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C-Max 2004 - Central/manual Locking Only Opens Driver Door

C-Max Cmax focus central locking

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#1 tigrepojke

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 07:49 PM

I have a 2004 C-Max, having some issues with the central locking

First noticed it few days ago where the keyfob would unlock all doors except the front-passenger door, the lockbutton above the handle stays pushed in. Unable to open the door manually by pulling the handle or the lockbutton, it has no keyhole on outside. The door is perma-closed

It has now spread to both the rear passenger doors, neither of them will unlock when I use the keyfob. The offside rear passenger door will unlock manually, the nearside one will not.

The same symptoms are there if I unlock the car manually by the driver keyhole, only the driver door will unlock.

I have tried the following with no resolution

- reprogramming the key to unlock just driver door, or unlock all doors (this is done by unlocking with keyfob, then pressing the lock/unlock button together until the hazards blink)

- reregistering the key to the car (done by turning ignition from 0 to II about 4-5 times until hear a beep, take key out and press a button until hear another beep)

- have replaced the keys battery

- have replaced the central locking fuses of F77 and F55. I saw in a wiring diagram that F41, F72, F81 and F82 also serve central locking but they had no fuses present in my fusebox

- have removed the central locking fuses to see if the other doors release, they do not

- spraying WD40 into the interior handles, the driver door keyhole, locklatch (on side)


The above things I've tried are from various threads I've been reading through on this forum and another the past couple days. I remember seeing one thread saying the driver door lock mechanism controls the other doors and something along the lines that the wiring/solenoid might be damp or dirty so it isn't reporting to the central locking system that the door is unlocked thus releasing the passenger doors but I cannot find this thread again

My plan tomorrow is to work out how to get the driver door card off and have a poke about in there, see if anything is damp or needs cleaning in the first instance. Is there a guide somewhere on getting the door card off, what to look for inside etc etc?

It has been raining almost non-stop for 2days so my money is on damp and I want to take a look


thanks in advance



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#2 jeebowhite

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 09:25 PM

I took t he door card off mine about 6 months ago. You need the door open and to put a flat blade screwdriver or similar up into the gaps along the card and prize the card off. Before that you need to remove the lower door grip from the inside by prising it off, you will also need to undo the two ten mm bolts and disconnect the switch wiring. After all of this you can just pull the card off.

When reinstalling you need to remove forcefully the clips from the metal of the door and buy replacements, I got them for around 4 quid and you need to put these in the door card then refit the door card. It took me about half an hour to do each part in total

#3 tigrepojke

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 09:50 PM

Thanks Jeebo

 

I took the doorcard off this morning, was a couple of 8mm bolts on mine. Only problem was once that was off I was still none the wiser as there is another metal plate bolted on the door with all the working parts behind it.

 

Tried taking it off by removing around eight or nine 8mm bolts but once they were out it still wouldn't come away, was unsure if yanking it off would damage anything and I'm away for a few days tomorrow so didn't want to risk it. Just pried the metal plate away enough to gun a load of wd40 in there for the hell of it then bolted it all back up

 

Will revisit it the following weekend, if anyone knows how to get that metal plate off fully without damaging anything please let me know



#4 jeebowhite

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 10:21 AM

I think its riveted in place, which is the majority of the issue sadly.



#5 tigrepojke

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Posted 02 September 2014 - 12:18 PM

I think its riveted in place, which is the majority of the issue sadly.

 

Ok that's disappointing as if I rip it off I doubt I can get it to stay on again. I'll have to see how much a Ford specialist wants to sort it out then.

 

Thanks for the reply



#6 theredfox

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Posted 02 September 2014 - 12:45 PM

Thanks Jeebo

 

I took the doorcard off this morning, was a couple of 8mm bolts on mine. Only problem was once that was off I was still none the wiser as there is another metal plate bolted on the door with all the working parts behind it.

 

Tried taking it off by removing around eight or nine 8mm bolts but once they were out it still wouldn't come away, was unsure if yanking it off would damage anything and I'm away for a few days tomorrow so didn't want to risk it. Just pried the metal plate away enough to gun a load of wd40 in there for the hell of it then bolted it all back up

 

Will revisit it the following weekend, if anyone knows how to get that metal plate off fully without damaging anything please let me know

drill out the rivets,have a  99 passat and metal door panel held on by 10 bolts similar to what you describe in the ford .passat has gasket behind metal panel to stop water ingress so your car will probably have similar try levering off with broad chisel thats what i used on passat many times

paul



#7 theredfox

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Posted 02 September 2014 - 12:48 PM

drill out the rivets,have a  99 passat and metal door panel held on by
10 bolts similar to what you describe in the ford .passat has gasket
behind metal panel to stop water ingress so your car will probably have
similar try levering off with broad chisel thats what i used on passat
many times



#8 tigrepojke

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Posted 02 September 2014 - 03:36 PM

drill out the rivets,have a  99 passat and metal door panel held on by
10 bolts similar to what you describe in the ford .passat has gasket
behind metal panel to stop water ingress so your car will probably have
similar try levering off with broad chisel thats what i used on passat
many times

 

Yeah cheers redfox, was talking to a mate not long ago and he said he has a rivet gun so we'll be drilling that thing off sometime in the next couple of weeks and having a poke about. Will update when we get round to it



#9 tigrepojke

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Posted 06 September 2014 - 05:46 PM

Took another look at this today. Drilling the rivets wasn't doing much due to my drill being on its last legs, managed to get them out by chisel and hammering the heads

 

Still couldn't get the metal plate off fully, the window mechanism is attached somehow and I can't see where. I removed the torx screws around the window motor but something is still attached, tried with the window up and down.

Had to satisfy myself by gunning a load of wd40 over the locking motor/mechanism with my newfound limited access, will see how that does and if nothing fixes itself will have to take it into someone who knows what they're doing

 

Such is life



#10 jeebowhite

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Posted 06 September 2014 - 07:55 PM

Fingers crossed it helps but the regulator u believe is riveted on, you my have taken then head off the rivets and little behind?

#11 tigrepojke

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Posted 06 September 2014 - 08:23 PM

Possibly is the rivets that were securing the window regulator, it appears attached elsewhere and I tested the window multiple times so it is good for now. When I take it in to a garage I'll get them to re-rivet as part of the investigation



#12 theredfox

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Posted 06 September 2014 - 11:45 PM

on metal door panel does it have circular plastic plugs ?



#13 tigrepojke

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Posted 07 September 2014 - 12:49 AM

On the metal door panel there were 4 rivets in the middle, chiselled them off and reckon they were into the window regulator, it's still working for now

 

The plastic ones you mention are on the right hand side of the panel, black and plastic, managed to just pull the panel over them. They look to be attached to some plastic arm thing, reckon it's the gasket you mentioned for stopping water ingress.

 

Bit annoying really the panel wouldn't come fully away so I could get a good look at the cabling and lock motor. Probably just needs a sharp tug but worried I don't know how to put it all together again and end up with a door that has no working window etc or I break the regulator or something else meaning more money to spend out.



#14 supercmaxer

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Posted 07 September 2014 - 09:11 AM

When you take of the door car you should be able to see the central locking box, I don't think there is anything else behind the metal trim.

Have you removed the battery leads for about half hour. This usually resets electrics on the car.

#15 tigrepojke

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Posted 07 September 2014 - 11:40 AM

It looks to be behind the metal plate, there is the window regulator and the locking box. Here's a picture of the metal plate along with the same but coloured in, removed the rivets in red, torx in green and the plastic rivets just slid through the metal (with some effort) as I pulled it

 

Not disconnected the battery as unsure of the radio code, it was written in the manual but in poor handwriting. Suppose I could risk it

 

Metal Door Plate a
Metal Door Plate b


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