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Window Mind Of Its Own


vic787
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My front passenger door window has started going down on its own while moving but will go back up by operating either switch. Today just before I came to a stop the window came down on its own and by the time I stopped I could not operate any of the four windows from the drivers door as the switches appeared dead but the passenger door window could be operated from the passenger side. I could not close the drivers door window untill I drove forward a few yards. Before I shoot off to a Ford Dealer does anyone have a clue as to what may be the problem

Vic

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My front passenger door window has started going down on its own while moving but will go back up by operating either switch. Today just before I came to a stop the window came down on its own and by the time I stopped I could not operate any of the four windows from the drivers door as the switches appeared dead but the passenger door window could be operated from the passenger side. I could not close the drivers door window untill I drove forward a few yards. Before I shoot off to a Ford Dealer does anyone have a clue as to what may be the problem

Vic

sounds like a loose connection or faulty contact on the front passenger door switch,

How confident are you with DIY mate?

Reason i ask is:

You could save yourself over £100 fixing the issue yourself, compared to going ford dealer,

You have a titanium spec this is great because you have rear electric windows,

The rear windows have the same identical control switch as the front passenger window,

To check if it is the front passenger window switch that is at fault,

See my guide on fitting puddle lights, it shows how to remove window switch,

dont need to remove door cards, just the plastic around door handle, flat head screwdriver is all tools required,

Here's the guide:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/46244-guide-fitting-ford-projector-puddle-lights-mk2-mk25-focus-05-12-front-doors/

I have extracted the relevant sections of the guide and posted them below on this thread to best eliminate possible confusion see below content,

First Swap the front door passenger window switch with one from either of the back doors, straight swap

Give it a try for a few days,

If the rear window starts dropping instead then it is of course a faulty switch and you can purchase a replacement from any breakers on eBay fit it yourself,

see passenger window switch for sale here:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/251551284730?nav=SEARCH

And

See Drivers side full control unit for sale here:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/271564589104?nav=SEARCH

same units 2005-2011

If the front passenger window persist's to drop after swapping switch,

Then check connections on the drivers door card,

If no success then you must go to ford but at this point you can eliminate any possibility that it is the passenger door switch saving you a few pounds off ford's labour costs trying to source the problem,

Atleast try swap switch first and save yourself the bill mate nothing lost,

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Heres how to gain access to connections in the drivers door to check for loose connection

IMG_20130801_223143_zps5233ded9.jpg

IMG_20130801_223227_zpsb48dcb5b.jpg

IMG_20130801_224102_zpseaca1aae.jpg

IMG_20130801_224343_zps5b06eebd.jpg

IMG_20130801_224631_zps89745775.jpg

IMG_20130801_224745_zps5f911239.jpg

IMG_20130802_122158_zpsff9d745c.jpg

IMG_20130802_122521_zps6d17f03c.jpg

IMG_20130802_122849_zps668e0b98.jpg

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To remove door handle surround start by squeezing the top and bottom of the plastic trim by the handle and then prize from the window switch side.

Pulling gently until it unclips , use a flat screwdriver if you can not get your finger nails behind. Once released unclip the wiring to remove the window switch,

Repeat steps on rear door in order to swap switches.

20111029112035_zpszsfhtjzc.jpg

20111029112117_zpsfyfpnvl9.jpg

Hope this helps :)

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Lenny thanks for the sound advice which I will be following tommorrow. I am fine with D.I.Y I have rebuilt a number of old vehicles and presently own a 1962 TR4. I tell you that, as they were and are, very simple cars to repair. This Focus is so technical that even to look under the bonnet makes me shudder. :lol:.

Your advice makes sense with the photographs. I will let you know how I get on.

cheers

Vic

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On 8/5/2014 at 5:27 PM, vic787 said:

Lenny thanks for the sound advice which I will be following tommorrow. I am fine with D.I.Y I have rebuilt a number of old vehicles and presently own a 1962 TR4. I tell you that, as they were and are, very simple cars to repair. This Focus is so technical that even to look under the bonnet makes me shudder. :lol:.

Your advice makes sense with the photographs. I will let you know how I get on.

cheers

Vic

ill have to google TR4 to find out what that is im guessing its a TVR though, beautiful cars,

Ive learned all i know on the focus this technology is all i know sort of opposite to yourself mate id be clueless,

Ive turned my focus inside out over past four years ive created 28 Guides all listed on my profile page with links,

Even found a secret 12v socket in the drivers side of the boot compartment,

Anyways let us know how you get on,

No gurantee it will solve the issue but its well worth a try and you will be 90% of the way there in solving rather than paying ford hours of labour checking areas that you can check yourself,

Any problems tomorrow just ask here, 

Ill do my best to assist and if i dont know i wont bull !Removed! you neither,

Cheers :)

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Just had a google there and found the TR4 is a Triumph Fine luxurious looking car they are mate, im sure they sound beautiful too, very rewarding restoration project.

post-14733-0-66743600-1407256820_thumb.j

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Hi Lenny don't want to tempt fate but did as you suggested and change the switches over. Also disconnected and reconnected the drivers side and up to now the window is behaving. Will let you know if it is permanent.

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Hi Lenny don't want to tempt fate but did as you suggested and change the switches over. Also disconnected and reconnected the drivers side and up to now the window is behaving. Will let you know if it is permanent.

sounds good Vic,

Fingers crossed it was just a lose connection,

Or if continues that its a faulty switch,

I was thinking afterwards when i linked you to a replacement window switch i think i linked you to one from a mk2 2005-2008 model

A mk2 switch is identical to your existing switch and will work 100%

However i failed to remember that the mk2 focus used green interior illumination in its electronics 2005-2008

Then used red illumination in the interior electrical devices in the mk2.5 2008-2011

it is for this cosmetic reason that you will require a switch from a mk2.5 2008-2011 model in the event a replacement switch is required in order to keep everything looking as it should last thing you want is three red illuminated and one green :rolleyes:

Fingers crossed it was just a loose connection though mate fingers crossed for you :)

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An update Lenny, the window is now getting worse and when it comes down the drivers switches become inoperable including the mirror control so contacted a local Auto electrician who has located a fault with his reader. He has ordered a switch from Ford and will fit it in the hope that the fault relates to the drivers door controls and will in fact, solve the fault or lead us to another. Will let you Know . Apparently local Ford Dealer has these switches on back order so may be a common fault for them to be requested.

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An update Lenny, the window is now getting worse and when it comes down the drivers switches become inoperable including the mirror control so contacted a local Auto electrician who has located a fault with his reader. He has ordered a switch from Ford and will fit it in the hope that the fault relates to the drivers door controls and will in fact, solve the fault or lead us to another. Will let you Know . Apparently local Ford Dealer has these switches on back order so may be a common fault for them to be requested.

Hi Vic,

Thanks for update mate, sorry to hear the fault is in the drivers side control unit, thats the most expensive switch out of all four,

Do you need to replace the full switch board i.e wing mirror controls and 4 window switches?

Was well worth a try swapping the front passenger switch from front to rear though,

We did attempt to resolve the issue,

Best to purchase from ford aswell instead of eBay since ford have a backlog of orders pending this perticular part: last thing you want to do is purchase a second hand unit on eBay which has the same issue as the one your removing,

Only option is to bite the bullet on this one,

Fingers crossed this eliminates the issue mate,

Are you going to fit the replacement unit yourself or the automotive electricion doing it for you?

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Yes quoted £135 for the switch, I dont know what it consists of but it must be made of a very precious metal at that price however it is needed. Driving today, I had the drivers window down and it started to rain so I got a wet shoulder before it would go up as the switch was dead for a few minutes. I am leaving the job to the Auto Electrician.

I don't know if you are aware but Triumph TR 4 are known for oil leaks, it is said that when a Triumph stops leaking oil it doesn't have any in it. Mine leaves a few drips wherever I stop (lose 1pint in 400 miles to give you some idea) Mine was M.O.T last Saturday and the garage that tests it, the mechanic used to work on them and he called me into the pit to show me the front timing chest seal was leaking so been busy renewing that. That car and job is more important to me than the Ford. I thought it was the sump gasket but it looks as though the leak was spreading back along the sump hence no drips at the front but mainly around the rear crank seal and gearbox.

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I don't have a pit and I hate laying on my back underneath so I cannot get a good check on the running gear, 20 years ago yes but not now.

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Yes quoted £135 for the switch, I dont know what it consists of but it must be made of a very precious metal at that price however it is needed. Driving today, I had the drivers window down and it started to rain so I got a wet shoulder before it would go up as the switch was dead for a few minutes. I am leaving the job to the Auto Electrician.

I don't know if you are aware but Triumph TR 4 are known for oil leaks, it is said that when a Triumph stops leaking oil it doesn't have any in it. Mine leaves a few drips wherever I stop (lose 1pint in 400 miles to give you some idea) Mine was M.O.T last Saturday and the garage that tests it, the mechanic used to work on them and he called me into the pit to show me the front timing chest seal was leaking so been busy renewing that. That car and job is more important to me than the Ford. I thought it was the sump gasket but it looks as though the leak was spreading back along the sump hence no drips at the front but mainly around the rear crank seal and gearbox. I don't have a pit and I hate laying on my back underneath so I cannot get a good check on the running gear, 20 years ago yes but not now.

I didn't know that about triumph mate and i totally agree with you it is way more important than the focus, i can understand that its almost one of the family in your home,

Well i had a project car before and i loved it that much i saw it to be just as important as one of the family, we have the NCT over here (National Car Test) i had a Toyota Levin BZR had a 4AGE 20 Valve TwinCam engine, had throttle body induction 6 speed lsd gear box was a project of mine for a while common problem was the cam cover oil seal and the Vti cam pulley would leak oil, thing was dripping a pint per week with engine running,

But NCT doesn't have oil leaks on there list of checks.

Make you laugh,

Anyways i hope the triumph is back to full health soon mate I'm sure there's someone close by whom could loan you the use of there garage with a pit or hoist for a weekend, to allow you check the running gear i understand how stressful it can be when things are not rite you just want to forget everything else and get it sorted.

Im currently out of work at present myself due to a herniated disc in lower back, had to pay a garage to service the focus this time around,

Overall your focus is being taken care of by the auto electrician, id appreciate it if you could keep us posted on the results mate,

Take care,

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Ouch! that is not comfortable, follow the rules of getting back to health even though it gets boring and seems to have no ending and you will be OK. Will keep you in the loop.

cheers

Vic

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Ouch! that is not comfortable, follow the rules of getting back to health even though it gets boring and seems to have no ending and you will be OK. Will keep you in the loop.

cheers

Vic

Thanks very much for your support Vic,

Please do keep us posted on resolving the issue.

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Quick update, new switch fitted in drivers door but problem still persists so car booked in to Ford to sort it out.

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Quick update, new switch fitted in drivers door but problem still persists so car booked in to Ford to sort it out.

Surprised to read the switch changes haven't solved it mate,

That gives the old switch panel some resale value on eBay since its all good.

Hopfully ford can solve it pretty swift.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well sorted at last this morning, We found that with the door closed nothing worked from the door control but with the door wide open everything worked. The door was stripped down and a search of the loom from the A post to the inside of the door found the wire hidden inside the metal door lining. There must have been just a bit of movement which allowed it to contact an earth. Taped it up and no more problems. Must have been like that when assembled and worked its way to an earth somewhere. Thanks for all the help everyone.

Ford found on their diagnostics that the fault lay in a mirror so it was a clue where to look and saved £99 per hour..

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Well sorted at last this morning, We found that with the door closed nothing worked from the door control but with the door wide open everything worked. The door was stripped down and a search of the loom from the A post to the inside of the door found the wire hidden inside the metal door lining. There must have been just a bit of movement which allowed it to contact an earth. Taped it up and no more problems. Must have been like that when assembled and worked its way to an earth somewhere. Thanks for all the help everyone.

Ford found on their diagnostics that the fault lay in a mirror so it was a clue where to look and saved £99 per hour..

Glad to read its finally been solved before the winter Vic it has been quite a journey of trial and error with this one,

Did you get the leak issue fixed on the TR4 aswell?

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Yes Lenny got that done as well, old cars are easy. I just changed the front timing chest seal and gasket and now no oil drips under the engine. Got to put it away for the winter now.

cheers

Vic

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