Note that if you are actually living in Germany (as in, having Germany as your registered residence and having no other place that you can claim convincingly is also your residence) you have, I believe, 12 months after you move to register your car there and then the German laws apply. (This is historical data that may have changed).
Now, if the car has to be TUV'ed, I strongly suspect that you have to have pads (bear with me on this) that meet regulation 90, and if your pads do meet reg 90 that should be enough for the pads to be legal. (If you've got anyone you can check this with, please do, because I'm jumping a bit to conclusions, but that should be what reg 90 is about, so my feeling is that the Germans have to accept it...).
Now reg 90 does allow you quite a choice of pads - not the extreme end of the race pads and track-day-only pads, but, essentially anyone who wants to get their road pads qualified and has the time and the budget to do it can do (assuming a reasonable coeff of friction, which road pads will usually have...well, they will these days, or they won't bother, because they won't get them qualified for normal road use).
Now, where is this going? Well, if I were you, I'd be fitting performance pads and decent quality rotors. Actually getting an idea of what will work for you is the difficult part, but that would be my objective.
Rotors would come from Pagid, Mintex, Brembo, EBC etc. these are decent brake manufacturers who know about perf brakes - slightly uncomfortably, you can't tell anything about much other than that, and these can be 'ordinary' rotors from 'good' brands, but you have to take a chance. Well, unless you know someone who you trust, who has tried them and who has a similar driving style to you, and who will advise you what has worked for them.
Pads: You mention dust; if dust is at least reasonably high priority, I'd consider EBC Greenstuff, which are supposed to be low dust (some of that will be the dust that is generated is less black than most, so 'the visual impression of low dust' might be more accurate). See here for some comparative data on EBC pads.
Now, I might try, instead of the EBC pads, pads from Pagid, Brembo or Mintex (actually, or Ferodo, but there are few of the Ferodo pads that are reg 90 approved, so be careful...mind you, that's true for Pagid, too, but they tend to separate the motorsport and road dealers more). Now, these are perf brake organisations, but it is difficult to find out where the pads commonly on sale for road usage fit into their range. So, Pagid for example have some excellent sport pads, but how do what is on sale for road cars relate to those pads? Don't know and can't find out, but they won't be the same.
Declaration of interest (sort of):
I am currently upgrading my Mk IV to EBC Yellowstuff and Pagid front rotors. Primarily, I'm trying to kill some grabbiness, so my problem is different from yours and I don't know how well it will work. If I was doing it again, I might not choose the Yellows, because they are at the top end of the price range, so I might gamble on the cheaper (!!!) Brembos or Pagids. But, the Yellows are the only thing that gives me any indication that they might do anything about the grabbiness, and that seems to be down to the fact that they are not fully up to maximum braking perf at low temps...we'll see how well that works.
The Pagid rotors are currently on offer at Euro Car Parts. Whether these are any different from Mintex rotors (the TMD group includes Textar, Mintex, Don and Pagid), I don't know. All I can say is that these are people who know braking, so I hope they are good, but I don't actually have any knowledge of whether they are, or not. I find the standard Ford rotors tend to rust quite quickly, and as the rust wears off quickly, that leads to relatively fast wear.
Actually, also note that rotor warping is not usually (ever?) down to warped rotors. What happens is that material from the pads is adsorbed on to the surface of the rotors when hot (very hot, as in glowing red hot). This means that the thing not to do is to remain hard on the brakes (or the handbrake) after you have worked the brakes hard and come to a stop, as that is the condition in which this is likely to occur.
(The result is that the areas with the transferred material have a different coefficient of friction from the 'plain' disc surface, and that is what is felt as 'warping', although you'll struggle to measure any run out, which you would be able to do if the 'warping' really was the disk rotor becoming warped.)