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tigrepojke

C-Max 2004 - Central/manual Locking Only Opens Driver Door

32 posts in this topic

The plates use pop rivets and it makes it difficult (I replaced the interior door release cable and it was a nightmare leaving the window as was) you need to support the window (or remove it fully) then drill the rivets out to remove the panel. When your done you need to have the rivets refitted, you can do this yourself, but calling a few garages means they could do it for a couple of quid or there abouts.

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Ok thanks Jeebo

Wasn't sure about those rivets needing to be removed or not as all the metal plates for the car you can buy have the rivets on them already, see the photos earlier in the thread.

I thought those rivets are holding the window regulator so maybe there is someway to wind the window down, release it and slide out. As to us it looked like it was the window regulator stopping the panel coming away and likely the glass itself is what is still connected. Remove that, door panel comes off.

Might be wrong

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I couldn't find a way to remove it and was told it could only be done drilling the rivets out. You can as far as I know remove the glass without that bit though

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OK got you. We'll try getting the glass out first and drill the rivets as a last ditch effort then

jeebowhite likes this

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New update

Managed to work out how to get the metal plate off, this was for the rear O/S passenger door. You remove all of the bolts on its face, think they're 8mm. Then you need to wind/motor the window down so far until you see the regulator clamping the glass, there is some screws to slacken off and you can lift the glass up....taped it to the door frame.

Then there are some more bolts on the end of the door, this is the bit hidden when the door is shut and where the locking latch is, so unscrew them.

Then you have to poke a long torx screwdriver through a hole in this end to be able to unscrew the door handle, remove the outer handle and now hopefully everything should be loose and if you angle it right you can slide the whole metal plate away from the door, the window regulator and the door locking latch unit will be on it,......at this point look at the wiring and you should see it going through the bottom left of the door and it attaching on the frame between the front and back doors. Disconnect it.

So friend and I had this plate off and took it inside. We then unscrewed lots more torx screws to get the locking latch unit off the door, then some more torx screws (and one drilled rivet) to release it as it is multiple parts. We opened it up and the best description is it is a Kinder Egg toy in there, it has metal parts with plastic teethed cogs which isn't the best combination but is no doubt designed to fail.

Poked around with it, put some loose bits back together, put it back together again (replaced rivet with a small coach screw and washer) then attached to the door panel and took it back to the car. Reversed the process to refit it, now this passenger door is as follows

- still does not unlock via central locking

- will unlock by manually pulling the interior handle

- it does lock via central locking.

That was a few weeks ago, hard to find the time to look at this but on Saturday just gone I thought I'd see if I can expose the door cable on the N/S doors and unlock by pulling on it as that was how I got into the O/S rear passenger door mentioned above.

Cable is not doing anything.

So it could still be a mechanical fault on the N/S doors locking latch unit, or it could be the signal that the front door is unlocked isn't getting to them which I've seen described as a 'Lock Down' problem. Apparently the AA techs often re-route electrical stuff via earthing and bridging, and they get in. They won't come out unless the lockdown is affecting all doors though, buggers.

I've also read other stuff, below are the things I will be looking into soon

- keep reading about a hidden Fuse 63, this appears to be hidden on the other side of the fusebox buried in wires. See it mostly in Zetecs and normal Focus, the fuse guide I have for the C-Max lists a fuse 63 but on something else. Still gonna try and get the fusebox out to check for myself. Also locate the multiplugs as mentioned earlier in this thread, see if loose or not, assumed the dealer would reported that but lost faith in them now.

- also read about a remote control signal unit in the driver footwell, again may be on other models but will check if one. Lot of people with other Ford models and similar problems to me have had success by unplugging this for 10mins and reattaching so will check if there is one, if not then I guess Ford integrated it onto the CJB or somewhere equally inaccessible.

- try an Auto Locksmith. Spoke to one who seemed like he's seen the problem before and reckons he can get the doors opened and can fix it, he said if he can't fix it then it will definitely be a dealer job such as replacing the fusebox but he will try all the normal fixes first. This sounds promising,.....unfortunately like the auto electricians I spoke to before he said to call back Monday to get an appointment so I rung this morning and they took all my details then said someone will call me in 20 mins. Still no phonecall

Will try them tomorrow

- if I get time later in the week, now I know how to get the door plate off, I will revisit my driver door and see what I see regarding any solenoids etc.

Sorry to anyone following this thread I didn't take photos when removing the metal plate, I will try and do that if I revisit the driver door.

jeebowhite likes this

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nice write up about taking of metal door panel had the same problem on last car passat window motor not working same procedure never did find the fault

hope you have better luck

paul

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