M1Tch's Fiesta Mk6 1.4 Tdci Daily Project

[chemfusion]

It'd be interesting to see the change in MPG with the MAF unplugged, I'm thinking about doing the same as mine is playing up - it's only a few months old so I don't want to just buy a new one without trying to clean it first. The Fusion runs sooo much better with it unplugged - it does error about it not being plugged in as well as an air intake temp error - but with the MAF plugged in it feels down on power and there's no obvious kick from the turbo.

I've found on mine that unplugging the MAF disables the EGR system which is probably helping (if you look at the valve duty cycle in Forscan it doesn't change unlike with the MAF plugged in).

Also you say a few times in that last post that with the MAF unplugged you get increased air flow - the MAF just measures the flow, it doesn't control it. Do you mean increased flow from removing the butterfly valve or blanking the EGR valve?

I've been trying to find a way of seeing if there is any changes to the fuelling with Forscan (my post in their forum here) but I'm yet to find anything that looks like fuel trim or the like.

[m1tch]

7 hours ago, chemfusion said:

It'd be interesting to see the change in MPG with the MAF unplugged, I'm thinking about doing the same as mine is playing up - it's only a few months old so I don't want to just buy a new one without trying to clean it first. The Fusion runs sooo much better with it unplugged - it does error about it not being plugged in as well as an air intake temp error - but with the MAF plugged in it feels down on power and there's no obvious kick from the turbo.

I've found on mine that unplugging the MAF disables the EGR system which is probably helping (if you look at the valve duty cycle in Forscan it doesn't change unlike with the MAF plugged in).

Also you say a few times in that last post that with the MAF unplugged you get increased air flow - the MAF just measures the flow, it doesn't control it. Do you mean increased flow from removing the butterfly valve or blanking the EGR valve?

I've been trying to find a way of seeing if there is any changes to the fuelling with Forscan (my post in their forum here) but I'm yet to find anything that looks like fuel trim or the like.

Hmm sounds a bit odd as with the MAF plugged in it should run better, interesting point about the EGR system, I guess it makes sense as the ECU would need to know the airflow to be able to know when the EGR should be open.

What I mean about the MAF being unplugged is about the fueling, without the MAF plugged in the ECU would be running on a fixed map using other sensors to calculate the air getting into the engine by looking at the RPM, air temp, boost etc.

I will see what I can look at tomorrow, with the Torque pro app you can see fuel flow, I will look at the fuel flow for different RPMs and then plug the MAF back in to see what happens - I do however know that when I plug the MAF in and rev the engine I do get a puff of black smoke - with the MAF unplugged there isn't any smoke. I therefore believe the MAF is overfueling the engine as its trying to match the higher airflow.

[m1tch]

Quick update on this again, the last tank of fuel I was stuck in hours of traffic so it wouldn't be a fair comparison, think it averaged out to be around 53mpg although 3 hours of that would have been stop start - so perhaps more similar to a combined town/motorway drive.

I have plugged the MAF back in again, I have a feeling I will need to get the car remapped due to the huge amount of extra air the engine is getting - I have a feeling that the injectors might be almost maxxing out when at the higher RPMs eg the engine is running lean on boost (fine on a diesel) - the issue is that the lack of fuel would mean less power.

I am going to run some more injector cleaner through the system this weekend as the last lot might have simply dislodged some muck in the system so could have started to reclog the injectors. I will also do a resistance test on the injectors to check that they are still all ok, I have used a car stethoscope to check the injectors when they do fire and they all seem to be ok.

One thing I might also try is to reduce the boost level of the engine by running on wastegate pressure instead of just over a bar of boost - this will mean that there would be less air flow through the engine so i would lose the top end power however I know that I would have fueling for the lower boost.

I might even find that with the lower boost level, because the fueling would be better at higher RPMs I might actually have more power vs running higher boost and leaning the engine.

I will keep trying different things though, one of the things I might also try is to relocate the fuel filter across slightly as its always in the way of the intake setup (hence the 90 degree elbow used). I might also have enough parts to now fit the MAF directly onto the turbo as is done with the 1.6 TDCi engines - still work in progress though as I need to get a catch can.

[Ace89]

2 hours ago, m1tch said:

Quick update on this again, the last tank of fuel I was stuck in hours of traffic so it wouldn't be a fair comparison, think it averaged out to be around 53mpg although 3 hours of that would have been stop start - so perhaps more similar to a combined town/motorway drive.

 So you are getting 53mpg with the cone filter fitted on the MAF?

Damn with the remap and EGR blanked im getting just 45mpg... I need to get that purge thing, but couldn't find a tutorial for the fiesta, since looking at the diesel filter i dont know witch hoses come from the pump and witch goes to the engine. Found this video for a TDi Engine. So I need some 8mm hoses, a inline filter, 2x adapters and Liqui Molly.

I need to mod the air intake, removing the L shape from the start of the snorkel  and maybe get a extra air filter box to mod...

 

[m1tch]

41 minutes ago, Ace89 said:

 So you are getting 53mpg with the cone filter fitted on the MAF?

Damn with the remap and EGR blanked im getting just 45mpg... I need to get that purge thing, but couldn't find a tutorial for the fiesta, since looking at the diesel filter i dont know witch hoses come from the pump and witch goes to the engine. Found this video for a TDi Engine. So I need some 8mm hoses, a inline filter, 2x adapters and Liqui Molly.

I need to mod the air intake, removing the L shape from the start of the snorkel  and maybe get a extra air filter box to mod...

 

I will take some photos for you tonight with regards to the correct lines - they are easy to get to but you do need to remove the metal shield on the top of the fuel filter to get access to one of them (just 2 bolts on top). The diesel purge does make quite a marked difference in terms of throttle response after you give it a clear out, I don't think my injectors were ever cleaned out so had around 110k miles on them prior to cleaning.

The 53mpg is low, usually averages around 56mpg, best so far has been 57.7mpg and that was also with quite a bit of traffic as well - I am thinking during the summer it should bump over the 60mpg mark. As a comparison, my old Clio 1.5 DCi (80) averaged 73mpg without any issues, it was in the high 70s for longer trips so I am still slightly dejected with the low MPG this car is giving. 

As said before, the airbox seems to be very restrictive in terms of air flow - the cone filter seems to flow around 50% more air through the system vs the standard airbox which causes me issues with regards to the fault codes - you shouldn't have this issue if its been remapped etc.

Only mods done so far are a cone filter on the MAF and an EGR blanking plate.

[Ace89]

1 hour ago, m1tch said:

As said before, the airbox seems to be very restrictive in terms of air flow - the cone filter seems to flow around 50% more air through the system vs the standard airbox which causes me issues with regards to the fault codes - you shouldn't have this issue if its been remapped etc.

There are2 things that i dont like about the use of the cone filter, looks "tunning" for the cops and i've heard that it lets flow more air, but more dust as well

BTW on the UK does the MOT or cops annoy you for the cone filter?
Im making a engine cover from a Citroen HDi cover, since the mounts are the same, just need to grind the HDI logo and add a "Ford Duratorq TDCi" sticker that i made in photoshop. It can hide the cone filter

[m1tch]

18 hours ago, Ace89 said:

There are2 things that i dont like about the use of the cone filter, looks "tunning" for the cops and i've heard that it lets flow more air, but more dust as well

BTW on the UK does the MOT or cops annoy you for the cone filter?
Im making a engine cover from a Citroen HDi cover, since the mounts are the same, just need to grind the HDI logo and add a "Ford Duratorq TDCi" sticker that i made in photoshop. It can hide the cone filter

Some cone filters are better than others, but if you think about it, you have an oil breather chucking dirty oil vapor into the engine as well as the EGR chucking soot and muck from the exhaust into the intake. I know that my cone filter won't be the best, but its tucked at the back of the engine bay so its not in the dust air coming from the front and to be honest the intake probably needs taking apart to get all of the EGR gunk out of it anyway!

With regards to cone filters, the induction noise you hear is from the engine pulling a vacuum and sucking the air through the cone, on a diesel the engine doesn't actually make any vacuum. The actual noise the cone filter I have makes is fairly minimal, at higher RPM or when on boost you do get a bit more noise but its not the same sort of noise as with a petrol engine - you also get slightly more turbo noise as well.

For the MOT in the UK it isn't an issue as its not something that is checked, the MOT in the UK checks for structural issues, worn components and general parts that would need replacing or servicing correctly (eg brakes). I know in other countries it is much stricter suck as in Germany where parts need to be approved to even be fitted - the issue we have in the UK is mainly the huge insurance hikes as soon as you do any mods. In the US they can do anything they want to cars, its the driver who is insured, whereas in the UK its the car that is insured and so anything non standard can sometimes cost quite a bit to add - if its not declared and you need to claim the insurance is void. Its why I haven't done a lot of mods to this car yet, I would have done a fair bit to the car already if it wasn't for the insurance costs.

I have never been stopped by police at any point on the road - I drive a basically stock older Fiesta diesel hatchback economically on the motorway, not really something that attracts attention.

Update on the MPG as well as I have just filled up, average of 58mpg on the last fill up - this include a stop start traffic jam as well as half an hour of checking and revving the engine and checking the logging.

As just mentioned I have had a look at the boost levels on my engine, everything is bone stock apart from the cone filter and EGR blanking plate, I can tell that when cruising at 60mph on the motorway (at around 2,100 rpm) I am actually on boost by around 2psi, the turbo spools between 1.5k and 2k,

I know in the past when I have had issues with boost pressure it has been due to the fact that the turbo was running on wastegate pressure - usually around 5psi so I figured that I would try a few turbo setups and see what the boost level was at full engine load whilst logging.

Initially I removed the hose from the wastegate and plugged the hose to ensure I had no boost leaks, the other test I did was with it all plugged in as it should be, eg the hose goes from the turbo the actuator, this is what I have found at 100% engine load:

OEM setup - 16 psi/1.1 bar

Unplugged wastegate - 21 PSI/1.4 bar

I am going to look to perhaps unclip the hose and then keep it open to atmosphere next time to see if this bleeds off the boost, I don't really want the higher levels of boost. I have a feeling that the increased airflow going through the MAF has increased fueling which in turn has increased exhaust gasses which in turn has increase the boost levels, increasing airflow etc.

Oddly it would seem that with an unplugged wastegate the actuator seems to increase the boost levels, usually the exhaust gasses force the wastegate open which limits the boost to fairly low (from experience)

Another thing to mention is that I unplugged all of the injector electrical connectors and sprayed electrical contact cleaner in them which did actually make a slight difference when reseated (2 of the connector clips were snapped by the garage).

I will continue with plans to fit the MAF directly to the turbo, still need to sort out a catch can but will report back on progress soon.

[m1tch]

Just a quick update I wanted to mention, I have run some more injector cleaner through the injectors and I think it has improved it slightly, although not as much of a difference vs the first time I run the cleaner. I also changed the fuel filter, the garage said that they had changed the filter when I bought the car but from the dirt on the top of the filter I am now doubting that. I can see that it has been replaced at some point as its a Unipart filter, have now replaced it with a new fuel filter and I think its helped.

This morning I reset my MPG counter and drove to work, most of its motorway driving but has a few roundabouts etc, when I parked up it was showing 73MPG - it was sitting at around 85mpg when on the motorway at a steady speed but dropped when needing to come off the junction etc.

I have done this before a while back and I seem to remember it just dropped back to down the 63MPG I was expecting (eg 56MPG with the 10% over-read on the trip counter), the 73mpg would indicate that the trip to work was returning around 65MPG.

I will see what happens for the rest of the tank and report back but seems to show a good improvement.

[m1tch]

Quick fueling update, this tank had mainly good traffic and the fuel filter was changed part way through, during this filter change I did lose a fair bit of fuel from the filter as well as some from when I forgot to connect it all back up before starting the car! Anyway, the last fill up returned an average of 59.5 mpg, I have reset the MPG computer and this morning on the way to work it was showing between 68-71 mpg, it finished at 70.5mpg when I parked up, this is the complete trip from driving around town with a cold engine to the motorway to traffic light controlled junctions to work. Taking off the 10% error on the MPG computer it would seem to now be returning around 63mpg - the official best fuel figure for the car is 56mpg in the lab so that's an approximate boost in MPG of 12%.

The mods on the car at the moment are only for a cone filter and the EGR blanked off, I have found that I seem to have got the best gains felt from the diesel purge injector cleaner and minor increases after the full oil change and the fuel filter change. The fuel filter change does seem to have restored some lost performance and the engine runs smoother - my guess is that when the injectors demand the additional fuel the old fuel filter might not have been able to supply enough going to the pump.

I will report back on how this tank goes but it does seem promising - not quite as good as the average 73mpg I was getting from my older 1.5 DCi Clio, but it will have to do, I think a remap might be on the cards as that might give me an extra boost further in MPG and overall power.

One thing I think might be causing the MPG to be lower is the fact that I am pretty sure I am on boost all of the time when on the motorway - around 2 psi, but the engine would be fueling for this extra constant boost. With the newer turbos with VNT they would usually shut off the boost when on cruise, I won't be able to do this on mine - will see if there is anything I can do however.

[m1tch]

MPG update - last fill up was at 61.3 mpg, this was including 2 days of stop start town driving and a traffic jam on the M25, the trip computer this morning shows an average of 70mpg so far. I have found that it seems to now settle at around 68-70mpg as an average which would work out at mid 60s mpg, the additional town driving I drove during the last tank would be the reason why it pulled it down slightly.

I believe that the 2nd round of diesel purge has helped again, however I believe the fuel filter has worked wonders for this tank, I also notice that the top of the engine is now dry eg there isn't any leaking diesel from the leak off lines. This could have been caused by the filter being old and partly blocked which would have then increased the pressure in the return line due to the reduced flow back to the filter. 

The official lab tested MPG for the car is apparently 62mpg which I would now agree with, however before the air and fuel filter changes it was averaging in the mid 50s - this shows that simple mods such as de-restricting the intake, blank the EGR and a good oil and filter service will yield good results. The car will probably never get to the 73MPG as the Clio did as the Fiesta is much heavier, it is more refined with less road noise.

I will look to get the car remapped at some point, but with stock mapping and the fueling being bumped up with the extra air flow I am happy with the car at the moment, its got plenty of power where you need it. It is geared for around town really so if I were to make a suggestion to Ford it would have been to add in a 6th gear, but I guess they were really never designed as a motorway cruiser.

[Ace89]

By the way the Engine cover turned out like this:

 

[Lenny]

5 hours ago, Ace89 said:

By the way the Engine cover turned out like this:

 

Looks great 👍

[m1tch]

Quick MPG update on the car:

• 59mpg with a full car of 4 people plus wedding things
• 61mpg on a long run with some town driving in the middle

I am still disappointed with the MPG on the car, but at least it gets from A to B, will probably give it another service in another few weeks.

[m1tch]

Just ordered another OEM air box (so I can return the car to standard when I do sell the car), I am however going to do a test with the airbox by removing the internal paper air filter and simply attaching the cone filter to the input of the airbox (where the snorkel fits). This will mean that I will be able to run a stock airbox (which might stop the MAF throwing a code) but also allow the intake to be less restrictive.

[m1tch]

On 6/22/2016 at 11:29 AM, Ace89 said:

By the way the Engine cover turned out like this:

 

Completely missed this - that looks awesome! usually don't like plastic engine covers but that really does smarten up the engine bay - not sure how it would work without a stock airbox but I am tempted to look into getting something like this!

 

Quick MPG update, the average MPG calculator usually sits at around 65mpg now, this is still commuting on the motorway with a mix of 60-70mph, was running slightly low on fuel today so drove at around 56mph to nurse the car back (forgot to fill up yesterday), anyway today the average MPG increased to 67.5 in just 70 miles.

After I filled up the car has done 61.9mpg with most of the tank with me driving at 70mph, still not as good as my previous car but ok I guess.

[m1tch]

MPG update again, I have just been up to a friend's wedding, its 200 miles each way or there abouts, during the trip there was mainly motoway driving on the M6, however I did hit around an hour of stop start traffic on the M6 as well as some town driving each end plus a cold engine when on the way back etc. the drive was at speeds of 60mph with overtakes etc of 70mph, I filled up at 242.5 miles, the car took on 14.2 litres of fuel - making it return 77.63 mpg.

The only thing I did different before setting off was to check all hoses, I tightened the boost hose fully as this wasn't 100% tight - might indicate that it was leaking boost slightly.

I will report back again next time I fill up to ensure that its not a one off but I had noticed that the MPG computer is still showing low 70 mpg (on the way back I was running at 70mph all the time).

Official ultra urban MPG for my car - 64 mpg

Actual MPG attained - 77.63 mpg

+13mpg or 21% over stock - only mod is the air filter, car is on 117k miles

[m1tch]

Minor update, I have just swapped out my heath Robinson intake setup and simply run a 60mm>76mm adaptor, this then goes into a aluminium 3" CAI and attached to the same cone filter. Before hand the intake was 60mm to the MAF, its not bumped up to a full 3" (76mm), the pipe is almost acting as a large airbox! In terms of difference in driving, I can tell that there is a slight increase in mid range but only a bit, main thing I have noticed is that the turbo spooled even sooner, I can hear it starting to spool at 1,125 rpm rather than nearer the 1,750 rpm mark.

I will report back to see if it improved MPG further but its good that it feels unrestricted, will fit a boost gauge soon hopefully and check the boost on load, I can tell that the stock turbo is running out of puff after around 3k rpm though.

[m1tch]

Initial tests this morning with regards to MPG are promising, the car was showing a MPG for the trip to work (quite a lot of hills) at 84.4mpg which works out at mid 70s mpg taking off the 10% error. Considering that I usually average mid to high 60s on my daily commute this is good news - I found that the throttle is smoother, it doesn't 'feel' powerful but it would seem that the power is now spread over a larger rev range due to the turbo spooling much earlier.

I will see how this goes once I run a full tank through it, but from what I can see the larger pipe does indeed help with MPG as the volume of filtered air within the pipe would be used as an airbox - the intake is now derestricted and the car has come a long way from where it started with just a simple mod. I am able to maintain 60mph on the motorway with around 1-2% throttle - basically just lightly resting my foot on the pedal.

[m1tch]

The MPG seems to be staying high which is good news, I reset the MPG computer before starting the car this morning and the car has returned 77.8mpg today which would work out at 70mpg removing the 10% error - so much better than the quoted stock MPG.

Here was the basic setup using cobbled together parts before, the pipe would have been 60mm:

Here is the setup now with the 3" pipe dropping to 60mm for the MAF:

You can see the comparison here with regards to the pipe size - the pipe is actually part of the stock snorkel to the airbox!

[m1tch]

Car just passed the MOT with a few advisories:

Rear springs corroded - was looking to replace these anyway as the fronts are new

Road wheel bead issue - I know that 1 wheel deflates more than others on the rear and already knew the alloy has a slight bit of damage (deflates around 4 psi every 2 weeks)

 

All in all, not a bad result, the car is on 119k miles, over this year I plan to:

• Replace the rear springs - very easy job with cheap parts
• Maybe look to replace the alloy with an OEM replacement
• New pair of tyres and rotate the current front tyres onto the rear
• Perhaps look to replace the brake discs with new OEM ones, current ones don't look amazing but are fine, I rarely use the brakes on my commute in
• Perhaps look to upgrade the brake pads with something else
• Replace the injector leak off lines (I have a new line just need to work out how to fit them with the intake in place)
• Look to fit an oil catch can
• Remove and clean the turbo compressor housing

[Lenny]

1 hour ago, m1tch said:

Car just passed the MOT with a few advisories:

Rear springs corroded - was looking to replace these anyway as the fronts are new

Road wheel bead issue - I know that 1 wheel deflates more than others on the rear and already knew the alloy has a slight bit of damage (deflates around 4 psi every 2 weeks)

 

All in all, not a bad result, the car is on 119k miles, over this year I plan to:

• Replace the rear springs - very easy job with cheap parts
• Maybe look to replace the alloy with an OEM replacement
• New pair of tyres and rotate the current front tyres onto the rear
• Perhaps look to replace the brake discs with new OEM ones, current ones don't look amazing but are fine, I rarely use the brakes on my commute in
• Perhaps look to upgrade the brake pads with something else
• Replace the injector leak off lines (I have a new line just need to work out how to fit them with the intake in place)
• Look to fit an oil catch can
• Remove and clean the turbo compressor housing

If you fit the Eibach lowering springs it will slightly improve mpg there also powdercoated black more resistant than stock,

Not too low as I have fitted and never encountered any scraping anywhere, greatly improved handling aswell.

as for upgrading brake pads; I highly recommend some EBC Green pads, there also low carbon dust, so your wheels don't dirty as fast. 

Crude Performance manufacture custom oil catch tanks to fit the 1.6TDCi engine I'm sure it will also fit the 1.4 as they share some similarities.

I enjoy reading this thread although rarely commenting on still a follower 👍

[m1tch]

3 hours ago, Lenny said:

If you fit the eibach lowering springs it will slightly improve mpg there also powdercoated black more resistant than stock,

Not too low as I have fitted and never encountered any scraping anywhere, greatly improved handling aswell.

as for upgrading brake pads; I highly recommend some EBC Green pads, there also low carbon dust, so your wheels don't dirty as fast. 

Crude Performance manufacture custom oil catch tanks to fit the 1.6TDCi engine I'm sure it will also fit the 1.4 as they share some similarities.

I enjoy reading this thread although rarely commenting on still a follower 👍

Thanks Lenny, I have decided to keep the suspension stock instead of going with Eibach springs, typically I was going to order the Eibach springs when I had the OEM front spring crack on me and just needed to get it back on the road. Can't really justify taking the suspension back apart again to fit the lowering springs so will just be going with the stock springs moving forward. I have noticed with the new dampers however that the ride is slightly more sporty - eg the car isn't running tired old dampers anymore.

I was looking at the Greenstuff pads, heard only good things about them.

Will check out that catch can, the cam cover seems to have quite a massive breather line compared to other cars!

Glad you enjoy reading this thread, hopefully it will be useful for others to read as well in the future, just changing that air filter has made a massive difference to the car, as the turbo is so small and spools up so quickly there aren't really many gains to be had from modding the exhaust. I do still have a boost gauge to fit at some point, trying to work out the best way to plumb it all in to check the boost levels but its still running stock boost.

[Lenny]

1 hour ago, m1tch said:

Thanks Lenny,

Will check out that catch can, the cam cover seems to have quite a massive breather line compared to other cars!

Glad you enjoy reading this thread, hopefully it will be useful for others to read as well in the future, just changing that air filter has made a massive difference to the car, as the turbo is so small and spools up so quickly there aren't really many gains to be had from modding the exhaust. I do still have a boost gauge to fit at some point, trying to work out the best way to plumb it all in to check the boost levels but its still running stock boost.

The large breathing pipe makes it almost impossible to find a proper catch tank to fit,

Here's a link to the one I mentioned: http://www.nbstyling.co.uk/store/?pID=23 

I've Green Stuff pads fitted on my focus and there great improvement over stock.

A boost gauge is great for assisting with economical driving because modern turbos are variable vain they fade off boost as the engine builds to sustain speed, 

By fitting boost gauge you can see when your driving is more economical at 5mph less than say 80mph because boost isint as high.

you will see yourself in time to come 👍

[m1tch]

3 hours ago, Lenny said:

The large breathing pipe makes it almost impossible to find a proper catch tank to fit,

Here's a link to the one I mentioned: http://www.nbstyling.co.uk/store/?pID=23 

I've Green Stuff pads fitted on my focus and there great improvement over stock.

A boost gauge is great for assisting with economical driving because modern turbos are variable vain they fade off boost as the engine builds to sustain speed, 

By fitting boost gauge you can see when your driving is more economical at 5mph less than say 80mph because boost isint as high.

you will see yourself in time to come 👍

Do you think its worth looking to neck the breather pipe down slightly

I will look to get some greenstuff pads, I have used Mintex and Black diamond discs before and they worked well on a different car, this car only has discs on the front and I know the Ford drum rears aren't the best anyway. Think I will just go with an OEM disc with better pads :)

The 1.4 TDCi has the old school wastegate on it, I am mainly looking to add the boost gauge to check what the boost is on load as well as on the motorway cruise. I have a feeling that the car is producing a small amount of boost when at motorway speeds now with very little input. The other reason for the boost gauge is to check to see at what point the boost tails off at higher RPM.

On the RX7 I had an AVC-r electronic boost controller which sensed which gear the car was in and varied the boost level/amount of boost to bleed to maintain the required boost levels eg holding the wastegate closed for slightly longer to give better spool but without the boost spike top end. Just interesting to see what sort of boost the turbo is running, I also have an air intake temp sensor I am going to put on as well - that small turbo at high boost is probably blowing flames into the engine lol!

[m1tch]

I am doing a kinda mini fuel test on this tank of fuel, basically I am not worrying about conserving fuel at all, driving the car at 70mph including the uphill gradients and generally trying to use as much fuel as possible. I figure I might as well see what sort of MPG it will return as a worst case scenario, so far my MPG trip computer is currently showing it around 67mpg - so I would guess this tank will work out at around 60mpg to account for the error.

Will post up when I refuel over the weekend - curious to see the result as well!