1.6 Tdci Turbo Protection

[Dee_82]

hi everyone

Im on the hunt to consolidate some information on reducing the chances of the dredded turbo failures!

It seems everyone and their aunty has a different "solution" and reasons for it going wrong and I was hoping to bring them together and if possible prioritise them.

Ive taken care of the EGR and DPF which usually end up on others lists already

Have injectors checked for leaks

Add oil catch take off Breather pipe limiting ingestion of oil

remove filter inside the banjo bolt for the turbo oil feed

remove sump, pickup, clean and replace

regular oil changes (every 6k)

does anyone else have any further suggestions or what order to have these jobs taken care off?

I realise we're talking about reducing chances rather then cures so I wont hold it against anyone ;)

cheers folks

D

[IINexusII]

Best protection is to sell it and get a 1.8 :D

jk

[gurcayy]

Yes. There are few basics for any diesel engine that would help protecting/prolonging the life of the turbo.

1. Using quaility oil and fuel filter is crucial. So, forget Halfords oil and any unbranded fuel filters. Stick to q quality oil brand ( Castrol, Motul, Mobil, Millers, Fuchs and etc.) and filter ( Motorcraft, UFI, Mann, Hengst, Bosch)

2. Using quality diesel is also crucial.

3. When you start the engine, don't run the car immediately! Instead of this, after starting the engine wait 30-40 seconds. This time is needed for oil to reach and the turbine and raise pressure.

4. Avoid driving above 2000 rpm while the car is still cold.

5. Don't stop the engine immediately after intensive driving. Instead of this when you stop the car allow it to run on idle for few minutes. This is cruical for turbine's life.

[TomsFocus]

It's not just the regularity of oil changes, it's also doing it 'properly' to make sure no old oil is left. Citroen have set out guidelines of correct oil change procedure for DV6 engines, I'm not sure if Ford did as well but I'll try and find it shortly.

Also, when checking injectors for leaks, check the injector bolts are tight, it's these loosening that cause the leaks in the first place. Ford specify tightening these at services so if you have a dealer serviced car you should be fine. PSA don't specify tightening them though which is a bit worrying for any PSA owners lol.

I've also read that oil should be filled just over the maximum mark on the dipstick, I didn't see any evidence to prove why this is beneficial though, so if anyone can confirm or deny that, that'd be useful.

Also, different people have different opinions, I agree on the points above except not driving off immediately. It's better to drive off straight away after starting to warm the engine up more quickly - when you idle a cold engine you are potentially allowing diesel to pass into the oil, which thins the oil and degrades it. The oil pressure will be fine as soon as the light goes out which should be a second or less. I do however strongly agree with letting the turbine slow before shut-off after a brisk drive though, that's a must for any turbo engine!

Edit -

Citroen DV6 Oil change procedure:

Citroën wrote ...

OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE ON ALL DV6 ENGINES

It is necessary to follow a specific oil change procedure on all DV6 and DV6U engines so as to ensure that no used oil remains to mix with the new oil.

The following method must be used:

• The engine oil temperature must be at least 50°C :

- the engine oil temperature is considered to be at 50°C when the water temperature indicator is between 80°C and 90°C or the cooling fan has cut in

• ensure that the vehicle is level (side to side and fore and aft)

• remove the oil filter to allow the circuit to drain completely

• remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick

• remove the drain plug

• allow the oil to drain by gravity for at least 10 minutes (DO NOT USE SUCTION METHODS)

• fit a new oil filter

• refit the drain plug with a new sealing washer

• fill the engine with quantity of oil recommended for the engine

• refit the oil filler cap and the dipstick

• run the engine at idle until the oil pressure warning lamp goes out (about 1 minute)

• wait 5 minutes

• check the oil level using the dipstick: the level should be as close as possible to, but not exceeding the maximum mark (1) so as to be between (1) and (3)

For information, the lower mark (2) = Min (0%) the upper mark (1) = Max (100%) the intermediate mark (3) = ¾ litre.

CONSEQUENCES OF NOT KEEPING TO THE OIL CHANGE INTERVALS

If the customer does not have the oil changed at the recommended intervals, the oil will become excessively polluted and will no longer ensure the correct lubrication of the engine. One of the first consequences is inadequate lubrication of the turbocharger bearings causing a failure which is repeated after the turbocharger is replaced. Subsequent symptoms resulting from the reduced level of lubrication will be a noisy engine and then destruction of the engine.

We remind you that if the customer does not keep to the servicing intervals recommended in the Maintenance and Guarantee Guide, the customer will be responsible for the durability of the mechanical parts of the engine.

In this case, the any related repairs needed are not covered by the new vehicle warranty.

CONSEQUENCES OF NOT FOLLOWING THE OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE

If the oil changes are not done as described above, all deposits of old oil will not be removed and will very quickly pollute the new oil, accelerating the ageing of the oil in the engine lubrication circuit (even causing the oil to congeal).

The consequences for the engine are the same as if the oil change intervals are not observed. As a result, any related repairs needed are not covered under the new vehicle warranty.

[gurcayy]

Very nice points TomsFocus.

[Dee_82]

thanks guys, that's some great points made there, are there any thoughts on flushing engine with cleaners? im reluctant given some of the reports ive heard of making things worse.

suggestions on sump cleaning? ive heard the design on the 1.6 allows for some material to remain in the bottom.

several garages around here recommend the banjo bolt filter removal, I get that it could potentially allow material in places it shouldn't be in but is the benefits better then the possible issues?

is there any reason a novice shouldn't attempt to check and tighten the bolts on the injectors?

[TomsFocus]

Re banjo filter removal - if not removed it could clog and starve the turbo bearings. If removed the carbon could get through to the turbo bearings which will ultimately clog them. I think if its got to that point, its already past saving anyway! That said, I will be checking the filter when I do an oil change on mine.

Injector bolts are very easy to tighten with a simple tool kit, a torque wrench is useful but not essential.

[Dee_82]

I figured as much, ive been looking at ways to check out that filter and it seems the whole DPF and front section of the exhaust needs removed to get to it, genius idea if there ever was one!

ive got a couple of torque wrenches one of which should do the job nicely but you mention a tool kit though, is there something specific you'd recommend?

One other thing, the old oil im about to drain out, are there obvious "signs" to look out for within it, gritty graining, semi solid blobs, flakes, that kind of thing?

appreciate your help mate!

[TomsFocus]

Oh really? I haven't looked into getting at the banjo filter yet, maybe I'll leave it if its so much hassle lol. I'll have the DPF at some point soon anyway though.

I can't remember the torque setting I'm afraid, should be in the Haynes if you have one though. The reason I say tool kit is that one or two of the bolts are difficult to get to and require a bendy extension or removal of other parts. The bolts themselves use a hex/allan head.

With the old oil, there shouldn't be anything big enough to see in it really, looking at the oil filter will give a better idea of whats hanging around in there! oil itself will probably just be solid black, hopefully without shiny metal particles in it lol.

[Dee_82]

Oh really? I haven't looked into getting at the banjo filter yet, maybe I'll leave it if its so much hassle lol. I'll have the DPF at some point soon anyway though.

I can't remember the torque setting I'm afraid, should be in the Haynes if you have one though. The reason I say tool kit is that one or two of the bolts are difficult to get to and require a bendy extension or removal of other parts. The bolts themselves use a hex/allan head.

With the old oil, there shouldn't be anything big enough to see in it really, looking at the oil filter will give a better idea of whats hanging around in there! Oil itself will probably just be solid black, hopefully without shiny metal particles in it lol.

ive got some socket adaptors that should angle nicely, though the torque wrench says not to use them, will have a poke through the book tonight to find the figures.

yeah the sump is under the front part of the exhaust , whilst its possible to undo it, there isn't enough room to take it off. garage quoted me 3 hours £150 to get to it, remove filter and put it back. every guide ive found has said the DPF needs removed, which also means the fan and a few other things.

ok, shiny metal in the oil is bad along with lumps of coal ;) the only thing im a little concerned about is the crap left in the bottom of the sump, I don't fancy disturbing it but then I don't really want it in there either if its going to contaminate the new oil

[TomsFocus]

So the DPF has to come off for the turbo feed bolt. And the fan has to come off for the DPF? It's like they've deliberately put everything just slightly too close together lol.

Yeah metal and coal in the oil wouldn't be good haha, well unless it's pressuring so much you get a diamond anyway lol.

Personal preference with disturbing the 'gunge' I guess. I'm not going to go to the hassle of removing the sump, but I was going to use some Wynns oil Flush on the Focus, though I've never tried it before so I can't say whether it's good idea or not. Wouldn't think there'd be much there as its low mileage and dealer serviced though.

[IINexusII]

Ford dont recommend using oil flushing additives,

There is a magnetic sump bolt which you can get that can collect metal bits as the oil is flowing around, and it will come out with the old oil on an oil change, something i use myself and does pick up alot of tiny fragments

(for the 1.6 TDCI): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-II-1-6-TDCi-Black-Magnetic-Sump-Plug-11-2004-/301293262652?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item46267a573c

[TomsFocus]

Fair enough then, I won't flush it in that case!

[Dee_82]

yeah, id heard that it can loosen up crap which would otherwise sit happily still, someone else was saying that the gunk could be blocking leaks and removing it might make it worse.

others say if you use it, you should fill with oil, run it for a while, then flush it again, run and flush again a couple of times, to ensure there isn't any bits floating about, sounds expensive

I think the consensus was, if its in good nick, flushing is fine, but if its not, then don't.

nice plug :) I need to get this done tomorrow since its going to rain for the next 3 months up here, ill get one next time though, seems a good idea!

[TomsFocus]

I'd hope the engines still pretty fresh internally at just 48k miles. I wouldn't use it on an old car though, as I know it's likely to cause leaks there as you say. If Ford don't recommended it though, I wont try it lol, I'll just follow the specific DV6 procedure.

I'll also go for a magnetic plug next time after seeing that. :)

Have you bought your service parts yet? How much is the genuine oil and filter if so?

[Dee_82]

£40, oil being most of that, filter washer and a jubilee clip to replace those buggers ford use on the intake pipes, air filter fine as I recently replaced it with a green cotton job, will need to do the cabin filter at some point too though.

it was a toss up between Mobil super 3000 x1 FE and magnatec a1, after a stack of research I couldn't see any reason to pay more for less and get the magnatec so I went for the Mobil super

got most of it from Halfords with the lovely FOC discount ;)

[TomsFocus]

Fair enough, that's not too bad!

Mine had a full service just before I bought it, so will only need oil and filter this time. Price dependant I was going to buy direct from the dealer though, just for the piece of mind that I've got exactly the right oil and filter as these are so fussy lol.

[Dee_82]

about £10 of that was several new clips to replace those stupid ford ones so say 30 quid for the oil and filter.

that oil apparently meets or exceeds the ford spec for our engines so will be fine

[williamweb]

Following up on the magnetic plug suggestion ; I wondered about running a magnet around the sump to the plug . What do you think?

[Dee_82]

not sure if that would help

you would need to leave it there for a while to capture anything.

So I changed out the filter and the oil today, apart from having to slacken off the mental turbo pipe going down to the intercooler to create some space for the filter it was nice an straight forward.

the oil filter was as far as I could tell, perfect, it didn't have anything in it at all that didn't look like it belonged there.

after removing the oil in to a pan then switching it to a container I noticed at the bottom of my pan small globules of oil, smooth in their own right but lumpy compared to the rest of it, these would sink pretty quick to the bottom and would flow pretty well but always at the bottom of the oil

it started to rain pretty hard at this point otherwise id have taken a picture but based on that description does that sound ok or something to look in to more?

[TomsFocus]

Darren, don't suppose you can remember the Ford part number of the oil filter?

[Captain Haddock]

These are all for Mk2.5 1.6Tdci (2008-2011) and Finis codes were current as of 25/09/2014; which is when I last changed my oil; changed every 6000 miles since I do 25% local (30mph or less), 75% motorway (60mph max. on M42) everyday.

Finis Description
1145962 1.6Tdci Sump Plug Copper Washer
1146063 1.6Tdci Sump Plug
1359941 1.6Tdci oil Filter (includes sealing ring)
1848220 1.6Tdci Air Filter (was previously 1496204,1708877)

Bonus Item
1229959 1.6Tdci EGR Valve Gasket

[TomsFocus]

Brilliant, thanks Rob. :D

[TomsFocus]

Any idea if the PSA equivalent is identical? Being both DV6 engines I'd assume them to be, but can get genuine PSA ones cheaper than genuine Ford!

1109AY is the part number.

[Dee_82]

found this wee gem just there which might help someone ID carbon issues before they become an issue

attached and linked

http://www.theturboguy.com/uploads/1/0/3/5/10358883/api-presentation_1.6_hdi_carbon_issues-3-2.pdf

api-presentation_1.6_hdi_carbon_issues-3-2.pdf