Advice On Gearbox Issues

[barbs706]

Hi all,

I have a 2011 Ford Mondeo 1.6 Diesel Econetic that has done 94,000 miles.

I was looking at replacing the clutch soon as the biting point is very high. It is not slipping, but its uncomfortably high. But I am now experiencing some gearbox issues too.

When engine braking in 2nd and 3rd gear, there is a dull whine coming from the gearbox. Also, when changing gear at low rpm, there is a single knock noise once the gear engages; almost like the gearbox is mounted loose. 1st and 2nd gear change can be a bit clumpy also.

Would it be more cost effective to:

Buy a reconditioned gearbox and swap it with the current

Buy a used gearbox, get it reconditioned and swap it with the current

Or drop the current gearbox, get that reconditioned and fit back onto the car. (I will have to rent a car while this is being done!)

I am planning on taking the car abroad next year so have got the timing belt changed as it was passed Ford's recommended interval, but the gearbox concerns me a little!

If anyone has any advice, it will be much appreciated!

[barbs706]

Some bits from ETIS if that helps...

Engine: 1.6L Duratorq CR TC (115ps) - DV6

Transmission: 6 Speed Manual TR/AX - MMT6

[BOF]

I'm not very aware of the detail of the 1.6 econetic, so there is a bit of guesswork/interpolation going on here, however:

...looking at replacing the clutch soon as the biting point is very high...

Yes, but it might not be the clutch itself, but the hydraulics. I suggest that someone who knows what they are doing checks this out before you commit serious money to fixing it.

Also, when changing gear at low rpm, there is a single knock noise once the gear engages; almost like the gearbox is mounted loose...

Not necessarily the gearbox mounting (which would probably be the engine mounting, really); this is an effect that can happen as synchromesh wears or the oil gets 'worn'.

Would it be more cost effective to:

Buy a reconditioned gearbox and swap it with the current

Buy a used gearbox, get it reconditioned and swap it with the current

Or drop the current gearbox, get that reconditioned and fit back onto the car. (I will have to rent a car while this is being done!)

Don't do anything expensive before you know that you are correcting a problem that needs correcting. I'd get the actuation for the clutch checked, if nothing else because if the clutch isn't operating correctly, it can make changing gear difficult and create spurious problems. If that seems ok but the problem persists, then I'd get ready to change the clutch, because the DMF/Clutch thingies don't have as long a life as you'd hope and you must be getting towards the expected lifetime of yours.

The other thing that I'd try would be changing the gearbox oil as that might be responible for the "dull whine" and it might be responsible for the clunking when changing the lower gears (although that could also be the 'clutch bite point', if the clutch is dragging) and it would be relatively cheap.

Only then would it be 'swap the gearbox' time, as far as I'm concerned. I think the 'hire a car...' option is going to be expensive, unless you can get the car cheaply. I'd honestly be thinking of getting a secondhand gearbox and giving it a go (with fresh oil). Gearboxes, these days, tend to have a pretty decent life, except for the exceptional cases in which something breaks, so I'd think that the odds were pretty decent on getting a good 'box, particularly if it is off a lower mileage car...maybe, it would come with a clutch, maybe not (given that these are 'wear out' items, it might not be a good idea, but visual inspection ought to show the condition).

That said, I really don't know about the prices of re-con 'boxes. They are a low demand item these days and the world is no longer full of gearbox re-conditioners.

[flying clutchman]

the first thing as far as the knock is concerned would be to check mountings. This could also account for the whine as, if the mounting rubber is worn the two metal components can touch, transmitting noise through the body. I'm thinking particularly of the stabiliser at the back of the gearbox. The knock could also be coming from the dmf which generally tends not to last for huge mileages. This should be changed with the clutch anyway. On the subject of hydraulics, faulty hydraulics won't give you a high pedal, only a low one. I certainly wouldn't jump into relacing the gearbox, check out the simple things first.