ChrisZetecS Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 how was the nozel at the end?mines on around 3mm wide and fully to the minus side, i often put a little more of the snow foam solution in as i have no chrome that it could damage. I tried it fully open at around 3mm wide, and then closed it slightly more, still no difference Did you use warm water to top up the solution?? I have the nozzle adjusted to half way between jet and spray and that seems to work fine for me... Yep luke-warm water, il have a fiddle again when its not raining see if I can get it to work properly. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenymk7 Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 which pressure washer have you got? mite be to do with the pressure creating the foam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny87 Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Thanks you all for your help. Thing is about the wax, I have to park my car at the roadside some distance from my house (I have no driveway or garage), so pressure washers and standing in the road applying wax aren't really an option for me atm. Aside from that if I was to do a proper wax job I would want to do a quality job using some good products, but the funding isn't really available for that atm. Of course I would like to protect the car as best I can. Question is what is the best aquawax/spraywax/liquidwax available? I have heard that dodo red mist is ok, but some have said that duragloss aquawax is superior and works better on bare paint. Are there any others worth considering. I need something thats really quick and easy, preferably can be sprayed on to a wet car, and that wont cause problems getting it onto plastics and glass What would you guys recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisZetecS Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 which pressure washer have you got?mite be to do with the pressure creating the foam Just a karcher k2.19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisZetecS Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Of course I would like to protect the car as best I can. Question is what is the best aquawax/spraywax/liquidwax available? I use Autoglym aquawax when I need a quick wax job, like just now it goes on really well, easy and quick to apply etc, and I use it on my windows (except windscreen) and plastics aswell, and it dries without streaking on the car and windows. I think it's a good wax for the price and considering how convinient it is. :) Oh the car doesnt have to be completely dry to apply it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny87 Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I use Autoglym aquawax when I need a quick wax job, like just now it goes on really well, easy and quick to apply etc, and I use it on my windows (except windscreen) and plastics aswell, and it dries without streaking on the car and windows. I think it's a good wax for the price and considering how convinient it is. :)Oh the car doesnt have to be completely dry to apply it Cheers Chris, I'll check it out :) How do you use it? Do you just spray it on, leave it for a bit then wipe it off with some sort of twisted microfibre? Or is there more/less to it than that? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisZetecS Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I just spray it on and buff it off straight away, try not to get any on your windscreen though it makes a right mess :( and i bought mine from Halfords and it come with two microfibre cloths to use with the wax, and I think its the same if you buy it from anywhere else :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanGull Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Chris - get the valve all the way open to + and set the nozzle to a fan spray - the nozzle is a key part of creating the foam. I used to have a 2.19 Karcher and it worked fine with my lance. Jonny - I tried AG Aquawax a while back to see if it actually worked for me, I have to say it didn't (sorry Chris) it seemed more like a drying aid to me than a protective product. Duragloss Aquawax smells fantastic and holds up well whether over wax or just bare paint. Red Mist claims to do well on bare paint, but I think of Red Mist as being good at filling holes in existing protection. If I wanted quick, convenient protection - the Duragloss wins for me at present although I'm still trying things out. Re glass - the Duragloss will send your glass milky but works every where else, so I usually apply everywhere and then cut through the milkyness on the glass with some Megs glass cleaner - careful not to get that on the paint of course because it will strip the wax off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenymk7 Posted January 27, 2010 Author Share Posted January 27, 2010 jonny if you want to look at cheaper solutions have a look at sealents instead. much cheaper than wax's and help at this time of year ALOT. i no that finishkare 1000P is £17 but u get a huge tin for that. also chamical guys do some good spray on sealents which help for quick washing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazjs Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Planning on attacking the car tomoz with Tardis. do I need to dilute it? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strutter Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Could someone please recommend a easy small kit I could put together (no big expense buying from the likes of Halfords etc), so when mine arrives I can spend the first day getting a layer of something on? I don't have much time for this but would have the odd Sunday to put a good rub on rub off wax down on it. Also, anytime I have detailed before with Waxes, I usually ended up getting some amount on the black trim and even when blackend it can still look a mess, is their some mythical trick to getting around this, or do I just have to take longer and be more careful? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aph1101 Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Could someone please recommend a easy small kit I could put together (no big expense buying from the likes of Halfords etc), so when mine arrives I can spend the first day getting a layer of something on? I don't have much time for this but would have the odd Sunday to put a good rub on rub off wax down on it. Also, anytime I have detailed before with Waxes, I usually ended up getting some amount on the black trim and even when blackend it can still look a mess, is their some mythical trick to getting around this, or do I just have to take longer and be more careful? A good way to get wax residue off black plastics is, believe it or not, to rub some peanut butter on it and wipe it off with a tissue....Just be careful not to get any on your paint. :) Thanks to Dan for that tip ;) For a small kit, I would suggest looking on I4D and using the FOC discount code (FOCX). If you have a flick through this thread from the beginning, you should get a good idea of a reasonable starters kit. Basics are wash mitt and good shampoo (born to be mild etc.), a drying towel and a good pot of wax. For around £30 you can get some dodo juice hard candy or other dodo wax which will last you for donkey's years :D Oh and you can never have enough microfibre cloths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazjs Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Could someone please recommend a easy small kit I could put together (no big expense buying from the likes of Halfords etc), so when mine arrives I can spend the first day getting a layer of something on? I don't have much time for this but would have the odd Sunday to put a good rub on rub off wax down on it. Also, anytime I have detailed before with Waxes, I usually ended up getting some amount on the black trim and even when blackend it can still look a mess, is their some mythical trick to getting around this, or do I just have to take longer and be more careful? BEATEN TO IT BY aph1101 As many people will say, the costs are endless in detailing, it would be good if you could put a figure on how much you are willing to spend. Instead of Halfords you should have a look at CYCVery good site witch sells some kits that are already made up. I4Detailing- Discount using FOCX The basics you will need: Two buckets A decent wash Mitt A decent shampoo Drying towel As well as this you could top up you're kit with a decent Hard Wax, I personally use Dodo Hard Candy but it is a bit on the expensive side. The list could be endless. The problems with over spray will not happen if you use a decent wax. Failing that mask off the trim. If ou have any of these marks you are finding hard to remove then DanGull kindly recommended using ground nutmeg oil - it works a treat :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aph1101 Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 BEATEN TO IT BY aph1101 . . . Haha! I was just about to say that :) We've all been taught well on here haven't we :P Good old Dan and his ground nut oil / peanut butter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strutter Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 So their IS a mystical secret.....peanut butter, of all the bloddy things. I did read over teh pages from the start and the Dojo Hard Wax get talked about alot, but I went to their website, as fun as it may look it has no practical use when trying to find out about their products, then theirs about 6 different type of waxes, wax treatments, and TBH, its really expensive stuff, then by the time you read this whole thread, that many products have been talked about, I ended up more confused, looked at the washing two buckets technice and the need for a Mit so those are a givin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanGull Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 If you want the bare minimum, and want to shop in Halfords, it's quite simple really - Meguiars Wash Mitt Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo or Hyperwash (neither are anywhere near as good as Dodo BTBM, but they're readily available) Megs Drying Towel (again, there are far better towels, but we're talking Halfords here) Autoglym Super Resin Polish Autoglym High Defintion Wax If you get it when the Halfords 3 for 2 is on (which is quite regularly) you'll see change from £50. As for the regime with these products - two bucket wash with the shampoo and the mitt, dry with the towel, polish with the SRP and then you'll have a nice base for your High Def. If you also pick up some Autoglym Aquawax, you can then top up your wax over the next couple of washes (the wax should last around 3 months) and not have to reapply the more expensive High Def each time. Halfords products wash regime - <Gordon Ramsay> DONE </Gordon Ramsay> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strutter Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Trust me I know that the Dodo stuff is obviously better, but I figure getting SOMETHING alittle done right is better than coming home with the new paintwork to nothing. Anything for the alloys and blacks, im more worried about getting any of the AutoGlym stuff on any black surfaces, tho might pick up some peanut butter then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazjs Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Trust me I know that the Dodo stuff is obviously better, but I figure getting SOMETHING alittle done right is better than coming home with the new paintwork to nothing. Anything for the alloys and blacks, im more worried about getting any of the AutoGlym stuff on any black surfaces, tho might pick up some peanut butter then! Bilberrys wheel cleaner ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael P Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 After a month of country lanes and abuse, i finally cracked!! Just a simple blast with the pressure washer, then BTBM on the body work and AG wheel cleaner and poorboys on the alloys, it's looking pretty much like it is in the dirty pictures now after just two days!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazjs Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Much better :P I am beggining to enjoy letting my car get dirty now , just so i can get into it with the products Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael P Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Much better :P I am beggining to enjoy letting my car get dirty now , just so i can get into it with the products I do and i don't; I like cleaning it up to a point, sometimes it gets a bit boring! But i hate it being dirty now, since seeing it in it's current state so clean it looks so much better and less skip-like (open to opinion!!) I think it will be my friday regime to clean it now, its lovely when it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny87 Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Hi guys. I really appreciate the info that you guys have given out. Later in the year I plan on buying some proper detailing gear. And I have a few more Q's I know that you need to wipe off the wax some time after it has "hazed?" what should I use for this and how should i use it? When layering wax I know that ideally you should wait 24 hours but its possible to layer after about half an hour - does either period have any major advantage? and can i use the same thing to wipe over after each haze, or should i use a new thing each time? I noticed yesterday while I was topping up my washer bottle in a very brightly lit petrol station that my paint is swirled. How good is lime prime to remove swirls and how should I apply/use/remove this? (by hand as opposed to a machine polisher) is it just a case of slapping it on then wiping it around then washing it off? In a moment of madness I may buy a kestral DA to use with the Lime prime - is it worth it? Finally, what do you guys use to wash the sills/shuts etc and do you wax these areas? Cheers Guys :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazjs Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Hi guys. I really appreciate the info that you guys have given out. Later in the year I plan on buying some proper detailing gear. And I have a few more Q's I know that you need to wipe off the wax some time after it has "hazed?" what should I use for this and how should i use it? When layering wax I know that ideally you should wait 24 hours but its possible to layer after about half an hour - does either period have any major advantage? and can i use the same thing to wipe over after each haze, or should i use a new thing each time? I noticed yesterday while I was topping up my washer bottle in a very brightly lit petrol station that my paint is swirled. How good is lime prime to remove swirls and how should I apply/use/remove this? (by hand as opposed to a machine polisher) is it just a case of slapping it on then wiping it around then washing it off? In a moment of madness I may buy a kestral DA to use with the Lime prime - is it worth it? Finally, what do you guys use to wash the sills/shuts etc and do you wax these areas? Cheers Guys :) I can offer some help here Jonny but i am sure others may well have better ideas. microfibre cloths are very good for this. Its just a case of working across the surface to remove the haze. I personally use the same microfibre, being sure however to use this cloth for working with wax only. eventually after a few usages i will give it a wash I wax these areas yes. Usually wash with a wash mitt but on occasions will attack them with G101 an APC (be sure to wax after as this will affect the wax performance). This will help to rid of road grime etc. As for the Kestral, i got one for Christmas but have yet to put it to use so i could not comment, but believe it will make swirl removal a lot easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny87 Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I can offer some help here Jonny but i am sure others may well have better ideas. Microfibre cloths are very good for this. Its just a case of working across the surface to remove the haze. I personally use the same microfibre, being sure however to use this cloth for working with wax only. eventually after a few usages i will give it a wash I wax these areas yes. Usually wash with a wash mitt but on occasions will attack them with G101 an APC (be sure to wax after as this will affect the wax performance). This will help to rid of road grime etc. As for the Kestral, i got one for Christmas but have yet to put it to use so i could not comment, but believe it will make swirl removal a lot easier Cheers for the info Gaz. I think I read somewhere that spraying some red mist over the haze before removing can help produce a good result (increased gloss, strength, lifespan, smoothness etc) does this sound right to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesilverfox Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Cheers for the info Gaz. I think I read somewhere that spraying some red mist over the haze before removing can help produce a good result (increased gloss, strength, lifespan, smoothness etc) does this sound right to you? Kestrel + Lime Prime/Lime Prime Lite = goodness. Get some decent pads and you're laughing to be honest - very difficult to get it wrong, unless you don't prepare the paintwork correctly with a damned good clay bar etc. Father and mother's cars have now had a number of hideous scratches polished out beautifully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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