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greenymk7, September 6, 2009
Posted December 14, 2010
Much much better :P
Posted December 29, 2010
Hello again, its about taht time where I show up and ask for advice again!
I assume teh Dodo waxes are still the top stuff, was looking at a good shampoo to use with a Mitt for handwashing, and then I already have some AG normal wax resin, and HD stuff, but was remembering someone saying about the Dodo being much better, lasts longer, but I Have the White, so whats best for it, and do they do a colour charged wax so i can see where it has gone on.
Also actually seeing as I posted this....what do yas think on Orbital polishers...looking for something to take the work out of polishing the car, tho id probly still apply by hand.
Posted January 8, 2011
I Have been reading what detailing products to get for a while now and 'think' I have a decent list, what do you guys think?
Dodo Juice 'Born to be Mild' Shampoo
Dodo Juice Hard Candy Wax
Dodo Juice 'Lime prime lite' (My cars only a couple of months old, so I presume I don't need the normal stuff for now)
Dodo Juice Red Mist' Spray
Bilbery wheel cleaner (and a chemical resistant bottle)
Poorboys Wheel Sealant
Bilt-Hamber auto clay
I4D Uber blue drying towel
EZ detail mini brush
Some more microfibre clothes.
2x grit guards
Also does anyone know where I can get a hold of some FK1000? I would love to try it out
My car is filthy now, took it on a little trip to inverness and its in dire need of a clean >_<
You don't need rim wax and pb wheel sealant - they're effectively doing the same job. And anyway - if you get some FK1000P you don't need either, it's the best wheel sealant I've used and it goes on the paint too - win win.
FK1000P can be had from Serious Performance - their show detailer is also worth a look as a top layer to finish things off.
I would recommend you're going to need more microfibre than one towel - I have hundreds and can get through 30+ in a big detail, and let's be honest that's what you're looking at here.
Thanks for the tips,
I checked Serious Performance, they are out of stock until the end of July and I would ideally like some before that. I would buy from cleanyourcar but it doesn't recognise my address, I have sent them an email though so hopefully I will be able to order some soon.
I have about 10microfibre clothes at the moment, will definitely invest in some more then, I will see if I can buy some in bulk anywhere.
Posted January 10, 2011
heres a link to FK1000P from clean your car.
I just ordered some, I can't wait for it to arrive :D
Posted January 15, 2011
Here is a tip from a motor cycling friend of mine. You Meguiars fans will hit the roof I know but here goes.
I have used it on several cars including my pride and joy ...a 2007 Jaguar XJ. It doesnt remove scratches but if you want a quick shine its great, especially as there are no white deposits and you can use it on glass, plastic bumpers everything.
You may have to use it more often than wax polish but you should see the beading when it rains.
Posted January 16, 2011
Before I had used wax on my car it was easy to dry after washing with an I4D absorbant towel. These days having used Autoglym HD wax, the water beads after washing and it's a nightmare drying the car with the towel, can seem to get all the water off and it leaves big streaks any ideas
Sounds like your wax layers are too thick to me.
You may want to try sheeting the car - after washing use an open hose (not a pressure washer) and gently run water from the top of the car to bottom - it helps drying.
There are also drying aids available - Dodo make one, or a number of other products also help the drying process - quick detailer for example. Mist it on after washing and before drying.
Washed the car today, but its littered with black specs or what I can only assume is either tar od rubber, all over the paint work and it wasnt for moving, the car was clean so I manged to get a layer of AG HD Wax on (ran out of light)..so Im assuming this is where claying comes in?...does it lift and remove those spots easily enough?
Posted January 17, 2011
I would imagine, from your description, that this is indeed where claying comes in. It removes the bonded contaminants, and leaves the paint very smooth and free from the crap you mentioned :) You may choose to use a tar remover, such as tardis, if you don't wish to clay, but I wouldn't if I were you.
To clay, you need a clay bar and some lube.
My reccommendation is:
Lube (The concentrate will last you ages. You'll need to get a bottle and chemical resistant sprayer.)
This is the clay I use, and have found it to be adequate.
One issue with claying is that if you do not do it properly and don't use enough lube, you may end up with some marring. Also, some people (myself included) believe that claying removes wax layers, but as far as I know, this isn't absolute fact!!
Hope that helps :D
Hey thanks for the response, much appreciated.
I actually have some clay from a friend who got it..never intends to use it, its this stuff
Is it ok?
And ordered the Dodo bottle...tho if I can ask I have a good quality bottle and sprayer (beand new, order to by accident), can i transferr the Dodo stuff to his bottle, teh spreay head is brilliant on it.
Fully prepared to loose the wax coating, as far as I have read if done right, the wax should glide on and off after.
Another thing..do I HAVE to wipe down each part that been clayed stright after, or can I move around the car..spraying and claying then do a wash over the car again?
Posted January 18, 2011
Hey thanks for the response, much appreciated.I actually have some clay from a friend who got it..never intends to use it, its this stuffhttp://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zaino/zaino-z-18-claybar/prod_477.htmlIs it ok?And ordered the Dodo bottle...tho if I can ask I have a good quality bottle and sprayer (beand new, order to by accident), can i transferr the Dodo stuff to his bottle, teh spreay head is brilliant on it.Fully prepared to loose the wax coating, as far as I have read if done right, the wax should glide on and off after.Another thing..do I HAVE to wipe down each part that been clayed stright after, or can I move around the car..spraying and claying then do a wash over the car again?
That clay bar is actually much better than the one I linked you to.... It will be more than ok :)
If you ordered that concentrate that I linked you above, then you can use any bottle you like. It's just like making up ribena! Add a little of the concentrate to the bottle, and then top up the rest with water.
The wax will go on and off very easily after claying. After claying, the paint will be so smooth to the touch, and perfectly clean. :D
My personal preference is to just rinse the panel I have clayed with some clean water, move on and then give the whole car a 2 bucket wash afterwards. I'm not sure you absolutely have to do that. If you want to get a more definitive answer, then just have a look on the detaillingworld forums.
Hope that helps, and let me know if you have any more questions.
More than helpful...just a couple more...with regards to the plastic trim..does the clay affect it, do I keep it well clear of it?
How much clay would I use for the whole car...im not sure what size of bar covers what amount of car, and do you fold/ kneed the clay after every spot?..or jsut now an again..tho kneeding/ folding more in trouble areas?
Posted January 19, 2011
More than helpful...just a couple more...with regards to the plastic trim..does the clay affect it, do I keep it well clear of it?How much clay would I use for the whole car...im not sure what size of bar covers what amount of car, and do you fold/ kneed the clay after every spot?..or jsut now an again..tho kneeding/ folding more in trouble areas?
I don't think clay affects the plastic trim, but neither does it do any harm. No need to steer clear!
I used about 2/3 or 3/4 of the bar I linked you above to do the whole fiesta. I would cut the bar into four and kneed a quarter into something between the size of a custard cream and a digestive biscuit. (can you tell I'm hungry?!). I would then fold over the piece of clay every now and again, maybe once or twice per panel, or until it looks too dirty. Some panels, such as the roof, youll be able to do the whole thing and it will hardly pick anything up. As you clay, you'll see that the clay bar picks up the crap off the surface and becomes dirty itself. You'll need to throw the clay away after you've finished with it. Remember, you can never use too much lube! The more the better in my opinion. :)
Remember, you can never use too much lube! The more the better in my opinion. :)
That's what our lass says about her clay box too!!!!!!!
well somebody had to say it
Posted January 20, 2011
I'm just getting into the detailing lark, got myself foam lance etc.
I have a sea grey focus and I am looking for suggestions on what are the best products for me to buy.
Any suggestions appreciated.
For someone who has never properly cleaned their car before (apart from bucket & wash mitt, occasionally some fun with the snow foam!) where is the best place to start?
Need some sort of idiot's guide!
Not looking to spend a fortune, but it does sound like I need some of this clay and lube to get all the crap off!
This has a few product suggestions in it as well as some advice on how to detail...
Posted January 21, 2011
Looking for some advice. I have owned a black ZS since April 2010 when it was 5 months old. I have cleaned it regularly with wash mitts, BTBM shampoo and dried with 14D Uber towels. It looks good when its done but I probably need to get a bit more serious with it. Should I 'clay' it and if I do how long would this take and then what do I do? Alternatively could I forget the 'clay' and just use Red Mist. If the latter is an option what would be best type of microfibre to use. Think I need new drying towels any suggestions and what should I do with alloys, tyres and windows. Thanks for any help.
Posted January 22, 2011
Hi, Looking for some advice. I have owned a black ZS since April 2010 when it was 5 months old. I have cleaned it regularly with wash mitts, BTBM shampoo and dried with 14D Uber towels. It looks good when its done but I probably need to get a bit more serious with it. Should I 'clay' it and if I do how long would this take and then what do I do? Alternatively could I forget the 'clay' and just use Red Mist. If the latter is an option what would be best type of microfibre to use. Think I need new drying towels any suggestions and what should I do with alloys, tyres and windows. Thanks for any help.
Claying will help get rid of imperfections, I have yet to clean my car properly so I am not sure about how long it will take. Have a look at this Detailing Guide, it is good for getting to grips with what you need to do and decent products for the job
'Claying will help get rid of imperfections'
This is somewhat misleading - it suggests that claying can remove paint defects such as swirl marks and light scuffs. Claying removes bonded contaminants, that's dirt and other foreign matter that is often invisible to the eye but rather has to be felt by rubbing a hand over the paint surface. Claying the entire car can take a significant amount of time if you do it right - a couple of hours for someone new to it. It makes the surface better able to take waxes and other products and if you're considering machine polishing it's an absolute must as far as I'm concerned.
Claying and Red Mist have very little in common - one is for prep the other is a final stage product. Red Mist without clay can aid your protection and shine, but it's going to apply better, work better and last longer if the car has been clayed.
Posted January 27, 2011
Some new bits I bought..
Zaino Clay Bars
DoDo Born SLippy
ValetPro Cirtus Tar and Glue remover
Clean Your Car big blue drying towel
Chemical Guys Bug Bugger and Tar remover (thinking once bug season came along, really wanted sommen to shift them from teh front grill etc.
Some fo that blue masking tape as its annoying have to be so careful around the trim.
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