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#16 Ianb

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Posted 12 August 2014 - 06:26 PM

Only disadvantage i can see is tinnitus,
I always went for a sub+amp combo aswell,

:lol: ... I assume whatever I get/if I get something, will be considered underused by most... Doubt I'll get anything JUST yet, insurance is coming up and I have a few 'life' projects that require cash which I have to give priority too over the car, but I'll keep my eyes peeled for things and if I'm too close to them I suppose I'll end up spending the cash.

 

Able to elaborate on the watt thing if I were to go for separate sub + amp?



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#17 BOF

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 03:53 PM

By the way how important is the 'box'.. Only £120 odd for a wooden carpet covered box seems steep. My dads got lots of wood tools and I'm sure he could knock up a box easy enough (or I could).

 

 

Depends. If the sub is a bass reflex (roughly, has a port) then matching the sub to the box is important, and that makes building the box sufficiently accurately a little more critical. For a sealed box, things are easier in the sense that if the dimensions are a little approximate, it doesn't matter that much (it changes how deep the bass goes and some other parameters slightly, but not dramatically). On the other hand, needing to be sealed is a difficulty, because approximate construction probably won't lead to good sealing and maybe the panels will flap around a bit, and that won't help the sound. (And, any filling you apply in the box will change the effective size slightly, and that would be a problem for a box that has to be built accurately to a size because it has to be built accurately to a size that isn't the size that it is. Which is a complication.)

 

In any case, it depends on what exactly you want and how critical you are. If you'll be happy provided that you get a bit more of a rumbling noise at low frequencies, then that's relatively easy. If you are bothered about how loud it goes, the exact matching between the sub and the existing speakers how well it matches with the room response of the car and whether the impulse response is still clean, you are making things more difficult, and if you are bothered about all of the above, then things have got really difficult, and you probably won't satisfy all of the above simultaneously with your skinflint ambitions, however hard you try.

 

Also, I don't understand how the 'Watt' thing works if you go for a separate sub and amp.. 

 

Watts is volts times amps. You need enough. All else being equal, which it rarely is, more is louder. If you turn it up too far, you can destroy the speaker through over-extension. If the amp won't deliver enough and you turn it up too far, it can still destroy the speaker, but without the over-extension.

 

Also *tightwad alert* is there cheap subs, cheap amps, etc that I could use? 

 

Probably. Amazon tends to be a good place to look. The bay of fleas, I don't tend to trust, but if someone recommends someone trustworthy, that might work.

 

Matching the drive unit to the box is an issue, so if you get the box and drive unit together, that ought to (note: ought) be a help. Otherwise, you should be looking at the Thiel-Small parameters, in the first instance, and I don't think that you want to do that.



#18 Ianb

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:07 PM


Depends. If the sub is a bass reflex (roughly, has a port) then matching the sub to the box is important, and that makes building the box sufficiently accurately a little more critical. For a sealed box, things are easier in the sense that if the dimensions are a little approximate, it doesn't matter that much (it changes how deep the bass goes and some other parameters slightly, but not dramatically). On the other hand, needing to be sealed is a difficulty, because approximate construction probably won't lead to good sealing and maybe the panels will flap around a bit, and that won't help the sound. (And, any filling you apply in the box will change the effective size slightly, and that would be a problem for a box that has to be built accurately to a size because it has to be built accurately to a size that isn't the size that it is. Which is a complication.)

In any case, it depends on what exactly you want and how critical you are. If you'll be happy provided that you get a bit more of a rumbling noise at low frequencies, then that's relatively easy. If you are bothered about how loud it goes, the exact matching between the sub and the existing speakers how well it matches with the room response of the car and whether the impulse response is still clean, you are making things more difficult, and if you are bothered about all of the above, then things have got really difficult, and you probably won't satisfy all of the above simultaneously with your skinflint ambitions, however hard you try.


Watts is volts times amps. You need enough. All else being equal, which it rarely is, more is louder. If you turn it up too far, you can destroy the speaker through over-extension. If the amp won't deliver enough and you turn it up too far, it can still destroy the speaker, but without the over-extension.


Probably. Amazon tends to be a good place to look. The bay of fleas, I don't tend to trust, but if someone recommends someone trustworthy, that might work.

Matching the drive unit to the box is an issue, so if you get the box and drive unit together, that ought to (note: ought) be a help. Otherwise, you should be looking at the Thiel-Small parameters, in the first instance, and I don't think that you want to do that.


Thanks for the reply, lots of info in there. I'm definitely not after anything top of the range, judging by what you've written. Ill eye up gumtree for an all in one cheapo special :lol:


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#19 st-rep-boy

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 09:07 AM

Hi mate have you tyres getting a different head unit stereo with more bass setting ? I've got a Sony 62x4 watt in mine going with all edge speakers and sub sounds good to be honest mate lol


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#20 Ianb

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 12:50 PM

Hi mate have you tyres getting a different head unit stereo with more bass setting ? I've got a Sony 62x4 watt in mine going with all edge speakers and sub sounds good to be honest mate lol


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I haven't to be honest. I'm fairly happy with the standard head unit at the moment and really I'm after a sub I can just plug in, and then if I have to really load the car up, I can unplug it and throw it in the house (so to speak...) 

 

Plus also, I'm days away from starting a crazy new step in my life so money is and will be extremely tight for a while now, so if I had a spare £30-40 or something I'd like to pick up a cheap sub/amp and try that out... Take my fiancée out... 



#21 st-rep-boy

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 05:04 PM

Yeah I got an edge sub with amp built in 10" from half it's for 70 quid easy to put in and out but like u say u want pay 30-40 have you tyred preloved mate


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