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High Def Wax


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#1 EzzyRallyBoy

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 01:21 PM

Treated the little beauty to some drying towels and some Autoglym High Definition Wax, yeah

Now I have no intention of going to the super detailers level of car presentation, but have at least moved on from a bucket and sponge to a two bucket system, microfibre mitts, drying towels and expensive wax (thanks to this forum), so my next questions are :-

1. How many times will I be able to wax the Fiesta with the 150g tub of High Def Wax - how long will a pot last ??

2. Following a wash and a towel dry can I just apply the High Def Wax, even though it had been previously waxed (turtle wax - sorry !!!) without any issues ?? - I know some of you experts will probably say apply Dodo this and Dodo that with Dodo pre pre pre wash shamoo etc and this might be the ultimate way of preserving ya car but I don't want to spend 10 hours on it, just look after it and make it shine, so is there any reason why I can't just wash, towel dry and add High Def Wax in its current state ??

3. Is it possible to over wax ya car ?? - i.e. how many more times could I wax it before winter, once, twice as many as ya like ??

Thanks all

Ezzy

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#2 greenymk7

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 03:49 PM

in answer to your questions,

1 - you should be able to keep that tub of wax for at least 2/3 years.

2 - ideally you want to cleanse the paint before you wax the car so it gets rid of any other remaining wax and contaminates, BUT yes you can wax over the top of existing wax.

3 - you cant over wax the car but in the end anymore wax layers are pointless. Ideally you want between 2-5 over winter. then after your normal wash and dry use a quick detailer to protect the wax.

hope that helps

#3 EzzyRallyBoy

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 04:32 PM

Magic thanks Greeny mate

Never really polished up the Rally car, the panels never stayed straight enough long enough !!!!!!!!!!!

#4 EzzyRallyBoy

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 05:34 PM

Having splashed out on the Dodo Juice Supernatural drying towel, gotta say very disapointed

Does it soak up more water than the far cheaper Dodo Juice soft touch drying towel that I also bought, I am not so sure

But do either of them really soak up water, hmmmm maybe but it didn't take long before they both were damp and as soon as you lay it on another part of the car it transfers moisture from the towel to the car not soak it up

I actually read a review somewhere were someone reckons they dropped it in a puddle and it soaked it up - rollox it did, gives the impression they are sponge like it their capability to soak water, no frickin' way

Great idea patting the car dry rather than rubbing it dry, but there must be far cheaper alternatives out there than these so called "super absorbant" car drying towels, any towel would do the job just as long as it was soft

No need to spend 25 a towel !!!!!!!!!!!

#5 DanGull

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:49 AM

No towel will soak up a whole car's worth of surface water and not get sopping wet - they should be wrung out after every body panel, or you need more than one.

You may also like top try sheeting - but this works best on a waxed car. Using a very gentle trickle of water from a hose, finish the rinse by running the hose up and down the car so that water sheets off and doesn't leave large puddles and droplets on the paint. There are also drying products on the market to aid this process, made by guess who....

Towels should hold a shed load of water mind, you may have a bad one. In the washing process of my cloths and towels I fill my sink half full with water and chuck them all in - they absorb nearly 100% of the water, I have to fill the sink over again.

I use my large towel to do the bonnet and roof, then have a soft touch for each side of the car. The large towels have more chance ending up on the floor if you use them on the side of the car I find.

Using a normal towel tends to result in linting - you won't get that with a mf drying towel.

And re question 2 in your first post, I find waxing over old wax that has anything more than a few miles on it is pointless. You're sealing in a deteriorating coat of wax. As Greeny says, apply several coats of wax at a major detail interval and then top the wax up with a quick detailer rather than sealing it in with fresh wax. If you want to wax every time, and I often just get an urge to :lol: then I suggest you take the old wax off first. To do this I use a strong APC solution straight after the snow foam to remove the old wax and get back to bare paint - then start the whole process again. If you don't have an All Purpose Cleaner (a relatively cheap detailing product that I wouldn't be without) then shock horror - Fairy Liquid will strip your wax, just make sure it's rinsed very thoroughly before you got near the car with a wash mitt.

Oh, and re 10 hours on each wash - if you do a massive detail every 3 months (which in my case is this):-

Wheel clean - citrus snow foam lower area/degrease arches and tryes - rinse - snow foam - rinse - 2 bucket wash - rinse - dry - clay - snow foam - rinse - two bucket wash - rinse - dry - polish/correct - prime - wax (2+ coats) - LSP

Then your top up details take far LESS time than most people's normal wash. The fact that your paint is in top condition and has excellent products on it means your car washes and dries much more easily.

Wheels - foam - two bucket wash - top up wax takes me less than an hour.

#6 UKChris

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 12:04 PM

Dan how long do you leave between coats of wax,

also when you snow foam do you just rince it off, I'm not convinced that when i did it, it got much off.

#7 DanGull

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 01:37 PM

Ideally 24 hours between coats, that way you now the first layer is 100% cured. Absolute minimum 4 hours for me. Otherwise, when you buff your second coat of wax, you may remove the original one.

Snow foam needs to dwell for around 15 minutes. I take the chance to go round with the APC and a brush and get into the details - badges and the like.

Foam is nothing more than a pre-wash - it loosens material to be taken off with the bucket wash and removes most of the large material that may scratch the paint. If you expect for the car to be really clean after a foam, you'll be disappointed.

It loosens bugs, dirt and even tar much more gently than bug/tar removers - it's also wax safe whereas these are not.

#8 UKChris

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 02:28 PM

So do you wash the car again before the next coat of wax, assuming it has been 24 hours?

#9 DanGull

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 02:36 PM

No - I keep the car in the garage so a quick wipe down with a very soft microfibre before the next coat.

#10 alexavfc

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 11:55 AM

I got some HD wax, just waiting for my sealent before I give it a go, but from what I've read on Detailing world, its a very highly regarded wax

#11 greenymk7

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 12:04 PM

i wouldnt use a sealent over wax.

several coats of wax will do the job perfectly well.

on the other hand i do use sealent instead of wax on the wheels

also remember a wax is only as good as the prep work you put in before hand, you need a perfectly clean and smooth surface for the wax to bond to

#12 alexavfc

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 12:27 PM

i wouldnt use a sealent over wax.

several coats of wax will do the job perfectly well.

on the other hand i do use sealent instead of wax on the wheels

also remember a wax is only as good as the prep work you put in before hand, you need a perfectly clean and smooth surface for the wax to bond to


I use the sealent (AG Extra gloss protection) after using Autoglym SRP, with a wax to finish, which used to be Megs, but now giving HD a go

#13 greenymk7

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 12:42 PM

id say wax straight on top of SRP would be best.

wax onto of sealents don't bond as well as they could do, which then means you end up waxing more

#14 alexavfc

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 12:46 PM

id say wax straight on top of SRP would be best.

wax onto of sealents don't bond as well as they could do, which then means you end up waxing more


Had no idea, waste of 8 notes then!

My car only has 200 miles on, would you say that a clay is really necessary (I ask as I don't have enough left in my megs bottle to clay the whole car)

Thanks

#15 greenymk7

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 12:57 PM

i recently bought the bilt hamber auto clay and its amazing stuff.

http://www.theultima...CFWAB4wodAEaI1g

can be used with just water as lubricant as i did on a black bmw 3 series and it tooks huge amounts of sand off the car

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