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supercmaxer

Boost Gauge.

30 posts in this topic

Thanks. Took the best part of 5 hours just to get the hose in through the firewall. What a pain.

Just one thing the needle fluctuates a bit, any ideas on how to stop this ?

Thanks.

If the needle fluctuates at a low froquency (slowly) it is probably the gauge showing you how much boost is getting to the (inlet) manifold

If it is fluctuating or "fluttering" at a high frequency (quickly) or the needle "jumping about" it cold be the pick - up point is too close to the turbine (so you are seeing the changes of the boost being controlled which does not represent the actual boost that arrives at the (inlet) manifold), or too close to the inlet manifold (so you see individual cylinder pressures/ pressure "waves" - you could change the position of the pick-up-point to the outlet of the intercooler, or fit an in-line fuel filter (for a petrol car/ lawnmower/ with fittings that fit the gauge pipe ) in-line with your gauge, its the extra volume that will take the "flutter" out,(giving you more of an "avarage" reading) not the filter element

fuel filter for boost gauge -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LARGE-INLINE-FUEL-FILTER-UNIVERSAL-FIT-6MM-AND-8MM-PIPES-/320891966557?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab6a6d45d

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cant stop the needle fluctuation mate,

This is the beauty of a variable vain turbo, part of the whole economical driving and increasing MPG came the variable vain turbo,

Its purpose is to assist the engine in achieving a speed then slowly die off as the engine reaches expected potential naturally,

The car try's to act like a naturally aspirated engine as much as possible to save fuel,

One advantage I've found with using the boost gauge:

It can help you drive more economically if you change gears as the boost begins to rise over 10-15

Psi

Because the higher the boost, the higher the fuel consumption.

Managed to sort it. Found out the pipe was bent over causing it to fluctuate managed to fit a piece in to stop the fluctuating.

Lenny likes this

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If the needle fluctuates at a low froquency (slowly) it is probably the gauge showing you how much boost is getting to the (inlet) manifold

If it is fluctuating or "fluttering" at a high frequency (quickly) or the needle "jumping about" it cold be the pick - up point is too close to the turbine (so you are seeing the changes of the boost being controlled which does not represent the actual boost that arrives at the (inlet) manifold), or too close to the inlet manifold (so you see individual cylinder pressures/ pressure "waves" - you could change the position of the pick-up-point to the outlet of the intercooler, or fit an in-line fuel filter (for a petrol car/ lawnmower/ with fittings that fit the gauge pipe ) in-line with your gauge, its the extra volume that will take the "flutter" out,(giving you more of an "avarage" reading) not the filter element

fuel filter for boost gauge -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LARGE-INLINE-FUEL-FILTER-UNIVERSAL-FIT-6MM-AND-8MM-PIPES-/320891966557?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab6a6d45d

Fixed the fluctuating it was a bent pipe. The engine cover was leaning on the pipe.

Just one thing now, as it's a diesel am I meant to get vacuum or not?

On a good note I am getting about 18psi. Good or bad I'm not sure lol.

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Fixed the fluctuating it was a bent pipe. The engine cover was leaning on the pipe.

Just one thing now, as it's a diesel am I meant to get vacuum or not?

On a good note I am getting about 18psi. Good or bad I'm not sure lol.

You might get vacuum at low revs before the turbo produces boost, the engine can act as a NA (naturrally asperated) engine before the boost "kicks in" or the boost threshhold is reached or when you ist open the throttle/ accelerate - it depends how the engine is set up, if its a VNT, etc etc -

if you modify your car, you can often see the effect of the mods- i get hardly any vacuum now, the boost if almost instant

whatever it shows may be perfectly normal/ nothing to worry about and may just be the engine/turbo doing its job correctly

in stock form i only get as low as about 15psi with the boost controllers off and i run 22-24psi - the reading may be different depending where you put the pick-up point, as the pressure varies along the length of the boost hoses, and you get a pressure drop across the intercooler

the gauge may not be 100% accurate anyway - 18psi is ok (seems a little low for a modern diesel, but ok) - see if you ca look up what it should be on your engine, and if you have an overboost facility and if so, see if you can get it kicking in.

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You might get vacuum at low revs before the turbo produces boost, the engine can act as a NA (naturrally asperated) engine before the boost "kicks in" or the boost threshhold is reached or when you ist open the throttle/ accelerate - it depends how the engine is set up, if its a VNT, etc etc -

if you modify your car, you can often see the effect of the mods- i get hardly any vacuum now, the boost if almost instant

whatever it shows may be perfectly normal/ nothing to worry about and may just be the engine/turbo doing its job correctly

in stock form i only get as low as about 15psi with the boost controllers off and i run 22-24psi - the reading may be different depending where you put the pick-up point, as the pressure varies along the length of the boost hoses, and you get a pressure drop across the intercooler

the gauge may not be 100% accurate anyway - 18psi is ok (seems a little low for a modern diesel, but ok) - see if you ca look up what it should be on your engine, and if you have an overboost facility and if so, see if you can get it kicking in.

I did think about the gauge not be accurate. Would the psi depend on the mileage as mine has done 170k?

Over boost lol. You have lost me now.

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