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Changed Clutch On 02 Focus And Now Can't Select A Gear


the_fisk
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So I've just finished fitting a new clutch and slave cylinder in my 02 plate focus and after bleeding I can't get it into gear when it's running. I tried bleeding again and more bubbles appeared but no matter how much I bled it, it still wasn't working. I tried starting it in gear and the bite point was practically on the floor.

Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong with it?

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There's no signs of a leak on the drivers mat

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Yeah I fitted the new one along with the new clutch. It was fitted as per the haynes manual description

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Curious.

How do the brakes feel?

I do believe that the clutch and brakes share a common reservoir.

Maybe a brake bleed would help.

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Yeah they do share the same reservoir, I've just felt the breaks and I think they are a little spongy (not really felt one before) but there was definitely a bit of give in the peddle after the break had bit

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Can't hurt to bleed the brakes and see if that helps.

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Ok so i've just bled a brake and went through a litre of fluid and there was still bubbles coming out. I'm guessing that means maybe the master cylinder has gone?

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Have you put the clutch plate in the correct way round or are you locking the bleed nipple off correctly after bleeding if not locked right down it will draw air back in .

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clutch has nothing to do with brakes other than sharing reservoir, to bleed clutch properly you need a vacuum pump, and basically just suck the fluid through without operating the clutch pedal,

the first thing to check carefully is the little o ring on the end of clutch pressure line that goes in to slave cyl is still there,it probably is still in the old slave cyl

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The earlier focus should bleed very easily. This is because the cylinder (aluminium not plastic) has a floating ball valve in it, so as long as you get most of the air out it bleeds itself. The way to bleed the csc properly is as follows.

Make sure the reservoir is topped up to the brim. Disconnect the pipe from the slave and allow fluid to dribble out for about 5 seconds. Reconnect pipe, place one-way bleed tube on nipple and open bleed nipple. Pump pedal up and down about 4 or 5 times. Close bleed nipple, pump pedal. Pressure should be up now. repeat bleeding if neccessary. If you have good pressure but the clutch still doesn't work the fault is in the clutch unit. Either the clutch is faulty or you have fitted the centre disc the wrong way round. If pressure is still not right (it will feel lighter than before clutch change) then maybe the master cylinder is faulty. The brakes have nothing to do with the clutch operation. If you examine the reservoir you will see there are two seperate chambers in it. It is in effect two reservoirs with one filler opening. The metal cylinder with metal pipework doesn't have the little o-ring on the end (although it's something to watch out for at the m/c end!) so it's not that. What make of parts have you used?

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Ok so i've replaced the o ring and got the pressure up in the clutch as I borrowed a pressure bleed kit from a friend. Still not working. The new clutch I fitted was a quitin hazel one. But surely if I had fitted the disc the wrong way around then the bell housing wouldn't have closed properly?

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Can't say I'm a fan of QH clutch kits, ideally you want LUK ot Sachs. If you fit the centre plate back to front it won't affect the fitting at all. It just affects the operation of the clutch. On some cars it will even work when it's the wrong way round. Pressure bleeding of concentrics is specifically mentioned in the instructions as something to avoid as it can blow the seals (not quite sure how but I have seen it done). It can't be very often that the pressure gained can be greater than normal clutch pedal pressure, but I didn't write the instructions! If you've got pressure on the pedal then something's wrong with the clutch.

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