Can Someone Help To Construct This Thing? (Car Stereo/power Related)

[ScorpionSX]

Hi everyone!

I'm looking for (even paid) help to create a wiring for my stereo. What I'm aiming to achieve is, basically for the stereo not to turn of during cranking up the car. Basically a capacitor (also a diode is recommended) should be enough to achieve this.

However, I don't have any tools, and frankly probably also not skills, to build this kind of circuit, so I'm asking for your help. If someone has something like this available for sale/friendly gift, or to build the whole circuit, it would be great!

Here are the details of what I (probably) need:

And the source and also a great description of what I want to achieve:

Thanks a lot!!!

[tazzman600]

Why don't you start the car 1st then turn your radio on? It'll save splicing into any wires and possibly cocking it up.

[ScorpionSX]

The radio turns on and of with the engine. I'd like to preserve this functionality. However, I have a 1.8TDCi engine, which is known for loooong heat up times of the engine itself and also long heat up times of the glow plugs...so, after switching the key from position I to II, when starting the car, I have to wait for the glow plugs to heat up and then crank up the car...of course this happens only with cold starts, but in the morning and after work, the engine is cold and the glow plugs just need to heat up longer than with the warm engine...this is the biggest problem...

[GingerFlame]

Buy an adjustable 12v delay unit for the switched feed, or buy a DRL relay that activates at 14v, Aka, when your alternator is creating power :)

[ScorpionSX]

Ehmm...how would that actually work and how does something like that look like? Some link to eBay, etc. would be great :) Thanks

[GingerFlame]

Here's a link to a 12v delay module. when it gets power, it waits for the amount of time you want it to before switching on a relay & turning on any devices attached to it.

eBay 351080040880

Here is a link to a DRL Relay. The relay will not switch on until it senses 14v. You would wire the signal wire to the battery so when the alternator is charging the battery (engine is running) the relay switches on. Just wore it accordingly, obviously ignore the Headlight feed, this is used to reduce the voltage and dim DRLs but obviously this isn't needed.

191576279200

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[ScorpionSX]

Ah, ok, thanks for explaining, I get it now...yeah, this could partially solve my problem, however, it woudln't work exactly as I want.

It would simply wait until the engine is started, let's say after 10 secs and then started powering on the stereo.

What I want is, like it's happening now, to start the stereo right when the key is in II position and when I start to crank the engine, it wouldn't cut the power to the stereo. So far, only the idea described in the video looks like the real deal to me...

[GingerFlame]

Ah, ok, thanks for explaining, I get it now...yeah, this could partially solve my problem, however, it woudln't work exactly as I want.

It would simply wait until the engine is started, let's say after 10 secs and then started powering on the stereo.

What I want is, like it's happening now, to start the stereo right when the key is in II position and when I start to crank the engine, it wouldn't cut the power to the stereo. So far, only the idea described in the video looks like the real deal to me...

So you don't want the stereo to turn off whilst cranking the engine? Especially on a diesel you're going to struggle..

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[ScorpionSX]

Yes, that's exactly what I want...the car starts very nicely, easily, even in cold weather, the battery is in great condition, I keep track of these kinds of things...however, this is something that keeps me wondering everytime I start the car...worst thing is, that even when I leave the stereo to start up completely, and then I crank up the engine, it starts to boot all over again...that's why I think a capacitor, like described in the video, would be perfect...it would keep the 12+ going to the accessory wire during the cranking and as soon as it would get out of power, the car would be already started, so it would have power again...that's my ideal situation...or should I just keep on dreaming?

[GingerFlame]

A capacitor would work, yes

I misunderstood what you were intending to do at first :)

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[ScorpionSX]

Ok great :) can this wiring (as described in the first post) be bought somewhere? I'm really looking for just sort of "plug and play" installation. I know I have to cut the wire and wire the capacitor wiring there, but I don't really want to mess it up, so I really just need "something" with two wires coming out of it, marked A and B, and to join wire A with one end of the stereo wire and wire B with the other end...

I do understand the tech behind it, I just don't know how exactly build something like this, and I don't want to short-circuit my stereo...

Btw, are there any negatives when using the capacitor? I read on one czech/slovakian forum, that it might not be the best solution...

[GingerFlame]

Ok great :) can this wiring (as described in the first post) be bought somewhere? I'm really looking for just sort of "plug and play" installation. I know I have to cut the wire and wire the capacitor wiring there, but I don't really want to mess it up, so I really just need "something" with two wires coming out of it, marked A and B, and to join wire A with one end of the stereo wire and wire B with the other end...

I do understand the tech behind it, I just don't know how exactly build something like this, and I don't want to short-circuit my stereo...

Btw, are there any negatives when using the capacitor? I read on one czech/slovakian forum, that it might not be the best solution...

I'm working now so can't reply in full. but a capacitor too large may drain the battery

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[biff55]

transfer the power to the stereo from the ignition live to a permanent live straight from the battery with an in-line fuse

thus the stereo remains powered up during cranking of the engine

saves a load of faff with capacitors and relays.........

[GingerFlame]

transfer the power to the stereo from the ignition live to a permanent live straight from the battery with an in-line fuse

thus the stereo remains powered up during cranking of the engine

saves a load of faff with capacitors and relays.........

The stereo has a permanent live & a switched signal wire.. hence this wouldn't be a great idea. The problem is the engine pulling the current away from the stereo. the car is wired this way so the engine takes priority power wise.

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[ScorpionSX]

Yeah I believe the stereo wired that way would be just permanently live, wouldn't it? It wouldn't turn on/off with the car...

The capacitor described in the video is a 2200uF 16V one...would that be dangerous? And also, there's a diode ...of whateverkind... I don't know what parameters to look for at a diode...

[GingerFlame]

Yeah I believe the stereo wired that way would be just permanently live, wouldn't it? It wouldn't turn on/off with the car...

The capacitor described in the video is a 2200uF 16V one...would that be dangerous? And also, there's a diode ...of whateverkind... I don't know what parameters to look for at a diode...

Surely it's 12v one you need?...

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[ScorpionSX]

??? sorry, don't understand now...I wrote that the video recommends 16V capacitor...

[Micro]

??? sorry, don't understand now...I wrote that the video recommends 16V capacitor...

In fact id recommend a 50v+ capacitor due to voltage spikes present on any car circuits. 105°C rating.

The capacitor may not actually be big enough to keep the radio running depending on how the car is actually wired. You may find that taking an ignition feed from a fuse tap (same as if you were wiring a dash cam in) may be all that's required if the car is cutting off the ignition wire to the radio (my cameras and phone do not lose power when cranking, wired to another fuse).

[Lenny]

Have you got an amplifier fitted or any plans to fit one?

Yeah I believe the stereo wired that way would be just permanently live, wouldn't it? It wouldn't turn on/off with the car...

The capacitor described in the video is a 2200uF 16V one...would that be dangerous? And also, there's a diode ...of whateverkind... I don't know what parameters to look for at a diode...

Have you got an amplifier fitted or any plans to fit one?

If yes;

Maybe worth fitting a 1 fared capacitor in the boot compartment,

Run a fused power feed from the capacitor to your headunit along with a DRL auto on relay.

Wire the sensor feed of the relay to a piggyback fuse which is live with ignition.

The capacitor will also help improve response of your amplifier.

Ultimately if you don't feel too confident in carrying out this task yourself I suggest obtaining a quote from local automotive electrician or car audio installer,

Shouldn't cost much and keep things right

Don't want to end up like this: 😀

[ScorpionSX]

Hi Lenny, no, so far, I'm not thinking about fitting an amp or subwoofer into boot...though I like your installation, especially the OEM look of the sub, I'm so far fine with the audio quality of the stock Speakers...

I really only need to get to the point that's in the video...