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Smoke, Noise, Rattles And Limp Mode!

Smokey Exhaust DMF EGR Valve Injectors

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#1 Steve Jarvis

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Posted 31 July 2014 - 10:31 PM

Hi Guys

 

New to posting but have read many posts that have been very helpful indeed!

My story is this:

55 Plate Mondeo 2ltr 130 tdci with 146k motorway miles.

Firstly like to say that I love this car, it's a great car that takes me on a journey of 33 miles each way to work

5 days a week and gives me 650 miles per tank. Good enough for me for the mileage it's done!

I changed the starter motor 3 months ago as I was experiencing the dreaded howl of a dying starter and I'm aware that

I will be facing the not so wallet happy task of converting over to an SMF and new clutch. Got a decent price from a local

supplier for about £280 for the parts and a good mate with lots of experience to replace the parts for me.

The issue's I'm getting are:

Smoke on semi hard acceleration

Clutch pedal seems to snag occasionally

Jumps into limp mode if I have to accelerate above 3k revs when cold.

 

Having read lots of info on the smoke, I am confused over the egr valve blanking plate trick versus having the injectors reconditioned, what works best, if any?

The clutch pedal issue I believe not to be that serious but probably a mechanical snag in and around the foot well but yet to properly investigate.

The limp mode inconvenience I am putting down to temperature and age or could it be something else???

 

Any help to the above from your vast knowledge is much appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

 



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#2 jeebowhite

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Posted 13 August 2014 - 09:29 PM

Hi Steve,

 

Start off with the EGR blank - why you ask? - because it costs a fiver! go ahead and buy yourself new injectors your going to be costing yourself hundreds!

 

the smoke is normally due to the carbon buildup being thrust out when the EGR opens, on a cold engine, the EGR opens up a lot more often and will impact engine performance, when it warms up its not needed so much!

 

Honestly start with the EGR Blank and you probably wont need to do anything else, and even if you do, it costs only a fiver!



#3 Steve Jarvis

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Posted 13 August 2014 - 10:23 PM

Cheers for the advice, can't argue with the simplicity. I have the blank sitting here ready, wanna get the clutch pedal thing sorted aswell (see previous post)
Will it be sensible to clean out the pipe work that's in close proximity to the egr? If so, what's the best thing to use?
Cheers


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#4 jeebowhite

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Posted 13 August 2014 - 10:29 PM

to be honest, cleaning it out is pointless, as once you blank it, it wont be used again.

 

you can remove the egr and clean the valve itself if you just want it to be that bit better but its not going to make any real impact :)



#5 Steve Jarvis

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 05:55 AM

Thanks James, help much appreciated


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#6 FOCA

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 07:32 PM

to be honest, cleaning it out is pointless, as once you blank it, it wont be used again.

 

you can remove the egr and clean the valve itself if you just want it to be that bit better but its not going to make any real impact :)

Unfortunately the EGR valve veposits carbon into the inlet manifold (and inlet ports) this can mix with the oil from the crankcase breather, this can build up over time and eventually choke the engine -

http://www.google.co...-3.html;640;480

 

the only real answer is to take the inlet manifold off and clean it with petrol and/or a high power jetwash, along with the EGR body (the bit(s) the engine air flows through, as J has said, no point in cleaning the EGR components if a solid plate is fitted, as exhaust gasses will no longer flow in those (EGR) pipes



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