Mpg Mk3 Tddi

[matto2494]

Hello

Can anyone tell me what kind of mileage they get on a full tank of diesel? im currently getting around 500 which i thought was a little low.

I have clean and blocked off the egr and cleaned the inlet manifold out when i purchased the car.

I do a 80 mile run to work and back everyday on the motorway so would think the MPG would b better.

any help would be great.

[jeebowhite]

cant help on an o2, but on my MK4 (57) I have 114 on the clock and got 780 miles out of a tank.

[matto2494]

:(

[matto2494]

How many litres is a tank on yours

[jeebowhite]

70 litres I believe. £90 topup from almost empty to 3 clicks at the top.

[matto2494]

Ok so looking on the specs my car has a 56 litre tank. I'm guess 6 litres of that is reserve so I averaged it to 50 with an average of 500 miles a tank, that would equate to 45 mpg. Does that sound about right?

[jeebowhite]

there or there abouts it sounds about right, but I havent got a calculator in front of me :P

[Steve Jarvis]

Hi Matto

Just done some calcs and the book tells us that we have a 55 litre tank (with probably a bit more in reserve as you say). This works out to 12 uk gallons.

500 miles is only 41.5 mpg.

I am doing a 68 mile round trip to work and back 5 days a week on A roads and have managed to get 54 mpg. (55 plate 2ltr 130 tdci) Admittedly I can't usually get

above 65-70 mph due to the road and following miss daisy's on a daily basis but have managed to drive the car in a way that doesn't get me above 3k revs

and still keep up comfortably with the odd Beamer or Merc.

It may well be that being on the motorway isn't helping. I can get mine on a run sitting at 75 and hitting 2k revs and still get a decent return in the low 50's.

When I purchased the car in January, the trip computer told me that it was running at 42 mpg. I never trust those things, they are not accurate. The best way

to suss out your mpg is a simple pump to pump exercise. Dare to run it as low on fuel as possible, well into the fuel light zone before working it out.

It has taken me 6 months to get into the low to mid 50's mpg.

There is something else to consider, is there a small leak in any of the fuels lines, dodgy hose clip?

Good luck!

[matto2494]

Is yours a tdci I think they stopped production tddi in 02, also have you got a 5 or 6 speed box?

If I had a leak I would see evidence of this either through smell or from sight?? Not sure

[Steve Jarvis]

6 speed. Misread your original post fella about the tddi, sorry. This might explain the differences.

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[matto2494]

That explains it lol. I thought my car was screwed haha

[Steve Jarvis]

You could always rip out the interior and save some weight, that will make the mpg seem a bit healthier

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[FOCA]

Generally the TDDI gets a little less MPG than the TDDI, but of course the reliability/ toughness makes up for this

The estate is also a bit heavier than the saloon/ hatch so the MPG tends to be a bit lower

Driving style and conditions come into it but 40MPG or a little over is more or less what most people get, because diesel is so expensive and the price continually goes up over a long period it tends to focus your attention on your MPG - when i 1st started driving you got a lot more for your tenner

If you are driving round town or very hard, it can drop to 35MPG, on a long, clear run you might get 45-50MPG

41.5MPG is ok for a TDDI estate

If you pump your tyres up hard (i use 38PSI front, 40 rear) keep the weight down in the car and don't "boot" it in the lower gears (off the line, 1st,2nd, round town) that will make a difference a remap can give you a lot more power and a bit more MPG

205/55/16 tyres/ wheels are lighter and less drag - the official MPG has 2 sets of figures, one for each car with bigger, wider wheels, and another, lower one with 16s, i also drive a tit-x 2.2 (same as an ST-TDCI) and there is not much difference in handling (only on the absolute limit, and the smaller tyres are more progessive) the tit-x has lowering springs - the heavily modified 2.0L TDDI is faster than the mildly modified 2.2

The TDDI can run on veg oil, i now run 50-50 diesel/ veg oil in the summer, (in colder weather i use straight diesel) i pay 99p a litre,(for unused, clean, pure veg oil) this has been legal in the UK since 2007 (in fact pump diesel contains 5 -7 % veg oil (or "bio diesel"), regular deisel is made up mostly from fossil fuels, that is finite (will run out) and making it (especially if its BP ) is very bad for the enviroment, veg oil is made plants that grow in the sun, so indirectly, by using it you are making your car solar powered

With the diesel at £1.40 and the veg oil at 99p, at 50-50, its like getting your fuel at £1,20 a litre, this adds up (especially if you are doing a high milage) + you are helping to save the planet as well

[Steve Jarvis]

Loving the veggie oil link. So what are you saying here, go to a wholesaler and buy a shed load of vegetable oil and mix it. I've heard of people running there old Di diesels on chip fat but I thought the oil needed additional preheating? Are there mods required on the car prior to using the oil?

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[FOCA]

Loving the veggie oil link. So what are you saying here, go to a wholesaler and buy a shed load of vegetable oil and mix it. I've heard of people running there old Di diesels on chip fat but I thought the oil needed additional preheating? Are there mods required on the car prior to using the oil?

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the larger the percentage of veg oil, and the lower the temp, the thicker the solution becomes, you are already running between 5 to 7 percent (that is what is added to modern pump diesel to help replace the lubrication properties of old, high-sulphor diesel)- in warm weather at a realatively high diesel content (eg 50/50) you can put the veg oil straight in the tank with some cars

with heaters/ a twin tank or other methods you can run a higher veg oil percentage and/or at a lower temperature

ive experimented with different percentages and found that 60 % diesel/ 40% veg oil stays liquid at fairly low temps, under 4 degrees c, i would use straight diesel, though

The delphi injectors on the TDCI are realatively fragile and can be "fussy" about fuel, they were designed for high-sulphor pre 2006 pump-fuel (that was good for lubricating the injectors but bad for the enviroment) The TDDIs pump and injectors are tough, the injectors are simple, mechanical ones, they are made by Bosch, thats one of the reasons i run a TDDI the decat, total EGR delete and straight- through exhaust (and fixed vane turbo - no VNT vanes to coke up) all help too

ive been using veg oil for years and know what i am doing but i have been caught out before with a sudden drop in temperature so be careful

[Simon whirlwind]

I have a 54 plate TDCI (130bhp). I generally get just over 500 miles with a mixture of motorways and town driving. I thought that was quite good. When I get some spare dosh I will get the car re-mapped (about £170), which will give me more power, response and miles per gallon I believe ???

My car runs very well as it is even though it has now done 134,000 miles, but I reckon it may be worth re-mapping.

I do have the dreaded plashing glow plug light and limp mode now, but will sort that out I hope over the next couple of days ??

[Steve Jarvis]

Hi Simon

Pretty good figures. Just highlights what a damn good car ford produced! I'm nervous that mine could start the dreaded limp mode soon. It's happened a couple of times but I am putting that down to a heavy boot on a cold morning as when I pulled over to stop the engine and restart, the problem cleared and I continued on my merry way with a little less lead in my right boot! Does yours do it a lot?

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[Simon whirlwind]

Hi Steve,

my car has just started messing me around now (135,000 miles), not from bad driving I might add.

I have had a broken pipe going from the turbo to the EGR valve for some time, and was meaning to get it sorted. I kept on smelling fumes inside the car. Anyway I will get that sorted tomorrow and go from there. I got one of those F-Super code readers yesterday to get the fault code, but can't get it working. I went to the local garage and the fault code was P2263 (boost issues). I thought the EGR problem may be a good place to start, especially as I already had the replacement pipe. I will be really !Removed! if this problem doesn't go away, as I am not the richest of people at the moment. If that doesn't work I will have a look to see if there is a leaky turbo pipe, as this is quite a regular problem with Mondeo's. It's not lacking power at all (out of limp mode), so we will see?

[Steve Jarvis]

I think I'm right in saying that an egr blanking plate would help. I have just bought one of eBay for £3.50 and if you read the many helpful tips that people have left on here about them, it's the cheapest and most effective way of reducing smoke, premature failings of the turbo etc. Clean all of your pipes out prior to fitting but this will help. The only draw back is the the eml will come on between 50 & 100 miles after fitting. This is normal and will have no ill effects on the engine.

Is the car jumping into limp mode when cold, heavy acceleration??

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[FOCA]

Hi Steve,

my car has just started messing me around now (135,000 miles), not from bad driving I might add.

I have had a broken pipe going from the turbo to the EGR valve for some time, and was meaning to get it sorted. I kept on smelling fumes inside the car. Anyway I will get that sorted tomorrow and go from there. I got one of those F-Super code readers yesterday to get the fault code, but can't get it working. I went to the local garage and the fault code was P2263 (boost issues). I thought the EGR problem may be a good place to start, especially as I already had the replacement pipe. I will be really !Removed! if this problem doesn't go away, as I am not the richest of people at the moment. If that doesn't work I will have a look to see if there is a leaky turbo pipe, as this is quite a regular problem with Mondeo's. It's not lacking power at all (out of limp mode), so we will see?

The VNT mech can get coked up and start sticking, this can affect boost (too little= lots of lag and low power or, - too much = car runs ok but when you boot it/ go uphill it drops into limp mode )

The ECU (via the MAP sensor) detects the exessive boost and drops into limp mode to protect the engine

if this is the issue repairing/ blanking the EGR will not help

The actuator may be pnumatic or electronic

[FOCA]

I think I'm right in saying that an egr blanking plate would help. I have just bought one of eBay for £3.50 and if you read the many helpful tips that people have left on here about them, it's the cheapest and most effective way of reducing smoke, premature failings of the turbo etc. Clean all of your pipes out prior to fitting but this will help. The only draw back is the the eml will come on between 50 & 100 miles after fitting. This is normal and will have no ill effects on the engine.

Is the car jumping into limp mode when cold, heavy acceleration??

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The main reasons for fitting a solid blanking plate is to stop the inlet manifold being contanminated with (and filling up with) carbon, and to increase performance/ economy, and to eliminate flat spots/ hesitation & improve throttle response, , exessive smoke can cause premature failure of the turbo (VNT cokeing up, sticking) + a solid plate can reduce smoke, but how significant this is to the lifespan of the turbo is difficult to say - i suppose it must help

A solid plate may put a Euro4 Mondeos' EML on (that can be reset with a code reader) Euro3 Mondeos can have a solid EGR blanking plate fitted without the EML (ever) coming on (due to the solid plate)

[Simon whirlwind]

I have just ordered the blanking plug for my car(stainless steel) and will fit it once I have the stainless steel pipe replaced today. They are also going to clean the EGR valve out too. I thought as I had another pipe for it, I would at least get that done. I have noticed lately that I am getting exhaust fumes in my car, and that it not good? The EGR valve is at the front left hand side of the engine, so I assume it is a Euro 3.

The fault on my car might not be a EGR problem, as the code is P2263 (boost issue). I will get the garage to check all the boost pipes etc going to the turbo. This could be the problem why limp mode keeps happening. This happens whether the engine is cold or hot, accelerating or not.

Thanks for your help.

[FOCA]

I have just ordered the blanking plug for my car(stainless steel) and will fit it once I have the stainless steel pipe replaced today. They are also going to clean the EGR valve out too. I thought as I had another pipe for it, I would at least get that done. I have noticed lately that I am getting exhaust fumes in my car, and that it not good? The EGR valve is at the front left hand side of the engine, so I assume it is a Euro 3.

The fault on my car might not be a EGR problem, as the code is P2263 (boost issue). I will get the garage to check all the boost pipes etc going to the turbo. This could be the problem why limp mode keeps happening. This happens whether the engine is cold or hot, accelerating or not.

Thanks for your help.

As above - no point in cleaning out the EGR valve (smaller diameter pipes/ hoses, just the main body that the engine air goes through) as no flow will go through it with the solid blanking plate - you must take the inlet manifold off and clean that out

Again, as above, having the EGR valve at the front left of the engine does not mean it is a Euro3 or Euro4, (mk3 Mondeo diesel) it could be either, (there are several different types/ designs) in fact, if your car is more likely to be Euro4, if your car year is correct on your profile, post up some pictures of your engine - i colud tell you

the pipe leaking can allow exhaust gasses (inc. carbon monoxide) into the engine bay that can find its way into the passenger cabin - not good - it can also reduce the energy going from the exhaust to the turbine, so affect boost, so wait and see if this fixes your problem, and take it from there

[Simon whirlwind]

Hi there,

Just got the car back and no limp mode, or management light on.

Watch this post as I am probably the most unluckiest bloke on earth, so could be further trouble ahead.

I will clean the manifold, should the fault persist and take it from there.

I have attached a picture of the engine for you to have a look at to determine what type it is (Euro 3 or 4)?

Thanks again

Simon

PS. having trouble trying to paste two images from my computer?

[FOCA]

Hi there,

Just got the car back and no limp mode, or management light on.

Watch this post as I am probably the most unluckiest bloke on earth, so could be further trouble ahead.

I will clean the manifold, should the fault persist and take it from there.

I have attached a picture of the engine for you to have a look at to determine what type it is (Euro 3 or 4)?

Thanks again

Simon

PS. having trouble trying to paste two images from my computer?

Cant see the pics, but, looking at the back of the engine you can see part of the top of the turbo sticking out past the engine cover - thats the turbo actuator - is it a rectangular black thing with wires or a silver metal can with a rubber hose?

does the EGR valve have a silver metal can with a rubber hose coming out of it, or a large square block with wires?

So far ive seen 4 different types of EGR valves on mk3 diesel Mondeos, 3 basic types of turbo (with multiple variations) 2 different inlet manifolds, etc etc