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Rust Hole Repair


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#1 karlos1987

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 03:49 PM

I have got a rust hole appear on my car.

It is just underneath the car by the front of the drivers door. So if you look under your car where you have the lip you can jack your car up on its just past that.

Can any body tell me If I can repair this with filler rather than welding.

It's probably the size of a 20p piece. Will obviously get bigger when I clean all the rust away.

Any advice would be appreciated



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#2 wase16ll

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 08:00 PM

needs welding, be it floor pan or the sill panel (thats the panel under the doors that join to the floorpan)

#3 karlos1987

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 08:04 PM

So would I not be able to fill it just as a temporary fix seen as iv just spent £400 plus on bits for the car. Tyres grill lights etc.

With the mot being due soon would filler be an option to just get me through the mot so I can save my pennies for welding?

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#4 wase16ll

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 08:32 PM

think best way i can answer that is by saying...

if the tester spots a hole in the floor and/or sill panel has been repaired with filler..it will fail.

how you interpret that answer is up to you

hasten to add, its not the route i'd take on a customers car...before anyone tries pulling me up on that
:)

#5 karlos1987

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 08:41 PM

think best way i can answer that is by saying...

if the tester spots a hole in the floor and/or sill panel has been repaired with filler..it will fail.

how you interpret that answer is up to you

hasten to add, its not the route i'd take on a customers car...before anyone tries pulling me up on that
:)

Ok. Thanks for the info. Do you know roughly how much welding can cost? Would it be cheaper if I was to prep the area first?

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#6 wase16ll

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 11:18 PM

depends exactly where the hole is, still not sure if you mean floor pan or lower sill?

floor pan..yes, can save yourself some money by doing as much prep as possible...welding is best on the inside.. when it comes to removing all trace of sound deadening etc, usually easiest to heat it up with a blow torch and scrape it away..taking all necessary precautions obviously...sometimes its possible to give it a few light blows with a chisel or similar, as this will crack it and break off...
your looking to find good clean metal that is at least 1-1.5" surrounding the hole. plus all traces of sound deadening etc a further 3-4" away from the clean metal
dont be suprised if the welder spends a little time going over what you do though.

lower sill...easier to prepare, just attack it with an angle grinder till you get a few inches either side of the hole, remove all traces of rust/sealant/paint/underseal etc...if you find the hole a lot bigger than it first appears, might be easier to just get a replacement panel or oversill..in which case you may be better off letting the welder do the work.

#7 wase16ll

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 11:25 PM

re a rough quote...not really, an inch hole often ends up much larger by the time you find clean metal...size of repair makes a big differance to cost...

#8 karlos1987

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 08:14 AM

It's the lower sill sorry.

Do you know where you can get 1 of those from?

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#9 wase16ll

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 09:47 AM

any decent motor factors should be able to order for you, otherwise the good old www

nothing wrong with patching a weld in though.

replacing the sill or welding an oversill in can be more expensive obviously, but would look better imo

#10 karlos1987

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 10:12 AM

Ok. Thanks for all your help. Cheers.

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