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fiesta_lad

Whats with mk5 fiestas rusting.

14 posts in this topic

Hi all i have a 51 reg mk5 fiesta i have a bit of a rust problem and its kind of doing my head in. the rust is at the bottom of the corner of the drivers door so iam just wondering is this a job for a bodyshop or can i do myself if so what do i need to do it myself iam worrying you see because the winter is only around the corner any one help thanks alan.

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common problem i think, my fiesta rusted badly at the back door in the same place I think you are describing.

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I haven't had such problems with mine yet (Thank god)

Can't you just sand down the rusted part till the rust is gone, spray on some rust proof primer and respray to colour and laquer? Halfords do most Ford colours for about six quid a can, is it a big area?

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Know what you mean, im gonna go get a quote from a bodyshop to repair both my back wheel arches.

They're beyond a DIY repair, just hoping it wont be hundreds and hundreds of ££££'s

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Hi all i will try and take some pictures but at the moment it is lashing down lol at first the rust wasn't that bad but with last winter being really bad with the snow it has gone a bit worser. when sanding it down can you use any sanding paper or is there a special one you have got to use cheers alan. :P

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mk5 fiestas have mega rust problems! and the sills rott out them usually...

think it was either poor metal or bad build design

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Hi all i will try and take some pictures but at the moment it is lashing down lol at first the rust wasn't that bad but with last winter being really bad with the snow it has gone a bit worser. when sanding it down can you use any sanding paper or is there a special one you have got to use cheers alan. :P

The sandpaper depends on what kinda job you wanna do, I use just normal sandpaper you get from Wickes or any DIY store. Then if you wanna good finish you sand down with finer grit paper that I think you could get from DIY stores but I bought mine, overpriced, from Halfords xD To get a smooth finish.

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So i just use any old sanding paper does anyone know how long does this job take cheers alan.

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My old K reg Audi Panzer is about 16 years old and not a chance of rust, it has a galvanised (spelling?) body shell. Any chance modern cars (I wouldn't have a clue) are all like that, or is the new Fiesta? Had a Google search, nada result.

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My old K reg Audi Panzer is about 16 years old and not a chance of rust, it has a galvanised (spelling?) body shell. Any chance modern cars (I wouldn't have a clue) are all like that, or is the new Fiesta? Had a Google search, nada result.

Its the newer face lift from the mk4. i had a k reg clio and not one bit of rust to be seen on her its amazing a 16 year old car with no rust and now ive got a 8 year old car with rust like you say modern cars are not built like the old ones these days.

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So i just use any old sanding paper does anyone know how long does this job take cheers alan.

Again it depends on area size and how good you want the job... I did a rough spray job that looked half decent. Sanded it down beneath rust (10 mins). Cleaned and dried area of dust, dirt, and road crap (5mins). Two coats of primer. And depending on how hot the outside temperature is, denotes how quick it dries, and how quick you put on the next coat on(5mins). Couple of coats of Metallic spray, baring in mind the temperature thingy again (5mins) Couple of coats lacquering (5mins)

So all in all, allow about half hour to and hour.

Try and spray it in a dust, and wind free enviroment. And mask slightly OUTSIDE spraying area so you don't end up with straight line spray marks from the masking tape.

Make sure you shake cans well, and also it helps to sit them in warm water for 10 minutes to breakdown the paint inside the can so it spreads easier. If you need any tutorials there's hundreds on Google =]

The best thing you can do for your car is to read the instructions on the back of the can =P... Just remember the warm water because it doesn't tell you that on can. But pay attention to spraying distances, etc.

The masking tape should be low adhesive, but that stuff costs alotta money, just tear a bit of normal masking tape off and stick it to your trousers and pull it off. Do it a few times and you have low adhesive tape =P

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Again it depends on area size and how good you want the job... I did a rough spray job that looked half decent. Sanded it down beneath rust (10 mins). Cleaned and dried area of dust, dirt, and road crap (5mins). Two coats of primer. And depending on how hot the outside temperature is, denotes how quick it dries, and how quick you put on the next coat on(5mins). Couple of coats of Metallic spray, baring in mind the temperature thingy again (5mins) Couple of coats lacquering (5mins)

So all in all, allow about half hour to and hour.

Try and spray it in a dust, and wind free enviroment. And mask slightly OUTSIDE spraying area so you don't end up with straight line spray marks from the masking tape.

Make sure you shake cans well, and also it helps to sit them in warm water for 10 minutes to breakdown the paint inside the can so it spreads easier. If you need any tutorials there's hundreds on Google =]

The best thing you can do for your car is to read the instructions on the back of the can =P... Just remember the warm water because it doesn't tell you that on can. But pay attention to spraying distances, etc.

The masking tape should be low adhesive, but that stuff costs alotta money, just tear a bit of normal masking tape off and stick it to your trousers and pull it off. Do it a few times and you have low adhesive tape =P

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Cheers thank you very much you been a great help i will give it a go once the weather is dry thank you.

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Weather in the UK dry? lol. Anyway good luck, stick some pics up when your done =]

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Weather in the UK dry? lol. Anyway good luck, stick some pics up when your done =]

Ok will do i will do a before and after see what u all think

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