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Ianb

Advice?

21 posts in this topic

Hey guys,

I love the speakers in my mk2 focus estate, they're stock, but much better than my old 1996 clio :lol:

The thing is, I wouldn't mind a smidge more lower end noise - bass...

I'm not one of these people that drives round with all my windows down and bass booming, nor do fancy taking up my boot or removing rear seats with a big sub... So I don't need anything 'wikkid massssiv!'.. :D

...sooo I'm looking for any tips on anything 'small' or discreet, ideas, tips, etc.

Also how easily are these things to remove regularly if for instance it's in my boot and I want to transport things etc..

Thanks all..

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Hey guys,

I love the speakers in my mk2 focus estate, they're stock, but much better than my old 1996 clio :lol:

The thing is, I wouldn't mind a smidge more lower end noise - bass...

I'm not one of these people that drives round with all my windows down and bass booming, nor do fancy taking up my boot or removing rear seats with a big sub... So I don't need anything 'wikkid massssiv!'.. :D

...sooo I'm looking for any tips on anything 'small' or discreet, ideas, tips, etc.

Also how easily are these things to remove regularly if for instance it's in my boot and I want to transport things etc..

Thanks all..

Hi mate,

A sub is a very easy install in the focus well easier than most,

Because you already have a 12V positive feed behind the boot panel on the drivers side:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/29774-guide-additional-12v-power-socket-in-boot-focus-mk25/

Meaning you dont need to run a 12v positive the length of the car from the battery,

See Hassen's build:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/52338-2014-upgrades/

He has purchased a custom built box which is designed to sit in to the space behind the passenger side wheel arch in the boot taking up minimal space,

There are also plug&socket adaptors available on the market, i had one before from VIBE was a case of unpluging one single block close to the sub and out she comes no messin atall,

See hassen's build there for links to supplier and all that,

Any questions hassen or myself can help,

Another option is an under seat sub,

Basically a 10" flat sub around 1" thick has built in amp fits under the seat and does the same job as one in the boot,

you would need to remove the air duct feeding to rear footwell but not a big job to do that neither its just a plastic snorkle,

Caraudiodirect.co.uk are a good stockest at sound good prices (see what i did there :) )

Heres my first car done the sound install myself :lol:

Picture005.jpg

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Thanks Lenny. By the way how important is the 'box'.. Only £120 odd for a wooden carpet covered box seems steep. My dads got lots of wood tools and I'm sure he could knock up a box easy enough (or I could).

Also *tightwad alert* is there cheap subs, cheap amps, etc that I could use?

Also - yikes on that sub

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Thanks Lenny. By the way how important is the 'box'.. Only £120 odd for a wooden carpet covered box seems steep. My dads got lots of wood tools and I'm sure he could knock up a box easy enough (or I could).

Also *tightwad alert* is there cheap subs, cheap amps, etc that I could use?

Also - yikes on that sub

Fusion are cheap and good quality mate,

Cheapest sub enclosure is your spare tyre well,

Join RAC or AA roadside assistance for under 20 pounds per year and remove the spare wheel,

The sub box design doesnt really matter much unless you're entertaining competitions where it makes some difference to sound,

A sealed enclosure gives tighter bass compard to a ported enclosure as saw in the boot of car above,

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Fusion are cheap and good quality mate,

Cheapest sub enclosure is your spare tyre well,

Join RAC or AA roadside assistance for under 20 pounds per year and remove the spare wheel,

The sub box design doesnt really matter much unless you're entertaining competitions where it makes some difference to sound,

A sealed enclosure gives tighter bass compard to a ported enclosure as saw in the boot of car above,

In the back of an estate on either side there are two little compartments, I might see if I can squeeze something in there - if/when I get a chance to do it...

Plus my spare wheel is a full size alloy - will be sad to remove it :(

Plus the fiancee would not be impressed if I told her I can't change a tyre because I replaced it with a speaker... :lol:

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In the back of an estate on either side there are two little compartments, I might see if I can squeeze something in there - if/when I get a chance to do it...

Plus my spare wheel is a full size alloy - will be sad to remove it :(

Plus the fiancee would not be impressed if I told her I can't change a tyre because I replaced it with a speaker... :lol:

16" wheel or a 16" sub :lol:

Smallest sub available is a 10" last time i checked,

Anything below that is component consists of sub, tweeter and crossover box.

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Its not cheap but there is the pioneer "spare wheel" sub -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOZNvgR2dwc

it fits inside the spare - you just relocate the jack/ bits (it has quite a beefy sound (they say)

so you can keep your spoare wheel

you may be able to pick a decent one up at a good priice seconhand online

or one of the slimline powered underseat subs ( you could put it in the boot) -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHFByAANPME

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Is buying a second hand sub from ebay potentially dodgy? I know the speakers on my old clio developed a nasty bit of distortion as they got older, I'm wondering if the same could happen to an older sub?

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Is buying a second hand sub from ebay potentially dodgy? I knowy'all he speakers on my old clio developed a nasty bit of distortion as they got older, I'm wondering if the same could happen to an older sub?

doesnt really happen to subs because the dont do high pitch vocals which can damage speakers subs just do the bass,

You know you're systems good when your stopped at traffic lights and you see the dog on the street dancing chec it out ya'll :lol:

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Poor dog is ill :(

I'm into rock and metal anyway :lol:

I've been looking on gumtree and there's subs and amps for like £35 for both - might have to check these out...

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Hey guys, I've been looking around and have seen things like this: http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/edge-vibe-street-edition-sub/1075971947

Advantages and disadvantages?

Also, I don't understand how the 'Watt' thing works if you go for a separate sub and amp.. complicated :wacko:

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Hey guys, I've been looking around and have seen things like this: http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/edge-vibe-street-edition-sub/1075971947

Advantages and disadvantages?

Also, I don't understand how the 'Watt' thing works if you go for a separate sub and amp.. complicated :wacko:

Only disadvantage i can see is tinnitus,

I always went for a sub+amp combo aswell,

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Only disadvantage i can see is tinnitus,

I always went for a sub+amp combo aswell,

:lol: ... I assume whatever I get/if I get something, will be considered underused by most... Doubt I'll get anything JUST yet, insurance is coming up and I have a few 'life' projects that require cash which I have to give priority too over the car, but I'll keep my eyes peeled for things and if I'm too close to them I suppose I'll end up spending the cash.

Able to elaborate on the watt thing if I were to go for separate sub + amp?

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By the way how important is the 'box'.. Only £120 odd for a wooden carpet covered box seems steep. My dads got lots of wood tools and I'm sure he could knock up a box easy enough (or I could).

Depends. If the sub is a bass reflex (roughly, has a port) then matching the sub to the box is important, and that makes building the box sufficiently accurately a little more critical. For a sealed box, things are easier in the sense that if the dimensions are a little approximate, it doesn't matter that much (it changes how deep the bass goes and some other parameters slightly, but not dramatically). On the other hand, needing to be sealed is a difficulty, because approximate construction probably won't lead to good sealing and maybe the panels will flap around a bit, and that won't help the sound. (And, any filling you apply in the box will change the effective size slightly, and that would be a problem for a box that has to be built accurately to a size because it has to be built accurately to a size that isn't the size that it is. Which is a complication.)

In any case, it depends on what exactly you want and how critical you are. If you'll be happy provided that you get a bit more of a rumbling noise at low frequencies, then that's relatively easy. If you are bothered about how loud it goes, the exact matching between the sub and the existing speakers how well it matches with the room response of the car and whether the impulse response is still clean, you are making things more difficult, and if you are bothered about all of the above, then things have got really difficult, and you probably won't satisfy all of the above simultaneously with your skinflint ambitions, however hard you try.

Also, I don't understand how the 'Watt' thing works if you go for a separate sub and amp..

Watts is volts times amps. You need enough. All else being equal, which it rarely is, more is louder. If you turn it up too far, you can destroy the speaker through over-extension. If the amp won't deliver enough and you turn it up too far, it can still destroy the speaker, but without the over-extension.

Also *tightwad alert* is there cheap subs, cheap amps, etc that I could use?

Probably. Amazon tends to be a good place to look. The bay of fleas, I don't tend to trust, but if someone recommends someone trustworthy, that might work.

Matching the drive unit to the box is an issue, so if you get the box and drive unit together, that ought to (note: ought) be a help. Otherwise, you should be looking at the Thiel-Small parameters, in the first instance, and I don't think that you want to do that.

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Depends. If the sub is a bass reflex (roughly, has a port) then matching the sub to the box is important, and that makes building the box sufficiently accurately a little more critical. For a sealed box, things are easier in the sense that if the dimensions are a little approximate, it doesn't matter that much (it changes how deep the bass goes and some other parameters slightly, but not dramatically). On the other hand, needing to be sealed is a difficulty, because approximate construction probably won't lead to good sealing and maybe the panels will flap around a bit, and that won't help the sound. (And, any filling you apply in the box will change the effective size slightly, and that would be a problem for a box that has to be built accurately to a size because it has to be built accurately to a size that isn't the size that it is. Which is a complication.)

In any case, it depends on what exactly you want and how critical you are. If you'll be happy provided that you get a bit more of a rumbling noise at low frequencies, then that's relatively easy. If you are bothered about how loud it goes, the exact matching between the sub and the existing speakers how well it matches with the room response of the car and whether the impulse response is still clean, you are making things more difficult, and if you are bothered about all of the above, then things have got really difficult, and you probably won't satisfy all of the above simultaneously with your skinflint ambitions, however hard you try.

Watts is volts times amps. You need enough. All else being equal, which it rarely is, more is louder. If you turn it up too far, you can destroy the speaker through over-extension. If the amp won't deliver enough and you turn it up too far, it can still destroy the speaker, but without the over-extension.

Probably. Amazon tends to be a good place to look. The bay of fleas, I don't tend to trust, but if someone recommends someone trustworthy, that might work.

Matching the drive unit to the box is an issue, so if you get the box and drive unit together, that ought to (note: ought) be a help. Otherwise, you should be looking at the Thiel-Small parameters, in the first instance, and I don't think that you want to do that.

Thanks for the reply, lots of info in there. I'm definitely not after anything top of the range, judging by what you've written. Ill eye up gumtree for an all in one cheapo special :lol:

Sent via carrier pigeon using Ford OC

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Hi mate have you tyres getting a different head unit stereo with more bass setting ? I've got a Sony 62x4 watt in mine going with all edge speakers and sub sounds good to be honest mate lol

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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Hi mate have you tyres getting a different head unit stereo with more bass setting ? I've got a Sony 62x4 watt in mine going with all edge speakers and sub sounds good to be honest mate lol

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

I haven't to be honest. I'm fairly happy with the standard head unit at the moment and really I'm after a sub I can just plug in, and then if I have to really load the car up, I can unplug it and throw it in the house (so to speak...)

Plus also, I'm days away from starting a crazy new step in my life so money is and will be extremely tight for a while now, so if I had a spare £30-40 or something I'd like to pick up a cheap sub/amp and try that out... Take my fiancée out...

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Yeah I got an edge sub with amp built in 10" from half it's for 70 quid easy to put in and out but like u say u want pay 30-40 have you tyred preloved mate

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