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1.6 Tdci Regen From Cold Start?????


tazzman600
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On my way to work within 1 mile of travel I noticed my car running like a bag of nails as if it was running on 3 pots. So I continue my near 5 mile journey with higher than normal revs (between 2 and 2 1/2 thousand revs. When I park up I notice my auto stop not working and when I switched off I noticed the cooling fan in operation. I felt the back of my exhaust and it was hot.

Did my car just do a regen? If so how can that happen on an engine barely started!

Opinions please.

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I've noticed that my focus has done a few regen's recently after fairly short journeys.

I hope there aren't any problems - everything seems to be running ok, I put it down to the fact dpf maybe getting dirty quicker with shorter/lower rev journeys???

(Not clued up on whole dpf/regen stuff)

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Yes you have a point. Tho I'm flumoxed as it never happened to my 3 previous Fords and with the same journeys. At weekends I do a 40 mile motorway run each way so that again flumoxes me.

Will the eml 327 reader from my tit x sport 2.2 tdci mondeo suit my focus?

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Short journeys kill D.P.F.'s sooner rather than later.

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Yeah I know that from reading many posts on talkford. That's why I asked if my EML327 reader from my previous mondy will work on my current focus.

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Short journeys kill D.P.F.'s sooner rather than later.

I generally do alot of miles (i've done around 5k since middle of march) & this is a 60/40 split of motorways/town driving.

Other than a light on the dash what's the signs of dpf wearing/failing/starting to fail?

I've never had motor with one before, I'm have a 6hr drive to the Highlands on sat so I'm sure that will help with the cleaning.

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bare in mind that even motorway trips will not always do the job, especially if you have a 6 speed box, its not about how fast you go, its about how hot the engine gets and the length of time it runs at it, if your pottering about at 1800RPM in 5th gear doing 60, don't expect passive regens to work, DPF cars really should have a bunch of questions asked before they are sold so that people buying them know the score, of course if people knew the score with them then they wouldn't shift any

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I found getting her up to 2500 3000 RPM for about 20 min did the job until I permanently fixed the issue

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bare in mind that even motorway trips will not always do the job, especially if you have a 6 speed box, its not about how fast you go, its about how hot the engine gets and the length of time it runs at it, if your pottering about at 1800RPM in 5th gear doing 60, don't expect passive regens to work, DPF cars really should have a bunch of questions asked before they are sold so that people buying them know the score, of course if people knew the score with them then they wouldn't shift any

I often drive "enthusiastically" especially in order to get upto speed, that and with the amount of hills around the area hot engine & high revs are normal for me.

Speaking of which just pulled into the hospital carpark and regen kicked in (running late for appointment so again enthusiastic driving).

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I drive in 3rd at 30. 4th at 40 and 5th above and only use 6th on motorways.

So still. Will my EML327 reader work on my focus? Think I'll try this afternoon if weather permits.

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not sure how those gear speed ratios work in terms of rpm but for my 5 speed box, it wouldn't be enough, drive in 4th on the motorway at around 65 for 15 20 min was my solution.

passive regen needs sustained temps, not just peaks an troths an mind its not engine temp, its exhaust temp,

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I drive in those gears/speed as the engine loves it and returns very good mpg and most of all no strain on the DMF clutch. Plus many other Ford drivers drive similar gear/speed (well on talkford anyway)

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On 7/22/2015 at 4:05 AM, tazzman600 said:

On my way to work within 1 mile of travel I noticed my car running like a bag of nails as if it was running on 3 pots. So I continue my near 5 mile journey with higher than normal revs (between 2 and 2 1/2 thousand revs. When I park up I notice my auto stop not working and when I switched off I noticed the cooling fan in operation. I felt the back of my exhaust and it was hot.

Did my car just do a regen? If so how can that happen on an engine barely started!

Opinions please.

I recommend the AtomEx Diesel Multi- Cleaner

Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_reviews_info&products_id=26&reviews_id=6&zenid=vbgg4geptune010u3pv4et4vp2

Atomex_Multi-Cleaner-diesel-250x250_zps4

See my Review on there website linked above the image,

I put this bottle in with a Tank of fuel prior to having my fuel filter changed as part of a routine service,

I wanted a product that would flush through to the filter; any dirt that was likely to be in the tank,

This stuff made a great difference to the starting and smoothed out the idle running aswell as a little more free response feeling to the engine.

I recommend using around 2-3 weeks prior to changing fuel filter for optimum results from your new filter.

I also recommend using a bottle of AtomExTotal flush a few miles before your next oil change to remove the carbon deposits and prolong turbo life by keeping the oil feed pipe clear.

Atomex_Total-Flush-250x250_zpskhiykv07.j

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those speeds etc may well be good for mpg and the DMF, unfortunately they aren't often the best speed for cleaning DPFs

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Personally I'm not overly bothered about DPF's as they are a whole lot cheaper to replace than a DMF.

Interesting Lenny regarding the flushing agents. Wasn't the story years ago that under no circumstances use a flush in a diesel?

As for DPF removal I'm game for but for it to be gutted as I had it done to my 1st mondeo tho news is that DPF condition will be a part of the MOT. That s it may well be tapped by say a hammer to see if it's hollow.

I use Millers diesel eco boost additive on every fill. Been using it since my 1st diesel car. I'll read up on atom ex. Cheers for the link.

Car started just fine after work and ran good.

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Niiiiiiiiiìice trick with the gutted DPF. Since I intend to keep this focus for some years I will adopt a flushing agent. And since I'm a low miler I'm going to do an interim oil change and filter myself (got 2 years free service when I bought the car)

Not looked but is that flush on amazon?

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Ok Lenny. Cheers. Will look later and if not I'll buy a few bottles hic!

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The cost of a DPF is a lot less than a DMF unless of course the curse of the DV6TED4 engine strikes and you blow your turbo wrecking your whole engine. The DPF is linked to this but the choice is yours, from my perspective I choose to fix the DPF and just drive sensibly to minimise the effect on the DMF and clutch.

Lenny, ive done a lot of reading on the use of oil flushes and the common theme is, if the engine is in good nick, then the flushing is a good thing, the trouble is when there is a lot of oil and built up carbon all over the place, using the flush can essentially loosen it all up causing it to flake off and contaminate the new oil with large chucks of crud.

But I have to say ive been toying with the idea myself and if the state of the engine is in doubt then using a flush followed by a couple of oil changes should eliminate the issue..... should!

as for DPFs and MOTs, from what ive read in 2017 or something like that they will be doing some sort of test on EuroV engines and newer, from what ive read the EuroIV + DPF will not be included.

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Hi Read on Wikipedia that Duratorq engine runs at higher temp than other Diesel's

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  • 1 month later...

Just read thru this post again. Cars been running v very well and I'm sticking with 3rd gear 30mph 4th gear 40mph etc and for information the driving style has NO bearing on DPF maintenance let's say. I did a static regen yesterday successfully and will do one between 2 or 3 times a year (probably a few days before an oil change just incase excess regens have taken place and the possibility of fuel entering the engine oil).

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Sorry but that simply isnt accurate.

The DPF is a chamber that cooks soot and turns it in to ash. There are three ways of going it,

Passive regens, this is the bread and butter of regens and will only work when up to temp and ran for a sustained period of time. General consensus is about 3000RPM for about 15 20 min

Active regens, same as above only this kicks in when the pressure increases due to increased amounts of soot, in addition to the high exhaust temps fuel is also injected in to the chamber to increase temps an give it a hand. I guess the ECU has many weird and wonderful ways of setting one of these off as and when it NEEDs it.

Static regens, the last resort of regens. They take the car up to 4000 RPM for about 10 min. Sounds wonderful and has half a dozen or so explosive reasons why they shouldnt be relied on at all.

DPFs are a problem full stop made worse by bad (inefficient) driving style, its much easier to give it a bit of wellie on a road with cool air over the radiator for 20 min or so a few times a month then kick the balls out of it risking everything from the timing belt to the turbo exploding whilst relying solely onto the fan to keep it from cooking its self off.

I know what I used to do..... course its fixed now so not a problem :)

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You know what Dee. You seem knowledgeable and am intrigued where your knowledge comes from.

Passive regens needing 3000 revs for about 15 to 20 mins? Blimey. That means my car does a passive regen every weekend coz I give it stick up the motorway for at least 20 mins (short journeys every week day)

Never heard of active regens.

Static regen taking car revs to 4000 revs?????

When I did it the revs never went above 2500 and engine ran at those revs for 42 mins (I timed it).

I'm all for the Italian tune .

Maybe I'm being too over causios (how ever it's spelt) regarding the DPF but I'll keep on doing what I do and if the DPF one day feecks up then tough shiters. I'll replace it with a straight through pipe. Now. Where's my newky?

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the 3k passive regen is just that, passive, bar getting the exhaust up to temp and keeping it their to burn off soot and turn it in to ash, you need not do anything or see anything and it happens all the time whenever you get up to temp.

Active regens are a second stage regen if passive regens are not doing the job, ie, if your not getting the car hot enough for long enough.

This video accurately depicts my own experience with static regens, it might be that if the ECU detects a certain amount of pressure resistance it lowers RPM and extends duration, which would be fitting if your passive and active regens aren't doing the job properly

You can't put a straight pipe on, it'll fail your MOT, you need to gut the can then have it mapped out of your ECU

edit, oh an its not a case of "if" if fecks up, it will go wrong, your car has a newer design of DPF though which should do the job better and last longer

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