Hassen Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Hi. My car is already wired up with one 4 channel amplifier that currently is powering a pair of coaxial Speakers up front and a subwoofer(bridged mode). Current installed components:1. Blaupunkt GTA470 - 70W rms x 4 channels 2. JL Audio 10W0v304 - 10 inch subwoofer rated 300W rms 3. Vibe Slick 6 pair of coaxial Speakers front I am planning to install the following: 1. JL Audio JX250/1Monoblock Amp - for powering the subwoofer 2. Focal 165KR rated at 80W rms - component Speakers to be fitted in front and to be powered by the Blaupunkt GTA470 3. Relocate the Vibe Slick 6 speakers to the rear doors - to be powered by the Blaupunkt GTA470 as well What I was thinking of doing?1. Buy a wiring kit 2. Use a distribution block to get 2 power wires from the one that is powering the Blaupunkt amp currently 3. Use a remote cable and run it from the Blaupunkt amp to the JL audio amp to turn on both amps 4. Use another ground wire attached to a different part of the car for the JL audio amp Questions: 1. Do I really need a distribution block and if not, how do I make the 1 power wire into 2? I can solder at a decent level if it is required. 2. Any flaws or suggestions to my above plan? The reason why I am asking is because I had planned to get someone to fit all these as I am not the greatest with electrical wiring. I am utterly frustrated with customer service here. I have been trying to get in touch with the people that fitted my double din stereo the last time and after being given the run around for way to long, I gave up and decided to attempt to do it myself. I have sadly very little time and that's one of the main reasons why I wanted to get a professional to get it right the first time. Any help would be greatly appreciated :)Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 What size of wiring are you using? If the terminals are big enough to fit 2 cables into then you could try that if not I would go with the splitter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 I think the wire used was 8 gauge. Not 100% sure but can check it out tomorrow. Sorry but I didn't understand the bit about the terminal. Which one are you referring to Stef123? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 I think the wire used was 8 gauge. Not 100% sure but can check it out tomorrow. Sorry but I didn't understand the bit about the terminal. Which one are you referring to Stef123? Thanks What I mean is put your feed into your first amp and from that same terminal take a link to your next one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 the only thing you have to firstly be worried about and secondly take in to consideration is Current and noise, physically you can do almost whatever you want with electricity, though it might be worth using an inline fuse for each amp if it doesn't have a built in one, but splitting it out is fine, assuming you don't draw too much current off the wire, if they dont take on more then 50A total you'll be fine, if there is spare space on the terminal of the first amp then just run it off the back of that, splitting it out in a block is only a 5 min job an nothing to be worried about. Noise however is a little more tricky to deal with an depends on your gear, if the supply is already dirty or made dirty by the first amp then you might get some "hum" on the Speakers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salsheikh Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 i'd use a thicker cable and use a distribution block so that you can get 2 fees from it safely. you need to have a decent cable so that the current drawn doesnt melt the cable! i need to install 0AWG cable into my car and replace the thin 10AWG currently used to that i can run a bigger and better amp/s! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 i wish they would stop using the horrible braid like cable with an AWG size and use something with a mm² size.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Thanks for the information. Really useful. I think for safety purposes I will firstly check the size of the power wire, then use a distribution block to the 2 amplifiers. Plan on running the remote cable from one amp to the other. From my little bit of research, it should be ok as the 2 amps would turn on then. There is already an inline fuse in the current power wire and both amps have fuses as well built in them. Sal, I agree with you that it might be better to upgrade the power wire if it's too small. I really don't want them to melt. Don't think the two amps together take more than 50A. Going to a shop in Dublin on Saturday so that they can give me a quote for the install. If it's an exhorbitant amount of money for the install, I will buy the wiring kit and a distribution block from them on the day and attempt to get the job done myself. I have most of the tools required and just hope that it's sunny the next couple of days so I can work on the car :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Checked the current power wire in the car and it's a 10AWG one. New plan:Saturday: Buy a wiring kit from Halfords. Sunday: 1. Power the subwoofer amp from the battery-new connection. Checked the battery and hopefully should not be too hard as I can see where the current wire is going through the firewall from the engine bay. Wire it all up to the subwoofer along with the remote wire as planned. 2. Take out the front Speakers. 3. Wire up the Focal 165KR and set them up in the front. Any thoughts about how to put the tweeters in the current location of the stock tweeters? 4. Put Silent Coat sound deadener in the rear doors. Only got 12 sheets left! 5.Cannibalise the rear stock Speakers and use the frame only to mount the Vibe Slick 6 there. 6. Hopefully have this all done in 1/2 day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salsheikh Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Use duct tape to attach new cable to old and pull it through firewall. I used the old speaker mounts too when i mounted my Speakers. Saved me a few bob! Sent from my GT-N8010 using Ford OC mobile app 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Sal, the current speaker mounts were perfect for the front Speakers. It's not like I was going to be saving an expensive speaker(stock one). The cone was made out of paper I think and the magnet was tiny. It was binned straight away. So, I think I have all my required pieces to complete this project as I got the Vibe wiring kit with 4AWG wiring and nice wires for the Speakers. http://www.halfords.ie/sat-nav-audio/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/vibe-slick-4-gauge-amplifier-wiring-kit Questions:1. How do I take out the cover that is over the tweeters in the door sail? 2. How do I take out the current tweeters in the door sail? 3..Do I cut the wires off after taking them so the headunit isn't sending a signal to them anymore? 4. Would that cause any problems? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salsheikh Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hassen You might find the info you need on the talk audio forum as someone upgraded the Speakers on their focus. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Ford OC mobile app 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 This is the planned wiring diagram with my basic Paint skills. Anything I got wrong there? Suggestions and advice welcomed as usual :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Key C.O: Cross over T: Tweeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Thanks Sal. Gonna have a look there and see :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Thanks for the help guys. 2/3 of the way of wiring it all up like the diagram. If you wanna follow the progress, check out http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/52338-2014-upgrades/page-3#entry388450 Cheers :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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