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Red Cog Light Appearing, But Only Intermittently


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Hi,

I've got an issue at the moment with my Focus Estate (1.6 Petrol, 2005 55 Reg). I don't know whether it's a serious problem or something I can get fixed pretty easily, I'm hoping the latter!

Every couple or three weeks approx, I get a red cog light appear. I don't notice any changes with the car at all when the light appears. No acceleration problems, noises, handling issues etc. Often, the next day, when I start the car, the light has disappeared and sometimes won't come on again for many days or weeks later.

I've had a look in the manual and it states it is the 'Engine Systems Fault Warning Light'. Knowing I may have a pretty serious issue I decided I needed to grab some codes through an OBD reader. After some research I decided to buy the ELM 327 USB with the Switch so I can get the full use of Forscan. Installed the drivers etc and Forscan was able to give me some codes.

If I could get some advice on what may be the issue here, it would be much appreciated. Unfortunately I'm not an expert on cars, so any help would be great. I have had a look into the codes, but I seem to get some conflicting reports and not knowing too much about cars, it's a bit over my head this one.

Many thanks.

Forscan produced the following codes:

===PCM DTC P060C-68===

Code: P060C - Internal Control Module Main Processor Performance

Additional Fault Symptom:

- Invalid Signal

Status:

- DTC Present at Time of Request

- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Internal Control Module Main Processor Performance

This DTC may be caused by :

Suspect PCM.

===END PCM DTC P060C-68===

===IC DTC B1318-20===

Code: B1318 - battery voltage Low

Status:

- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

battery voltage Low

Possible causes are:

battery voltage line - open or short

Poor battery condition

===END IC DTC B1318-20===

===IC DTC U1147-20===

Code: U1147 - SCP Invalid or Missing Data for Vehicle Security

Status:

- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Invalid or Missing Data for Vehicle Security

Operator Action

Run self test.

All CMDTCs

Fix all relevant DTCs then clear codes and retest.

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END IC DTC U1147-20===

===IC DTC B1602-20===

Code: B1602 - PATS Received Invalid Format of Key Code from Ignition Transponder

Status:

- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

===END IC DTC B1602-20===

===IC DTC U1900-60===

Code: U1900 - CAN communication bus fault

Status:

- DTC Present at Time of Request

- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END IC DTC U1900-60===

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Is it the snowflake icon? Is it only when the temp outside is cold?

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It's the Powertrain warning light - engine system fault - you need a proper diagnosis to determine the fault

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Id charge or change the battery first as it can cause a lot of problems when its low as your report states.

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Thanks for the responses. Just to confirm, the red light is a cog with an exclamation mark in it. Sorry, should have added that in earlier.

I think I will indeed start with the battery then and go from there to see if the fault light comes on again. If it does I'll look at getting it diagnosed then.

Could it still be diagnosed if there is no light on when I took it in? Would I need to take it in to an official Ford garage to be looked at or would an independent be ok in diagnosing this type of issue?

Thanks again for the help :)

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If there is a problem a code should be stored in the PCM, however as always these stored codes could be from some time in the past, so it is always good practise to note them and clear them all, then run the car for a few days at least until it flags an error up again then re read the codes and see what comes back.

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If there is a problem a code should be stored in the PCM, however as always these stored codes could be from some time in the past, so it is always good practise to note them and clear them all, then run the car for a few days at least until it flags an error up again then re read the codes and see what comes back.

Thanks for the advice. I've just gone and cleared the codes. I have a feeling some are old as well, like the security ones. I'll see what codes appear in a few days then when the red light pops back on. Cheers.

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