Removing Trim To Get To Rear Seatbelt ( Mk2 St3 )

[ST3CA]

In continuation of my previous thread, I think I've located where my rattles are coming from.

1 was a heatshield underneath which is getting sorted soon and the other ( a distinct ticking over my right shoulder on rough ground ) is still driving me mad.
However, I had my GF sit in the back and she thinks it's coming from the rear seatbelt area, where it slips in.

She said it's around there somewhere, like a light rattle/tick.

So my questions is, what's the best way to approach this and get the rear sestbelt panel off.... I'd rather take as least off as possible to see if the noise is indeed coming from there.

[troy45]

Good progress getting the heatshield looked at :)

Is your car a 3-dr or 5-dr?

I've had the trim off that covers the rear seatbelt on mine, which is a 3-dr.

Trying to remember now, you need to do most of the work in the boot.

Parcel shelf needs to come out. If we're still talking 3-dr the rear seats need folding forwards too.

Remove 2 Torx 25 screws, one at the back near the boot light, the other is further inwards towards the back of the rear seats.

Remove the boot light and disconnect the bulb holder from the lens - comes out if you push the lens backwards then pull the front edge downwards.

The panel then needs pulling away from the body, gets bit tricky now - there's clips going inwards to the tailgate aperture panel by where you took a screw out, the next bit near the fabric lined trim panel running down the pillar from the headliner. This clips into the body with a very strong clip so don't be surprised if it pulls the panel off the clip instead or causes the locator doghouse section of the trim panel to crack or break :( It also clips downwards into the back seats trim side panel, or the one running up the 5-dr rear door aperture (I expect).

Think that covers most of it, to fully remove the panel you'd need to unbolt the rear seatbelt where it anchors to the floor under the passenger seats, if you're just looking about you can slide the panel along the seatbelt and leave it loose in the boot to give you room to access the retractor area.

Hope that helps, have you tried doing anything with the spoiler yet? it's not a million miles away from the rear seatbelt retractor ;)

[ST3CA]

Thanks Troy. Very helpful and thorough ( not for the first time ).

Yeah it's an ST3 3 Door.

It's a weird one, if im driving i'd swear it was coming from where the drivers seatbelt recess. As it's very apparent by my right ear. But she thinks it was coming from the rear seatbelt area.

As for the spoiler, i've given it a good wiggle and it feels solid as a rock, no movement nor creaks.

As for rattle limitation i've put some small square foam pads on the edges of the V shape boot lock with 2 bits of electrical tape round the latch on boot floor.
I've also put some small pads behind the rear window trim, so when i push that it doesn't move now, as the pads are creating a cushion.
Finally i put some pads on the boot hatch sides, where it meets the rubber stoppers.. ( in the hope to prevent any more rubbing ).

I can't hear any rattle from the boot or anything any more. I just have the heatshield and the noise to my right.
In some ways this noise is more annoying than the !Removed! heatshield as it's more or less constant.


Shame really because the car is dead silent apart from these two irritants.

[troy45]

Hunting down noises is a real nuisance I know - I had a noise from the rear when I got the car and still not sure what I did that fixed it

Then for years I got a little creak/rattle from what I thought was the drivers sunglasses holder - always thought it was my glasses rattling in there, eventually took them out and the noise was still there though i'm sure I tried this before and it went away....finally realised it was coming from the door panel itself and found it was actually the connector for the drivers switchpack being able to vibrate slightly even when fully connected. Yet another job fixed by my vast selection of sticky-backed foam.

My RS spoiler came with small pads fitted where it sits against the rear windscreen, one of these has worked it's way out now so there is some movement going on there, just can't remember if the ST version had them as well. One of my annoying noises definitely went away after I changed the spoiler and that was on rhs too.

Worst case if you can't sort it, wind up the radio or use more of the loud pedal :)

[ST3CA]

You'll love this mate...

Soo, I'm locking car yesterday and I gave the spoiler one little nudge just to double check... Low and behold, the creaking noise!

What do you suggest I do to sort that ? Is there any nuts I can tighten.

[troy45]

Well that's saved you the bother of dismantling the boot trim and breaking a few clips for no benefit :)

Think there's either 4 or 5 bolts for the spoiler. You can see 2 of them in the upper corners of the tailgate when it's open. The rest are behind the upper trim panel, which just pulls off with a few clips.

I'd suggest getting hold of some fairly high density but fairly thin foam, say 3mm thick. Then loosen the rear corner bolt on the noisy side a couple of turns to see if it gives you enough slack to put the foam between the spoiler and where it sits against the back glass in the top right hand corner - maybe 2 pieces a couple of inches apart. Got loads of suitable stuff here but that's not really much use to you I know

If the corner bolt alone doesn't loosen the spoiler enough then try the inner bolts. The spoiler also has 2 small plastic clips which clip into the tailgate behind the trim panel, you may need to squeeze this together to disengage it and let the spoiler lift up a bit. You just need to give the spoiler a bit of a thump to make the clip engage again. I tend to put a bit of grease on clips like that to help them refit easier.

Try that and see how it goes.

[Stoney871]

There should be a metal clip at either end of the spoiler which holda it to the hatch trim.

Are yours still in place?

If yes then try taking them off and bending them slightly to tighten them up.

If no then soyrce some from Ford.

I'll look up the part number if you need it and post up a pic of what I mean when I get home.

Sent from my S5

[troy45]

Ah I forgot about those clips, mine had them fitted but still rattled - I think I carried them over to the RS spoiler but can't remember how tight a fit they were.

Don't they clip the spoiler to the edge of the rear glass? pretty sure that's where they go, can get a photo of similar if they're still fitted to my spoiler

[Stoney871]

You are correct.

They go to the glass.

If you still have the clips then try removing them, putting some padding underneath then re-clipping.

Sent from my S5

[ST3CA]

I've had a little look without taking anything apart yet. it's the right side of the spoiler.... It basically creaks as it rubs on the glass.

I rekon if I loosen a nut I might be able to get a tiny felt pad under there.

[Lenny]

I've had a little look without taking anything apart yet. it's the right side of the spoiler.... It basically creaks as it rubs on the glass.

I rekon if I loosen a nut I might be able to get a tiny felt pad under there.

a common problem with the mk2 and mk2.5 is a leaking boot,

Caused by deterioration of tge seals surrounding the bolts in the rear spoiler,

Reason im telling you this is because it may be a good preventative maintanance job to remove the spoiler and apply clear silicone around the exterior bolt holes prior to refitting all together, guaranteed never to leak then or rattle.

To gain access to the rear seat belt area you need to fold forward the rear seat and remove the screws from the side boot panel,

see my guide on additional boot light shows how to access the area:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/27165-guide-to-fitting-additional-boot-light-in-ford-focus-mk2-and-mk25/?pid=146083#entry146083

Sounds like it could be the top suspension strut mount rattle though.

The focus has a Euro 5 safety rating highest standard in its class, id be very surprised if the seat belt had rattled lose to be honest.

[Lenny]

Ah I forgot about those clips, mine had them fitted but still rattled - I think I carried them over to the RS spoiler but can't remember how tight a fit they were.

Don't they clip the spoiler to the edge of the rear glass? pretty sure that's where they go, can get a photo of similar if they're still fitted to my spoiler

heres a few pictures of those clips:

[troy45]

Not really certain of the purpose of those clips - was told most people don't bother with them when fitting the RS spoiler but I played safe anyhow.

Know when the rear spoiler was introduced on the Freelander they added similar 'anti vandal' clips, these were to help discourage people from trying to pull the spoiler off but this was more bonded than bolted on.

[Stoney871]

The clips are sprung to reduce vibration and corner lift off at speed.

The shape at the end of the spoiler is like a wing so air flowing over/under it causes lift and downforce at varying speeds.

Sent from my S5

[ST3CA]

I've loosened corner bolts and lifted spoiler up. Put some 5mm felt pads where it touches the glass. Seems quieter back there and spoiler doesn't rub any more but I still have this right ear level light tick /creak over rough ish surface . Going insane.

[troy45]

Would you say it maybe sounds like it's coming from the sunglasses holder?

I had similar for years but eventually realised it was coming lower down in the actual drives door. Had dreaded having to take the doorpad off etc, but seeing a how-to on here realised you can quite easily get the lower trim off below where the switchpack is - just see first couple of photos here

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/46244-guide-fitting-ford-projector-puddle-lights-mk2-mk25-focus-05-12-front-doors/

Did just that and found that the wiring connector could rattle about in the switchpack even when fully clipped into place. Wrapped some foam around this and put the trim back on and it's been nice and quiet ever since :)

[ST3CA]

Also, trawling the net a bit today and I found someone who has this exact problem like me.

(The rattle ) Someone described it the best way possible, " A LITTLE BIT LIKE A GEIGER COUNTER TICKING " I was like " YES " ! that's the noise i have, over my right shoulder from the side or back somewhere.

So it's clear that;

It's not my boot as I've used some felt pads and taped lock latch and also felt padded plastic boot trim around window.
Not my spoiler, loosened nuts, felt padded under the bit where it meets window and re tightened.
Misses reckons it was coming from back seat belt area, but I hear it prominently from my right lug whilst driving over rough surface. It's like a gierger counter but slightly more plasticy rattling sound to it.

PLEASE HELP ME OR IM GOING TO DRIVE MY ST OFF A CLIFF WITH ME STILL IN IT ! :D

[ST3CA]

Would you say it maybe sounds like it's coming from the sunglasses holder?

I had similar for years but eventually realised it was coming lower down in the actual drives door. Had dreaded having to take the doorpad off etc, but seeing a how-to on here realised you can quite easily get the lower trim off below where the switchpack is - just see first couple of photos here

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/46244-guide-fitting-ford-projector-puddle-lights-mk2-mk25-focus-05-12-front-doors/

Did just that and found that the wiring connector could rattle about in the switchpack even when fully clipped into place. Wrapped some foam around this and put the trim back on and it's been nice and quiet ever since :)

If i was to say myself whilst driving, i'd say it sounds like a loose nut rattling in it's place coming from the Drivers seat belt pillar. However the misses was adamant that it was coming from the back somewhere.

As i say above, it's like a ticky gieger counter type noise.

Im driving to the shops now so ill record and upload when back :D

https://soundcloud.com/true-illusion/car-noise/s-qJJ1K

[ST3CA]

https://soundcloud.com/true-illusion/car-noise/s-qJJ1K

[troy45]

Can hear the noise there, it's more distinct than the one I had from the door. You may need to get the b-pillar trim off to have a look around the seat belt retractor etc, maybe also try some pvc tape on the striker bar for the drivers door just to eliminate if it's something there causing it.

If you get the trim off and can't find anything, try putting a block of foam or something in there to see if it at least reduces the noise and gives you a clue if you're in the right area at least.

[ST3CA]

Would you say it maybe sounds like it's coming from the sunglasses holder?

I had similar for years but eventually realised it was coming lower down in the actual drives door. Had dreaded having to take the doorpad off etc, but seeing a how-to on here realised you can quite easily get the lower trim off below where the switchpack is - just see first couple of photos here

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/46244-guide-fitting-ford-projector-puddle-lights-mk2-mk25-focus-05-12-front-doors/

Did just that and found that the wiring connector could rattle about in the switchpack even when fully clipped into place. Wrapped some foam around this and put the trim back on and it's been nice and quiet ever since :)

Can the B pillar trim be taken off without setting an airbag off ?

I'm new to this car you see and 9/10 time i'd go messing and not worry too much , but i don't know how sensitive this car is haha.

I've found this.......

Should a customer express concern that there is ticking noise from

the B-pillar, in the area of the opening for the front safety belt,

when driving / cornering on rough roads, the probable cause is the

sheet metal sticking between the B-pillar panel spot welding points.

The noise is generated by the sheet metal breaking away from the spot

welds between the panel.

In general this noise can only be heard/recognised on the driver or the passenger side.

To rectify this concern, the dip-primer between the B-pillar spot

panel welding points should be "cracked" with the use of the weaker

plastic side of the wheel brace (part of the vehicle tools). To prevent

further sticking of the sheet metals between the B-pillar panel spot

welding points, multi-function spray should be applied to the reworked

areas.

CAUTION: Make sure that only the weaker plastic side of the wheel

brace is used. The use of any metal object may cause damage to the

paint surface (especially when slipping down).

What you think to that ? Is it my issue ?

[troy45]

Think I've seen that before when I had an etis dvd - slightly worrying when they say the cause is the sheet metal breaking away from the spot welds :o

Without seeing what the panels look like with the trim removed it's hard to say how easy it is to identify where to do the fix they recommend - be helpful if you're able to find some photos or a youtube video.

Maybe try stuffing a rag into the opening on the seatbelt opening and see if it reduces the noise, would give you an idea if that's where it's coming from. If you do need to get the panel off, it won't be connected to the airbag - has the Focus got airbags in the pillars? any curtain type airbags will be mounted much higher up, running along the edge of the roof panel/bodyside.