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mark1982

Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

17 posts in this topic

Hi,

Hoping someone can help this one.

I have a 53 plate mondeo with a sticking rear caliper causing the handbrake to fail on one side. I'll keep this short, the handbrake stuck on causing the wheel bearing to overheat, requiring a new wheel bearing. This was replaced along with new pads and discs but I still have the issue with the caliper siezing, although as the handbrake is not working on this one side it doesnt stick the handbrake on causing it to overheat - again.

When I fitted the new pads I wound back the piston on the caliper. When I checked the other day I can see that the piston has wound out, yet the handbrake arm on the rear of caliper will only move back and forth with brute force (hammer).

Could it be that the piston is getting stuck halfway out due to corrosion? If so, can these things be cleaned up and refitted or is it simpler to buy a new part?

I thought is was the handbrake cable which attaches to the caliper, which in turn pulls the arm which pushes the piston out - is this correct?

Any guidance appreciated as MOT is looming.

Thanks.

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it sounds like caliper to me mate. I had exact same problem on my drivers side..i would say replace caliper but also check that the slider pins are straight as you might have a bent 1 causing it to stick when it reaches that point on slider (Part where pads sit into) and main caliper bolts to. Also when cable removed from caliper do the cables move as they tend to seize up. And yes thats how they work ."I thought is was the handbrake cable which attaches to the caliper,
which in turn pulls the arm which pushes the piston out - is this
correct?"

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Thanks for your reply.

I had the slider pins out and they looked straight, greased them up and put them back.

Would the slider pins affect the piston? I was thinking the pins only came in to play when the brakes were used?

What's your thoughts on replacement calipers, scrap yard? cheap ones off ebay? or fords own?

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The slider pins come out when the piston is pushed out but if they was bent could snag causing drag..As urs arnt then i say piston .you can get repair kits and pistons but they are almost as expensive as calipers themselves. My opinion would be to either buy new but not remanufactored as you dont know how bad they where b4 they processed them,ford are expensive.However theres a guy on ebay that dose good new sets at £40 each side from uk with warranty... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-CALIPER-PAIR-REAR-FORD-MONDEO-MK-3-III-SALOON-HATCH

I got mine here..my last mondeo i fitted 2nd hand i made sure they worked well and in good condition not hanging with rust cleaned them up esp around handbrake pivit /adjuster as for labour i done them in about hr n half both rears

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I'll recheck the pins first.

I'll also remove the caliper from the pins and try to push the piston out by moving the lever, if it still doesn't budge I guess I can safely say it's the piston at fault.

Thanks for the link above, do you know the ebay sellers name? The link only shows the expired item.

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Cheers. I'll have a look at the pins and go from there.

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Most likely that the seal over the piston has split and the piston has rusted up. In that case an exchange caliper from ford is your best bet.

Worth checking it though. If the cover has not split it might be worth taking the pads out, wind the piston all the way back in, the hand brake leaver on the back of the caliper should now move by hand (very springing though).

If not you will need to strip the whole caliper to clean/check it.

If it does move pull it back and disconnect the cable from the caliper.

Pull the handbrake on (from inside the car) and the cable should go in. Then let it off and make sure it comes back out by itself to check for sticking in the sheath.

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So I checked the pins, they looked straight. Wound the piston back in but the lever on the back of the caliper still won't budge without a lot of force.

With the handbrake off the cable can be pushed back and forth through the sheath with ease.

I've also noticed when the handbrake is taken off, I can hear the cable dropping on to the heat shield. I gather this is because the springs on the caliper are not putting any tension in to the cable.

The drivers side rear caliper seems to be in a bad shape too, although the handbrake does have some hold just not enough to support the car. What's strange is that the lever hardly seems to budge when the handbrake is put on for this side.

I'm guessing two new calipers should fix the issues. My only other thought is the handbrake needs adjusting, or is the adjuster just used for refining and not for making a handbrake work?

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So I checked the pins, they looked straight. Wound the piston back in but the lever on the back of the caliper still won't budge without a lot of force.

With the handbrake off the cable can be pushed back and forth through the sheath with ease.

I've also noticed when the handbrake is taken off, I can hear the cable dropping on to the heat shield. I gather this is because the springs on the caliper are not putting any tension in to the cable.

The drivers side rear caliper seems to be in a bad shape too, although the handbrake does have some hold just not enough to support the car. What's strange is that the lever hardly seems to budge when the handbrake is put on for this side.

I'm guessing two new calipers should fix the issues. My only other thought is the handbrake needs adjusting, or is the adjuster just used for refining and not for making a handbrake work?

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i say its calipers req then m8 as the lever part is seizing up u will end up stretching cables soon,

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Calipers on order, will let you know how it goes.

I've never removed the brake line from a caliper before, is there anything I should be looking out for? Does the brake line undo at the caliper or further up the line?

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Removes at the caliper.

You will need to bleed the brakes after. I would do all 4 as the fluid should be changed every couple of years anyway. Start with the caliper nearest the brake servo and work away.

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One brake caliper done however, two copper washers were supplied with the new caliper which I cannot figure how to use. I've read the washers act as a seal between the caliper and the brake line, the brake line screws in tight to the caliper but leaves a gap between the brake line and the caliper. Therefore if the washers were on they would just float about. Also there were no washers on the old caliper.

Can anyone advise on this before I do the next?

I will be changing the rear wheel bearing, can anyone advise on the correct torx size to remove the torx bolts (think its T50) and also the length the torx bit needs to be to reach the head of the bolt?

Front wishbones also need changing, I've read that the bush next to the hub is the most stubborn. Would you suggest investing in a ball joint splitter? Also, the back bolt sounds like this could be interesting as the bolt goes up - any tips here?

Cheers.

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Hi yes no need for washer as hose is tappered inside so it seals itself.. Yes ball joint splitter is handy tool to have a assume ur talking about front lower arm bushes here aswell???But also sumtimes the hub s tight in joint so you need sumthing to gentle open up hub to help joint out.The upright bolt also gose through subframe so just do a side at a time.

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Thanks for your help on the above, passed MOT yesterday with only a couple of advisories. One being the handbrake passes but could be tighter.

I know the handbrake can be tightened by removing the heat shield and tensioning the cable, but as the handbrake holds I'm guessing its on the limit before the piston pushes out a bit more to add more tension. Would this be correct?

Knowing the piston pushes out when the handbrake is pulled pulling the lever on the caliper, is it correct that the piston only moves when the lever has say 90% travel or does the piston push out with 1% travel from the lever?

Thanks again!

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it take it yours has the adjuster system on cable and not automatic adjustment then?? seing you have fitted new pads discs you have to bed them in abit.

Mine was poor after changing pads and disks but they have come back after a cple hundred miles and is spot on now..You need to look under your car get sum1 to pull up hand brake (obv chock wheels ) to see how much slacks in cable.

Also yes as soon as the lever is turned it pushes the piston out i hope this is some help to you

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