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nazsky786

P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire

72 posts in this topic

That's just wrong. How much oil should I put in the cylinder?

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That's just wrong. How much oil should I put in the cylinder?

One or two tablespoons of oil will be fine.

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Piston rings

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With oil they all go to 120 psi.

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Sounds like it needs a new piston ring ide just do all of them at once though

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Yh piston rings have gone on all 4 cylinders . So have to have all repaired. Anyone know a price?

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It's at the garage now. The are going to give me a price once they checked it. I just need to know what you lot think it would cost? Also piston 1 is the worse but all of them have to be changed. 120psi will oil 50 when no oil. I was hoping it would just be the coil pack or something.

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Is it really expensive then? No one ?

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Your compression is too low for all cylinders, it isn't just cylinder 1 that's a problem, generally speaking you should be getting atleast a minimum of 150psi on a wet test.

will it be expensive? Not sure on price of repair

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Ford OC mobile app

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The biggest problem is that Ford does not supply internal engine parts of the bottom end of the engine block. The only option from Ford will be a complete new (or factory remanufactured) bottom end of the engine. A complete new lower end for the 1.6 Duratec costed approximately €1200,- 2 years ago.

For internal engine parts of this type of engine you are in the hands of the aftermarket parts manufacturers/suppliers. If you search on the internet you will find very few intermal engine parts for the 1.6 Duratec engine. For the older 1.6 Zetec SE engines a lot more of aftermarket internal engine parts are available. Despite the 1.6 Duratec is a further developed version of the old 1.6 Zetec SE engine there are many differences between them. The casting of the engine block and cilinder head has changed but I do not know if the pistons and piston rings are the same.

If you can get the right parts rebuilding the bottom end can be done but will probably cost a lot of money. A kit of 4 (standard or oversize) pisons and piston rings will cost approximately €600,- and a gasket kit will cost approximately €100,-. Depending on how much the cilinder walls are damaged it might be necessary to bore/hone the cilinders. This will cost you another €200,- to €300,-. Next it will also be necessary to change the timing belts and both drive belts (stretch belts can not be reused). The prices of the parts and labour cost will probably be high.

The cheapest option will be to install a used low mileage engine from a scrap car. These engines can often be found at a scrap yard for relative low prices (starting at about €500,-. If you can install it yourself you also will reduce the labour costs.

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Oh dear! An engine from a scrap car as suggested is the way to go then I would think. The costs involved in repairing that will be ridiculous.

You should be able to pick up an engine for a few hundred quid. Make sure you get some sort of warranty and receipt/invoice

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So I eithier have it repaired to the standard of a new engine and have some performance added for £1000 or less, or I can have new engine but old from scrappy for £600 or more. Both would have a warranty. I'm leaning more towards the making the engine new. Anyone agree? £1000 it won't cost more then that.

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Rebuilding the engine may cost more than 1000 Pounds. The costs of rebuilding the engine can only be determined after the engine is completely taken apart.My experience is that a new bottom end from Ford may even be cheaper than rebuilding the current bottom end.

In my opinion a decent rebuild of the engine should include:

* Disassembling of the engine.

* Cleaning of all engine parts.

* Renewing the pistons and piston rings.

* Renewing all bearings.

* Machining of the crankshaft if needed.

* Boring/honing the cilinder block if needed.

* Machining the mating surface of the cilinder head.

* Renewing all gaskets, seals, filters, etcetera.

* Assembling of the engine.

* Changing the timingbelt.

If the engine needs to be taken out of the car you should also consider changing the clucht assembly at the same time.

Depending on what is wrong with the engine and the part prices the costs of a rebuild can be very high. In most cases a used engine with low mileage would economically be the best option. In my situation a rebuild will be the cheapest option bcause I can do this myself

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Ok. What does Ford give for the bottom end.

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an engine from the scrappy with a warranty will be much less than £600, if thats what you have been quoted - time to shop around.

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There is alot of 1.6 floating about on ebay

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Ford OC mobile app

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Would a Zetec SE fit on a 1.6 duratec? I found some fairly cheap reconditioned engines, including the zetec se

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The 1.6 Duratec is a further developed version of the old 1.6 Zetec SE engine. The early 1.6 Duratec engine built before 28-04-2005 was still very similar to the Zetec SE engine. There were no big differences in internal engine design. After 28-04-2005 the internal engine design of the 1.6 Duratec changed. Even the casting of the cilinder block and cilinder head were changed (closed deck to open deck construction).

Based on information of the Ford Ecat parts software A Zetec SE engine should not be suitable for your car. Even the part numbers of the old design 1.6 Durated bottom end are different to the part numbers of the Zetec SE.

You should look at the engine code first and search for an engine with the same engine code.

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If there is one bit of advice I can give you, be careful when buying so called reconditioned engines. We have had problems with companies in the past just sending any old junk! Not even clean/oil drained never mind reconditioned as per the description!

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How do you find you engine code?

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There should be a decal on the valve cover or clinder block. The displacement of the engine, engine code and serial number are listed on this decal. If the decal is missing the engine code can be determined from the casted numbers of the cilinder block. Unfortunately I do not have documentation about the casted numbers.

HWDA (stage 4 emissions) and HWDB (stage 3 emissions) are engine codes of the 1.6 Duratec engine produced before 28-04-2005 with a closed deck cilinder block

SHDA (stage 4 emissions), SHDB (stage 3 emissions) and SHDC (stage 5 emissions) are engine codes of the 1.6 Duratec engine produced after 28-04-2005 with an open deck cilinder block.

Basically these are only 2 different engine types (produced before and after 28-04-2005). For example engines with engine code HWDA and HWDB are technically identical. The only differences are emissions related.

Because the PCM and software of all 1.6 Duratec engines (2004-2011) are interchangeable I suspect it will be no problem to install an engine with one of the other engine codes listed above (as long as you change the complete engine).

Note that engines of different Ford models may also be identical but have different engine codes.

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Ok been offer £1291 to re-condition my engine. Been offer a focus st engine complete with everything for £2500 mileage only 12,000. Last offer I've found was £700 but is like a swap so you give them my old engine and they send a previous re-conditioned one. If I go for st engine I'm have the famous 5 pot and have some power to the pedal.

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Ok been offer £1291 to re-condition my engine. Been offer a focus st engine complete with everything for £2500 mileage only 12,000. Last offer I've found was £700 but is like a swap so you give them my old engine and they send a previous re-conditioned one. If I go for st engine I'm have the famous 5 pot and have some power to the pedal.

And you will need to upgrade everything else too, never mind the insurance complications..

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Everything else on the car is already there. Body, brakes, exhurst everything. It's a ST replica so all that is left is the engine. Perfect opportunity to make it no longer a replica.

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Everything else on the car is already there. Body, brakes, exhurst everything. It's a ST replica so all that is left is the engine. Perfect opportunity to make it no longer a replica.

Fair enough. I would still be enquiring with insurance first.. If they even want to insure it

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