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Living Room Project


Lenny
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Since the five year focus build is now complete;

Much to the now Wifes approval; I've moved on to doing some home improvements,

I first started with the living room area which ive been working at it since early Feburary this year, 

The initial plan was just to improve the living room space and make it our own,

However the project later expanded to improving the entire house, So hopefully i can make this as interesting as possible, 

I'm not in any hurry to complete it and i don't see any point in paying out any unnecessary interest on a Loan as there's a lot of overtime available to work in my job as part of my contract; 

So progress will be gradual but I'll hopefully keep things interesting by posting every couple of months, 

I've re-edited the entire thread to best reflect the progress in different areas, it was better to edit previous sections making it Hopfully a better read and easier to follow being more categorised; rather than just chucking out an update with random bits done in every room.

I've learned about a few new products so far in the process which may also be of benefit to others to know such items are available.

There's been alot of progress since feburary this year and things are beginning to take shape nicely now; although things are going on pause at various stages to recharge the misalanious expenditure aswell as various family events as I'm doing the project without any loans, 

So hopefully i can make this as interesting as possible, 

Thanks for reading.

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look forward to seeing some pics :smile:

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Here's the start of plan and progress:

We very rarely light a fire and the house is losing a lot of heat going up the chimney,

As result we are removing the fireplace and capping the chimney which when complete; will save on both heat loss and some floor space.

Here's the living room Fireplace before 🎅Santa came down chimney and smashed it in bits 😀

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The Fireplace came off the wall nice and clean, 

The cavity blocks saw inside; support the chimney stack so there definitely staying in place 😅

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I'm going to create a time capsule with the kids and put it horizontal in one of cavity blocks prior to the bricking it up and plastering smooth.

The Time Capsule is basically just a glass jar with a picture of all of us together and a letter written to there future selves in there own words for example; explaining the area they live in and what school is like in there opinion and who there best friend is, then put it in jar and set in cavity block, 

We will be like pirates with buried treasure✖ They might take it out again in 50yrs time when I'm buried some place meself😁

I've fitted a medium sized chimney Baloon & Temporarily boarded up the area with 19mm MDF until the same time as bricking up double doors which leed in to the kitchen area.

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These Double Doors leading to the kitchen area; never get used & the kitchen table is generally situated behind them which blocks there opening, 

We decided the area would be much better having the television mounted on a newly built block wall situated in place of the existing double doors; with a tall cabinet fitted in the corner to contain satellite decoder and DVD player etc. Here's a rough photo edit.20160215_112713_zpsqbxcqarc_edit_1455552331425_zpsfznlutz1.thumb.jpg.77e2d0b2bf4dfb0e5381f866f8296a6a.jpg

I've since removed the double doors and frame,

Stripped the entire room down to concrete floor & plaster walls followed by ordering a medium sized skip to take everything away in one sweep leaving a clean bass to begin planning & adding improvements with no piles of waste left anywhere around the house.

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Obtained two large anti-static plastic liners from work to keep the dust contained within the living room area, 

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☝The above image is a settlement crack which was situated below the window, 

I've chisseled back the surface plaster with large flat screwdriver and hammer then drilled 8mm holes through to the cavity at a sort of 45 degree angle from left and right side of crack; inwards close towards the centre of the crack itself,

Then injected a can of unibond "No More Gaps" expanding foam putting the nozzle tube; in to the drilled holes until it comes out from the cavity through the settlement crack filling it from the outside inwards to the house then left to dry for 24hrs👍

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When dry used a paint scraper to clean back the filled crack making room for plaster👍

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☝Picked up eight of these IKEA large 120x180cm floor mats in Ikea for €14 each there "IBSTED" / low pile Rug from IKEA item code: 603.668.12 

There the cheapest form of floor covering i could find on the market, to use as temperary floor coverage until the final floor goes in and there not too bad for walking on neither.

I've fitted the mats to protect our kids from potential injury and there easily lifted when chasing floor etc. Aswell as easier to dispose of in a Domestic waste wheelie bin when there no longer required throw one in each week; When finished the project comparing to a full area of cheapest carpet which would also have been over €100 more expensive overall not to mention the bulky size which wouldn't fit in the wheelie bin each week and Alternativly require a skip to remove considerably increasing disposal cost aswell.

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☝ The image above is the original double glazed window and it's fully closed,

If you look closely you will see a large gap between the opening seals of the window and the frame at bottom and up left & right sides despite being in the fully closed position 

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When the wondow is fully closed; it still has a 10mm gap at bottom and side due to manufacturer installing the hinges incorrectly st the time of the house being built.

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I've used tubes of silicone many times in the past during the winter periods; to seal the gaps and prevent draft but later had to remove again for opening in the summer,

I've really had enough of it and went for a tripple glazed replacement from a very reliable glazing company, 

The replacement Triple Glazed window by our request; it only has the one partition which results in only one side for opening,

The single opening is sufficient for the room size and there's much more light getting through the larger window area, it also seals as it should and is much better at blocking outside noise👍

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When the glazing company were measuring for replacement sized window; they informed me that there is now an option of having a letter box styled vent built in to the top of the window frame at no extra cost, 

if this vent is fitted in the window; This means you no longer need to have a huge 4" pipe vent in the wall of the room, providing there is NOT a functioning fire within the same room.

So here's the replacement window complete with vent in top of the frame,

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Inside: Vent Closed👇

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Vent Open👇

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Having the vent built in to the window and with the fireplace no longer active in the same room; I happily siliconed up the louvers in the outter 4" air vent,

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Allowing it 24hr to dry; i then filled the area with a can of unibond "No More Gaps" expanding foam allowing to dry for another 24hr then trimmed back with bread knife ready for plaster.

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Moving on from this;

Since the chimney is now redundant I was very interested to find a professional way of capping the top to prevent insects, birds and especially rain from getting in there,

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I done some searching online and found C-Cap to be the most professional option only €35 and guaranteed for 5 years I'll happily have it replaced in 5 years time at that price for good peace of mind that it hasn't deteriorated.

Link: http://www.chimneycowlproducts.ie 

A Local chimney cleaner then cleaned chimney from living room upwards, he then got up on the roof & fitted the cap for total cost of €40.

You sure wouldn't get me up on the roof for €40 and if you did, wouldn't get me off it for €4,000 i have a great fear of heights on ladders but im fine with cherry pickers once I'm stable i even have an Mobile Elevated Working Platform MEWP license but ladder and roof 😮no chance!

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Since we will be plastering the fireplace wall; i wanted to purchase a nice wall mounted electric fire to maintain the comforting feature of a real fire without the mess and excessive heat loss.

Having searched online & viewed the range available; We quite liked the Celsi led curved wall mounted electric fire as shown in the image above, 

Celsi Electriflame Mk2 Wall Hung Electric Fire Model No: EFHOW650RE2 

It's a bit wider than the alternative options available around here locally in Ireland; It would match up better with the width of a mirror above it rather than looking like Hitler's moustache in the bottom centre of the 150cm wide chimney breast.

The electric fires available here are only 80cm wide where the Celsi is 120cm wide; it would look much better on the 150cm wide fireplace wall.

Sadly Celsi electric fire's are not available to purchase anywhere in Ireland; there's currently no stockists of the UK manufacturer not even in the Northern county's 😦

So again I had to do some further research online to source a stockists whom was willing to ship one off the mainland; i finally found a company called fireplacesdirect in Manchester; whom were happy to ship a Celsi Electric Fire off of the mainland over to Nothern Ireland but not to the Republic of Ireland.

I then used my Parcel Motel address to recieve the shipment in to Newtownabbey Co.Antrim where it was then transferred by truck to Nightline in Finglas Co. Dublin for me to collect or have delivered to my home at an additional cost of €17.00 which is quite cheap but I chose to collect from Dublin Depot as I wanted to minimize the risk of it getting broken.

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i wont lye; it really was a butt clenching week awaiting its arrival as I feared that it's large front curved glass panel would have gotten damaged but thankfully all was all 100%👍Received via ParcelMotel

it's now in storage upstairs in our bedroom until the room is painted.

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At this point id like to say; The difficulty in sourcing the electric fire also added to its appeal for me personally; Because the living room is the one place in the house where you come to relax and unwind,

I feel that filling that area with items that took extra efforts to source, create, grow or manufacturer along with family photos documenting history on the walls; will all really help us to create a milestone environment to relax in where a lot of time and effort was spent bringing it all together, 

Hopfully I've explained that in a non weird way ☺

Moving on from the electric fire now; One thing I'm not very good at is painting or vanishing, the wife can paint very well indeed but neither of us can varnish.

And the existing Pine window sill in the living room had saw far better days, I was looking for an Oak replacement and found Agnew Timber.com supply pre varnished solid wood sills at a very competitive price all you gotta do it cut it to the required size yourself.

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The old Pine window sill saw below on left used as template for cutting Oak replacement.

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Very happy with results on this👌

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I required a cabinet which would hold a sky box, DVD player & room for expansion of other items which would easily hide all cables & function as a display cabinet up top.20160131_125116_zpsvmzgcq7m_edit_1455552903457_zps7en6qwj1.thumb.jpg.1faba28e234ff1507b393cb0219fb782.jpg

When in Ikea picking up the floor mats for use as temperary flooring; we spotted the display cabinet pictured above☝

Although i couldn't purchase it on the day since i had the whole family in the car i couldnt take one home; so instead i drove up again last Thursday morning to collect one.

Although the living room is far off the furniture stage; I needed to purchase the cabinet at this point to use as a reference to know exactly where the electrical sockets need to be located on the wall behind it,20160326_062829_zpsdwfekmdh_edit_1464800705052_zpstgi5nfde.thumb.jpg.f0fc449a47f68fe383be69445eea9342.jpg

The beauty of this particular cabinet is; although its displayed and priced as a full unit in ikea it's not sold as a complete cabinet in there warehouse,20160327_073850_zpsvnymqngo.thumb.jpg.390dba9fd27363128e34902dbe4111a7.jpg

The frame, shelves, doors and hinges are all sold individually.

1 x "BESTÅ" / Oak Effect Frame 60x40x192cm IKEA item code: 302.608.69 

3 x "BESTÅ" / Oak Effect Shelf 56x36cm IKEA item code: 502.955.42 

2 x "SINDVIK" / Oak Effect Glass Door 60x64cm IKEA item code: 102.963.22 

2 x "BESTÅ" / Glass Shelf 56x36cm IKEA item code: 602.955.32 

2x "BESTÅ" / 2 Pack Soft Closing/Push Open Hinge IKEA item code: 802.612.58 

When purchased all together they add up to €159 which isint a bad price neither.

The ability to purchase each part individually has worked out ideal for this particular job because;

I'm going to modify the cabinet to look custom built for the room the ability to purchase each part individually makes things alot lot easier when cutting bits rather than potentially purchasing two complete cabinets to obtain extra shelves or one side of the frame👍

One of the BESTÅ wooden shelves is only €8 each 20160327_073700_zpsws9da5qk.thumb.jpg.7fdf71a53db0b9ad460d6c8c16580a7c.jpg

I'm going to use an extra one of those shelves and cut it in half to create a false backing between bottom cabinet and proper horizontal shelf.

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I will then cut out a section of the existing back to allow the electrical plugs from wall recess inside the cabinet.

so when you walk in the door and see side of the cabinet in front of you; the back of the cabinet will be built in flush with the wall, recessing all cables👌

I later sourced an excellent cabinet light kit from uk manufacturer: JCC called the Sky Blade, to fit inside the top cabinet of the living room unit.
 
The Sky Blade kit is a bit expensive at €39.34 but does have the BS British safety standard stamp of approval,
And being LED is more efficient to operate👍
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Now; I should explain further plans at this point;

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The above image is kitchen floor inside of old double door passageway, where i have since lifted a row of tiles; very messy job requiring safety glasses and ear protection as the porcelain tiles splinter and shatter like glass🙈

To the left of this doorway passage; is a plasterboard cavity which contains hot water and radiator pipes feeding from the ground floor to the hotpress (airing cupboard) upstairs as saw in image below 👇20160626_231741_zps04tubotg.thumb.jpg.3e77e55ba460eb127a096e3fd093f892.jpg

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This plasterboard cavity find is fantastic for what we want to achieve next ☺

i first removed the skirting board; then stuck my phone under the plasterboard panel to take a few pictures of the inside as I wanted to see if it would be possible to run some twin coaxial "shotgun cable" and Cat7 RJ45 cables from the kitchen floor; up through this plasterboard cavity to the inside the hot press (Airing Cupboard) and from there up in to the attic space, 

where I can put Cat7 RJ45 and coaxial connections in to the corner of each bedroom & the Sattelite cable from the living room; out from the attic through the Fascia vent from the attic at rear of the house up on to the sattelite dish at side of chimney on roof completely out of sight.

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This means there's no exposed cables on exterior front of the house and i will no longer need to use plugin RJ45 network transmitters  (pictured above) to stream media from the internet router to TV box's in other rooms of the house; although these NetGear Powerline 1200 units work flawlessly & I highly  recommend them; it's always more efficient running direct cables if possible and Cat7 is capable of 7GB per second data transfer rates, definitely future proof for at least the next decade.

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So here's the pictures from phone of what's inside the cavity👀

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There's lagged copper central heating and water feed pipes in the floor joined to Qualplex plastic piping using compression fittings and clipped to wall feeding up to the hot press (Airing Cupboard) upstairs.

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There's plenty of room in there for some coaxial satellite and network cables 👍

I then went upstairs to hotpress (airing cupboard), drilled a small 6mm test hole first in the location of floor which i theorized was corresponding with the kitchen cavity below,

I then phished down a single coaxial cable to test things out, if sucessful; I would then make the hole bigger.

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First hole wasn't a corresponding success 😕 although from looking through cavity I was sure it would be 100% straight up through floor.

I had put in ten metres of cable through the hole but no sign of it coming down the cavity atall😦

So I drilled four holes in the top of plasterboard cavity in kitchen then cutting out a square to allow some visual on above area aswell as space to reach my hand inside.

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It seems the back of the hotpress (airing cupboard) where I was initially drilling down is actually further back in around the ceiling area closer to the double doors👉

This works out even better because the sucessfull hole will be well away around 17" away from all hot pipes being situated just inside of the door frame (airing cupboard) hotpress door👍

I drilled a new hole just inside the door frame and tried phishing down through this hole and success it's through 😂 it really was a euphoric moment like watching child birth seeing the head of the cable finally peep through after all the pushing 😭

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This coaxial cable is not permanent atall its more of a cable mule; I will tape the cat7 RJ45 cables and twin coaxial "Shotgun cables" on to this single cable at staggerd points to reduce bulk then pull it back up carrying the desired cables through along with it back up to the hotpress.👌

This fishing process inside the existing walls was the hardest part of the entire home improvement plan as there was a significant level of uncertainty that it would be possible to hide all of these cables inside the existing structure.

We now know it's going to be possible to run network cables, satellite and aerial from the living room to attic where it can be distributed around the entire house without being visible anywhere.

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Above image: inside the ceiling of the hot press (airing cupboard) white coaxial cable travelling from the living room up in to the attic space for distribution through out the house.

Getting back to the cabinet now;

I meassured up the locations for sockets on the livingroom wall aswell as marking locations for pipe entry from attic and exit to TV20160326_062829_zpsdwfekmdh.thumb.jpg.7e7c8d0540caa35642613d07552f782a.jpg

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The above pipe is 2" outter ribbed water pipe designed for pond or garden feature use, I purchased a length of 7 metres from my local garden centre but all going extremely well fingers crossed it wont ever see water where it's going ☺

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Its ribbed on outside meaning it grips well when bonded and smooth inside means cables wont get stuck when phishing them through aswell as no sharp bends in pipework makes it alot easier for phishing👍

On with the Kango now my dad (Retired college Lecturer Electrician & Plumber) chased out the floor to house 5 metres of the massive 2" internal bore hose aswell as relocating power supply for the six double sockets👍

took four hours to chase 6ft length of 3 x 3 inches trench with a rented Bosch Kango😥 

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We then relocated a switch for an outside socket on to the left side of the fireplace wall where a double switch will be fitted;

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1 x switch for outside socket 🏡

1x switch for the electric fire🔥

By using a blank Clipsal triple port plate, and an LED indicator from a clipsal cooker switch it's possible to create a double switch with led indicator,

I'll explain more about Clipsal branded electrical sockets and switches later in the thread; 

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The left switch is for the outside socket; So when the outside socket is then live, The green led indicator illuminates to remind it's still powered on, because I only power the outside socket when using it myself for safety & security purposes I don't leave it on 24/7.

The other switch on the right is for the Celsi electric fire, all on a single plate at the side of the unused chimney breast 

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I later changed to a green LED lens and gloss black "CLIPSAL" housing manufactured by Schneider electric and purchased from electricalwholesaler.ie 

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Also had two holes drilled through from the left side of the chimney breast wall in to main area of the fire to allow chimney ventilation when bricked up preventing condensation inside.

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I then purchased one of these 4" laser cut stainless steel circular grills from eBay👇

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Marked it up on the wall and chiseled out the plaster using a flat heat screwdriver and hammer;

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 Bringing the surface down to the block work; 

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.Then applied some Polyfiller 

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I then taped two straws to the vent grill using masking tape in order to align the vent correctly flush with the surrounding plaster because I want it to be smooth inline with the wall rather than screwed on to the exterior.

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Left for 24hr to dry before sanding smooth 

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Ready for paint

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I'm very happy with the results compared to fitting a "Hit & miss" vent to the exterior surface which was the initial plan (Picture Below) 

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Moving on now; Having now confirmed the routing of cables to the attic via the kitchen is possible; I happily removed the satellite cables from the exterior front face of the house, and as suspected gotta love sky installers that fit 8mm cable so please tell me why.. why do they have to drill a 12mm gaping hole in the wall 😀 I can fit my index finger in it. That's the outside socket in the grey box.

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Purchased a brown block buster cable cover on eBay and filled the hole with unibond expanding foam,

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going to seal it with some Gripfill and cover when the cover arrives sometime next week.👍

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Picked up some "Schneider electric" Clipsal S-Class sockets and switches as saw above; to replace all of the existing units around the home aswell as some new additions😊

These switches can be popped out and a coaxial socket popped in or a HDMI, RJ11, RJ45, Dimmer switch fitted as you will see later in the thread; There very versatile polycarbonate construction and available in all different colours black, red, pink, blue green etc. There design has been on the market since the mid 90's 

I favour this brand of electrical switches & sockets as there a gloss sort of polycarbonate finish which is alsi easy to wipe clean, The screws are hidden from view and the switches feel like a beach pebble on your hand, they don't make a loud click when switched on/off neither.

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They also supply a USB vesion with optional ledge to hold your phone when it's charging 👍

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I chose some Nickel black coloured "screwless finish" USB double sockets and dimmer for the living room where visible, These units were purchased from the local B&Q store and are not Schneider branded units where the rest of the units featured were from Schneider electric.

These Nickel black coloured fixings Will match in nicely when complete also changed fireplace triple switch to black clipsal which is saw earlier in the post.20160624_145255_zpsxsiuv72r_edit_1466777877953_zpsiaddggip.thumb.jpg.afaba5131d32f83de3fa368c63b58dd7.jpg

This is external grade Cat5e telephone cable which is exactly the same stuff currently used to run in to the house from the usual BT type network providers, 

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My dad has left me this 30 metre coil of the stuff; which I've to fish from the attic down through the hotpress floor to the kitchen floor inside the wall and along the floor in to the corner of the living room five minute job he says 😂 more like five hours at least.

At present the only telephone socket in the house is near the front door which leaves the router on display to everyone whom enters the home or peers in the door,

By routing this cable back to the main box through the cavity i can relocate the internet router in to the livingroom cabinet and join it up to the CAT7 cables etc.

This will also hide the router from view at the front door as when door to door sales people call they spot the router and say "ow I see your signed up with X provider, were X amount cheaper" 

Its much easier now the router won't be visible from the front door only a telephone socket will be there.

I'll get to routing this on Monday as I'm going Easter egg hunting tomorrow with the kids, 

Happy Easter all and don't forget the clocks go back 1 hour tonight at midnight so we can do it all again😉

Thanks for reading next update will be middle to end of April.

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you need a disk cutter for  chasing out lot faster:smile:

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Excited to be reading this dude!  Keep up the good work

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You certainly don't do half a job! Keep it coming!

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On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 7:37 PM, dezwez said:

you need a disk cutter for  chasing out lot faster:smile:

Would have been alot easier but glad didn't in the end as we met a few pipes along the way such as the water mains in to house 😀 really glad didn't slice that one especially now that it's being metred🚣 

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 7:52 PM, Preecematt said:

Excited to be reading this dude!  Keep up the good work

☺Thanks im glad your finding it of interest.

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 8:58 PM, Ryan_Tango said:

You certainly don't do half a job! Keep it coming!

😅 I appreciate the support guys thanks.

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 0:51 AM, theredfox said:

excellent work lenny:rockon:

Thanks very much for all support guys I honestly didn't think people would be that much interested but when I think about it; if someone else was doing some renovations id be interested to have a look for some alternative ideas aswell.👍

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are you going to put a air vent in your chimney breast as it will get damp in there :smile:

son in law a builder

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On 3/25/2016 at 7:33 PM, Lenny said:

This is external grade telephone cable same stuff used to run in to the house, 

My dad has left me this coil which I've to phish from the attic down to the corner of the living room as the internet router will be located in the cabinet and joined up to the Cat7 cables etc.

I'll get to this on Monday as I'm going Easter egg hunting tomorrow with the kids, 

Happy Easter all and don't forget the clocks go back 1 hour tonight at midnight so we can do it all again 😉

Thanks for reading next update will be middle to end of May when we will be phising cables, relocating radiator pipes to exit from wall instead of the floor aswell as mounting graphite radiator and having doors blocked up with wall plates and 60 blocks.

clocks go forward mate

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That was actually a rather good read...good luck with the he rest of it and look forward to the next progress update. 

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On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 1:29 PM, dezwez said:

clocks go forward mate

😯Thanks for that,😅

I rarely look at the clock unless it's a work day or I have an appointment somewhere 😛

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Really good read + progress so far.  only downside?  WHY THE LONG WAIT!!!!!!!!

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On 3/27/2016 at 1:25 PM, dezwez said:

are you going to put a air vent in your chimney breast as it will get damp in there :smile:

son in law a builder

Cheers mate; I've edit the post above to reflect that part.

Moving onwards now; The Telephone line Cable is now installed from the original socket in the hall up to attic and down in to living room 👍Great Success!

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I then used the old waste sky sattelite cable which has been removed from front of the house aswell as an empty lip balm lid to create a smooth cap over the top of the cable making it easier to push through the green pipe up to the attic using it as a fishing guide to take the other cables through the pipe👌
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I have no intention of keeping these old sky cables which were removed from front of the house in the pipe.
ive put this old coaxial in there because the CAT7 cables need to go through; yet they are not rigid enough to be pushed inside the pipe by themselves,
As result I will tape there ends on to the back of this coaxial cable at staggerd points to reduce bulk then pull this coaxial through with the CAT7 attached 👍
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On 3/28/2016 at 1:08 AM, Preecematt said:

Really good read + progress so far.  only downside?  WHY THE LONG WAIT!!!!!!!!

😅Thanks mate, 

The above progress is from early Feburary to now,

It's going to be a few weeks before there's further progress to update as i've also got the usual house bills, mortgage, wife and three kids whom really like to chill in my surroundings,

Were doing the entire project without any loans as were happily treating the kitchen space as a studio apartment for the moment until the wall and fire are done; so its going to take few weeks of working overtime to recharge the pot to go at it again with another few things then back to recharge again unless ofcourse i win the Lotto in which case ill be scrapping the project completely 😀

I'm happy to be working at it in this way because anything that is done has been paid for and keeps me motivated in work to achieve more goals at home, aswell as plenty of time to research ideas and change things along the way.

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Loving the build Lenny. Keep up the good work. Always plan ahead what you want to do and list it. Last thing you want is to have to rip out stuff because you forgot to install something....I've been there myself!

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Great project Lenny and a fascinating read/view too:smile::smile:

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On 3/28/2016 at 12:33 PM, salsheikh said:

Loving the build Lenny. Keep up the good work. Always plan ahead what you want to do and list it. Last thing you want is to have to rip out stuff because you forgot to install something....I've been there myself!

Thanks Sal, 
good advice there mate cheers, 
I've taken the time yesterday to list out the whole process in order of what's to be done next so I don't really have to evaluate it all the time just make the money and follow the process, 
Also measured up for all TV cables, going to future proof things by fitting a few more cables than I currently need.
I like the pace of progress to be a little drawn out like this as it gives time to think about things in detail.
 
On 3/31/2016 at 11:47 PM, GMX said:

Great project Lenny and a fascinating read/view too:smile::smile:

Thanks mate, I'll have a small update around 17th-20th 

 
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  • 2 weeks later...
Moving on from last update in March;
 
I purchased three; 50 metre long IBRA branded flat Cat7 cables in white with pre-terminated gold RJ45 male - male connections; one cable for each room upstairs to steam media without Wifi.
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I first tested each of the three cables to ensure they were operating as they should prior to goinv through all the effort of installing👍
 
I then coverd each plug with some plastic wrap followed by staggering the heads taping them together as one streamline cable for easier fishing.
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I then brought the three coils of CAT7 upstairs where they were i put one coil on the stairs, second in the bathroom and third in hallway where they each could be unravelled away from each other to remove any twist when fishing down through hotpress floor in to kitchen cavity.
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Here they are now in kitchen cavity having just been taped on to the black coaxil bringing them down to kitchen floor.
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Three Flat CAT7 now installed to living room with sufficient length to connect with Router in cabinet at later date.
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I then removed the shelves from hotpress (Airing cupboard) and run the three CAT7 up in to the attic.
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I went to local DIY Store at this point and purchased a 3 Metre length of one inch wide sticky back PVC conduit 
Only €4.75 per length👍
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Then marked out the two shelve support strips as they had to be cut back in order for the conduit to fit snug inside.
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I removed the wooden strip then using a claw hammer and cut markings aswell as installing conduit.
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The conduit purchased was the largest diameter which they currently had in stock; it's capable of housing the three flat CAT7 and a CAT5E phone cable but its full capacity at that
I still had four coaxial 100LSF cables to go in there which are thickest coaxial available on the market today, so I ended up purchasing another length of sticky back conduit running them side by side.
 
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When refitting the shelf support strips I discovered; the strips only meet wooden pertition at back of the plasterboard; on the very ends of there length.
Meaning there's nothing at rear of plaster to hammer the strips in to when I cut them shorter; 
As result I've used some "No More Nails" to secure in place which is working very well indeed👍
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Used original nails to support strips in place and left for 24hr to set dry,
 
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Removed a small section from corner of shelves to make room for conduit then refitted 👍
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The Coaxial cable ive fitted is "100LSF" Sky generally use 80LSF this is essentially much the same cable but 100LSF is suited better for long distance runs and better shielded agenst wireless signal interference such as 4G
Its also "Shotgun cable" meaning it's two identical cables side by side. 
Two lengths of this double cable making a total of four coaxial feeds are going from the living room to attic; where one double feed will exit through a vent in fascia on to the roof outside and connect to satellite dish at side of chimney.
 
The other length will be split in the attic to act as two single coaxial feeds, 
One goes to the 4ch amp splitter to recieve signal from the terrestrial aerial on the roof and the other feed will bring the sky multiroom output from the decoder in living room up to a 4ch amp splitter in the attic which sends it to all rooms of the house controllable via the smart eye.
 
EDIT: I later added a fifth cable to create a multiroom loop which feeds through a HDMI to RF modulator, I'm putting this edit here in case others are following my install; the ideal setup is five coaxial feeds 
2 for sattelite 
1 for aerial feed to TV 
1 for multiroom loop down to TV 
1 for multiroom loop up return to attic 
 
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I purchased 125M of Webro 100LSF Shotgun cable which thankfully came on a coil for easier unravelling.
 
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I balanced the coil on two kitchen chairs using sweeping brush handle😉
Unrolling like this prevents the cable from coiling when phishing.
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Unrolled a length around 30M and cut allowing two lengths to be fished at the same time.
 
Up in the hotpress floor now; 
I drilled a second hole widening the original to make room for the phat cables.
The black cable saw here is the pilot cable for easier phishing of bulk cables through pipe.
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I then taped both coaxil shotgun cables to the fishing cable again staggered to make it as streamlined as possible reducing risk of catching when phishing.
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I had the wife standing on ladder in kitchen gently pulling the single cable down through the cavity in to the kitchen while I kept both cables straight in hotpress floor.
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When sufficient length had entered the kitchen we routed it through the green pipe.
 
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That's all cables now installed within the green pipe feeding from living room to attic.
We have; 
Twin satellite feed down from satellite 
Single Terrestrial feed down from Aerial 
Coaxial feed down from attic (Loop feed)
Return Coaxial feed to attic (Loop feed)
3 x CAT7 RJ45 feeds to attic 
CAT5e Telephone landline input feed from attic.
 
I've put a small skim of expanding foam in top of pipe in living room to prevent anything from falling in or passing through the channel 😀
This can be easily broken through at later date if another cable is required.
 
Now; 
When chasing out the floor to install this 2" green conduit pipe; we came across some copper heating pipes feeding to the living room as saw in image below;
 
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Luckily didn't take the advice of using a cutting disc or we would have cut through all of them 😅 
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Were now at the stage in the process where; it's time to concrete over the green pipe refinishing the floor surface, 
However; in the event those pipes ever began to leak; we would need to chase out the concrete in this corner again to repair, 
So I decided to surround the heating pipes with a bit of expanding foam rather than all concrete, 
This will make a repair easier if ever required as the foam is easily cut away.
 
Having put the foam in under the heating pipes it still really swells up
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I allowed it 5 hours to dry prior to trimming it back using a kitchen bread knife allowing around 1" depth for skim of cement.
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Went to local DIY store again 
They have bags of ready mix concrete just add water👍
Great product was €14.00 per 25kg bag or Buy two for €22.00 so I bought two 
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I plan to mix the concrete in next month as the radiator pipes need relocating recessing in to the wall instead of coming directly up from the ground, 
Looks better and easier to hoover. 

I have the replacement livingroom radiator on order in anthracite colour to better tie in with dark tv on wall and fire on opposite wall.

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Here's the old radiator about to be removed.

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First closed both valves bearing in mind; one valve is only half open to regulate flow of heat caps are different

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With both valves closed tight; basin in place opened connection between radiator and valve

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Opened bleed valve to allow air in to chase water out slightly quicker💧

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When flow stopped, 
Lifted off radiator and disposed of in local scrap yard 👍

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Removed the brackets ready now to drain complete system for pipe relocation.

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When refilling the heating system I will also be adding a bottle of EndoTherm which helps to reduce corrosion within system aswell as assisting with heat output independently proven to save up to 15% on Heating per Annum. 

Link: http://smartgreenshop.co.uk/promoted-products/endotherm-central-heating-additive-500ml.html 

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Moving forward now and back to the cables in the livingroom; 

I purchased 20M length of white Webro HD100 for connection between splitter in attic and each room upstairs, basically a single version of the shotgun coaxial cable with white being more sutable for interior use aswell as extra shielding against interference from wireless signals from 4G WiFi etc.

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At present the new cat7 cables feeding to rooms upstairs are preterminated directly in to rooms, but if ever stretched then the entire 50M cable is technically useless and quite an expensive loss. 

To prevent risk I've purchased three RJ45 socket extenders which accept Pre-Teterminated RJ45 plug and provide an RJ45 socket;

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Meaning the existing long cables will remain untouched inside sockets where an additional cable will be connected inside the attic space.

Moving on from this then;
I meassured up area between cabinet in living room and location for tv on wall figured 4 Metre cables would be sufficient, 
Logged on to eBay with a list😥
 
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Picked up everything alot cheaper than local electronics store aswell as latest HDMI vesion 2.0 built in Ethernet connection. 
Optical cable to bridge audio from TV to soundbar when installed.
also purchased a 4 Metre power cable although; I don't have the TV or sound bar purchased yet and don't know if they will take a "C13" or "figure 8" power connection I have a solution 👌
Running a single "C13" cable plugged in at rear of cabinet. 
 
Then fitting a 12" long splitter at rear of TV "C14" socket 
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If the power supply turns out to be "figure8"; then I have adaptors for the "C13" to convert to figure 8 😀
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very impressed with these myself 👍
 
More progress in May, 
Next step is to have wall & fireplace built up then plastered.
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Great update again Lenny.  Bet it takes twice as long to do the job now that your doing this thread lol

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On 4/17/2016 at 1:00 PM, Preecematt said:

Great update again Lenny.  Bet it takes twice as long to do the job now that your doing this thread lol

Thanks Matt,

True, missus is slagging me saying "im going to take off radiator, ow no wait I'll take a picture" 😁

says she's so glad I didn't give birth or there would be pictures of me snatch all over the forum 😂

Gotta put project on hold for next few weeks now, had a flat tyre on rear passenger side for a week and didn't know it 😀 35mm reinforced sidewall checked pressure had 4Psi 😦

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Car needs timing belt change aswell as new spare 16" tyre and standard service here's what Ford said; 

Timing kit €570

Oil pump washer leak €195

front passenger lower arm Bush €150

Rear trailing arm bushes rear lower stabilizer link bar bushes slightly deteriorated €560 

Standard service €190 

That's €1665 excluding tyres which were just fitted four @ €125 per corner 

so hopefully have another update in June when focus has been looked after.

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Those tiles you brought.. Same as our bathroom yayyyy bathroom tiles friends lol.  You never said you were speccing the Focus up to F1 standards lol, if it's any consolation I had a slow puncture on my OSR tyre.. 4 nails lol

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On 17/04/2016 at 3:12 PM, Lenny said:

Thanks Matt,

True, missus is slagging me saying "im going to take off radiator, ow no wait I'll take a picture" 😁

says she's so glad I didn't give birth or there would be pictures of me snatch all over the forum 😂

Gotta put project on hold for next few weeks now, had a flat tyre on rear passenger side for a week and didn't know it 😀 35mm reinforced sidewall checked pressure had 4Psi 😦

20160412_180029_zpsgqwbbpb6.jpg

Car needs timing belt change aswell as new spare 16" tyre and standard service here's what Ford said; 

Timing kit €570

Oil pump washer leak €195

front passenger lower arm Bush €150

Rear trailing arm bushes rear lower stabilizer link bar bushes slightly deteriorated €560 

Standard Service €190 

That's €1665 excluding tyres which were just fitted four @ €125 per corner 

so hopefully have another update in June when focus has been looked after.

Christ, that tyre is shot!  That's the problem with these reinforced tyres as at low speeds you wouldn't realise they were flat, so could potentially end up doing that amount of damage and then going onto a motorway and having a blow out.  At least with older tyres it was obvious if it was flat and you could rectify it.

Unless it was that bald before the puncture?

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On 17/04/2016 at 5:48 PM, Preecematt said:

Those tiles you brought.. Same as our bathroom yayyyy bathroom tiles friends lol.  You never said you were speccing the Focus up to F1 standards lol, if it's any consolation I had a slow puncture on my OSR tyre.. 4 nails lol

You had four nails and only had a slow puncture?  That's what I call good luck! :laugh:

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21 hours ago, jmurray01 said:

Christ, that tyre is shot!  That's the problem with these reinforced tyres as at low speeds you wouldn't realise they were flat, so could potentially end up doing that amount of damage and then going onto a motorway and having a blow out.  At least with older tyres it was obvious if it was flat and you could rectify it.

Unless it was that bald before the puncture?

Had checked tyre pressure 7 days before finding the puncture and the thread depth was fine well just legal but nothing like it was on the same day following week where I discovered the puncture,

Ture was not visibly flat compared to the others atall it still had same 35mm clearance.

rolling four new Avon ZV7 now replacing the ZV5 they have more grip less road noise and 40mm profile instead of 35mm 

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I'm not as happy with the ZV5 as the ZZ3. They've worn much quicker.

I need to replace 2 of mine soon...smidge over 2mm on the ZV5's and still a good 3.5-4 on the older ZZ3

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