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Engine Swap Diesel To Petrol


Damon Cook
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But how do they know if a it has been remapped. Does it flash up on the dash on start and couldn't u play dumb and say it must of been the last owner

You could try but in a court of law "ignorance is no defence" it is your responsibility as the driver to know the vehicle is legal regardless of anything a previous owner may have done. You could try and argue the toss in a court but I would not fancy your chances.
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All good advice foca i have blanked the egr valve and stripped the intercooler and the pipes and cleaned them up i assume the egr is bolted onto the inlet manifold that you mentioned thats requires cleaning how easy is it to take off and clean ? My egr is at the back of the engine

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All good advice foca i have blanked the egr valve and stripped the intercooler and the pipes and cleaned them up i assume the egr is bolted onto the inlet manifold that you mentioned thats requires cleaning how easy is it to take off and clean ? My egr is at the back of the engine

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On some engines its quite difficult to remove the inlet manifold - it depends how good you are at these kinds of things - cleaning it it out should make a big positive difference to the way the car goes if the manifold is badly contaminated (which they often are) + once a solid EGR blanking plate is fitted the manifold the inlet manifold will no longer be contiuously contaminated by the EGR, and should stay clean from that, and continuous cleaning (of the inside of the exhaust manifold) shoukld no longer be required

There is a lot of talk of cleaning EGRs on this and other sites/forums, this is due to ignorance, spreading of misinformation, and people wanting a "quick fix" - they might think that squirting various solvents (often expensive, in pretty packaging)

The build-up of carbon is always going to be a continual problem on diesel engines with a working EGR valve (without a solid EGR blanking plate/ delete) With all the associated problems like EGR failure, limp home mode, engine getting choked, running rich, exessive smoke output/ clogged DPF, reduction of performance/ economy as the inlet gets progressively glogged up + an increase in emmissions

Once a solid blanking plate is fitted, it does not matter how dirty the EGR valve is, or if it is jammed, siezed, sticking open or completely clogged with carbon - as nothing flows in the EGR itself

Only the parts that the engine air flows through need to be removed and cleaned (on some designs this includes the main body of the EGR valve, but not the EGR valve itself) and of course, the inlet manifold (and in some cases, even the inlet ports)

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Ok well im not shy of getting my hands dirty but i think i enlist the help of a mechanic friend of mine to help clean the inlet manifold if it makes the same difference as the service and cleaning the intercooler il be very happy thanks for the advice

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Ok well im not shy of getting my hands dirty but i think i enlist the help of a mechanic friend of mine to help clean the inlet manifold if it makes the same difference as the service and cleaning the intercooler il be very happy thanks for the advice

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No problem - let us know how you get on, the condition of the inside of the manifold, and the difference it makes to the way the car runs

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Ive had someone tell me that changing the turbo and diesel pump off a mondeo ST would gove me a substantial increase in power but how easy would it be

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Ive had someone tell me that changing the turbo and diesel pump off a mondeo ST would gove me a substantial increase in power but how easy would it be

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Who told you that? was it a mate of kermit and miss piggy :lol:

I wont even bother explaining (the several reasons) how that won't work

My advice - get the car serviced, get your Bluefin remap get a panel filter, possibly some exhaust upgrades - there are other things you can do, but they are not going to make a lot of difference and/ or get expensive or require skill/ experience

Here are some -

Decat

heatwrapping the decat/ downpipe

gas-flowing the downpipe

back-box delete

larger diameter exhaust with straight-through silencer

resonator bypass

gas-flow the airbox

fit/ build a large diameter CAIS

larger FMIC (that fits the boost hoses/ fits the space) with waterspray

larger diameter boost hoses

shorter boost hoses/ redesign

EGR delete

replace the inefficient (soaks up power) waterpump with an electric one

lighten the car - fit the lightest wheels you can find, reduce weight / fit lighter parts eg battery etc

fit a solid flywheel carbon fibre/ kevlar clutch/ uprated (to handle the extra power/ torque )

fit a short-shifter (or modify the original one)

remove the AC (wastes power, adds weight)

These are some of the things ive done on my car - some of these things make a big difference, some just small - but they add up

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Or should i buy a mk1 st looks nicer and quick as standard

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My ac is busted anyway so myt take that out i was thinking of blacking the back windows and removing the seats to get more space that would make it lighter and i want a new exhaust also mine is crap anyway

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Should pretty much go without saying...but whatever you do, make sure you keep your insurance updated. A courtesy call to them to ask about potential mods is a good idea. They can give you a quote with mods added before you even start doing it.

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Not doing the mods til after the end of the insurance year just starting to quote the cost of the works against buying an ST

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Not doing the mods til after the end of the insurance year just starting to quote the cost of the works against buying an ST

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The ST170 is a nice car, well balanced and good to drive but it may be a big dissapointment for you, as its not very fast, its "all revs" - even a remapped Focus mk1 TD 1.8 produces almost 100Nm more torque TD = 287 Nm, ST = 195Nm "on paper"- The ST170 has a similar 0-60 etc to my car but you would not believe how slow it is by comparison in reality - with only about half the torque its not surprising really ( 50-74mph, Focamobile = 7.6secs - ST170 13.4secs (6th) 10.7secs (5th) 30-50 in 4th focamobile 5.5secs, ST170 6.3secs

The ST170 does not have a lot of tuning potential, either -

Just stick a remap (eg - Bluefin) on your car (just the remap on a stock car makes a big difference) untill you can afford something quick - like an ST225 or (lets just say it) a Scooby or EVO

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Wow never heard the stats on a st170 are that slow with remap on mine it says il go from 115bhp to 140bhp and get 50nm of torque extra are those stats accurate do you know

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Wow never heard the stats on a st170 are that slow with remap on mine it says il go from 115bhp to 140bhp and get 50nm of torque extra are those stats accurate do you know

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Yes, probably near enough to that (depends which model you have is it the TDCI115PS ?) here is what Superchips (Bluefin) claim its 321Nm - 126 than the ST170s 195!

http://www.mybluefin.co.uk/curves/focus18tdci115bhp-d.pdf

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Tbh sounds like a pain the the back side to do and a hell of a lot of money you should get quotes might be easier to sell or trade your car for a petrol version

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Tbh sounds like a pain the the back side to do and a hell of a lot of money you should get quotes might be easier to sell or trade your car for a petrol version

Its no hassle -

All you need to do is order the Bluefin, then install it (only takes 1/2 an hour, you dont even have to open the bonnet - plugs into the OBD port ) then you have 125Nm more than an ST170 - simples!

The Bluefin could be used for track days, racing etc, then restored back to std when you go back on the road - so no need to bother your insurence - though it would be difficult for them to tell, you would do the right thing, and inform then if you used it on the road, of course

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Foca what did you recommend that i changed my exhaust to ?

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Foca what did you recommend that i changed my exhaust to ?

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Foca what did you recommend that i changed my exhaust to ?

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The (bluefin) remap alone (without any other mods) will make the biggest difference - not a lot of point doing other things without the remap (apart from a service+ the inevitable solid EGR plate)

The stock Ford exhausts are generally not bad, the back-boxes tend to be the most restrictive part, followed by the cat, replacing the back box for a straight bit of pipe (competition use only :) ) or a "straight through" type silencer can be worth a few Hp (one owner claimed a dyno measured a 6Hp gain with this alone) the less restrictive exhaust helps the turbo spool up faster (so less turbo lag, better pickup, throttle response) if a decat is not available some just "gut" the cat

Puma and other manufacturers make back-boxes/ tailpipes that will fit your car - i dont know who makes a complete system, but it can be expensive, i recommend "mandrel bends" (where the bends in the exhaust dont "squash down"

You can go for a larger diameter, but it may not make that much more of a difference (after the back box delete and decat is done) it is reconed there is no point in going over 2-1/2" on smaller engines, a single pipe/ outlet is fine, dual outlets just add weight (they are more for cosmetic or other purposes on small engined, single turbo cars)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Klarius-FE925A-Exhaust-Tail-Pipe-FORD-FOCUS-C-MAX-1-6-TDCI-1-8-TDCI-03-07-/231080835370?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AFocus+C-Max&hash=item35cd7db92a

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-1-8-TDCi-98-04-Race-Tube-Exhaust-Tailpipe-Single-4-/291241400657?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43cf571951

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What do you mean by gut the cat ive been told without a cat my car wont pass an mot

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What do you mean by gut the cat ive been told without a cat my car wont pass an mot

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I would not recommend it on a petrol engined car (though some do it) -

on a diesel there is no problem as only the smoke output is measured

I dare say there are a lot of people on the forum that dont have a cat :lol:

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Oh i went to get a quote from a garage who make exhausts and he said about taking the cat put but it wont pas an mot at all

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Oh i went to get a quote from a garage who make exhausts and he said about taking the cat put but it wont pas an mot at all

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They might have got confused about the difference between diesel and petrol - on a petrol (road legal) engine the cat is nessesary as the emmisions are measured, on a diesel, only the particulates are measured (smoke), so as long as the exhaust smoke output measures within tolerances (the output of the exhaust is not too smokey) and the exhaust can pass a visual inspection (looks like the cat (and DPF, if fitted) is present) it will not fail an MOT on the exhaust

In reality all the junk (CAT, EGR, DPF) etc they put on modern deisels that is supposed to reduce smoke can increase smoke emmisions as well as reduce MPG (having an even worse effect on the enviroment) - the cat does not reduce the particulate output of the engine, but tends to collect this on its surface - to dump it out when you "boot" the engine

It is well known that fitting a solid EGR blanking plate / disabling the EGR can reduce smoke from the exhaust, removing the cat can also reduce smoke as the surface of the cat can collect carbon that can be dumped out when you "boot" the engine (on the road this may mean more smoke/ particulates in built up areas/ near highly populated areas/ schools etc- concentration particulates in the worst areas)

+ any thing that reduces MPG is liable to have a negative effect on the enviroment (due to the high enviromental cost of producing / delivering fuel) and an increase in the carbon footprint - this can more than offset and advantages

So ironically removing the cat can help the car pass its MOT (by reducing the smoke output) and you may be helping the enviroment as well

Try a different garage or do it yourself

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Ok can anyone recommend a decent exhaust place for my tdci focus in the west midlands

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