ti-vct it will be different) removed tensioner belt water pump replaced with new released tensioner, bolted crankshaft back on (there is no keyway so just be careful) used torque wrench to torque it correctly, built it all back up, added coolant ect, started it done.

Sorry for the almost short hand description lol but I can send you some instructions from autodata or from sealey depending on your exact engine.

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It's OK I've got instructions in the Hayne's book for the 1.6tdci engine, and as mentioned before it's not due for a long time yet just wanted to get an idea of the simplicity of the job from an owner's perspective. :)

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your is diesel not too sure on the process of the diesel as mine is petrol but imagine it wont be much different.

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I've got an extract here from the manual, it says:

"To lock the crankshaft, working underneath the engine, insert the Ford tool No 303-734 into the hole in the right hand-side face of the engine block casting over the lower section of the flywheel. Rotate the crankshaft until the tool engages in the corresponding hole in the flywheel"

If I'm not mistaken isn't the flywheel completely encased in the bell housing along with the clutch...?

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Basically you remove the starter motor, and the flywheel will be revealed and you insert the tool in-between the teeth in the flywheel.

it can be tight if you have shovel hands like my self lol

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Ah OK I'll do it that way then. I have absolutely no idea why the Hayne's manual shows the insertion of a pin behind the flywheel then! It doesn't even tell you to remove the flywheel either, it'll probably become clearer when I stick my head under it.

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think your talking cross purposes here

think HILK.. is locking the flywheel in order to remove the crank pulley, whereas the haynes manual is talking about locking the flywheel for timing purposes...so INK, you need that pin as part of the timing process

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Sorry I am thinking of my petrol engine where you lock the flywheel to remove the crankshaft bolt but lock the crank with a bolt for timing.

As I now know you have a diesel and not a petrol everything I have said won't really relate to your car. Sorry for any confusion.

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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After reading the instructions a few times it's becoming clearer on what to do:

1. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers (which involves removing the crankshaft pulley, and to remove it I will need to lock the engine from rotating by using a locking tool at the flywheel end)
2. Remove the crankshaft position sensor and timing belt protection bracket
3. Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt (without the pulley) and use that to rotate the engine
4. Check that the camshaft sprocket alignment with the cylinder head is correct, check that the crankshaft flange alignment with the oil pump housing is correct, check that the fuel pump sprocket alignment with the fuel pump mounting bracket is correct

5. Lock the engine by inserting all 3 locking pins in to their relevant locations, camshaft, crankshaft, fuel pump

6. Use a hex key to lock the tensioner in place while undoing the tensioner mounting bolt

7. Move the hex key slowly to release the tension on the belt, remove the belt and renew the tensioner

8. Route the belt around all of the idlers and sprockets as well as the new tensioner

9. Refit timing belt protection bracket

10. Slacken the tensioner pulley bolt, then set its tension by rotating the index arm anticlockwise

11. Remove the locking pins and turn the engine 10 times

12. Check that the index arm has remained in the indexed position

13. Tighten the tensioner bolt to the correct torque and (not mentioned in the book but I'll do it for the sake of double checking) crank the engine 10 times more and see if I can refit the locking pins, and again check the indexing arm on the tensioner pulley
14. If I can refit the locking pins I'll then refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten to the correct torque

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diesel engine is a little bit more involved, but no more difficult that the petrol

on the diesel, you can use the flywheel locking pin to remove/fit crank pulley bolt so no need to pull out the starter

the diesel pulley also has a keyway, so not so much of a drama in refitting.

just make sure you have the timing tool kit, plus, bearing in mind the renewal is 125k or 10 years, will be false economy not to change the water pump as this is driven by the belt....would say the same even if you changed the belt really early

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Can you lock the flywheel using the locking pin without having to remove the starter? I thought that the starter area would be the only exposed area of the flywheel?

You mention the water pump but I'll probably also check the condition of the idlers too.

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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At a guess from reading you can lock the crankshaft by inserting a pin in the back of the engine block, I think.

I know on my petrol there is a blanking plug at the back of the engine that you remove and insert a pin and turn the engine untill it rests fully onto the pin, then on the petrol you lock the flywheel by removing the starter, probably due to the amount of force needed to undo the crankshaft bolt aswell as there being no keyway.

So from reading the above no you do not have to remove your starter just insert a locking pin into the back of the engine block aswell as the other two mentioned in the instructions.

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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on the petrol, the timing pin 'locks' by a lug on the crankshaft resting on the pin.

on a diesel, the timing pin inserts into a hole in the back of the flywheel...so a diesel is truly locked but the petrol is only stopped from turning clockwise

also, the flywheel pin on the diesel is approx 1/2" diameter and robust enough to cope with the pressure of undoing/tightening the crank bolt without problem

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Diddnt know it was like that just curious my self.

Pitty the petrol wasn't just one bolt into the flywheel as it was a pain putting the flywheel locking tool in due to my fat shovel hands lol

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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did seem a weird way to 'lock'the crank...never understood why it wasnt fitted with a keyway on the crank either...i know a few that were never torqued properly which ended up with bent valves.

Ink

not worth checking pump and idlers...just change them mate....highly unlikely they will last another 100k miles after the belt was changed..if any fail, kiss the engine goodbye

get a full timing kit and new water pump

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