Control Arm Replacement

[jackcramerr]

Hi

a general question. Not specific to Ford in fact I want to replace control arms on my mazda3. Recently learned that Focus and mazda 3 have almost similar layout. Didn't get any feedback from Mazda forums UK and noticed this place is more active.

I am going to raise the car from cross member center and place jack stands under pinch weld.

Now I just learned that one needs to load the suspension before tightening the control arm. So that it rotates in its natural place. If I tighten them with the front of the car in air, it will not be in the normal position and when I bring it to tarmac, the rubber bush will stay twisted. First bump or pot hole will break the bush again.

Now if I lower the car to ground, my worry is that there will be not enough clearance for me to go under the car and tighten the bolts. How does one do this job ?

tools I have floor jack, bottle jack,jack stands, breaker bar 26inch (inthink), standard tools and hammers.

Thanks for input.

[simcor]

The arm assuming it is the same as the focus one has only one way it can fit, both the bushes have to be aligned to get the bolts in, so no idea where you have heard you need to put it under load to tighten the bolts up. See my how to link below.

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/tutorials/article/297-lower-control-arm-replacement-guide/

The bush at the back will twist to a degree but you have to get it perfectly located to get the two bolts into the threads.

The front bush again has a long bolt going through it so that has to be lined up too.

The ball joint allows movement in any direction of travel and there is no specific orientation for the ball joint.

[stef123]

To ensure bushes are not twisted, they should be tightened in their natural position - not with the arm hanging down. How many people actually do this I don't know. Its not an issue of alignment.

With the arm in the natural position the bolt should be tighten to clamp the sleeve of the bush, otherwise when tightened the bush could be under more stress once the car is back on the ground. That said, the bush which sits horizontal with one bolt going through the length of it, with the sleeve clamps tight the arm should be able to rotate around the rubber.

I dare say if you really wanted to tighten the bolts with the car in its natural position, you could measure from the wheel arch to a point on the hub and then jack the new arm up to meet this measurement before tightening the bolts.

[jackcramerr]

Thanks simcor.

Hi stef123

So you suggest I with the wheel on tarmac, measure to sent of hub. Then do the job and when fitting in the new control arm, I put the bolts in loosely but tighten the ball joint. Then jack up the control arm till the hub comes to the required position?

Is this safe to do in terms of:

- I will be using bottle jack for this job

- Control arm can take the jacking up without damage or bend (which point should I use, under the ball join perhaps?)

- Car will be safe to work in such a state? Have you done this ?

Thanks for you reply.

[jackcramerr]

Have a question again. please see the first picture. You can see the inner bush. Question is, is this bolt held by a nut? if so then cross member is in the way. if no then I might be able to tighten this with car lowered using a ratchet. I won't be able to torque it to spec but to my arm strength. Can't use my long breaker bar.

Second picture shows the new control arm.

[simcor]

Can't remember off hand but the hole is either treated or it has a nut welded to the other side of the mount.

[Pink Panther]

Jack it up, put blocks under the wheels, let the jacks down, and hey presto, space to get underneath with the suspension in rest position.

Or if you have a pair of ramps drive it up onto them for final tightening, it does help prolong the life of the bush if it is in its natural state when under load

[stef123]

Thanks simcor.

Hi stef123

So you suggest I with the wheel on tarmac, measure to sent of hub. Then do the job and when fitting in the new control arm, I put the bolts in loosely but tighten the ball joint. Then jack up the control arm till the hub comes to the required position?

Is this safe to do in terms of:

- I will be using bottle jack for this job

- Control arm can take the jacking up without damage or bend (which point should I use, under the ball join perhaps?)

- Car will be safe to work in such a state? Have you done this ?

Thanks for you reply.

I have used a jack under the ball joint to lift the suspension for various reasons in the past but if your unsure then go for Pink Panthers idea using wood.

Have a question again. please see the first picture. You can see the inner bush. Question is, is this bolt held by a nut? if so then cross member is in the way. if no then I might be able to tighten this with car lowered using a ratchet. I won't be able to torque it to spec but to my arm strength. Can't use my long breaker bar.

Second picture shows the new control arm.

It's a welded nut inside the subframe IIRC

[artscot79]

I can only comment from watching the dealer do mine which consisted of putting the arm on bolted in place loosely then putting the wheels on then lowering the car onto its wheels on the ramp and tightening it from underneath so to do this without a ramp putting something a few blocks as suggested under the wheels would work or use a second jack under the hub to apply some tension

[jackcramerr]

going with blocks for now.

I have started the job. Finding it hard to remove the ball joint from hub. Is it just hammering it out ?

Will post live. thanks.

[stef123]

yes the good old ball joint, as you are replacing it you could stick a ball joint fork in there if you have one or keep hammering/levering at it - it will go eventually although it might not seem like it

[jackcramerr]

Gave up today. I will buy a pickle fork but I don't know of there is enough space to jam it in.

I have this tool but couldn't figure it out how I can make use of it:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/orderDetails?itemId=221845288613&txnId=1610804730012

Saw a YouTube video here a cowboy hits the hub/ball joint area with big hammer and it gets out like cake... I might try that next weekend. Any other tools I should get ? thanks.

[stef123]

Link to the tool isn't working. Do you have a pry bar?

[jackcramerr]

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Joint-Splitter-Separator-20-60mm-Tie-Rod-End-Lifter-Scissor-New-Garage-1518-/221845288613?txnId=1610804730012

I don't have a crow bar/pry. I can buy one from b&q if that's the way.

[stef123]

Those type of splitters are more suited for track rod ends.

I have split them before using a breaker bar when a pry bar isn't to hand but I would recommend getting the right tool.

[Pink Panther]

Big hammer works, hit the housing of thr joint, it shakes it loose, I often put a scaffold bar underneath, then wrap a chain around the arm and bar, the place awooden block at the end of the tube, so when i stand on it it provides a lot of downward force, if needed get someone to the hit the housing again with the hammer, never failed me yet.

I stole the idea after seeing a tool like this one in action http://www.autodax.com/product_p/lti680a.htm

[jackcramerr]

what size pry bar.

I took a picture of ball joint. I am wondering if I can hammer it out by tapping the top. Is it just held in tight due to rust ?

What If I use a chisel to widen the gap. Will it give some room ? Also when installing the new control arm, will it be easy to install or will that be a tricking on and requires hammering as well? Trying to understand how this is fitted in so tight.

[jackcramerr]

Thanks pink panther. I will give it a try this weekend.

Also thinking of purchasing WD40 penetrant. Or is there better stuff for this job?

Also do you guys use loctite for the bolts? what type if yes.

[simcor]

Plusgas or GT85 is a penetrating fluid, WD40 is a water displacement fluid and lubricant not a penetrating fluid.

Never used loctite on the bolts ever but you can for piece of mind if you want to.

[simcor]

what size pry bar.

I took a picture of ball joint. I am wondering if I can hammer it out by tapping the top. Is it just held in tight due to rust ?

What If I use a chisel to widen the gap. Will it give some room ? Also when installing the new control arm, will it be easy to install or will that be a tricking on and requires hammering as well? Trying to understand how this is fitted in so tight.

You have a pinch bolt type ball joint rather than a nut on top, you will need to try to widen the pinch part with a strong screwdriver or similar then smack the arm with a lump hammer down and possibly use a pry bar as well to break the rust seal, again soaked in penetrating fluid for as long as you can will also help break the adhesion down.

Pinch bolt types are often more difficult to dislodge than a simple nut on top. But with enough brute force it will come out.

[stef123]

Hammer a chisel or screwdriver in there as already mentioned, then give the side of the knuckle a few good scuds with a hammer. As its a taper fit it will need a shock to loosen it easier. A bit of leverage on the arm while you hit the knuckle too will help.

No need for thread lock either but you should replace the pinch bolt, which using a lock nut - most likely a nyloc.

[jackcramerr]

I can't find the nut from Mazda. They have the bolt/ pin part no.

[jackcramerr]

I have GT85 with PTFE that I got from bike section from Halfords. I have been using that.

In Halfords I also saw WD40 Penetrant. And I wonder if it's better than the GT85 I have. Or is it just a label on it.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/lubricating-penetrating-oil/wd-40-specialist-fast-release-penetrant-250ml?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Engine+Oils+and+Fluids-_-Lubricating+and+Penetrating+Oil-_-366317&_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:366317&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=xtattrixi&istBid=tzxr&_$$ja=cgid:16790764204|tsid:35522|cid:214996084|lid:63100562164|nw:g|crid:73916133724|rnd:5387339883190372947|dvc:m|adp:1o1|bku:1&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:214996084|agid:16790764204|tid:kwd-63100562164|crid:73916133724|nw:g|rnd:5387339883190372947|dvc:m|adp:1o1&gclid=CNvmtJ_m-8cCFQaNaQod54EBhw

[jackcramerr]

Changed the passenger side lower control arm yesterday. Took whole day.

First couldn't take the ball joint out. then managed to use the tool somehow and it worked. But the task that took the whole day was aligning the new control arm. I couldn't get the bolts back on. had to use bottle jack and various points for each bolt in the end. no idea how I did it but it got done.

I also had to remove the new control arm out again since ome of the rear bolts was just not going in. took it out and noticed bolt wouldn't screw in. don't know if it was the paint or what. but got it done.

I will do the other side next week. better half isn't too chuffed of me spending all the weekend on car.

[jackcramerr]

oh and I bought the wd40 penetrant as well. it seems like the gt85. I noticed penetrant unlike the normal wd40, don't leave oily residue and dry off. they seem thinner consistency.