Mondeo Tdci 2004 More Cutout Problems All Fixed Now

[Dave May]

My previous cutout problem was when overtaking and was caused by low fuel pressure ( or fuel starvation ) in the common fuel rail due to worn out leakback valves in the injectors All OK when driving up to 60 mph and cured by reconditioning the injectors which is really just renewing the leakback valves inside the injectors. Read more in my forum write-up ( top of the list )

I now have a new cutout problem (flashing glowplug and instant engine off ) and was more difficult to fix. When I started to investigate my previous overtaking problem I changed the usual Camshaft Position Sensor WHICH DID NOT CURE ANYTHING then I found the injectors were the cause.

This time I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor WHICH AGAIN DID NOT CURE THE PROBLEM.

Note: These Crankshaft Position Sensors are difficult to find if you don’t know where to look. Take out the battery and battery box also take out the air cleaner box complete ( 2 minute jobs ). You will find the cable to the sensor behind the silver EGR pipe and the sensor is very easy to change from the top ( not under the car ).

I noticed in the morning when the engine was cold it took about 5 miles before cutout occurred. It would not start straight away but after waiting about 2 minutes it would start again but then not last long.

I suspected a heat problem so took out the engine thermostat but it still cutout after same time. I disconnected the cylinder head temperature sensor ( same sensor for reading the gauge on instrument panel ) but still no difference.

When trying to start I loosened the high pressure pipe to one of the injectors and high pressure diesel squirted out. This proved there was no problem with the fuel pump. I was then just about ready to give up and take the car to the scrap yard when I realised I still had the original Camshaft Position Sensor.

I fitted this original Camshaft Position sensor ( black one ) and car started first time and is now fixed. NO MORE CUT OUT PROBLEMS.

The defective Camshaft Position Sensor was purchased NEW on eBay and was the modified Grey type and only lasted just over a year but only cost £ 9.99. If purchased from Fords they are about £40 each but still might not be reliable.

The moral of this story is to purchase 2 of the cheap £ 9.99 Camshaft Position Sensors and keep inside your car together with the socket to fit them. Its less than 5 mins to fit them, right at the front of the engine below the oil filler cap and a bit right . This will save you a lot of aggro and money.

If you need more advice just ask.

Dave

[Thedoctor]

This worked for me. I had stress free motoring then three times in three days she cut out on me. Luckily the fault code hadn't been wiped and it was the camshaft sensor. He cleared the code which, coincidentally, after the car didn't cut out. I changed the camshaft sensor and now it all seems fine! (Fingers crossed) Thanks for the heads up!

What's the point in being grown up if you can't act childish every now and then?!

[PauloSoares]

Good morning, 

I´ve read both articles of this problem but i still have a doubt. 

The first time you did an injectors reconditioning and same time changed the camshaft sensor by a new one you bought in the eBay. 

The problem remains after miles done. 

Then you remember to put again the original sensor and problem solved. 

So the issue was indeed the injectors isn´t that so? 

Is that right?

I have my Mondeo 2.0 Tdci year 2004 130 cv with 400.000 kms and have this issue now.

Glowplug lights on when cross over the 3000 rpm and safe mode.. 😞

Best regards and thanks for help. 

[nicam49]

Hi, welcome to the forum. Ideally you need to buy a good code reader and read the fault code(s) that the ecu has logged. Not just guess at swapping parts. It could  be low fuel pressure.... have you changed the fuel filter lately, that's always a 1st step, and easy and quick to do. 

[jack the mac]

56 minutes ago, PauloSoares said:

Good morning, 

I´ve read both articles of this problem but i still have a doubt. 

The first time you did an injectors reconditioning and same time changed the camshaft sensor by a new one you bought in the ebay. 

The problem remains after miles done. 

Then you remember to put again the original sensor and problem solved. 

So the issue was indeed the injectors isn´t that so? 

Is that right?

I have my Mondeo 2.0 Tdci year 2004 130 cv with 400.000 kms and have this issue now.

Glowplug lights on when cross over the 3000 rpm and safe mode.. 😞

Best regards and thanks for help. 

Is there black smoke, is the engine hesitating?

I had similar issues and it was cured by blanking off the egr valve.

[Dave May]

Hi Paul

When I first had the cut out problems ( October 2013 ), this was ONLY HAPPENING when driving fast or driving more than 70 mph. I tried the usual easy to do cures.

1) Fitting new fuel filter

2) Fitting new camshaft sensor

3) Blanking off the EGR valve

None of the 3 above stopped car cutting out WHEN DRIVING FAST.

I had advice from our local injection repairer who explained this fault is FUEL STARVATION caused by a leaking pressure relief valve in one or more injectors. I then had ALL FOUR injectors repaired by replacing the leak back valves.

My car ran perfectly for the next 7 months, but then starting cutting out AT ANY SPEED even less than 40 mph. That’s when I EVENTUALLY purchased a new camshaft sensor after nearly giving up. So the camshaft sensor I purchased in October had a VERY SHORT LIFE  but everything perfect now.

The egr valve is still blanked off, which you should also try.

Also try driving at constant 40mph for 5 miles, if cutting out it’s normally camshaft sensor.

Then try fast driving to prove fuel starvation ( leak back valves )

Hope this helps.

Dave

[PauloSoares]

Hi Dave ,

Many many many thanks on your reply.

My car blocked when i push hard.. between 3000 to 4000 rpm. But I was expecting something to happen a long time ago cause over the last past year when i acelerate a bit hard sometimes i felt a fault like a hiccup. Something like a sudden lost of power ( one second / split) but never happen to cut power as it happens now. So i was judging this could be something related to injectors being dirt and in consequence lack of fuel in the chambers or as you said in the return / back injection tubes. 

So for now, i allready bought the camshaft sensor and this next weekend i will replace it myself, also check and clean the turbo actuator and Mass air Sensor, and the EGR valve.

Nest i will go to a Bosch car service (injection specialists) and order them to chek all injection system. Hope all this solve the problem. 

By now the car is running in safe mode and i don´t know how to backwards this safe mode... i disconect the negative cable but it´s still the same. 

Leaving some photos of my "love". 

 

 

 

 

The gear was after replaced to an original one. 🙂 as you see above

 

 

Right now with a new double din assembled by me. 

 

 

 

[Dave May]

Hi Paul

Nice looking car, nearly as good as my one.

If you purchase a code reader from eBay ( see pic) you will be able to get fault codes yourself and get rid of the warning light on your dash.
Don’t forget to get the blanking plate they are only about £3 from euro car parts or any car accessory shop, there are lots of sizes so get the right one. Try all 3 easy to do cures first, you might not have to get the injectors checked, but it could be a faulty leak back valve. Let us all know what fixes it.

Best Regards

Dave

[unofix]

Use FORScan (it's free) to read all Ford DTC's

https://forscan.org/download.html

[Dave May]

Paul.

My car is an automatic and the gearbox is bolted directly to the engine. Your pics show you have a MANUAL gearbox where the gearbox is RUBBER MOUNTED to the engine. This has proved to be NOT A GOOD IDEA as the rubber mount gets very weak after a few years and starts to vibrate and rubs the CRANKSHAFT SENSOR causing jerking and eventually cutting out.

Have you checked the CRANKSHAFT SENSOR it should be clean and not covered with iron dust.

To find the crankshaft sensor, remove the battery and battery box that’s only 5 minute jobs. You will then see a 25mm diameter silver pipe. Follow the electric cable under this pipe to the crankcase sensor. It’s easy to get out from the top NOT under the car. Then check for iron dust. Cost of new rubber mount was £600 a few years ago, That’s why I recommend automatic gearboxes but be very careful and DO NOT get a POWERSHIFT gearbox the TORQUE CONVERTER gearbox is the best.

Please read my info on these two gearboxes on FOC or type on Google 

“ AUTOMATIC GEARBOX or POWERSHIFT you should understand the difference before buying”

Regards

Dave
 

[Dave May]

Not quite correct explanation above, correction below.

1) Manual cars have the FLYWHEEL rubber mounted to the engine. The flywheel vibrates due to the weak rubber mount and the rotating magnet fitted into the flywheel that operates the crankshaft sensor scrapes the sensor and damages it.

2) Automatic car have FLYWHEEL bolted directly to the engine so no problems with crankshaft sensor.

Hope this explains it better.

Dave

 

 

 

[PauloSoares]

Good morning, 

I Change the Camshaft Sensor and clean the MAF sensor and tubes all over. No tube is out of place or loose.

I also washed the engine a week ago to look for any leaks anywhere and after a week running there´s nothing to point.

Car is running normally, the engine still works like a swiss clock. This weekend i acellerate till 140 kmh per hour and no lights on or any strange symptom. Nothing except one thing..

The turbo isn´t there.. not working. And my car doesn´t have a turbo like the ones i´ve been reading in foruns with that "actuator" to clean. My turbo is very different. 

 

Is this one: 

 

 

 

 

I place the car to a friendly mechanic that has a local shop here and after some testing he managed to do, he states that the wastegate valve works very "lightly" and smooth.. 

Can´t quite understand what he mean to lightly or smooth but he told me to start cheking the MAF has the first thing to do. 

So.. cause my car is my car and i love it the most and i don´t have any patience with the incompetence of the FORD Local dealers here, i allready ordered a new MAF, an EGR and a Crankshaft sensor. These are my next steps in order to see if i can solve something...

Next weekend i´m going to change this three parts and see what comes up.

Till then all your support and opinions on other things to do is very very welcome.

Thanks to all persons that are following this post and giving support. 

Big Hugs to all.

 

 

[PauloSoares]

Another thing..

Let me see if i get this right to check code errors:

If i understand well i need to download the Forscan to a laptop :

FORScan for Windows v2.3.46

and buy this cable to connect the car central to the laptop?

https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-ex/?ref=forscan

Then run the software and reset the errors

IS that so? 

 

[unofix]

Yes .... kind of but ...

The latest version of FORScan is really better used with the new vLinker FS lead otherwise you will get communication errors. You can still use the older ELM327 lead and just ignore the errors.

Check the FORScan site and it will show you the links for your country where you can buy the vLinker FS cable.

download: https://forscan.org/download.html

[Dave May]

Paul

 Did you fit the blanking plate, my Mondeo is 2004 and with blanking plate fitted I have had no problems at all with egr valve and still passes MOT emissions test. Newer Mondeo’s might need a small 6mm hole drilled in the blanking plate as a warning light could show up on the dash.

I have never tried Forscan so cannot say how easy it is to use but the AL401 from eBay works fine for me and is complete with the cable.

When you accelerated to 80 MPH  and you say loss of turbo are you sure it is not fuel starvation caused by leaking injector valves and engine going to Limp Mode. When this happened to me I just slowed to 50mph then switched engine off / on to reset Limp Mode. I now have nearly 200,000 miles on my car and never had any turbo problems and still automatic gearbox is perfect  and also timing chain has never been changed. 
  
Sadiq Khan is banning all old diesel cars inside the M25 at end of 2023 so that will be the end for my Mondeo.

Dave

 

 

I

 

[PauloSoares]

10 hours ago, Dave May said:

When you accelerated to 80 MPH  and you say loss of turbo are you sure it is not fuel starvation caused by leaking injector valves and engine going to Limp Mode. When this happened to me I just slowed to 50mph then switched engine off / on to reset Limp Mode. I now have nearly 200,000 miles on my car and never had any turbo problems and still automatic gearbox is perfect  and also timing chain has never been changed. 

Hi Dave, 

I´m not sure if it is something related to to the injector back pipes or valves. Might be one possibility i wal allready warned to that by a diesel specialist in "Bosch" injections services. He warned me about Fuel back pipes (?)... i´m not sure if i´m spelling well. 

Pipes that will return the excess of fuel to somewhere..  i´m lost here. 

Anyway as my car is about 400.000 kms and i allready change  the camshaft sensor i´m going to also change the MAF, the EGR and the Crankshaft sensor cause new parts are welcome to the car even if they are not damage .These parts have 400.000 kms so i think it´s time to change it anyway. 

I will also download the Forscan and check the errors registered. 

Form this point we have a start don´t you think? Do you agree with this procedure? 

Big hug my friend. 

 

[PauloSoares]

11 hours ago, unofix said:

Yes .... kind of but ...

The latest version of FORScan is really better used with the new vLinker FS lead otherwise you will get communication errors. You can still use the older ELM327 lead and just ignore the errors.

Check the FORScan site and it will show you the links for your country where you can buy the vLinker FS cable.

download: https://forscan.org/download.html

Good morning UNofix!

Many thanks i will order the Vlinker form eBay cause in Portugal there´s no shop seeling this.

Big hug

[Dave May]

On 3/3/2022 at 1:48 PM, Dave May said:

Hi Paul

When I first had the cut out problems ( October 2013 ), this was ONLY HAPPENING when driving fast or driving more than 70 mph. I tried the usual easy to do cures.

1) Fitting new fuel filter

2) Fitting new camshaft sensor

3) Blanking off the EGR valve

None of the 3 above stopped car cutting out WHEN DRIVING FAST.

I had advice from our local injection repairer who explained this fault is FUEL STARVATION caused by a leaking pressure relief valve in one or more injectors. I then had ALL FOUR injectors repaired by replacing the leak back valves.

My car ran perfectly for the next 7 months, but then starting cutting out AT ANY SPEED even less than 40 mph. That’s when I EVENTUALLY purchased a new camshaft sensor after nearly giving up. So the camshaft sensor I purchased in October had a VERY SHORT LIFE  but everything perfect now.

The egr valve is still blanked off, which you should also try.

Also try driving at constant 40mph for 5 miles, if cutting out it’s normally camshaft sensor.

Then try fast driving to prove fuel starvation ( leak back valves )

Hope this helps.

Dave

Slight mistake above, correction below.

“ That’s when I EVENTUALLY fitted the ORIGINAL camshaft sensor after nearly giving up “. The short life camshaft sensor was exchanged for a new one from Transit Parts and that is kept in the glovebox as spare. So my Mondeo still has the factory fitted camshaft position sensor.

Dave

[PauloSoares]

 

I allready change mine but still i bought an original in Ford Dealer. So no arm done i think.

Still have the old one at home. 

[Dave May]

Paul

All injectors have leak back valves, the fuel goes back to the tank,  so cars have 2 fuel pipes one to suck up the fuel and one to drain excessive fuel back to the tank. Think of normal fuel pressure of 20,000 pounds pressure, this is when the leak back valve opens normally to keep 20,000 pressure in the common fuel rail as it must NOT go over 20,000 pounds pressure.  If just ONE leak back valve opens at say 15,000 pressure, the common fuel rail then has only 15,000 pressure and car has fuel starvation and cuts out at high speed.

Regarding Forscan and laptops. Why purchase a laptop, most people use iPads and iPhones these days, can Forscan connect to an iPad. I dumped my laptop years ago. My AL301 is available instantly and plugs into the D type plug under the steering wheel and can clear any dash warning lights and give fault codes that can be typed into google to tell you where fault is, everything very easy.

Dave

[Dave May]

Paul

Just realised you said your car has 400,000 Kms on it , that’s about 240,000 miles and more than my old car.

Your car is a manual and must have had a new DMF that’s a Dual Mass Flywheel by now. This is what I call a rubber mounted flywheel but has expensive springing. Crankshaft sensor gets damaged when DMF is loose.

Check condition of Crankshaft sensor and if you replace it and get same fault after a few months you know it’s the DMF that needs replacing. You can get a fixed flywheel but it might not be good for the engine and transmission if you try wheel spins away from the lights as the DMF gives spring protection.

Dave

[PauloSoares]

Hi Dave

Yes it´s a DMF and still the original one with the clutch original too. 

As for the injectors i will get back to you after change and test the other parts. 

Many thanks dear friend. 

 

 

 

[PauloSoares]

A doubt: 

A modified ELM means that is able to read/work both in MS Can and HS scan ? 

Or that it was modified to work only HS SCAN?

 

It´s better to go look in the car if it is an MS or HS ? 

If my car has a MS scan why buy a ELM modified to HS/SCAN? Doesn´t make sense. 

 

Cause if i read well to acess Engine / ICU and all modules except ACM (Audio) and EATC (Temperature inside car) i only need MS CAN.

 

Sorry for so many doubts but im afraid of messing around with the car and do more damage than it is allready... 😞

And i want to learn for the future. 

[PauloSoares]

It seems to me that the port of my car is an MSCAN.. i don´t know..

 

It has pins to MS CAN and also to HS Scan..

 

 

[PauloSoares]

Good morning dear friends,

Parts arrived...

 

New EGR valve, new Air Flow Sensor and new Crankshaft sensor.. new camshaft sensor allready assembled 15 days ago. 

 

 

 

Forscan installed...

 

 

 

Let´s get to work..

 

See you soon hopeffuly with good news..

 

Best regards