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New clutch problems


Devondave
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Hi guys 

Signed up here hoping someone can help me out before I go back to the garage and possibly get ripped off

Yesterday I took a trip from Manchester to Blackpool and the clutch began slipping to the point where I limped it back to Manchester and couldn't get above 60mph on the motorway without it slipping (probably shouldn't have even taken it on the motorway but without cover I had little option)

Anyway this morning I took it to a local garage and he jumped in and confirmed it was the clutch slipping and I needed a new one which parts plus labour would be around £350 (that's about the average price I had seen when I researched it online last night ) I left it with him at 10am ish and by 4 pm he had text to say it was sorted ... At this point I was happy with the job etc I went and collected it this evening and on driving home it's running like a bag of dodo I couldn't get more than 20mph going up hill in 2nd gear (no high revs just no power ) and when I eventually made it to the top and changed upto 3rd it was juddering and just had no power.

Now I've spoken to the guy and going to take it back in the morning but what I don't want is him to say this is gone that's gone it's going to cost £££ when before the clutch fault it was running fine. 

Is this just coincidental? Or has he messed up timings or something ? (I know little about mechanics etc so he could sail me down the river here and rinse me of my hard earned £££)
 
 
When I got it home put it in reverse gears crunched and it jolted backwards 

The car is a petrol focus ti vct 1.6 and it's an 06 plate 

Any ideas or info would be good 

Cheers

Dave
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Sounds like it may not have been the clutch after all ! If the original problem was the clutch, had you revved the car hard the RPM would have risen sharply but the MPH wouldn't.

Hopefully it's not the VCT fault that a few on the forum have suffered. I bought a 1.6 focus and only found out later that there is the 'bog standard' (mine) 100PS and the VCT version (115PS) which when it goes faulty can cost a bit to fix!

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43 minutes ago, Russ said:

Sounds like it may not have been the clutch after all ! If the original problem was the clutch, had you revved the car hard the RPM would have risen sharply but the MPH wouldn't.

Hopefully it's not the VCT fault that a few on the forum have suffered. I bought a 1.6 focus and only found out later that there is the 'bog standard' (mine) 100PS and the VCT version (115PS) which when it goes faulty can cost a bit to fix!

Thank you for the reply 

 

I think it was the clutch (I mean I know nothing about cars to be honest) if I feathered the pedal I could accelerate slowly soon as I tried to pull away a bit quicker the revs shot up and the speed didn't move almost as if I was dipping the clutch with my foot on the accelerator if that makes sense?

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Hopefully they forgot to reconnect something after putting the new clutch in. This sounds totally unrelated to the clutch but they have knocked something or not reconnected it.

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to be honest the price seems too cheap a clutch kit for this car for an luk clutch is £169.00 did they do a full kit clutch and slave cylinder or just the clutch itself

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All the receipt says is supply and fit new clutch assembly 

 

he did tell me something along the lines of "the wires are very brittle on the connection for the coil" again knowing little about cars I just rolled my eyes and said thanks for telling me he said "he got the engine light come on and he reconnected those wires and reset it and it should be fine now" but if I get a problem in the future that is where it will be

 

 

does this make sense to anyone? 😳

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what's the coil wires got to do with the gearbox and clutch he didn't have to touch them new clutch assembly can be a clutch n pressure plate or clutch pressure plate and slave cylinder .its true the coil wires can break but a new piggy back cable supplied by ford should be fitted but as said there was no reason to touch it its up top the gearbox is below

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If you've ever fitted a clutch then you'll be aware that your hands and tools are down beside those very wires to the coil. Perhaps they have nipped one or maybe there genuinely has been an issue. Trouble is you'll probably never prove it. 

Any damage to those wires will be easy to see most likely. Some insulating tape would be a very quick and temp fix if there is any split insulation. 

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9 minutes ago, artscot79 said:

what's the coil wires got to do with the gearbox and clutch he didn't have to touch them new clutch assembly can be a clutch n pressure plate or clutch pressure plate and slave cylinder .its true the coil wires can break but a new piggy back cable supplied by ford should be fitted but as said there was no reason to touch it its up top the gearbox is below

Again I don't know as I have no knowledge of cars that's what mechanics are for and stupidly I trust them lol 

 

but regardless of if he should have been touching them this could be the issue? Because I know nothing I don't want him spinning me a yarn about how this that and the other could be the problem when in actual fact it was down to him poorly fitting the clutch I'm prepared to fight and argue and not pay him a penny but I'm in a position where he is the mechanic I know nothing and can't argue anything on that basis 

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40 minutes ago, Devondave said:

All the receipt says is supply and fit new clutch assembly 

 

he did tell me something along the lines of "the wires are very brittle on the connection for the coil" again knowing little about cars I just rolled my eyes and said thanks for telling me he said "he got the engine light come on and he reconnected those wires and reset it and it should be fine now" but if I get a problem in the future that is where it will be

 

 

does this make sense to anyone? 😳

Id say he fitted the standard clutch kit which is usually clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing, In doing this job all kinds of things get moved/ disconnected to get the box out, so its possible to damage the wiring to the coil.. just tell him that it wasn't running crap when you left it in and see can you work something out with him.

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15 minutes ago, Tzsteve said:

Id say he fitted the standard clutch kit which is usually clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing, In doing this job all kinds of things get moved/ disconnected to get the box out, so its possible to damage the wiring to the coil.. just tell him that it wasn't running crap when you left it in and see can you work something out with him.

Oh yeah I'm a friendly polite chap usually to honest and genuine for my own good which is how I easily get mugged off and so just wanted to find ideas from people on what it could be how it happened and how to fix ... If it is just a knocked wire that's a few quid to fix then so be it if it's that he fitted the clutch wrong and timings are out (is this even possible? ) then I may not be the nice laid back guy ... To be fair he seemed a genuine chap etc etc although they do say these are the ones to watch so who knows!

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Does sound like the coil wires have been knocked and as they can be brittle, this could be the issue, as stef said fitting clutch does involve getting hands and tools for removing parts to access top gearbox bolts

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37 minutes ago, iantt said:

Does sound like the coil wires have been knocked and as they can be brittle, this could be the issue, as stef said fitting clutch does involve getting hands and tools for removing parts to access top gearbox bolts

Great thank you for the reply 

 

now lads the big question how much should this cost me?

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nothing he damaged them if its the coil the ti vct uses info on the spark timings etc so its likely its preventing the ti vct from kicking in as well so it will have no go it will be worse than limp mode ...never done a clutch stef but never had damage to wires from having any done either it was probably an accident he admitted to it at the least they can fit the new wiring for free in sure the new wire loom was about £30

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Just a quick update 

 

car is at the garage again and the chap says he will sort it 

 

it took 3 attempts to start and when it finally did start it sounded more like a tractor than a petrol focus with knocking and rattling noises that I have never heard before (maybe he left his tool box under the bonnet too? 😃) but once I got it moving and arrived at the garage those noises seem to have dissapeared ..

 

anyway it made it to the garage he is going to sort it he says and I will update with info on what the problem was and if I get it repaired for free or not when I get it back 

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Ok just got off the phone to the "mechanic " he says the plugs are full of water he's got 2 out the others are rusted solid and he didn't want to risk braking them 🤔

 

This is slightly concerning to me as when my local mechanic did the mot and service just before xmas he said the same thing and asked if I have been driving through flood water etc so since then I have taken great care in avoiding any puddle ... My guess is it's not a puddle/floodwater and something is leaking or water is getting in somehow? Is this a common thing? Anyone know any fixes? My water bottle is full infact I can't remember the last time I had to put water in the car so no obvious leaks from there to my knowledge 

 

he said he changed the 2 plugs he got out and it ran better but was still misfiring so he is going to have a go at getting them out tomorrow 

 

if anyone can shed any light on water getting in that would be great I can't see how this only occurred after the clutch was fitted but I can't believe they would rust solid overnight either so maybe it was a fault waiting to happen and just coincidental I don't know :(  

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I've got a TDCI but I'm sure the MK2 petrols suffer from the screenwash jets leaking into the spark plugs.  (I'm sure some petrol owners will be along shortly with more precise info).

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There is indeed a bit of an issue on the mk2 where water leaks through from the washer jets and gathers in the plug ports. 

I have successfully fixed it on a coupe of them with the new revised washer jets and silicone grease not sealant on the gasket. 

As for the seized plugs, filling the plug port with a good amount of penetrating oil and allow it to soak for a few hours might help. If not someone with an air impact spark plug remover will get them. It's basically an impact gun with low and controlled torque to remove stubborn glow plugs and spark plugs. Finding some one with one though..

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It could be leaking washer jets. Lift the bonnet and get someone to press the window washer stalk to check the water isn't leaking from the hose. If that's ok then suspect the jet itself as they are known to let water through into the engine bay. If that's your problem remove the jets and seal underneath them with a little silicon sealant. (Also put sealant around the underside of them from the engine compartment.) if the water was coolant it would have a colour to it and a smell and you'd notice if your level was lower.

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13 minutes ago, Russ said:

It could be leaking washer jets. Lift the bonnet and get someone to press the window washer stalk to check the water isn't leaking from the hose. If that's ok then suspect the jet itself as they are known to let water through into the engine bay. If that's your problem remove the jets and seal underneath them with a little silicon sealant. (Also put sealant around the underside of them from the engine compartment.) if the water was coolant it would have a colour to it and a smell and you'd notice if your level was lower.

Thank you everyone I've had a little read around and yeah washer jets is what everyone is coming back with once I get the car back from the chap and hopefully it's running ok (I live in torquay currently I'm in Manchester ) I will drive it back home and get to work on fixing the jets 

 

must of just been coincidental that it happened when he changed the clutch and/or damaged the core pack which he says he is going to replace too so hopefully it will be running fine to get back home next week 

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I bought the jets from OMC In Oldham they were about £10 as your up this way ! Good Luck 

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55 minutes ago, MrRedman said:

I bought the jets from OMC In Oldham they were about £10 as your up this way ! Good Luck 

Great thank you I will look that one up and pay them a visit on Tuesday 

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On 23 March 2016 at 7:15 PM, MrRedman said:
On 23 March 2016 at 8:11 PM, Devondave said:

Great thank you I will look that one up and pay them a visit on Tuesday 

So today I picked the car up all fixed and running well ... It even pulled up the hill in 4th when last week it struggled in 1st

And so off fishing I went ... I got to Blackpool did my thing then on the way back no !Removed! power again (nearly killed me on the round about!) 

 

it was all running fine til I stopped at a set of lights then whilst pulling away there was just no power and I had to limp back to Manchester again luckily it would go over 50mph on the motorway but only just and that was with my foot flat to the floor in 4th 

and when stopping at roundabouts etc the revs dipped virtually to nothing I got a shudder as if it was going to stall and then the revs perked up again 

 

gonna see if I can get it to the ford garage tomorrow morning and get them to have a look 

land just for the record I had a look at the plugs etc when I got back and they are all bone dry so it wasn't what I thought and that was more water got in from spray etc when driving on the motorway this morning 

 

I just pray it's nothing to do with the vct as I've heard that can be expensive?

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Just backed it out of the garage in anticipation of taking it to a garage and now I've had the engine management light come on yay :( 

 

it it gets better ford don't seem to have space to look at it today and I have work 270 miles away tomorrow at lunchtime 🤔

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So this morning I decided to take it elsewhere for another opinion as I think this guy maybe ripping me off by now and as nowhere else was free to look at it and I need it working tonight I went to kwik fit who ran a diagnostics which said low voltage in cylinder 2 he also point out to me that the wire/plug to the coil pack shouldn't have been cut and the choc block in place shouldn't be there as it carries high voltage and should be insulated ... He told me to take it back there and demand it put right .... Which I have just done so that's where I'm upto ...

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