New Focus Owner - Couple Of Questions - Rattles And Checkstraps

[ST3CA]

Hey all.

Just bought myself a 06 Focus ST3. It's a really clean example with some fairly tasty work carried out under the bonnet.

Seeing as new owners syndrome has kicked in, I Just wanted to ask you a few things I've noticed.

Window drivers side sticks a bit as it comes out of the top and when it goes back in. Any remedy for that or is it common ?
Door check straps are a little on the light side for my liking. Is this something that will be fixed with new check straps ?

Other than this, no issues apart from a few rattles inside the cabin, coming from behind me over my right shoulder. It's like a ticking noise. Seller made me aware of this, he thought it was the boot lid and greased lock for me and tightened some bits here and there however it's still present on rough road. I'd say in about a month or so it's really going to !Removed! me off :)

Please give me some tips on bits i can check for common rattles.

Thanks.

[troy45]

For the sticky window you could try some vaseline or similar to try and lubricate the inner lip of the door glass seal at the top of the door where the glass mates to it in the fully up position and see if that helps.

The door check arms are all like that, not very positive for the intermediate positions of opening the door.

For the rattle at the back of the car it's possibly the spoiler vibrating where it touches the tailgate glass - mine used to do the same and I tried all sorts of things with the trim, tailgate latch etc but then it went away when I changed the spoiler. You could try loosening off the spoiler enough to put some thin foam or similar under it and see if that improves it.

[ST3CA]

For the sticky window you could try some vaseline or similar to try and lubricate the inner lip of the door glass seal at the top of the door where the glass mates to it in the fully up position and see if that helps.

The door check arms are all like that, not very positive for the intermediate positions of opening the door.

For the rattle at the back of the car it's possibly the spoiler vibrating where it touches the tailgate glass - mine used to do the same and I tried all sorts of things with the trim, tailgate latch etc but then it went away when I changed the spoiler. You could try loosening off the spoiler enough to put some thin foam or similar under it and see if that improves it.

Thanks pal. So you think new check straps wouldn't help at all then ?

Currently the doors will stop but they go past the first point far too easily for my liking on a slanted road and I can see a panel being dented somewhere on a windy day.

I'll have a look at the spoiler mate and see if that's the cause. It sounds too close to my shoulder to be the spoiler though so i'm suspicious it mate be something else.

Areas i'm thinking of is seatbelt height adjuster, parcel shelf or the boot trim / lock. But i'm not really sure.

I also have a grinding noise after starting the car at about 10 - 15mph - im told this is the ABS testing itself ?

[Invisible Man]

the 15mph noise is the ABS, mine sounds like a thud for a split second, sounds worse if you are turning a corner when it happens. Nothing to worry about

[ST3CA]

the 15mph noise is the ABS, mine sounds like a thud for a split second, sounds worse if you are turning a corner when it happens. Nothing to worry about

Thanks mate.

[Invisible Man]

Thanks mate.

No probs mate

[ST3CA]

So does anyone know if new check straps will help or will the new ones be more or less the same ? Thanks.

Also, I'm wondering what figures I'm running under the bonnet?

Work carried out - recently fitted new parts;
Airtec Intercooler
Collins Stage 2 Remap
RS Clutch
There's receipts for a fairly expensive hose (for the intercooler or something)
It's also had uprated polybushes ?? (or something if i remember correctly)

Timing belt done
Block mod done
oil Diaphragm uprated
just serviced.

Noticed also where the boot lid comes down on the sides of the boot, where it meets those block type stoppers, there is some rubbing going on ? Should i worry about this and grease it up or put some soft pads to prevent any more wear ?

[Dee_82]

Hi there, im new about these parts too an the rattle has been driving me mad!!

ive done some fairly extensive checks on the rattle over my right shoulder an there's two noises that I can make out, one coming from around the door speaker and the second tapping sound coming from around the back right side seat belt when I hit some bumps,

ive pulled all the panels off, fabric covers, taped of all the cables and insulated any connectors, tightened any bolts and even had someone lying in the boot and I think its the shock absorber. The top mount seems ok and the shocks work fine but the top plastic cover seems to be doing the works on the lower body of the shock absorber there's some visible evidence of it rubbing and taking a hammer to it seems make a similar sound, jumping up and down in the boot doesn't reproduce it which makes a bit of sense as its more lateral forces of the car moving side to side forward and back that does it, not going up and down, hopefully ill confirm it later this week..

anyhow from trawling the interweb it seems just about everyone has a different issue, good luck finding yours!

[ST3CA]

Hi there, im new about these parts too an the rattle has been driving me mad!!

ive done some fairly extensive checks on the rattle over my right shoulder an there's two noises that I can make out, one coming from around the door speaker and the second tapping sound coming from around the back right side seat belt when I hit some bumps,

ive pulled all the panels off, fabric covers, taped of all the cables and insulated any connectors, tightened any bolts and even had someone lying in the boot and I think its the shock absorber. The top mount seems ok and the shocks work fine but the top plastic cover seems to be doing the works on the lower body of the shock absorber there's some visible evidence of it rubbing and taking a hammer to it seems make a similar sound, jumping up and down in the boot doesn't reproduce it which makes a bit of sense as its more lateral forces of the car moving side to side forward and back that does it, not going up and down, hopefully ill confirm it later this week..

anyhow from trawling the interweb it seems just about everyone has a different issue, good luck finding yours!

Its still a step up from a Saxo :D

Ha Ha everything rattled in the Sax. If something didnt rattle there was something wrong.

[troy45]

So does anyone know if new check straps will help or will the new ones be more or less the same ? Thanks.

Also, I'm wondering what figures I'm running under the bonnet?

Work carried out - recently fitted new parts;

Airtec Intercooler

Collins Stage 2 Remap

RS Clutch

There's receipts for a fairly expensive hose (for the intercooler or something)

It's also had uprated polybushes ?? (or something if i remember correctly)

Timing belt done

Block mod done

Oil Diaphragm uprated

just serviced.

Noticed also where the boot lid comes down on the sides of the boot, where it meets those block type stoppers, there is some rubbing going on ? Should i worry about this and grease it up or put some soft pads to prevent any more wear ?

The Collins stage 2 is rated at 320bhp - that may depend though on if your car also has an aftermarket induction kit plus full exhaust upgrade ,as the map is also suitable for cars below this spec. Standard clutches don't always agree with running more powerful ecu maps and as it's a straight swap the RS clutch is the ideal fix for that.

The intercooler hose could be larger bore pipe which runs under the engine, or possibly the 'y' section outlet pipe from intercooler to the throttle body, you'd see this at the left hand side of the engine bay as you look into it with the bonnet open.

Diaphragm unit failure was pretty common on the pre-facelift ST's and most of these would have been replaced with the uprated unit Ford brought out to fix the issue - was fitted standard to the facelift cars onwards. Mine still failed but for a different problem than the earlier, common failure.

Polybushes are a common upgrade too, usually the large rear bushes on the front lower arms can get worn and hence the upgrade, but you can also get them for most of the rear suspension too. If you look through the front wheel you may be able to see the purple rubber edge of the front bushes. I've got them on mine, did a swap of LCA's with a lad putting an ST back to standard before selling it.

Lastly the tailgate should have some clear plastic pads on the bulges which contact the rubbers on the body but these are pretty poor at staying in place over time and move or fall off completely. Definitely worth putting something else in place there to protect the tailgate, there'll be lots of cars with these gone and a lot of owners won't even have noticed.

[ST3CA]

The Collins stage 2 is rated at 320bhp - that may depend though on if your car also has an aftermarket induction kit plus full exhaust upgrade ,as the map is also suitable for cars below this spec. Standard clutches don't always agree with running more powerful ecu maps and as it's a straight swap the RS clutch is the ideal fix for that.

The intercooler hose could be larger bore pipe which runs under the engine, or possibly the 'y' section outlet pipe from intercooler to the throttle body, you'd see this at the left hand side of the engine bay as you look into it with the bonnet open.

Diaphragm unit failure was pretty common on the pre-facelift ST's and most of these would have been replaced with the uprated unit Ford brought out to fix the issue - was fitted standard to the facelift cars onwards. Mine still failed but for a different problem than the earlier, common failure.

Polybushes are a common upgrade too, usually the large rear bushes on the front lower arms can get worn and hence the upgrade, but you can also get them for most of the rear suspension too. If you look through the front wheel you may be able to see the purple rubber edge of the front bushes. I've got them on mine, did a swap of LCA's with a lad putting an ST back to standard before selling it.

Lastly the tailgate should have some clear plastic pads on the bulges which contact the rubbers on the body but these are pretty poor at staying in place over time and move or fall off completely. Definitely worth putting something else in place there to protect the tailgate, there'll be lots of cars with these gone and a lot of owners won't even have noticed.

Thanks for all that mate. Yeah I've put some foam pads by the lock V shape.... seems to be a bit quieter but i might move the latch down as some people say thats helped make the boot shut tighter. :)

Love the car so far though. Feels really quick and a real grown up hatch.

How often would you guys say condition the leathers ? And what should i use ?

[troy45]

Another option to try if you think the tailgate is rattling on the latch, put a couple of turns of PVC tape around the striker bar where the latch mechanism locks round it.

It's a simple quick fix to try before moving the striker down, which can also make it harder to shut the tailgate, and in some cases you'll get the bottom edge of it kissing the top surface of the bumper as well putting even more pressure where the tailgate hits the rubbers you've just repaired.

Would still say it's worth checking the spoiler, everything I tried up to fitting the RS version didn't make a difference.

[ST3CA]

I've done that tonight and also done some around the parcel shelf poles to soften the fit. Seems to be ok now but I have a new rattle where my heat shield has dropped down. Mechanic says the screw just turns so can't tighten it up tight enough.

When I get tthat rattle sorted I'll be able to tell it the electricalttape fixes have worked.

Still got the clicking noise over right shoulder. It's very light but !Removed! annoying.

[troy45]

The usual problem with the heatshield, assuming it's the one above the backbox.....is that the heat shield itself usually fractures around one or more of the large nut/washers that fixes onto the body stud then drops down or vibrates, especially noticeable when you close a door or the tailgate.

Tightening it up won't work, usual fix would be to remove the nut and put a big washer or similar between the nut and heatshield so it holds the heatshield in place again. Hopefully you've got an aftermarket backbox as that makes access a lot easier, you'd maybe have to undo some of the mounts to drop it down a bit if the standard syatem is still fitted.

If you're really lucky it could just be the edges of the different sections rattling against each other but with cars a few years old my money's on the heatshield having broken. Got a photo somewhere off one of my ST's I think but can't find it right now.

[troy45]

Found the photo now

[ST3CA]

Found the photo now

Thanks mate... I don't know whether my mate said anything about the H/S cracking or splitting around the nut. But then again you may be right. All he basically said was that the actual thread is probably worn because you cant get the nut to properly tighten it just goes tight then immediately loose.

Its got the standard exhaust system on - I MAY get an aftermarket one fitted, but only when this standard one gives up the ghost. The rattle occurs just in front of the back wheel ( passenger side ) that's where we were lying down when we looked at it.

What I was thinking was would it be possible to get a larger nut/ washer and almost - re-tap the hole ?

It's a small problem but it don't half create an annoying cackle at the back.

In other news - The boot seems a bit quieter but can't really tell until the heat shield issue is fixed.

[troy45]

It's probably hard to spot if the heatshield has fractured, especially as you've got the standard backbox and your mechanic mate wasn't aware of what to look for. Off the top of my head you'd have to try and release the backbox rubbers (or unbolt the hangers) plus those on the mid section and then the downpipe flex-joint may let you lower the system down for a better look.

If you do drop the system down I'd definitely support it before releasing the rubbers then drop it down a bit and support it again etc. The rear box is rather heavy and you need to be careful you don't put too much strain on the downpipe flexi-joint. Course you could unbolt the rear from the tail end of the cat, that would help give you room to work with. Just 2 nuts on the cat, and it should have a metal gasket if original so you can re-use that no problem.

The heatshield is secured to a metal stud welded to the underbody with rather cheap nuts which are basically stamped out of thin sheet with a nut shape formed into a larger washer, as in photo below.

Nothing like a proper nut & stud arrangement, nice and cheap but not very durable, they get pretty corroded under there too - I'd expect the minimal thread on the nut has stripped when it's been tightened too much, the stud also has a pretty coarse thread so you'll not get a proper nut to screw onto it either. I'd say try a nice piece of metal sheet/heatshield formed to go over the fractured heatshield (or big washer) then a new nut and see how that goes. May have broken in more than 1 place.

[ST3CA]

It's probably hard to spot if the heatshield has fractured, especially as you've got the standard backbox and your mechanic mate wasn't aware of what to look for. Off the top of my head you'd have to try and release the backbox rubbers (or unbolt the hangers) plus those on the mid section and then the downpipe flex-joint may let you lower the system down for a better look.

If you do drop the system down I'd definitely support it before releasing the rubbers then drop it down a bit and support it again etc. The rear box is rather heavy and you need to be careful you don't put too much strain on the downpipe flexi-joint. Course you could unbolt the rear from the tail end of the cat, that would help give you room to work with. Just 2 nuts on the cat, and it should have a metal gasket if original so you can re-use that no problem.

The heatshield is secured to a metal stud welded to the underbody with rather cheap nuts which are basically stamped out of thin sheet with a nut shape formed into a larger washer, as in photo below.

Nothing like a proper nut & stud arrangement, nice and cheap but not very durable, they get pretty corroded under there too - I'd expect the minimal thread on the nut has stripped when it's been tightened too much, the stud also has a pretty coarse thread so you'll not get a proper nut to screw onto it either. I'd say try a nice piece of metal sheet/heatshield formed to go over the fractured heatshield (or big washer) then a new nut and see how that goes. May have broken in more than 1 place.

Cheers mate, Ill defo look into this.

Apparently seller says before I bought it he had standard zorst properly re-fitted (as his piper was brand new and he wanted the money off it) and i was quite happy to have standard system.

So he said i should be able to nip it back down the the zorst man who sorted it and get him to fix the heat shield for nothing.