BHeart Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Hi I passed on my 2010 Fiesta Zetec to my daughter last November and a few months ago, a passing car damage the offside mirror so I replaced the complete mirror and, after refitting the door card I tested the operation of the new mirror and everything was working fine. Then a couple of weeks after my daughter reported that the drivers door window would only lower about three quarters of the way (so I'm obviously thinking that 'maybe', a cable or something that I moved has snagged the window when I first changed the mirror and it has now gotten worse) and I and, since then, she had not found the time to bring it round to me to check it out. Today, she came round for my birthday and informed me that the offside door window would not lower at all and, both mirrors are non operational. i.e. They heated and folding and do not fold out or in and the glass cannot be tilted so, she has been driving without mirrors which is obviously very unsafe. Ok, so that was a bit drawn out but, could it just be a matter of a blown fuses in both the mirrors and windows or does it require me to strip off the door card again to check for snagged cables? In either case: * What are the fuse numbers and which fuse box is it? * I need a refresher on what tools/screws I need to remove the door card again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 You've routed the mirror wiring the wrong way for sure, won't tell how I know, lol, anyway sounds like the wiring has now shorted and blown a fuse. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHeart Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Hi Ian I so much want your comments to be right but, I'm very methodical when doing things and I did take note of exactly how the cable was routed from the base of the mirror and down to the connector part way down inside the door. After disconnecting the multi connector from the lower end of the cable, I secured a bit of 'thin coat hanger wire' to the bottom of the cable and when I pulled the cable out, I connected the new cable and pulled it back through the same holes and reconnected it. After I completed the replacing the mirror, there's know doubt that something was preventing the door glass from going all the way down and whatever it was, it has now caused the failure and operation of both mirrors and the door window but, at the time, I failed to try the window operation so, I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on how to put this right. I'm intrigued by your comment, "won't tell how I know"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Hi, I had to put right someone else's mirror install, the wiring was routed past the window channel and when window was lowered it kept hacking into wiring, but as you kept a piece of wire attached then probably that's not the issue, could be 2 issues. May be wiring trapped as you tightend mirror , and has windows got 1touch down operation? If so then before possible fuse blown , the window needed relearning to know open/closed position. That will stop window going down all the way. Just a case of removing door card and rechecking everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHeart Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Hi again Ian I'd rather not remove the door card but, if I remember correctly, it's not difficult to remove it but I can't remember exactly what screws (torx and phillips?) needs to be removed and what tools are required - can you please refresh my memory? I think that the door open release and the grab handle and also the window winder handle need to come off? You mentioned 'one touch down' operation, I think maybe it did but I don't ever recall using it but, while that may account for my daughter reporting that the window would not go all the way down after I installed the new mirror, surely I would have noticed that when I owned the car? I seem to remember that "Nathan (Nath) out up a video on You tube? To recap and, remembering that both mirrors are now inoperative and the drivers mirror does not lower at all, so blown fuses are a possibility - she has mislaid the user manual but, I think that there are two fuse boxes, one on the left behind the glovebox and the other in the engine compartment so, which fuse box and the what fuses cover the mirrors and door windows, before removing the door car, what do you recommend I check first? You said that you had to put right someone else's install, was it you? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Wasn't me , I know better than that after 34yrs in the trade. I would check fuses, but which one I can't tell you, unfortunately not got that info to hand while on hols in the sun. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHeart Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Hi Ian On holiday in the sun. Wow, lucky you! Thanks for taking the time out to try and help with this issue. :) With all of the members on here, you are the only one who has responded and you're on holiday. 34 years in the trade? so you really know your stuff then? The reason I asked "was it you" was because of what you said in your first reply, "wont tell you how I know"? Ok, I've just come back indoors from checking the fuse on the Fiesta (I'll get back to that in a minute) and then took off the door card and this is what I found: I disconnected loom that runs from the mirror to the connector in the door, I then pulled out the slack in the mirror cable from inside the door panel at the bottom hole, and I immediately noticed a definite fairly acute bending (like the bottom of the window glass had snagged the cable on it's way down, so that the cable was forced to ride up either side of the glass - as in a "V") that contains 8 wires and the insulation tape was torn at the point. I peeled back about eight (8) inches of the outer sleeve (about 4" either side of the "V" and bent the loom back into shape and checked each of the wires individually and there did not appear to be any breaks or cuts in the wires insulation. I then taped up the wires again and pulled the loom up through the top hole and checked the top end of the loom and felt it right up until it disappears through the outer door skin and into the base od the mirror and again, the loom and wires appeared to be ok. After checking that all connections were secure, I tried the windows and mirrors but no luck - the drivers window still would not go up or down and both mirrors remained folded into the car . As stated earlier, I checked fuse 25, the 30amp fuse that controls both power fold mirrors and I've not not seen a fuse like that before - it was sort of square shaped and I looked through the top of the fuse and on the left side, it looked like a small c/board but on the right, it looked like a blob of solder so, I'm not a 100% sure if that blown or not (should have taken a picture). So where does that leave us? It could be fuse 25 for the front power front windows (but the passenger front window is fine) if I've read it incorrectly or, one or both relays (R2 & R3) which are for the power fold mirrors. I've not checked Fuse 16 which covers the heated exterior mirror but I don't think that it could be that? The only other thing I can think of is that with the bottom of the window glass snagging the mirror loom on the way down, perhaps one or more of the 8 wires has been stretched to breaking point at the base of the mirror, or at the connection plug at the switch end but, insulation has not been broken. HELP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Try fuse 26 7.5amp, engine bay fuse box, looks like that fuse does folding mirrors, and double check the routing of cable, got to be routed round the window channel, can be a bit of a fiddle sometimes, but if it was me I would remove mirror completely and check wiring all the way along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl46 Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 I know that this is no help to you now, but may help others. When my n/s mirror was damaged, Ireplaced the whole assembly. There is a round rubber bung on the inside of the door parallell with the base of the mirror. I removed this, unbolted the mirror., pulled the cable through, disconnected the connector and replaced with the new mirror, bolted up, replaced bung and tested. Less than 10 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHeart Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Hi Ian Thanks for your continued help. The loom runs directly from the base of the mirror and can be viewed as it passes the access hole normally covered by a large rubber grommet. It then runs down and out of the lower hole in the inner skin where it connects to the multi connector in the door - It's quite straight forward really but obviously something is not right. I understand what you mean by routing the loom around (forward of) the window channel because, if it was routed between the channels, it would snag up the glass when it was lowered but, as far as I can see, you can't actually see the window forward channel through either of the holes, to route the loom around it Or can you? I don't mind removing the mirror to check the whole of the loom but, I was thinking checking fuse 26 in the engine compartment and then replacing powerfold relays R2 & R3 - could it be the relays and if so, what do they normally cost? BTW, I hope you're enjoying you holiday in the sun? Karl46, thanks for the info Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHeart Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Hi Ian Great news! It was fuse 26 in the engine compartment fuse box. Before putting everything back together, I tried the mirrors and they worked as expected but, when I Iowered the drivers window, it was still snagging the wiring loom so I re routed the loom, it took 2 attempts but window operation is now fine. So, thank you very much my friend. With your help, a bit of perseverance from me and £3.63 for 2 x 7.5 amp fuses, my daughter can drive to Brighton safely tomorrow. Thanks again Ian Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Ford UK Shop
Sponsored Ad
Name: eBay
Ford Model: FordUK Shop
Ford Year: 2024
Latest Deals
Ford UK Shop for genuine Ford parts & accessoriesDisclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via the club
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.