Vacuum pressure/engine stalling when slowing down with pictures
Posted 14 October 2009 - 09:13 PM
I thought i found the fix to the car with the pcv nope it came back today to bit me on the !Removed!
i found a way though if u take the one pipe off the head underneath manifold and put ur finger over it or over the nozzle the enginwill try and stall like it does when i am slowing down but it wont stall fully it will realise then kick itself back upto life just like it normallydoes look at the drawings below
Wht doyou thinkif i get 3 small little filters similar to the ones below with a bit of hose on and attach to the head
when u drive the car with out the pcv valve in the car willrunandidle about 1,300rpm then drive fine shriek a bit like alternator / air con trying to kick in and then be fine but when u slow down and put foor down on clutch it will go to 3000rpm then slowlyidle down to 1,300rpm again this does not bring on a eml light but the stalling thing wont happen thing is i will screw my engine running it like this
thethre filterone will sit on the one nozzle one side of pcv valve then other on otherside of pcv then on on the pcv valve itself WILL THIS WORK?
FILTERS X 3 OF THEM
MY PCV VALVE
THE THREE HOSES ALL JOIN TOGETHER LIKE THE ONE IN THE PICTURE BELOW VIA A 3 WAY HOSE CONNECTOR
THIS IS MY VERSION OF THE CREATING MY OWN PCV SYSTEM TO STOP MY ENGINE STALLING WHEN SLOWING DOWN WELL ATTEMPT I SHOULD SAY (sorry about caps)
THE PCV VALVE SITS IN THE LOWER PART O THE MANIFOLD BOX NOT THE ENGINE BY THE WAY DRAWING SLIGHTLY WRONG
Can anyone help on this matter as this is driving me insanennow as i have found the problem now is trying to find a fix for it
any help or comments be much appriciated
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Posted 14 October 2009 - 10:48 PM
Posted 14 October 2009 - 11:42 PM
Posted 20 October 2009 - 11:34 PM
Right once again out having a mess with the car
Got toldtoday the pipe underneath the manifold collapse inside this causes the problem but
unpluggged today somehtingwhich ithought was to do with alternator ah far from it its like a valve egr type thing on the manifold now unpluggin this car starter but was a bit hesitant then took it for a drive it just jerked twice before going into different gear but stalling never happend revs were fine with slowing down
NOW after a short while of it being unplugged obviously flagged up fault mil light i just took battery off as i knew what i had done to this so it wernt a problem but doe anyone know what this valve is or does i think weekend i might be getting it out and giving it a clean up to be fair
rang me mate at ford he said he nver even thought too run a check on that costhe pcvvalve cleareit for about a day so hedidnt now none the wiser but said would find out if its one unit or it can be replaced i hope its not oo much
I have put a few pics below to see if anyone can identiyfy it if so please let me know i u have had same trouble with it
MESSAGE TO ADMIN IF I SOLVE THIS CAN I BE MADE LIKE MOD OF MAINTENANCE LIKE A SUPER TECHGURU FOR ALL THE TIME I HAVESPENT PUTTING INTO FINDING THIS FAULT I WILL DO A CRACKING GUIDE ON IT AND WE WILL BE THE ONLY FORD SITE I KNOW THAT HAS IT AS I HAVE TRIED EVERY ONE OF THEM AND THEY ARE ALL NAFF PLUS I WANNA STARTGOINGMEETS AGAIN AND FIXING THE CAR UP DOING GUIDES LIEK I WAS GOING TO DO BEFORE OH AND GET A NEW KEYBOARD SO I CAN TYPEWITH PUNCTUATION AND SPEED LOL
thankyouall for reading and following me on this problem as u all know i have had it for a long itme
Posted 22 October 2009 - 11:46 PM
Posted 25 December 2009 - 09:01 AM
When you found the collapsed pipe...did it not help when you replaced it?
Posted 30 December 2009 - 08:25 PM
Sorry i have not updated this for so long, i have been really busy lately got a promotion at work so been working harder than normal a lot harder anyways besides that
as for the focus
well i think i have cracked it like i always think i have but i feeling now as its the only sensor i have not changed on there its the MAP Sensor
reason belives this to me as when u unplug this yes u get the eml light come on but the car runs perfectly like it should just judders twice before going into gear so its not really feasable to drive it round like that
A new sensor from Ford £54.00 inc vat to me i have thought about a second hand one but its not really worth it as they go for around £30 +vat i searched on ebay cheapest was £22.95 + postage but what it is worth and i will never find out if that was the real problem
i might try this end of Jan to be fair as for the pipes yes i did replace them £13 later made no differance at all other than i have got a new set of pipes on there
my mate at ford said it could possibly be a crack in the manifold but without pressure testing it which is a pain and a time consuming job there aint much point having it done and to try the sensor first
well the adventure still goes on as u can tell and i will get there and when i do i will try to do a picture thread of how to change it for everyone but might not be that easy will try though
will keep u all posted as and when i do it
P.S Have a happy new year
Posted 30 December 2009 - 08:38 PM
will also get the chance to run and record live data so it should be interesting.
Posted 30 January 2010 - 12:11 AM
this is well worth a look at sounds similar to my problem hmmmmm,,,,,,,,
and cheap solution too
you may need an ecu software upgrade i hear its worked for a lot of people you can spend money changing every sensor on the car trust me ive had these experiences ive spent masses of cash before changing almost everything i could get to and the manifold was cracked in the end ide take it to ford and tell them you arent paying for half a dozen diagnostics youll pay for one and want a souloutin
Posted 29 March 2010 - 02:17 AM
Not been on here for a while but seen as i cant drive for the moment (dislocated my knee and im in a cast for the next 6 weeks) i have been thinking a lot about my prblem
i never went to get its ecu remapped seemed a awful lot of money for something not to work £350 was cheapest i got quoted although there service was awesome
My car has done nearly 80,000 miles could my problem be MY CLUTCH
See this problem only happens when the cars slwoing down and when its warm well slowing down clutch not disengaging , being warm when clutch is warm i spose but it should do this in the cold am i not right
well anyways im going to have the clutch done as it does slip from time to time and is a bit dodgy its really high where as in my mums car exactly the same focus only hers has 35,000 on the clock for a 51 reg awesome it does not have this problem
any ideas guys or am i just barking up the wrong tree again with money being tight due to me not being able to work GORDON PATHETIC BROWN paying me SSP £14.50 A DAY yes i dont expect a lot for doing nothing but i have worked ever since i was 17 im 21 now think i have paid more than enough into the state but as u can see money to be spending is not a option unless utmost neccessary my clutch prices at the bottom
1.nationwide auto centers
£380 clutch using oe replacement parts from unipart
(2 YEAR WARRANTY UNLIMITED MILEAGE)
2.ford (HA HA SOMEONE WAS TAKING THE MICK)
£400 JUST FOR LABOUR WITH
£326 PARTS ON TOP
(12 MONTH WARRANTY)
3.HI Q (WANTED THE CAR FOR A WHOLE DAY THEN TO RETURN IT THE NEXT)
(12 MONTHS WARRANTY)
4.My local garage CHELMSLEY WOOD AUTO CENTERS
(used this place for years and for various bits and pieces great guys down there and always look after my car)
(12 months warranty)
So cheap enough really has my clutch done well to get to 80,000 which to my knowledge not been changed oh and all the above come with new slave cylinder
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