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Mad85

1.6 Tdci Loss In Power, Excessive Fuel Consumption

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My MK2 1.6 TDCI is using too much diesel (7.0lt/100km, as opposed to 6.4lt/100km) and not much power, especially when pulling off. I also noticed that during idle it is using around 0.8lt/hr as opposed to 0.5lt/hr I used to see before.

I had changed the Air flow meter and turbo boost controller about a year ago. It's EGR is blanked and DPF removed and remapped. Fuel filter and air filter had been changed recently. I also dosed a can of BG244 but had little effect unfortunately.

Anything obvious I should check?

Also what are your view about flushing the engine? The car has 112000miles on the clock. I plan on doing it using BG engine flush.

thanks!!

Mark

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thanks for your reply. Do you mean I need to dose 2 cans of BG244?

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What about a Terraclean session which is a bit more expensive but I have heard great things about? If you go with the BG244 can you post some feedback as to how effective it really is, even its in a month or two to give it time to work?

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Flushing is ok. Lenny posted a good idea though which I'm going to adopt. Drain hot oil. Refill with a cheap oil to correct level. Add chosen flush. Run engine even for a few miles then drain. Refill with proper oil and new filter.

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Not sure if you should rev it while flushing... Instructions say to just leave to idle for around 30-45min. I dont want to have the turbo spin to anymore than absolutely required due to the presumably reduced oil flow due to ticker oil.

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So, flushed the engine and 1.5 tanks of fuel after the BG244 + gave the MAF sensor a good clean using a contact cleaner and still did not get any real improvement. On the up side the flush did not bring out any significant sludge which must mean the engine had been taken good care of :) at this point i have two options (I think) 1. obtain a second hand set of injectors to try them out 2. try to fiddle about with the turbo variable geometry nut which is known to loose the setting sometimes. Problem with first is that even second hand ones are pretty expensive for an "experiment" and the latter is that it is really hard to get to!!

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Hi is this bg 244 good to use on my 16 td and will it not bring any warning lights on the dash

Sent from my iPad using Ford OC

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Why mess with the injectors?

They need coding into the ECU with IDS diagnostics so not a home job unless you have the diagnostics kit.

Because, it must be either the injectors or the turbo (and the turbo does not seem to be doing anything weird and there is no play in the shaft). Using a second hand set of injectors should not require coding... but there is the risk that the injectors are actually in the same state mine are.

Hi is this bg 244 good to use on my 16 td and will it not bring any warning lights on the dash

Sent from my iPad using Ford OC

BG244 is just a fuel treatment - you added to a full tank and drive normally. If your car is not sick it should help to clean up the fuel - related components, prolonging their life. If your car is a bit sick (due to excessive carbon deposits), there is a slight chance that you would see an improvement. It is more expensive then some other treatments because it is safe to use on modern diesels.

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Have you had the car on IDS diagnostics firstly? At least with error codes you have an idea where to start rather than just changing parts and hoping for the best.

Does it have the DPF or has it been removed?

Is the red light on next to the mileometer at all?

Has the air filter been changed recently?

Has it had a new fuel filter recently?

Have you checked for an air intake blockage?

Does it have the additive tank if it still has the DPF fitted and has the fluid level been checked?

There could be a million reasons why you are experiencing this problem and without some diagnostics we could all be guessing in the dark.

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I have ran a diagnostic tool and there were no errors. The car also has had air filter and fuel filter replaced less than a year ago. DPF has been removed and car remapped accordingly.

My main issue is that there is power but you need to rev it. When pulling off it feels very heavy and if you are parked on a hill you need to slip the clutch slightly to get moving... which is very annoying

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If there are no error codes then I would be looking at something more mechanical being the issue. What diagnostic tool was used do you know?

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I'm intrigued by this thread. Mad. You say your car has been remapped. From what power was it remapped to and how much was it and where was it done. I ask as there have been stories over time of bad remaps causing problems similar to yours. I have a 115 bhp mk3 focus tdci and I find it normal to slip the clutch on a hill start otherwise my car would stall.

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I'm intrigued by this thread. Mad. You say your car has been remapped. From what power was it remapped to and how much was it and where was it done. I ask as there have been stories over time of bad remaps causing problems similar to yours. I have a 115 bhp mk3 focus tdci and I find it normal to slip the clutch on a hill start otherwise my car would stall.

My car has been remapped to around 148 bhp around 4 years ago. Never got it tested properly but with an obd2 adapter and torque pro on my android I used to get around 125bhp. It also used to feel much better and more aggressive when accelerating. Mind you on the OBD2/torque it now only shows around 90 bhp. So I dont think the remap was bad, since it used to be great, but something happen and cannot pin point what. :/

by the way, I was talking about a steep hill. Even a slight inclination of trying to pull off with the a/c on is a struggle sometimes.

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Why not do a test run with Forscan or FoCom running and reading the actual parameters of the engine?

Like air pressure, fuel flow, fuel pressure, EGR position, VGT position, etc?

If no error is present, real time parameters should definitely point you in the right direction.

Also, do you know how the DPF off was done? Some tuners simply use automatic tools that will delete the error code maps. What happens if you disconnect the MAF? Do you get any error reported back when checking for errors?

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you had your car mapped to 148bhp, what kinda torque did it get mapped to?

I thought to hit 140+ you were looking at BMW injectors. Most of the off the self maps for this car are around 125 - 135, combined with the wonderful DV6TED4 engine, an older variant at that, perhaps you have just over cooked it.

id use forscan and get a trace on fuel pressure, MAF, MAP, RPM, variable turbo geometry EGR open state (if not blanked) and atmospheric pressure, good a place as any to start looking for stuff.

get the trace, then slide along the full time frame which will make sure the scales on the left are at their highest. take a screen shot 0-60 run and post it on here.

also you mentioned you replaced the fuel filter about a year ago, how many miles you done in that period tho?

edit:

or even better save the trace and post that on here!

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I got the ForScan and it really looks like a cool app. How should I read the parameters (idling/normal driving/speed run). Re BHP I am not 100% about the actual BHP, i did not do it for the BHP gain but to get rid of the DPF :)

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