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That's sad to hear about the robbery! On our former Mk1,5 Focus it happened 2 times (stereo stolen both times), so I remember very well how "fun" it was...

Hopefully the loss of things inside the car isn't that bad for you and you get the car fixed soon enough :smile:

...and I'm looking forward to see those 18"s in action! 

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sorry to hear about to break in fella. on a better note the wheels look good and have you any pics with the wheels on the car please?

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The car is currently at the bodyshop for repair. The door card has already been repaired and if all went as planned the door and quarter panel should have been repainted today.

I hope to get the car back next wednesday.

 

I plan to install the new wheels within 2 weeks from now. First I am going to give the front and rear disc brakes a good clean and repaint the (red) brake calipers.

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Sorry to hear about the break in bud, a lot of nasty people out there.

when you fitted your satnav screen did you have to make any wire modifications? I am in the process of doing mine on a 2016 fiesta. 

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I had to add 2 wires to the existing wiring when I retrofitted the original Satnav system. The following 2 wires were missing:

Radio unit Connector C1 Pin 4 (NAV AUDIO IN +)  to display (FCDIM) Connector C1 Pin 6 (AUDIO LINE OUT +)

Radio unit connector C1 Pin 5 (NAV AUDIO IN -)  to display (FCDIM) Connector C1 pin 12 (AUDIO LINEOUT -)

 

However this may be a bit different on a Fiesta.

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Unfortunately the bodyshop who repaired my car did have a different quality level than I do. After repair I expect the car to be in exactly the same state as it was before the break in and do not accept anything less. The repainted body parts look great but other parts of the repair are below expectations. I do no longer want them to touch my car so today I agreed they supply new parts which I am going to install myself.

After 1,5 week of misery it was time for something positive today. This evening I installed the new 18 Inch wheels.

After the steel winter wheels were removed I cleaned the brakes and all mating faces and applied a fresh layer of red heat resistant paint onto the brake calipers.

 

XEDSXag.jpg

o0UCG4H.jpg

 

Iam very happy with the result. These wheels look very nice on a Focus MK3.

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3c5Q4wu.jpg

HuGHeus.jpg

zwlQ4Im.jpg

0QTurYG.jpg

SyycZig.jpg

7ybxOLS.jpg

   

These wheels do indeed look awesom on the Focus MK3. The only disadvantage is the (lack of) rim flange protection. The Dunlop Sport Max RT2 tyres do have a relative small rim flange protection. Combined with the relative large rim flange design of the wheels there is only a minor rim flange protection.

 

After the break in 2 weeks ago I decided to install the original alarm system for some extra protection. After I got my car back from the bodyshop last week I checked the wiring of the car. My car turned out to have most of the wiring in place. Only the single wire from the BCM to the bonnet lock is missing.

I already ordered all parts that are needed to retrofit the original alarm system.

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The specifications and features of the different trim levels are different between most European markets. My car is a German spec. Champions Edition. Back in 2013 the factory fitted alarm system was a €375,- optional extra in Germany. This option was only available on the Trend, Champions Edition and Titanium trim levels. At that time the factory fitted alarm system was not even available in the Netherlands.

The Champions Edition is more or less a hybrid version of the Trend (the equivalent of the Zetec trim level) and the Titanium trim level. The Champions Edition is based on the Trend trim level but also has a lot of Titanium features. My car has the Premium center console and the Titanium seats for example. However the upholstery is different from the Titanium and was only available on the Champions Edition.

 

 

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A few weeks ago the bodyshop who repaired my car after the break in really screwed up. The paint job looks great but all other parts of the repair were below expectations.

In their quotation to the insurance company they offered to have the deep scratches on top of the door panel repaired invisible by a specialist. However during this repair invisible repair turned out not to be possible. The scratches were simply too deep and the structure of the plastic on top of the doorpanel could not be restored completely. Because of this the body shop decided to install a brand new door panel which they ordered from a local Ford dealer.

When the car was finished I collected the car from them first thing in the morning and drove to work (less than a mile away from the bodyshop). During closer inspection the new doorpanel turned out to have 2 small but deep cuts on top. After I phoned the bodyshop they asked me to show it to them after work and offered an invisible repair of the 2 cuts. When I drove home I noticed that the rear tweeter did not work correctly so at home I decided to remove the door panel and change the tweeter. However after I removed the door panel I discovered that the bodyshop drilled a hole for the tweeter which was way too big. They tried to fix this with a lot of epoxy glue. Not the quality standard that I was expecting.

The next morning I drove to the bodyshop to have a talk about this issue. After a talk with the office employee he called the shop manager to have a look at the door panel. This guy turned out to be not very customer friendly. He said that they did a good job. After I said that my definition of "a good job" was clearly completely different from his he got ***** off and walked away inside the shop. Next he tried to buy me off with my original door panel they attempted to repair. After I refused this they finally offered to order a brand new door panel and tweeter. Because I did not want them to even touch my car again I offered to install the parts myself.

 

The next week I collected the parts from them.

 

DnDzJsV.jpg

KFMbf5s.jpg

 

This is a MK3.5 door panel. The MK3 doorpanel is no longer available and is replaced by the MK3.5 door panel. The only difference between the MK3 and MK3.5 door panel is the additional sound insulation. 

 

pJsdOSw.jpg

5ThotWT.jpg

dN0EOtu.jpg

 

Because my car did originally not have the rear tweeters and the parts were ordered based on the VIN number the door panel came without the hole for the tweeter. So I had to make the hole myself. Not a big problem cause I did this before. After 15 minutes of drilling and filing the tweeter fitted perfectly inside the hole. A lot better than the failed attempt of the bodyshop.

 

A few days earlier I noticed a small sound of shattering glass from the particular door. When the door panel was still removed I decided to remove the speaker and have a look inside the door. When I looked inside the door I was quite shocked. The bodyshop replaced the side window but left a lot of the old broken glass inside the door. in an attempt to stop the pieces of glass from shattering they sprayed a considerably amount of wax inside the door. The combination of wax and glass was literally covering some of the draining holes at the bottom of the door. I removed all wax and glass by using a brush and industrial solvent. Afterwards I applied a generous layer of protecting conservation wax.

 

After all repairs were finished I retrofitted the original perimeter alarm system. My car did have most of the wiring. the only part of the wiring that turned out to be missing was the bonnet lock wiring. 

To retrofit the original perimeter alarm system I only needed the following parts:

* Relay. (on stock).

* Fuse. (on stock).

* Alarm horn. (Ebay)

* Roof console with mounting holes for the ultrasonic sensors. (new from Ford).

* Ultrasonic sensors with control module. (Ebay).

* Bonnet lock with position switch. (new from AliExpress)

 

As an alternative for the original Focus MK3 Alarm horn I used a Mondeo MK3 alarm horn. These can be found for very little money and fit perfectly after some modifications to the mounting bracket. The bonnet lock I bought from AliExpress is basically an aftermarket part. However it is a 100% copy of the original part and the quality is very good. Initially I planned only to use the position switch and install it to my original bonnet lock. However because of the excellent quality and fitment I decided to change the complete lock.

After I activated the alarm system functions in the Central car Configuration the perimeter alarm system is fully functional.

 

 

 

 

 

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On 24.09.2016 г. at 10:17 PM, JW1982 said:

The module I installed has part number D1BT-14D212-LA

The module did have software version E1BT-14D544-AK which is known as V5.8. After I updated the module it has software version E1BT-14D544-AL which is known as V5.9.

 

I used the following configuration parameters to reconfigure the module:

7D0-01-01    111F 88C0 0354
7D0-01-02    4000 001A
7D0-02-01    044E 4C00 0078
7D0-02-02    00DB
7D0-03-01    0000 0000 00DB

I compared the AS-BUILT data of several 2014 Focus MK3 versions with SYNC 1.1 and about 95% of these vehicles had this configuration.

 

Hello JW 1982, thanks for the great topic and the great job you have done. I need some help for Sync 1.1. I accidentally got from Ebay the same Sync module as yours from Fiesta mk7.5 with part number D1BT-14D212-LA. I updated the software to version 5.9 and changed it AS-BUILT data as yours:

7D0-01-01    111F 88C0 0354
7D0-01-02    4000 001A
7D0-02-01    044E 4C00 0078
7D0-02-02    00DB
7D0-03-01    0000 0000 00DB

Everything works except two things that annoy me. 

The first APIМ module records the following error:

===APIM DTC U0452:00-0B===
Code: U0452 - Invalid Data Received From Restraints Control Module

Status: 
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Accessory Protocol Interface Module

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The second thing is that always whenever the engine switch is turned on, this message is always heard.

 

 

I think the error that writes the module and the message that comes out is connected. Probably I have to change something in AS-BUILT to deactivate the Emergency Assistant.
I ask for some advice from you.

 

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I assume your car does not have Emergency Assistance. Early SYNC 1.0 vehicles did not have Emergency Assistance as standard. Emergency Assistance requires the GPSM module. The GPSM module is only present on vehicles with Emergency Assistance.

As far as I am aware SYNC 1.1 vehicles do always have Emergency Assistance. Installing a SYNC 1.1 module is in a SYNC 1.0 vehicle without a GPSM module results in the problems you describe. As far as I know this can only be solved by changing the configuration of the module using the Direct Config functionality of the Russian UCDS software. 

 

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I already asked in the Russian forum, they gave me a few AS-BUILT for APIM which I will test later on. If the problem persists, I will put a GPSM module. I found one at a good price. I will write again what happened.

Тhanks for the help.
 

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Today I've been able to test a few AS-BUILT.
With this all the errors disappeared.

7D0-01-01 019F 0840 03С4
7D0-01-02 4000 001A

7D0-02-01 0452 5300 0083
7D-02-02 00DB

7D0-03-01 024D 0000 002A
My Emergency Assistant disappeared into the Sync menu. At this point it suits me. I will put the GPSМ module and try again with different settings in AS-BUILT.
Once again, thank you for your help!

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After a lot of research and experimenting I finally managed to make a working copy (for personal use only) of the Ford MFD sat nav SD-card.

The Ford MFD system uses sat nav software that is developed by Bosch/Blaupunkt. The MFD system uses TeleAtlas (owned by TomTom) map material on a SD-card. The TeleAtlas map material is specifically encrypted for the Bosch/Blaupunkt software and is completely different from the map material of other TeleAtlas based sat nav systems.

Being developed by Bosch/Blaupunkt the Ford MFD system uses the same copy protection as the old Focus MK2.5 Travelpilot FX system. The copy protection is based on the CID number of the SD-card. Among some other things the CID number contains manufacturer and product type identifiers, date of manufacturing and a serial number. Every SD card basically has its own unique CID number. The map material on the SD-card has the CID number of the card encrypted in the content. The Ford MFD system compares the encrypted CID number with the CID number of the SD-card. The SD-card will only be accepted by the MFD system if the encrypted CID number and the CID number of the card are a match.

This copy protection is very good. Until today the encryption of the SD-card content is not cracked by anyone. Because of this it is not possible to change the encrypted CID number to match the CID number of a new SD-card.

The only other way to bypass this kind of protection is to change the CID number of the new SD-card. However the CID number is a read only file that is written during manufacturing of the SD-card and can not be changed. Some Chinese manufacturers offer the possibility to order SD-cards with a custom CID number specified by the customer. However these manufacturers usually only supply large quantities. Many manufacturers also offer custom labels/stickers on the SD-card. My experience is that many Ford MFD SD-cards that are offered online by unofficial suppliers are not genuine.

 

Last Year someone discovered that some Samsung EVO+ SD-cards contain a bug that makes it possible to change the CID number of the card. A lot of information about this subject can be found online. However this bug is only present on some of the EVO+ SD-cards. The latest generation of EVO+ cards do no longer contain this bug. Finding a suitible EVO+ SD-card is a bit of a challenge. Some people mentioned that the bug was also present on some other Samsung cards but I personally can not confirm this.

Based on the EVO+ bug someone wrote the evo_plus.git program which makes it possible to change the CID number of the EVO+ card. There are some guides online that describe the evo_plus procedure. These guides are based on performing the program on a laptop with a linux operating system. The laptop needs to have an internal card reader that is connected to a PCI-E socket. USB card readers (internal or external) are not suitible.

i read about this subject some time ago but because I did not have a suitible EVO+ SD-card I never attempted to try it out. Last week I ran into 3 previous generation EVO+ SD-cards at a large consumer electronics store. Despite being a gamble I decided to buy all 3 cards.

Unfortunately my laptop turned out to have an internal USB connected card reader. After a lot of research I developed my own method to run the evoplus_cid program on an old android device. After a lot of experimenting I managed to succesfully change the CID of the EVO+ SD-card. This way I was able to make a perfect copy of the original Ford MFD SD-card. 

After testing the new SD-card turned out to be fully functional. Another advantage of the EVO+ card is that the read/write speed is a lot faster than the original Ford MFD SD-card. Because the system operates a bit faster. Especially recalculating routes during navigation is considerably faster.

 

I used the following EVO+ SD-card:

 

u0H3tyT.jpg

x7dJpRn.jpg

This class 10 micro SD-card has a reading speed of up to 80 MB/s and a writing speed of up to 20 MB/s. The micro SD-card itself is labeled EVO+


Model: MB-MC32D Model Code: MB-MC32DA/EU
Made in Philippines.

 

 

Newer generation EVO+ SD-cards which (mentioned by other people) do no longer contain the bug can be identified by a different packaging and a different text on the micro SD card.

 

nP79ZlT.jpg

HeXvQpv.jpg

This class 10 micro SD-card has a reading speed of up to 95 MB/s and a writing speed of up to 20 MB/s. The micro SD-card itself is labeled EVOplus instead of EVO+.

 

 

 

This post is for information purposes only. I only describe the technical possibilities to make a working backup copy of an original Ford MFD SD-card that I already own. This copy is only intended for my personal use which is completely legal. 

 

 

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The procedure to change the CID number of the EVO+ SD-card is not that difficult. Gaining root access to the Android device is the first important step. If you can do this (or already have a rooted device) the rest should be no problem.

I am currently working on a guide which describes the exact procedure I followed.

However I do not plan to put my guide on a public website. I do not want other people to earn money by using a guide I made. When I finish the guide it will only be supplied to a limited number of enthusiasts that I trust.

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Thats really handy, ability to backup my card would be good.. even the performance difference would be an advantage.. really well done on this.

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Hi JW1982.

I have a question about sync 1.1. Do you have voice management on your radio? For example, if you say "FM" or "AM" is the radio started? Can you also choose radio frequency with voice? I can only command USB drive and bluetooth audio.

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The SYNC 1.0/1.1 Voicecontrol functionality only supports the phone and media (bluetooth Audio, USB) functions.

Radio, CD, satnav and Climate Control functions are not supported by the SYNC 1.0/1.1 Voicecontrol functionality.

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OK thank you for the answer. I also guessed, but I decided to ask to be 100% sure. There is a guy in the Russian forum who installed SYNC 1.1 and did not work his voice commands for the radio. They tell him he has to put the Headunit from Focus 3.5 or Kuga2 and work. The man has placed from Kuga2 and submits that he can switch to the radio by voice.

 

94aa3b30b708c2051982556519544971.jpg

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A few weeks ago at the start of my summer vacation I managed to damage one of my wheels.

Like every Year I booked a parking space at Schiphol (Amsterdam) airport Months ago. I always book a parking space at a secured parking facility very close to the departure/arrival hall. A bit more expensive than a regular parking space but it also gives a bit more peace of mind during vacation.

When I arrived at night at the parking facility it was pretty dark inside the parking garage. About half of the lights were dimmed (I guess to reduce electricity). In a dark tight bend I managed to hit a concrete kerbstone. This kerbstone was painted black which made it almost invisible. 

After a well spent vacation at Fuerteventura Spain I returned to the parking garage. Fortunately the tyre was still inflated. However when I drove home I immediately noticed vibrations through the steering wheel. Some further investigation confirmed that the wheel was slightly bend. 

 

After I cleaned the wheel and removed the chipped paint the damage turned out to be not too bad.

xu25eK5.jpg

Pk2FcgU.jpg

 

A few days later I got quotes of different specialized companies to have the wheel straightened and repainted. At the end the price difference between repair of the damaged wheel and a brand new alloy wheel turned out to be pretty small. Because the wheels are less than 5 months old and I do not want any color difference or paint texture difference I decided to order a new alloy wheel.

One week later I had the tyre changed to the new alloy wheel.

WpiHUSC.jpg

 

Last week I straightened the wheel at work. The wheel is perfectly straight now. I am going to repaint the damage and after repair this wheel will be used as a spare wheel.

 

 

  

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This week I own the car for 3 Years so within the next few weeks it is time for its annual service. As usual i will perform the service myself according to the Ford specifications using OEM Ford parts.

In participation of the service I did a parts inventory a few weeks ago and noticed that the rear windscreen wiper had seen better days. However I do not really like the (outdated) design of the stock rear windscreen wiper so I decided to search for an alternative. Some Ford models like for example the latest S-Max/Galaxy, Kuga/Escape and Explorer have a different design rear wiper arm with a flatblade wiper. However despite being the similar design the length of the wiper arm and wiper blade are different between these models.

After some research I expected the rear wiper arm of the latest Kuga/Escape to be a direct fit to the Focus MK3. 

 

AHZ6WIF.jpg

 

After some searching on Ebay I found a seller located in the USA who offered a new OEM Ford Escape rear wiper arm and wiper blade for a very competitive price. 

This week I received the rear windscreen wiper so today I decided to check the fitment of the rear wiper.

 

IujjShd.jpg

fVV5FKE.jpg

 

As expected the Kuga/Escape wiper arm turned ou to be a perfect fit to my Focus MK3. The wiper blade of the Kuga/Escape is 11 Inch while the one of the focus MK3 Hatchback is 12 Inch. In the future I may possibly change the wiper blade for a 12 inch version or maybe even a 13 inch version.

 

 

 

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This week I own the car for 3 Years so within the next few weeks it is time for its annual service. As usual i will perform the service myself according to the Ford specifications using OEM Ford parts.
In participation of the service I did a parts inventory a few weeks ago and noticed that the rear windscreen wiper had seen better days. However I do not really like the (outdated) design of the stock rear windscreen wiper so I decided to search for an alternative. Some Ford models like for example the latest S-Max/Galaxy, Kuga/Escape and Explorer have a different design rear wiper arm with a flatblade wiper. However despite being the similar design the length of the wiper arm and wiper blade are different between these models.
After some research I expected the rear wiper arm of the latest Kuga/Escape to be a direct fit to the Focus MK3. 
 
AHZ6WIF.jpg
 
After some searching on Ebay I found a seller located in the USA who offered a new OEM Ford Escape rear wiper arm and wiper blade for a very competitive price. 
This week I received the rear windscreen wiper so today I decided to check the fitment of the rear wiper.
 
IujjShd.jpg
fVV5FKE.jpg
 
As expected the Kuga/Escape wiper arm turned ou to be a perfect fit to my Focus MK3. The wiper blade of the Kuga/Escape is 11 Inch while the one of the focus MK3 Hatchback is 12 Inch. In the future I may possibly change the wiper blade for a 12 inch version or maybe even a 13 inch version.
 
 
 
Looks good might have to do this myself.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

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