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C-Max 2004 - Central/manual Locking Only Opens Driver Door

C-Max Cmax focus central locking

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#16 theredfox

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Posted 07 September 2014 - 03:04 PM

have you thought about getting it scanned for any fault codes in lock/regulator ?

paul



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#17 jeebowhite

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Posted 07 September 2014 - 03:10 PM

It's a mechanical part that I don't believe is sensor monitored

#18 tigrepojke

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Posted 07 September 2014 - 05:08 PM

Had the battery disconnected most of the day, thought the doors would unlock with no power but they stayed locked. Whilst the battery was disconnected I checked nothing was working such as the horn or lights to make sure there wasn't some store I needed to drain.

Reconnected the battery and the problem is still there.

The radio code worked ok though which is good, noticed it kept all my programmed channels which I was not expecting.

 

theredfox, no not had a cpu put on it yet, a friend was supposed to be getting hold of a proper ford cpu unit but have been waiting months so far. Wanted the cpu on it to see if could work out why the car alarm was going off intermittently, whilst waiting for this cpu unit I noticed the bonnet latch wasn't unlocking too well and the bonnet was sitting up a bit so suspected this. Swapped out the bonnet latch, clip etc and it was shutting down fine,....during that I disconnected the switch to the bonnet latch to see if it was the cause of the alarm failure but the alarm still went off randomly so that was ruled out.

 

Now the door problem is kicking about. About a week before it happened whilst driving the "driver door" alert popped up but it was shut fine.

 

Had been shutting the car by leaning over from the offside passenger door and pressing the driver doors lock button as this seemed to get the car locked without arming the alarm. Had been doing that for about a month.

Then noticed the passenger front door was not unlocking.

Few days later all the doors aren't unlocking except the driver one, so have focused on looking at that lock motor.

Car alarm has not gone off since the locked door problem started.

 

 

I think I've exhausted all options available to me now unless anyone has any other ideas?



#19 Dan62

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Posted 08 September 2014 - 09:41 AM

I think the fault you have now is related to or around the passenger door unlock relay.

Unfortunately it is part of the central junction box.

It does seem odd that the doors failed in stages but maybe an original fault such as the front passenger door motor failed and has taken out the relay or blown a track off of the circuit board it is attached to.

 

As for the missing fuses, they are for models with rear power windows !!! although you should have a 25A fuse in F72 according to the wiring diagram.



#20 tigrepojke

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Posted 08 September 2014 - 07:59 PM

Ok thanks, I have it booked into a Ford Dealership tomorrow for investigation so we'll see what they say



#21 tigrepojke

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Posted 10 September 2014 - 08:25 PM

Update on this, car has been with the Ford dealer for 2 days now, they can't work it out either. They've got it for 2 more days now



#22 jeebowhite

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Posted 10 September 2014 - 08:32 PM

Fingers crossed they get your car sorted

#23 supercmaxer

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Posted 10 September 2014 - 11:04 PM

There are multi plugs on the fuse box under the passenger side dash, make sure all these are secure.

I had one that worked it way loose causing problems when I checked it a bit of plastic has broke of making it come loose.

#24 tigrepojke

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Posted 11 September 2014 - 01:52 PM

Ok thanks supercmaxer.  The car is currently in a Ford dealership since Tuesday, called me just now and said unsure of the problem however they saw some green discolouration on or around the fusebox. Said it is a 50/50 chance that could be the issue and is causing the unlock signal to get blocked, (nothing else electrical is at fault) and they recommend on a 50/50 chance to replace the fusebox at around £540. Unsure if that price includes VAT or not, either way I'm not spending that out on a 50/50 chance, it is not a diagnosis of the problem in my opinion and more a spin-the-wheel diagnosis.

 

Will get the car back and take it to an independent auto-electrician I reckon



#25 tigrepojke

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Posted Today, 12:40 PM

Latest update on this, problem is still there but haven't had much time to look at it, if needing more than one person in a car trip we take their car.

Have tried booking it into some local auto electricians, they gave me their card and told me to call them. Wouldn't make an appointment with me face to face, said I must call them and see if they are free, really weird way to do business in this day and age so never bothered ringing them.

 

So months ago the Ford dealer had it for days and reckoned it needed fusebox replacement, asked them if they checked the mechanisms in all the doors and they said yes. A friend and I got some time to muck about with it this weekend just gone and we removed the plastic doorcard on one of the problem rear doors, unable to get the metal plate off though as it seems to be attached to the window regulator somehow and couldn't work out how to detach, the rear doors are manual winders not electric.

 

So with what we could get our hands on we disconnected the interior door handle and got some pliers on the end of the metal pull thread, gave it a yank and the door unlocks.

Problem looks to be mechanical then, too much slack on this metal thread, need to get the metal panel off to investigate the door latching part but as mentioned am not sure how to do that.

 

Even if it is still an electrical issue, fixing the doors manual unlocking by shortening the metal thread or reseating it (might have come off on the other doors) will do for me. Still suspect it might not be electrical however as when I press the unlock button I can hear something moving in all the doors, will investigate the mechanical aspect further. If anyone knows how to get the metal plate off these doors I'd appreciate the advice.

 

Also well done on the local Ford Dealer who were asked to open all doors and check the mechanisms, they didn't. Makes me wonder what they were doing all the days they had it.



#26 jeebowhite

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Posted Today, 02:45 PM

The plates use pop rivets and it makes it difficult (I replaced the interior door release cable and it was a nightmare leaving the window as was) you need to support the window (or remove it fully) then drill the rivets out to remove the panel. When your done you need to have the rivets refitted, you can do this yourself, but calling a few garages means they could do it for a couple of quid or there abouts.

#27 tigrepojke

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Posted Today, 03:11 PM

Ok thanks Jeebo

 

Wasn't sure about those rivets needing to be removed or not as all the metal plates for the car you can buy have the rivets on them already, see the photos earlier in the thread.

I thought those rivets are holding the window regulator so maybe there is someway to wind the window down, release it and slide out. As to us it looked like it was the window regulator stopping the panel coming away and likely the glass itself is what is still connected. Remove that, door panel comes off.

Might be wrong



#28 jeebowhite

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Posted Today, 04:38 PM

I couldn't find a way to remove it and was told it could only be done drilling the rivets out. You can as far as I know remove the glass without that bit though

#29 tigrepojke

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Posted Today, 04:43 PM

OK got you. We'll try getting the glass out first and drill the rivets as a last ditch effort then



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