Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information

C Max 1.8 Tdci Auxiliary Belt Alignment Help Needed.


jamesakers
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi really need some help im puzzled here. recently replaced my alternator on a 2008 c max 1.8 tdci, on buying a new belt which wherever i look states it is a 6 rib 1520 lentgh it seems way to long if i route it in the way a digram shows which ill add. it is the only diagram i can find that looks exactly the same as my pulley set up. now the question is what belt should be fitted because if it is a different lentgh for the life of me i cant find it. does anyone have any clues, the picture ive added seems to be from a 2008 focus 1.8 tdci but is the closest i can get to my c max pulley and routing diagram. any help is greatley appreciated. it is figure 1 on the pic with A/C not the right side.

post-36171-0-75079500-1451235184_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Hi really need some help im puzzled here. recently replaced my alternator on a 2008 c max 1.8 tdci, on buying a new belt which wherever i look states it is a 6 rib 1520 lentgh it seems way to long if i route it in the way a digram shows which ill add. it is the only diagram i can find that looks exactly the same as my pulley set up. now the question is what belt should be fitted because if it is a different lentgh for the life of me i cant find it. does anyone have any clues, the picture ive added seems to be from a 2008 focus 1.8 tdci but is the closest i can get to my c max pulley and routing diagram. any help is greatley appreciated. it is figure 1 on the pic with A/C not the right side.

the only other way I can see to route the belt is on the modded pic here, but if I do this the 1520 belt becomes way to short. I actually broke the tensioner by trying to take to much tension of doing it this way. one the bolt to far in and snapped the back off the tensioner lol.

post-36171-0-01352700-1451235807_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

those images are correct, measure up new belt against the old one, and is the pulley on the new one the same as the old one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

those images are correct, measure up new belt against the old one, and is the pulley on the new one the same as the old one?

yep pulley is the same, but the old belt was a 1520 as well. they must have struggled like hell to get it on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did you use a bolt to take the tension off the belt when removing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


did you use a bolt to take the tension off the belt when removing?

yes, but the pulley was at max tension. so tightened bolt slightly to take tension off, trouble is I never recorded how the belt was routed. and the only obvious way I can see is the other pic I added with the black line for the alternate route, but as I said if I use that route the 1520 belt is to short even with all the tension taken out off the pulley this is how I broke the old tensioner trying to push it too far and past as loose at it would go and snapping the stud off the back where the bolt puts pressure on. and I mean if I do the alternate route it really is too tight. do the original route and honestly I seem to have about 4 inch of slack belt with a 1520. I'm really confused lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right guys all sorted it was 1520 belt and it must have been a funny tensioner, fitted new tensioner and it worked fine. However I now have a new problem. Car started fine no battery light for 2 days pulled up turned car off now it wont start just a clicking noise and all lights and dials dim. Bumped started car drove fine no battery warning light but still wont turn over with key just clicking noise. Any suggestion. Obviosly I fitted a reconditioned alternator about 3days ago new belt and tensioner had battery tested at that point too and it was fine. Could it be the starter?.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clicking and lights dimming would indicate a flat battery. Have you tested what voltage your getting with the engine running?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does sound like battery flat ,possibly due to alternator not charging. you need to check the battery voltage now, then check voltage after bump starting/engine running.

does battery light come on with just the ign on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what brand is the new alternator too?

yeh, i was thinking that one also.lol

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

oil and battery light stay on until car is started, always been like that. I'll get battery tested. Its.really is a rapid clicking not slow and didn't die down like a machine gun firing lol. I would have thought if alternator was still at fault the battery warning light would have come back on when I bumped the car and ran it for a while but there was no battery warning light when it bumped and started.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also not sure on brand but it is under a warranty if though its a reconditioned part.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest Deals

Ford UK Shop for genuine Ford parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via the club

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share






×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership